JD CT322 - Opinions?

[Asystole]

Howdy All,

I'm new to the forum and am purchasing a JD CT322 skid steer which should arrive this week. I would like to ask you for your comments, tips, and "Watch-out-for" experiences with the CT 322.

The unit has 800 hours on it and operates well. It is missing the front door and left side glass and the tracks are worn about smooth (Operated on asphalt too much). I'll need to buy new tracks and will need to replace the door and window, so I'd appreciate any tips as to where I might be able to locate those items also.

Thanks for your time,

Seán

[wanabe]

I ran a CT 322 to about 600 hours and the only issue was the steel hyd lines(boom arm cylinder area) were rubbing. But some old hose and zip strips took care of that. Very well built machines.

[Skidsteerman]

Get a couple in line fuel filters for it. There are two fuel filters on the unit, one in line primary located on top of the fuel tank area (problem child) and the water separator filter located on the left side of the radiator. The in line filter is doing it's job filtering crap out of the fuel but it clogs up and causes loss of performance. Good to have a spare on hand depending on the quality of fuel you get in your area.

Replacement Tracks - Bridgestone is the OEM brand on Deere. While it is probably the best overall track on the market, it is pricey. We have had very good luck with the Camoplast aftermarket track and it is less costly, plus it has a 12 month MFG defect warranty.

Make sure you get a owners manual with your tractor (usually located behind the seat in a pouch) if not, order one from Deere dealership. Good info on keeping your unit maintained and operating it.

Check the condition of the aluminum tracks inside the cab that the door rollers travel in. Check for areas that maybe grooved from door rattling in them.

Those are low hours and if it was maintained and not abused, you should have great service from it here on in.

[wanabe]

Get a couple in line fuel filters for it. There are two fuel filters on the unit, one in line primary located on top of the fuel tank area (problem child) and the water separator filter located on the left side of the radiator. The in line filter is doing it's job filtering crap out of the fuel but it clogs up and causes loss of performance. Good to have a spare on hand depending on the quality of fuel you get in your area.

Replacement Tracks - Bridgestone is the OEM brand on Deere. While it is probably the best overall track on the market, it is pricey. We have had very good luck with the Camoplast aftermarket track and it is less costly, plus it has a 12 month MFG defect warranty.

Make sure you get a owners manual with your tractor (usually located behind the seat in a pouch) if not, order one from Deere dealership. Good info on keeping your unit maintained and operating it.

Check the condition of the aluminum tracks inside the cab that the door rollers travel in. Check for areas that maybe grooved from door rattling in them.

Those are low hours and if it was maintained and not abused, you should have great service from it here on in.


I forgot about the fuel filter issue. Had problems with that as well.

[P.Services]

im also having problems with the fuel filter. my tank has some crap in the bottom of it and every time it gets low it sucks up some crap and it gets stuck in the intake tube. why didnt they just have a sock filter on the end of the intake?

drain the oil out of your final drives before you even run it. fill them back up with new oil. this will make sure they are full and obviously give it some new fresh oil. VERY IMPORTANT!!

look up jdskidsteer on this site. dont buy tracks until you talk to him.

[Skidsteerman]

im also having problems with the fuel filter. my tank has some crap in the bottom of it and every time it gets low it sucks up some crap and it gets stuck in the intake tube. why didnt they just have a sock filter on the end of the intake?

drain the oil out of your final drives before you even run it. fill them back up with new oil. this will make sure they are full and obviously give it some new fresh oil. VERY IMPORTANT!!

look up jdskidsteer on this site. dont buy tracks until you talk to him.

There's a petcock in the bottom of the fuel tank - why not drain it out and flush the tank out to remove the crap? A sock in the tank would be much harder to change out frequently compared to changing a easy to access in line filter IMO.

[Asystole]

It's here!

I haven't gotten much of a chance to play with it yet but it's a whole lot smoother and much more stable than the wheeled one I was using earlier this week.

Seán

[P.Services]

pictures or you will be ban from lawnsite!!!!


my 332 ran like CRAP today. i dont know if a lift pump is going or if its the trash in the tank.

[Bleed Green]

ya lets see some pics....

[JDSKIDSTEER]

pictures or you will be ban from lawnsite!!!!


my 332 ran like CRAP today. i dont know if a lift pump is going or if its the trash in the tank.

99% chance its crap in the tank..I talked to a man that sells big trucks and said ever since they changed the fuel up to low sulfer they have had issues also...He said he went to a seminar one of the fuel companies had and they claim that the new fuel kills the algie inside every tank they touch. Therefore contamination is everywhere. I always suggest putting a water and trash seperator filter on the tanks that most contractors have in the back if their trucks.

[93turbo]

My neighbors 332 had an injector go bad with less then 100 hrs on it so deere replaced all 5

[Asystole]

I finally got to play with it a bit today. I moved about 50 tons of #4 rock around the pole barn we're building. It's definitely what I wanted in a skid steer. I was a happy kid!

Unfortunately, I screwed up and accidentally turned on the AC (but not the fan) without realizing it and it got hot. The CT322 does not have an idiot light, it has gauges. It does however, have an idiot alarm which tells your dumb arse to look at the damm gauges.

Sure as shootin', it got hot and started beeping and flashing a light at me to STOP! Right about that time, I started to smell antifreeze. I immediately stopped the unit and stopped being a happy kid.

Since I'm waiting on my manual to arrive, can someone please tell me how I go about raising the ROPS to get access to the radiator and coolant hoses in order to figure out what went wrong?

[P.Services]

just take those two nuts off that are by the front cab corners and push the cab up.

[Asystole]

Thanks for the info....


....also thanks for not calling me an idiot.....

[P.Services]

do you want to hear the story about the first tim i tried to open the cab up? its bad.

[Asystole]

Yup.


Then maybe I won't repeat those errors in the morning.

[P.Services]

i must have still been drunk from the night before so i went and pulled the two nuts off the front of the cab and then i pulled the two bolts out of the cab up on top by the ac unit. when i did that the gas pistons in the back vaulted the cab up about a foot in the air. The pistons are very stong and would not go back down even after i piled as many rocks on it as i could. so i had to hook a strap to it and route the strap under the round cross bar in the back of the loader arms and then pull it down with my truck. this took hours, royal pain in the ass for just acting without thinking.

[Asystole]

Note to self: Do not pull bolts! :nono:

Ok, so where are the nuts that I do want to remove again?

[P.Services]

they are right next to the two front pillars of the cab. they are big ones, just look at the corners and you will see the big rubber isolators they sinch down on.

i dont know what good your going to do once you get in there though. i would call the dealer and ask the service guy what you should do or what damage it did before i pulled it apart. i have had my ac on plenty of times and not had the fan on and i never had a ploblem.

the idler pulley on the belt system is made of plastic with a bearing pressed into it, they fail alot and the machine will keep running even though the belt is laying there limp as a noodle. thus the fan isnt turning and the engine is getting hot. i had that happen to me once also.

is this machine of yours new or used?

[DeereMan85]

You will want to lock the boom in the up position before tilting the cab for maximum accessibility.

[Asystole]

It's used. I got it Friday and just had a chance to use it today.

[P.Services]

how many hours are on it? did you check your finals for oil level yet?

[Asystole]

You will want to lock the boom in the up position before tilting the cab for maximum accessibility.

Thanks, I saw a sticker that said "boom lock". I presume they weren't talking about hip-hop music and that's the lever or switch I need to throw?

[Asystole]

how many hours are on it? did you check your finals for oil level yet?

It has 735 hours on it.

I don't know how to check the finals (no manual yet) but I had a friend who owns a JD skid steer check it over and, after much poking and prodding and a fair bit of greasing, he pronounced it good to go.

[P.Services]

check that plastic pulley in the back first that may be it. just check to make sure the belt is still on.

on the sides of the final drives are three plugs. one a 12 oclock one a three oclock and one at 6 oclock. track the machine so that they line up just like that, one on the very bottom one at the very top. the middle plug is where the level of the oil should be. to fill it pull the top and middle plug so you can fill from the top and the middle will vent it.

i would pull the bottom plug and drain the old fluid out for sure though then fill it with new stuff. wd-40 or pb blast the shat out of the three plugs a day in advance becasue they can be a beotch to get out. they use a small allen wrench to fasten them and it tends to bend and break the allen key before the plug breaks loose.


did i confuse you enough?

[DeereMan85]

Thanks, I saw a sticker that said "boom lock". I presume they weren't talking about hip-hop music and that's the lever or switch I need to throw?

Yeah, it's the handle to the left side of the seat. Put the boom all the way up, slide the handle all the way out, and let the boom back down until it's resting on the lock.

[P.Services]

Yeah, it's the handle to the left side of the seat. Put the boom all the way up, slide the handle all the way out, and let the boom back down until it's resting on the lock.

and then when your done forget to take it back off and start to freak out and be like "ohhh mother fer what broke now, why wont the arms go down! oh god another repair!!" thats what i did anyways. :hammerhead::hammerhead: im a real bright guy cant you tell.

[Asystole]

and then when your done forget to take it back off and start to freak out and be like "ohhh mother fer what broke now, why wont the arms go down! oh god another repair!!" thats what i did anyways. :hammerhead::hammerhead: im a real bright guy cant you tell.

I could already see myself doing that!

[P.Services]

Did you figure out what the problem was?
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[JDSKIDSTEER]

and then when your done forget to take it back off and start to freak out and be like "ohhh mother fer what broke now, why wont the arms go down! oh god another repair!!" thats what i did anyways. :hammerhead::hammerhead: im a real bright guy cant you tell.

Your not the only one.....At least you did noy have to pay a service call to find out,,,,LOL

[P.Services]

Wow would I feel stupid if I had to call a service truck out for that!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Skidsteerman]

I've seen a guy destroy the gas shocks that help raise the cab up and bent the top of the ROPS trying to lower it back down once. He didn't recenter the red safety bar that's around one of the lift shocks and used another machine to try and push the ROPS/cab back down. Bent the crap out of stuff in the process:rolleyes:

Yea, I could see some one making a service call for that. Heck, just look at some of the 911 calls that are made.:laugh:

[ksss]

I've seen a guy destroy the gas shocks that help raise the cab up and bent the top of the ROPS trying to lower it back down once. He didn't recenter the red safety bar that's around one of the lift shocks and used another machine to try and push the ROPS/cab back down. Bent the crap out of stuff in the process:rolleyes:

Yea, I could see some one making a service call for that. Heck, just look at some of the 911 calls that are made.:laugh:


Wow, now that is stupid.

[Asystole]

Did you figure out what the problem was?
Posted via Mobile Device

Looks like I have a pinhole leak in the radiator. I'm going to try to pull it and get it fixed on Monday.

I decide against the $472 left side glass and went with the $60 panel of Lexan instead. It took me 20 minutes to cut it to fit. That's saving money at a rate of $1200/ hour.

[Asystole]

... and since I don't wanna get banned from Lawnsite, here's a picture of it in action with the boom I designed.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c399/Dweomer/DSC04987.jpg

[JDSKIDSTEER]

I hope you enjoy your machine. Call again if I can help with anything.

[Skidsteerman]

... and since I don't wanna get banned from Lawnsite, here's a picture of it in action with the boom I designed.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c399/Dweomer/DSC04987.jpg

Well, I love that building and which I could build a new larger sq ft building like that then the one I currently have. Only thing is, if I did build one bigger, I would just fill it up too.:rolleyes:

I hope you enjoy your machine. Call again if I can help with anything.

Where in KY are you located?

[Asystole]

I'm located in the cultural metropolis of Fairview, KY (Population:123)

[Skidsteerman]

I'm located in the cultural metropolis of Fairview, KY (Population:123)

That's cool - I was actually asking where JDSKIDSTEER is from though:laugh:

[JDSKIDSTEER]

That's cool - I was actually asking where JDSKIDSTEER is from though:laugh:

I am no where near KY. He just called me for some information and price on tracks.

[Asystole]

Ok, new problem.

Yesterday the seat switch started acting up in the afternoon. It would prevent us from moving the bucket or tracks even when the seat was occupied. One of the guys crossed the seat and seatbelt switch wires and bypassed them. You had to re-disconnect and then reconnect the bypass each time you got out of the seat but it was a functional workaround so we could get through to the end of the day and work on it in the morning.

Come the morning, I find they left the wires connected all night. Hmmmmm. Now my dash display is inop and it won't start. It will crank but not run. Based on the advice I received here, I immediately changed the fuel filters but it still won't start.

Any ideas?

[Junior M]

Check the fuse panel.

[Asystole]

Please don't flame me but, not having received the manual yet, where is the #!&#*$@%^!!!! fuse panel? I've been trying to locate it.

Not to snivel but of course I parked in halfway into my neighbor's barn overhang with a bunch of equipment loaded in the work platform and raised about 8 feet up. Since I can't start it, I can't move the boom or relocate the machine for better accessibility.

Wait...on second thought, yes, I am sniveling.

[Junior M]

Please don't flame me but, not having received the manual yet, where is the #!&#*$@%^!!!! fuse panel? I've been trying to locate it.

Not to snivel but of course I parked in halfway into my neighbor's barn overhang with a bunch of equipment loaded in the work platform and raised about 8 feet up. Since I can't start it, I can't move the boom or relocate the machine for better accessibility.

Wait...on second thought, yes, I am sniveling.
Couldnt tell you, never worked on a Deere! I was just trying to help you out, I had the same problem with the JD 790 at the hunt club a couple weekends ago.

The battery was dead, so I jumped it off, ran enough to get it half way back to my truck and trailer and it just shut off. it wouldnt turn over again because the battery was dead, so I jumped it again and it would do nothing but turn over and never fire. I was getting fuel. Ended up going to test the battery, it had a low charge. I tried jumping across the solenoid, still nothing.

Last place I looked was the fuse panel, ended up being a blown fuse, I guess from jumping it with the truck, that was the only time it popped. I dont know, I am not much of an electrical genius.

[Canon Landscaping]

I think its on the right side by your hip if you are sitting in the machine you have to remove a screw to get the cover off

[P.Services]

I think its on the right side by your hip if you are sitting in the machine you have to remove a screw to get the cover off

yeah hes right had to pull mine today.

[Asystole]

OK, two new fuses later and the dash lights are working. Thanks for the advice.

I charged the battery to 12.3 V and it now tries to start.

Unfortunately, now the starter is just spinning without engaging the flywheel. It whines like my mother-in-law and is just about as aggravating.

Any ideas?

[Junior M]

OK, two new fuses later and the dash lights are working. Thanks for the advice.

I charged the battery to 12.3 V and it now tries to start.

Unfortunately, now the starter is just spinning without engaging the flywheel. It whines like my mother-in-law and is just about as aggravating.

Any ideas?
I know they say dont hit it with a hammer, but just tap on it a little bit, dont beat the living piss out of it.

Something might be catching, or it could just be burnt out from trying to start it..

[Asystole]

I was gonna do just that. ie: treat it like a GM starter and tap it a few times with a hammer but it got fully dark and, since I'm not sure where the starter actually is, I didn't feel I should just beat on things at random in the darkness.

I'll give it a try in the AM.

[P.Services]

i think you are going to be plagued

[Asystole]

Ok, new fuses, new fuel filters, charged battery, replaced the flippin' starter (Of course, nobody had a re-manufactured starter so I had to shell out an extra $100 for a new one. Waah!)

And Viola! She works once again!

[P.Services]

How much was the starter?
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[Asystole]

$167 for the remanufactured one.
$260 for the new.

[P.Services]

Ohh that doesn't even give you a sore bum! What fun is that?
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[ksss]

Ohh that doesn't even give you a sore bum! What fun is that?
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Thats funny.:clapping:

[Asystole]

You know, I was gonna start a new thread but I figured I just keep listing all the feces that goes wrong with buying a used machine.

I promised two neigbors they could use it for an afternoon in exchange for their help building the barn.

Loaned it to neighbor #1 (who has more experience with heavy machinery than just about anybody I know). No problem. His neighbor asks to borrow it from him "just to move a couple of yards of loose fill". That godless communist broke a flippin track! WTFO? New tracks installed.

Let neighbor #2 use it. He brought it back with the bucket stuck in midair. Somehow he broke the hydraulic lockout between the pedals. Two weeks figuring it out on my own because the flippin' mechanic was always too busy to make it out to the farm. Five minutes work on a bench grinder and it works just fine.

Neighbor #3 asks to use it. I say "Nope. I'll come run it for you instead." I go to move the truck and his 18 year old son (who has several hundred hours and is pretty good on a skid steer) gets it stuck in the creek bed full of mud. He had permission from me to use it. :hammerhead: We finally get it out and the left side is sticking a bit. I get it loaded up and back to our farm and bits and pieces of cast metal about 1'" long are falling out behind the sprocket. The left side locks up and the track won't turn.

Mechanic looks at it and says the final drive is DOA.

Where do I go to get a replacement one cheaper than JD's list price?

[ksss]

I believe Picasso bought one of those as well. Not cheap.

[Asystole]

Definitely not cheap!

That's why I'm hoping somebody can point me to a decent used or remanufactured one.

Any ideas?


Oh, BTW, I'm also looking for a roll-up door for one of these machines.

[bobcat_ron]

Ironic your Deere is some what "lemon" colored?

[ksss]

These machines are not like letting the neighbor borrow your M International tractor. I learned very early that you cant give time away on these machines and I think CTL are even more so this way. Facts are the costs associated with running them make it very hard to let guys put hours on them without covering the costs. The kid that buried the machine and helped no doubt bring and end to the final just cost at least 5K likely more unless you do it yourself and get a deal on the parts. That will not be an easy task since those finals are no doubt in high demand.


I can count on one hand the times I have let a machine leave the yard without an operator. Even on the very few times I have something comes back jacked up.

I just tell my friends they would be better off renting from a rental store. Not trying to be a dick but I don't lend out my equipment and I don't work for free.

[Scag48]

Loaning tools never works out regardless of what it is; trucks, trailers, iron, whatever. Watched my old man loan trailers to friends and they came back with broken lights, torn up electrical plugs, etc.. He rented his mini once to a guy that did a bunch of cosmetic damage, which isn't too bad compared to mechanical damage, but it's the principle. My girlfriend's mom wanted to borrow my F350, I told her no. Driving a 1 ton truck in the Seattle area is a PITA, not handing my keys to anyone who doesn't have experience driving a truck of its size, especially in an urban setting.

On the subject of the final drive, man that sucks. You might get in touch with an equipment wrecking yard, they might be able to find something for you. I know there are a few guys on HEF that work for parts suppliers and can find just about anything.

[Asystole]

Sage advice and good ideas.

Anyone know of any equipment wrecking yards? I've called several and had no luck.

[dozerman21]

Try these guys: http://www.csiparts.com/

Ask for Kelly. They don't show any CT322's on their website being parted out, but he may be able to find you one. They're about a half hour north of Indy.

[Asystole]

Try these guys: http://www.csiparts.com/

Ask for Kelly. They don't show any CT322's on their website being parted out, but he may be able to find you one. They're about a half hour north of Indy.

Many thanks!

[Birdhunter1]

Sage advice and good ideas.

Anyone know of any equipment wrecking yards? I've called several and had no luck.
http://www.sewlparts.com/
Don't know where you are in Kentucky but this place is maybe 1- 1 1/2 hours from Paducah.

[Birdhunter1]

They even show a parted out CT 322 on their site: http://www.sewlparts.com/Skid-steer%20Loaders.aspx

[P.Services]

I don't think its the final. Did you pull the track off and see exactly what is broke? I would be you its a rear idler or the big rear roller that broke. They are the only thing that is cast. The final is not and no way could you break a chunk off of it. You got mud and rocks between the track and rollers and it broke the flange off the roller. I've done it and it binds the track up.

Let me know if that's not it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[MOREDIRT]

I have a 322 with 1200 hrs original tracks never had any problems. Machine is driven by some ******ed amigos has been flipped 3 times we use it to dig ponds already worn out the tooth bucket that came on it but it never breaks. Some one must of been very hard on your machine.
Posted via Mobile Device

[P.Services]

Been flipped three times!!! Whhhhaaaaatttt!?!?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Asystole]

Ummmmm, yeah.

I'm no expert but I'm thinking if they've flipped it three times they need to be digging wider ponds.

Either that or you need longer ramps on your trailer.

Just sayin'....

[MOREDIRT]

One time it was working on a pond repair job and the guy backed off the dam and flipped it up on the rear door. It was flipped over forward when a guy was dumping mud over the back side of a dam and had went too far with the bucket raised all the way up. And it was driven in a sink hole that was covered in heavy brush behind a dam. All of the operators are no longer with us.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Asystole]

..... All of the operators are no longer with us.
Posted via Mobile Device

Ummmm...... just exactly what do you mean by that? :eek:

[Asystole]

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c399/Dweomer/Seansphone112.jpg

I called my local Deere dealer and he said to bring it in. He called the regional rep and that guy said they'd help me out to some extent with the costs.

Here's hopin'!

[bobcat_ron]

You really need new sprockets as well!

[Scag48]

That's a big bummer but at least Deere is willing to help you out, that's more than most would get thrown their way IMO. Wow, those sprockets are TOAST. I'm surprised you haven't broken one off yet. Maybe that just shows how little power Deere CTL's put to the ground. :laugh:














I kid, I kid! :drinkup:

[Treemow]

You really need new sprockets as well!

OMG! I agree.

[Asystole]

Ron - Very true. New sprockets are going on with the new final drive.

[bighornjd]

WOW! My attention was drawn to the sprockets before the blown final, lol. Well, good luck to you. I hope you got a good deal on this machine... :eek:

[wanabe]

Wow, You got the record for the worst sprockets I have ever seen on any machine! How many hours are on the machine?

[Asystole]

988 hours.

Why do you think they look so bad? When I got the machine at 730 hours, the original tracks were about glass smooth.

[dozerman21]

That's horrible sprocket life. You should get almost double that and still not have the teeth be that sharp. I'm surprised they have started breaking off. Improper track tension is probably the main culprit. They were most likely ran way too tight. I'd also bet the machine was used in sand or some sort of abrasive material.

[Justin]

You really need new sprockets as well!
Just think if the sprokets look like that what the rest of the u/c looks like?? Or for that matter the rest of the machine up close and personal:dizzy:

[bighornjd]

Just think if the sprokets look like that what the rest of the u/c looks like?? Or for that matter the rest of the machine up close and personal:dizzy:

You make a valid point. Those sprockets should have been replaced with the tracks since he just did them not long ago. For having less than 1000 hours and all these problems, I'm thinking this machine must have lived a rough life. I think we are gonna need more pics of this thing. Was it a rental before you bought it? Like I said, hope you got a good deal cuz obviously this thing is becoming a money pit real fast... :dizzy:

[P.Services]

Looks like I was right!

Did you have oil in that thing? It looks dry to me? That's the main reason those drives go is because they run dry or the oil turns into a paste.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bighornjd]

Looks like I was right!

Did you have oil in that thing? It looks dry to me? That's the main reason those drives go is because they run dry or the oil turns into a paste.
Posted via Mobile Device

Haha, I was gonna ask if he had heeded your advice and changed the oil in it but I didn't see mention of where he did and I didn't wanna pour salt in the wound so I left it alone. Lessons learned via wallet I suppose...:cry: I feel his pain. Stuff like that really sucks, especially on a new-to-you machine...

[Asystole]

Actually I did change the oil when he advised me to. That's what's really annoying. It looks dry because I used some cleaner to clear the worst of the crap out of the gears before I took the picture.

[minimax]

Asystole,I can as my dealer if they still have my old final drive from my ct322,I had a motor go bad but the final was fine.Deere replace the whole final drive and motor.But I don't know if they still have it.

minimax

[Asystole]

Minimax - Thank you very much for the offer but it's already been swapped out at the dealer. They've promised to help me out some on the cost of the final drive. Anybody want to take bets on what they'll do?

They're also changing both sprockets. I could have done that myself and saved some money but they're warranty-ing parts and labor for 1 year so if the problem recurs, I'll be covered.

[Skidsteerman]

but they're warranty-ing parts and labor for 1 year so if the problem recurs, I'll be covered.

That's good to know, above and beyond IMO.

Sprocket wear like that is from sandy soil conditions. Florida suffers from this from what I heard. I have allot of units with well over 3,000 hours on them and the sprockets are about half that wear on average. Only seen a couple that bad, but they were still over 3,000 hours of use on those.

Only seen one unit come through here with the final drive planetary lunch boxed like that and it was due to the owner not maintaining the final drive fluid - not saying you didn't.

[Digdeep]

That's good to know, above and beyond IMO.

Sprocket wear like that is from sandy soil conditions. Florida suffers from this from what I heard. I have allot of units with well over 3,000 hours on them and the sprockets are about half that wear on average. Only seen a couple that bad, but they were still over 3,000 hours of use on those.

Only seen one unit come through here with the final drive planetary lunch boxed like that and it was due to the owner not maintaining the final drive fluid - not saying you didn't.

I have never seen a Deere, Bobcat, Case, Takeuchi, or NH CTL come even close 3,000hrs on a sprocket before being considered for replacement. That is approaching the hours that real dozers and crawlers reach, and they easily travel twice as fast as a dozer (more friction and wear) and CTLs don't have the benefit of a pin and bushing to minimize relative motion between the track and sprocket segment. Why do they replace the sprocket segments on dozers when they turn pins and bushings, or why do you change the sprocket on a motorcycle when the chain is replaced? Because a new surface and an old surface don't wear evenly. The sprocket should be replaced when the tracks are....simple as that.
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[Construct'O]

I have never seen a Deere, Bobcat, Case, Takeuchi, or NH CTL come even close 3,000hrs on a sprocket before being considered for replacement. That is approaching the hours that real dozers and crawlers reach, and they easily travel twice as fast as a dozer (more friction and wear) and CTLs don't have the benefit of a pin and bushing to minimize relative motion between the track and sprocket segment. Why do they replace the sprocket segments on dozers when they turn pins and bushings, or why do you change the sprocket on a motorcycle when the chain is replaced? Because a new surface and an old surface don't wear evenly. The sprocket should be replaced when the tracks are....simple as that.
Posted via Mobile Device

I disagree.Last time i checked i have 1760 hr on my CTL and sprockets,rollers, and idlers will be used again when i replace the tracks.Might switch sides around on sprockets,probably have a little more wear on the forward side compared too use backward.No high speed reverse use here.Check sprockets in pic,still look like they did then.

Track high is still good ,main problem is crack coming across on the inside of the track from the track pin to the outside of the track edge where the rollers run.

As far as pin and bushing turning on dozers don't do that much anymore either with lubed tracks.Just run until detruct.Usually from getting dry pins in the bushing.Usually costs more chasing dry pins around then worth the trouble and time taking tracks off and running them through track shop.

Again it has too do with use of machine,operator, and soil type(black dirt/wet clay) which other then mud is excellent conditons for track wear here.Which i'm glad,and i know not the norm for most on here.Machine is 5 years old,original tracks.If anything we use the machine different them anyone on here.So discount my post because it doesn't fit most.

But there is exceptions too evey rule or thing we do.What my machine does and wear on it's track system shows it.

Piture is of track a year ago last summer.The crack is getting out into the track eadge area.Not going for the the CTL track record :)so will probably switch out before it destructs. Bridgestone oem track.

[Digdeep]

I disagree.Last time i checked i have 1760 hr on my CTL and sprockets,rollers, and idlers will be used again when i replace the tracks.Might switch sides around on sprockets,probably have a little more wear on the forward side compared too use backward.No high speed reverse use here.

Track high is still good ,main problem is crack coming across on the inside of the track from the track pin to the outside of the track edge where the rollers run.

As far as pin and bushing turning on dozers don't do that much anymore either with lubed tracks.Just run until detruct.Usually from getting dry pins in the bushing.Usually costs more chasing dry pins around then worth the trouble and time taking tracks off and running them through track shop.

Again it has too do with use of machine,operator, and soil type(black dirt/wet clay) which other then mud is excellent conditons for track wear here.Which i'm glad,and i know not the norm for most on here.Machine is 5 years old,original tracks.If anything we use the machine different them anyone on here.So discount my post because it doesn't fit most.

But there is exceptions too evey rule or thing we do.What my machine does and wear on it's track system shows it.

Piture is of track a year ago last summer.The crack is getting out into the track eadge area.Not going for the the CTL track record :)so will probably switch out before it destructs. Bridgestone oem track.

No disagreement with an anomoly here and there, but I have seen OEM CTL tracks get close to 2000 hours, but it has been very rare. Most I see get around 1000-1200hrs. I live in WI so I would consider our "soil comditions" mostly kind to wear items in undercarriages and I've seen literally hundreds of machines that have sprockets that will never come close to even 2000 hours before needing replacement. Some of this is related to the operator, but most of it is related to physics and the "love-hate" relationship between a sprocket and a track. Remember that while pin and bushing technology has evolved tremendously to minimize wear, the CTL track only has a "bar" that contacts the sprocket segment without the benefit of a pin and bushing to reduce wear. Of course going in reverse causes the fastest wear.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Skidsteerman]

I have never seen a Deere, Bobcat, Case, Takeuchi, or NH CTL come even close 3,000hrs on a sprocket before being considered for replacement. That is approaching the hours that real dozers and crawlers reach, and they easily travel twice as fast as a dozer (more friction and wear) and CTLs don't have the benefit of a pin and bushing to minimize relative motion between the track and sprocket segment. Why do they replace the sprocket segments on dozers when they turn pins and bushings, or why do you change the sprocket on a motorcycle when the chain is replaced? Because a new surface and an old surface don't wear evenly. The sprocket should be replaced when the tracks are....simple as that.
Posted via Mobile Device

Well you'll probably have even a harder time believing me that we've NEVER sold or replaced one roller to date on any Deere CTL. We've replace several idlers over time though but not too many. I think most of those were due to improper track tension and we had one guy forcing Bobcat tracks on his Deere CT332.

Ten years ago we turned allot of pins and bushings but that stopped pretty quickly. They removed the track press and opened up the service bay for other things. They just replace rails and sprockets today anymore.

I know about the motorcycle chain and sprocket replacement deal - used to race hare scrambles - but even up to the point of my last bike (2001 YZ250) I never replaced the chain and sprockets once my ratio was set when the bikes were new. Maintenance cleaning and lubing the o-ring chains lasted fine.

Now, tell owner or operators they need and should replace their sprockets on CTLS when they replace their tracks and that'll be received as a BIG... NO!!! Sprocket looks fine... still has teeth on it.

My friends think I'm a bit insane because of how I manage my Stihl chain saws. (Mind you, I only cut for firewood for my shop and the farm) I very rarely have chains resharpened and used again. they just don't understand my logic. My big saw (A Stihl 036 pro 20" bar) I run the chisel square teeth chain on it. Once it's dull, I chuck a new chain on it and cut away. Same logic as a motorcycle chain and sprocket rule of thumb. Chain saw chains stretch after use, once it's stretched it wears on the bar sprocket and clutch sprocket. Not only that, but the bottom of the chain links are wearing into the bar guides. I get great life from my bars and sprockets... also my chains making sure not to cut dirt.

[93turbo]

wow so let me get this right you buy new chains to save your bar and sprocket for what? To save your saw? Now I don't know how much wood you cut but the amount I cut is not a lot but if I bought a new chain every time instead of sharpening it I would have wasted enough money to buy a new saw in a few years let alone the fact that bars and sprockets are cheap and replaceble and will last 20 years or better running old sharpened chains and by then you will have saved more then enough money to simply buy a new saw if you want

[Digdeep]

Well you'll probably have even a harder time believing me that we've NEVER sold or replaced one roller to date on any Deere CTL. We've replace several idlers over time though but not too many. I think most of those were due to improper track tension and we had one guy forcing Bobcat tracks on his Deere CT332.

Ten years ago we turned allot of pins and bushings but that stopped pretty quickly. They removed the track press and opened up the service bay for other things. They just replace rails and sprockets today anymore.

I know about the motorcycle chain and sprocket replacement deal - used to race hare scrambles - but even up to the point of my last bike (2001 YZ250) I never replaced the chain and sprockets once my ratio was set when the bikes were new. Maintenance cleaning and lubing the o-ring chains lasted fine.

Now, tell owner or operators they need and should replace their sprockets on CTLS when they replace their tracks and that'll be received as a BIG... NO!!! Sprocket looks fine... still has teeth on it.

My friends think I'm a bit insane because of how I manage my Stihl chain saws. (Mind you, I only cut for firewood for my shop and the farm) I very rarely have chains resharpened and used again. they just don't understand my logic. My big saw (A Stihl 036 pro 20" bar) I run the chisel square teeth chain on it. Once it's dull, I chuck a new chain on it and cut away. Same logic as a motorcycle chain and sprocket rule of thumb. Chain saw chains stretch after use, once it's stretched it wears on the bar sprocket and clutch sprocket. Not only that, but the bottom of the chain links are wearing into the bar guides. I get great life from my bars and sprockets... also my chains making sure not to cut dirt.

You're right...NEVER is statistically very difficult to stomach; so is ALWAYS.

I don't disagree that pin and bushing technology has evolved greatly; however, my point is that the relationship between a CTL track and sprocket is in the dark ages concerning the physics that affect wear between the two....friction/force, contact between the two of them, and relative motion between the bar in the track fitting into the sprocket segments. You can't eliminate two of the three elements (friction/force and contact). Relative motion is the element that can be minimized, thus the evolution of all the pin and bushing technology, SC-2, etc.

CTLs don't have the luxury of a pin and bushing so they wear much faster. Add in the extra speed that a CTL travels at, and the fact that going backwards speeds up this wear and you get sprockets that should be replaced well before 3,000 hours if the life of the replacement tracks is to be maximized. I know most don't change their sprockets at the same time as their tracks, but it would definitely increase the life of that new set of tracks.

I have a Stihl as well, and I sharpen my chain teeth. To each his own, but I don't like spending $20 everytime my teeth get dull if I don't need to. The same goes with how I used to inform my customers that they could save money in the long run by doing things that maximized the value and performance of their purchase (I'm sure you've felt like you're pissing in the wind sometimes). They didn't always listen to me, but it made me feel good knowing that I was trying to provide solutions to them instead of just being their salesman trying to peddle product.

[Skidsteerman]

You're right...NEVER is statistically very difficult to stomach; so is ALWAYS.

I don't disagree that pin and bushing technology has evolved greatly; however, my point is that the relationship between a CTL track and sprocket is in the dark ages concerning the physics that affect wear between the two....friction/force, contact between the two of them, and relative motion between the bar in the track fitting into the sprocket segments. You can't eliminate two of the three elements (friction/force and contact). Relative motion is the element that can be minimized, thus the evolution of all the pin and bushing technology, SC-2, etc.

CTLs don't have the luxury of a pin and bushing so they wear much faster. Add in the extra speed that a CTL travels at, and the fact that going backwards speeds up this wear and you get sprockets that should be replaced well before 3,000 hours if the life of the replacement tracks is to be maximized. I know most don't change their sprockets at the same time as their tracks, but it would definitely increase the life of that new set of tracks.

I have a Stihl as well, and I sharpen my chain teeth. To each his own, but I don't like spending $20 everytime my teeth get dull if I don't need to. The same goes with how I used to inform my customers that they could save money in the long run by doing things that maximized the value and performance of their purchase (I'm sure you've felt like you're pissing in the wind sometimes). They didn't always listen to me, but it made me feel good knowing that I was trying to provide solutions to them instead of just being their salesman trying to peddle product.

I do what I can to inform folks of sprocket wear and it's relation to a new set of tracks as well as what it can do to the finial drive motor and its relating parts. That amount of movement or play in the sprocket teeth (like the one in the photo posted up) may possibly contributed to the planetaries lunch boxing prematurely. It was more then likely hammering on it as the unit traveled forwards and backwards - free play then a sudden full load forced on it. There is usually a reason why components fail and it's not always due to a weak or improper MFG part.

The other thing in your theory about CTL's Vs crawler loaders undercarriage life is while they do travel faster, they are quite a bit lighter. So their physical weight and what they can carry plays into their undercarriage life as well.

[Skidsteerman]

wow so let me get this right you buy new chains to save your bar and sprocket for what? To save your saw? Now I don't know how much wood you cut but the amount I cut is not a lot but if I bought a new chain every time instead of sharpening it I would have wasted enough money to buy a new saw in a few years let alone the fact that bars and sprockets are cheap and replaceble and will last 20 years or better running old sharpened chains and by then you will have saved more then enough money to simply buy a new saw if you want

Depending on the condition of my chain it may get resharpened, but usually just replaced. Everybody has their strangeness and that's one of mine:laugh:

[Digdeep]

IThe other thing in your theory about CTL's Vs crawler loaders undercarriage life is while they do travel faster, they are quite a bit lighter. So their physical weight and what they can carry plays into their undercarriage life as well.

True. However, the weight and robustness of the CTL track and sprocket are also much lighter than the components on a much heavier crawler, and the physics remain unchanged in that most of the torque and friction is on one sprocket tooth going backwards vs. most of it being on two teeth going forward.

[Ozz]

My friends think I'm a bit insane because of how I manage my Stihl chain saws. (Mind you, I only cut for firewood for my shop and the farm) I very rarely have chains resharpened and used again. they just don't understand my logic. My big saw (A Stihl 036 pro 20" bar) I run the chisel square teeth chain on it. Once it's dull, I chuck a new chain on it and cut away. Same logic as a motorcycle chain and sprocket rule of thumb. Chain saw chains stretch after use, once it's stretched it wears on the bar sprocket and clutch sprocket. Not only that, but the bottom of the chain links are wearing into the bar guides. I get great life from my bars and sprockets... also my chains making sure not to cut dirt.

That's why they have those two bolts on the side of the clutch cover... Thay're called chain tensioners, and are very uselful when a chain stretches.

Also, no chains are sharpened from the factory. They need to be sharpened before use.

I get great life from my bars and sprockets too. I use my saws probabaly 1400 hours per year, and replace my bars and sprockets every year.

I won't get infalmmatory about what contributes to a "big" saw.

Also, CTLs are much lighter for the size undercarriages they run. However, the undercrriages are far lighter in build than a dozer/track loader. The amount of wear per hour should be close to the same.

[wanabe]

Depending on the condition of my chain it may get resharpened, but usually just replaced. Everybody has their strangeness and that's one of mine:laugh:

Last time I purchased a new Stihl 20 inch bar and sprocket, I think it was like $50-60 bucks for both. Now a chain from stihl is $26. So why would you throw away the chains? Its far cheeper to wear out the bar/sprocket the to throw away the chain every time. Lets make a deal. You can throw all of your used one time non sharpened chains in a box and I will pick them up for free. I have a oregon shapener and can get 10+ sharpenings out of each one. 10 chains=$260, 10 shapenings=nothing but my time.

[Skidsteerman]

That's why they have those two bolts on the side of the clutch cover... Thay're called chain tensioners, and are very uselful when a chain stretches.

Also, no chains are sharpened from the factory. They need to be sharpened before use.

I get great life from my bars and sprockets too. I use my saws probabaly 1400 hours per year, and replace my bars and sprockets every year.

I won't get infalmmatory about what contributes to a "big" saw.

Also, CTLs are much lighter for the size undercarriages they run. However, the undercrriages are far lighter in build than a dozer/track loader. The amount of wear per hour should be close to the same.

Look, I'm no idiot around saws mmmky. I've made a living years ago servicing and repairing them. I know how to sharpen chains as I've done more then I care to even think about. I know how to sharpen them properly as well.

As far as my saw being a "BIG" saw comment, it is my big saw as I have two saws and the my 036 pro is the larger one of the two. I realize it is by no means a large saw in comparison to whats out there that loggers or tree guys use.

I didn't realize you guys would get so pissy about what I do with my chain saw chains... lighten up.;)

[shooterm]

I use my garbage husqvarna to cut 8' PVC forcemain when we go for repairs at a local canning factory. I;m betting nobody would like the way I thrash a $200 chainsaw but it works really well for controlled draining of the pipe. You can use a chop saw but I can quikly cut three wide slits without getting to covered by rotten vegetable sludge with the chainsaw.

[Digdeep]

Look, I'm no idiot around saws mmmky. I've made a living years ago servicing and repairing them. I know how to sharpen chains as I've done more then I care to even think about. I know how to sharpen them properly as well.

As far as my saw being a "BIG" saw comment, it is my big saw as I have two saws and the my 036 pro is the larger one of the two. I realize it is by no means a large saw in comparison to whats out there that loggers or tree guys use.

I didn't realize you guys would get so pissy about what I do with my chain saw chains... lighten up.;)

skidsteerman...They're your chainsaws....I don't have an issue with what you do with your stuff...to each his own.:drinkup:

[Asystole]

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c399/Dweomer/Seansphone112.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c399/Dweomer/December2010-2010.jpg

Deere replaced both sprockets, swapped out the bad final drive motor and gears (it's a single unit), and re-changed the final drive oil in the unaffected side.

It was 2 years out of warranty but they paid 50% of the costs. I've got nothing but good things to say about the dealer.

[JDSKIDSTEER]

So glad to see you got help.

[Asystole]

Yup. And thanks for the suggestion to ask if JD corporate would help out. You saved me a couple of grand and got additional work done gratis. I appreciate it.

[