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View Full Version : Identify and treat these weeds...


pghsebring
10-13-2009, 08:46 PM
This is some sort of flower, a single stem grows about 9" tall, but i've never seen what the flower looks like...first weed...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2081.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2094.jpg

Another flower...second ones...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2103.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2107.jpg

And more weeds...third type...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2101.jpg

More...fourth...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2102.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2079.jpg

Way down in there, kindof neon yellow/green...fifth weed...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2090.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2091.jpg

Finally, sixth weed...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2088.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2089.jpg

So, is there any one product i could apply to take care of all of these, or is there a regimen that you'd recommend to take care of all these different types of weeds...

ICT Bill
10-13-2009, 09:10 PM
So, is there any one product i could apply to take care of all of these, or is there a regimen that you'd recommend to take care of all these different types of weeds...

Yes there is, it is called your right or left hand, pick one or both
In the time it took you to snap those pictures the weeds would be gone

pghsebring
10-13-2009, 09:23 PM
I could weed 8000 sqft in the time it took to snap 10 pics? Really? You must be fast.

I was looking more along the lines of spraying the lawn, or something along those lines - there are probably thousands of individual weeds in different areas...i only took a few pics of the main ones, and only one of each...

So is there a herbicide that will kill all those different types of weeds, or two herbicides, or a herbicide and a preemrgent next spring, etc...

Kylec3
10-13-2009, 09:26 PM
spray the whole lawn and start over

milike
10-13-2009, 09:37 PM
spray the whole lawn and start over

ouch...a bit much, but IT WOULD WORK :weightlifter:



.

pghsebring
10-13-2009, 10:01 PM
Its october 13th...i live in pittsburgh pa. Assuming i spray the lawn tomorrow, how long before i can reseed? And would reseeding it actually work this late in the year - especially after i've waited for everything to die?

BTW - what type of grass is in the background of this pic?

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2103.jpg

RigglePLC
10-13-2009, 10:22 PM
Too tall. I think you need to mow more often. Google these weeds to get good pictures. The weeds, I think: 1 Orange hawkweed. 2. Pensylvania smartweed. 3. Tall fescue. 4. Chickweed. 5. Clover. 6. Don't know. 7. Possibly tall fescue again.

A good Threeway or Ortho Weed B Gone Max would be a good choice for these weeds. Except that for tall fescue--you must dig it out.

Rather late to spray and seed. But if you must--spray weeds and wait 10 days--4 days if you are in a hurry. Try to seed before frost--seed comes up very slow when temps don't get above 50 during the day. Use top quality seed. Add starter fertilizer. Water every day for 30 days. Good luck.

pghsebring
10-13-2009, 10:47 PM
Thank you for your help - i appreciate it a lot.

It definitely doesn't get cut enough, and i know that's what contributed to this mess. It is going to get cut more frequently from now on. In fact, i took those pics right before i cut it all. Which doesn't help now that i have to pull the tall fescue out...

If i don't go with the "kill it all and start over" plan, is there another option? Can i overseed and then spray with one of those sprays mentioned above once the new grass has grown in a little? Or do i just spray one of those now, then overseed in the spring?

Riggle, if this was your lawn, what would you do?

Monroe74
10-13-2009, 10:53 PM
try weed id .com to answer your questions about weeds that way you won't get any smart answers once you identify them go to lesco or john deere landscapes they can point you in the right direction as to what to use. Just to let you know you need a license and a bu number and ins. to treat any lawn other than your own even if you do it for free, or they buy the materials and you put it on, or even barter for services.

pghsebring
10-14-2009, 11:00 AM
Here's part of the lawn as it currently is:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2113.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2114.jpg

It's been cut down to 1" (i went over it twice, once on a higher setting, once at the second lowest), and i bagged the clippings (except for a few that the mower wouldn't get).

Does it look unsaveable? There is a lot of grass in there...there's just several areas of weeds along with weeds interspersed.

So, do i try to fix this by A) overseeding this fall and apply preemergent/selective weed killer in spring, B) selective weed killer now, overseed in spring, or C) kill it all and restart today. My goal is to have a lawn that is conducive to selling in the spring some time, april or so...

PS. Whats the cheapest way to kill the whole lawn if that's the way to go?

milike
10-14-2009, 11:15 AM
Here's part of the lawn as it currently is:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2113.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c340/farfromltd/DSC_2114.jpg



PS. Whats the cheapest way to kill the whole lawn if that's the way to go?


Round up





.

RAlmaroad
10-14-2009, 11:34 AM
NO, NO, NO--Killing off that thick grass is just stupid!!! It's going to go dormant soon. You'll be able to use some 3-Way from Lesco/JDLandscaping in a two gallon sprayer on the not killed by frost stuff. THEN in FEBRUARY/March use a GOOD Pre-em. Again in about two months and even a possible 3rd application.
Getting grass established is not as easy as you're lead to believe. Killing off good sod for the sake of a few broadleafs is just a good choice of bad ideas. After the lawn get growing , blanket the whole lawn with the three-way. You might even be able to use a hose end applicator. There's a good one called "Weed Free Zone" by Fert-I-lome that is great even when temps are down to about 40 or so. Be care as not to shoot holes in sod with that small sprayer. Two light applications a week or so apart would be better than a burnt lawn by a heavy application. Looks like that lawn has been neglected.
Write me if you'd like.

pghsebring
10-14-2009, 01:33 PM
NO, NO, NO--Killing off that thick grass is just stupid!!! It's going to go dormant soon. You'll be able to use some 3-Way from Lesco/JDLandscaping in a two gallon sprayer on the not killed by frost stuff. THEN in FEBRUARY/March use a GOOD Pre-em. Again in about two months and even a possible 3rd application.
Getting grass established is not as easy as you're lead to believe. Killing off good sod for the sake of a few broadleafs is just a good choice of bad ideas. After the lawn get growing , blanket the whole lawn with the three-way. You might even be able to use a hose end applicator. There's a good one called "Weed Free Zone" by Fert-I-lome that is great even when temps are down to about 40 or so. Be care as not to shoot holes in sod with that small sprayer. Two light applications a week or so apart would be better than a burnt lawn by a heavy application. Looks like that lawn has been neglected.
Write me if you'd like.

So which of those should i go with this week (3way, weed free zone), or should i just wait til next spring to get started on this? I'd prefer to use a hose end sprayer if thats possible...

Thanks for your advice.

pghsebring
10-14-2009, 01:41 PM
Oh - and should i fertilize or overseed at some point? When would be the best time to do either/both of these?

Thanks again.

RAlmaroad
10-14-2009, 03:31 PM
This isn't a "one shot" program...Use your 3-way now...It's getting cooler and there will still be some warm days.....You may get some of them/may not. Then..in March or about a month before greenup for the yankees; use a good pre-emergent like Anderson's with barricade depending on a reputable soil test...You're going to have to stay with that pre-em as IT DOES NOT LAST MUCH LONGER THAN 90 days. With your weed problem hit it again in about 2 1/2 months. I prefer that you use Gallery but you don't have equipment to apply it. Then after about after green-up use your "Weed Free Zone" with a Gilmore hose end applicator. I suggest "Weed Free Zone" because there are directions for applying it with the Gilmore Hose End sprayer and the 3-Way must be put down accurately with proper equipment when applying a blanket coverage. You can spot with it i(3-Way)n the winter when the grass is dormant but not cold (there are ester formulas for cold but that's another different ballgame and probably should not be done by homeowners). My best advise is to apply a quality fertilize with pre-em then pre-am alone between fertilizations. Soon those weeds will be choked out by the healthy turf.
Or....hire a good pro and don't grip about his cost...they're worth every penny in peace of mind.

CHARLES CUE
10-14-2009, 08:13 PM
3 way would take care of the broad leaf weeds but the last two are what we call broomsage only grows where the PH is very low do a soil test add lime
Charles Cue

pghsebring
10-14-2009, 10:02 PM
Alright, so i get the three way and spray it on the next warmish day, then i spread lime...i have a ton of hydrated lime around here, how much do i add to bring the ph up +1 if needed? I read about 80-85lbs/1000 sqft of clay soil...sound right?

Thanks for all the advice.

ted putnam
10-14-2009, 11:00 PM
[QUOTE=ICT Bill;3229115]Yes there is, it is called your right or left hand, pick one or both


Sure, if it's his personal lawn. Turn on the boombox grab a couple cold brews and the "weedpopper". However, if he's trying to make a living that advice will land him in the line for "Welfare Cheese". :cry:

greendoctor
10-15-2009, 02:31 AM
With 85 lbs of hydrated lime, I would stop worrying about weeds and start worrying about whether the grass will still be there. Your cumulative rate of lime might be 85 lb, but that should be applied in 10 lb increments to avoid damage to the grass.

RAlmaroad
10-15-2009, 07:30 AM
Alright, so i get the three way and spray it on the next warmish day, then i spread lime...i have a ton of hydrated lime around here, how much do i add to bring the ph up +1 if needed? I read about 80-85lbs/1000 sqft of clay soil...sound right?

Thanks for all the advice.

Uh...You may want to re-read your source...You do realize that this is close to 3500 lbs/acre. As Greendoctor said--forget the weeds; worry about any grass living after that.

pghsebring
10-15-2009, 09:18 AM
That's why i checked here first...using hydrated lime, how many pounds per 1000 sqft would you recommend to increase the ph +1? That was the only source i could find...i'd like to know what works for other people. I'm using hydrated lime because i happen to have a lot here.

RAlmaroad
10-15-2009, 10:07 AM
Most all soil tests will include the amount. Don't guess!!! It will only take a couple of weeks from your County Extension Agency. This is your most reliable place for your testing. And why are you wanting to add lime without a soil test? Most grasses do better around 6.5.

Kiril
10-15-2009, 10:43 AM
pH levels between 5.5 and 8.0 are not worth adjusting in landscapes IMO.

pghsebring
10-17-2009, 12:43 AM
Alright, i need to raise my ph by .5 - so how many lbs per 1000 sq ft or per acre of hydrated lime should i add? How many lbs per application, how many applications...i've read in a few places i could add up to 40 or 50 lbs per application, but people here keep saying 10 lbs max...which is it?

cturf
11-13-2009, 11:20 AM
Don't kill your yard. these guys are brutal. By the time you buy what you need you can hire someone. Do me and all the pros get some free quotes. You can always say no

naughty62
11-17-2009, 07:57 AM
Soil test are always good .let syou know what your dealing with.The property is definately a little neglected.issues that could addresss now or early spring.aeration -compaction ,organic material %,wet area with excess shade and poor drainage -chain saw and pruners.tough weed to control : knotweed along curbs and side walk ,it germinates earlier than most weed and can spreed into yard ;buckshorn plaintain in background of photo has a very waxy coating and herbicide does not like to stick and is on top10herbicide resistance list .annual blue grass . If that was one of our lawn I would aerate the crap out of it ,mulch up leaves and clipping.mid spring spray with 3way and STICKER One that contain 2%to 3% dicamba .Then pre M at approriate time and rate .back pack or hand can of round it adrress invasive grass in preperation for fall overseed with appropiateseed : mixes for differant conditions .:dizzy::confused: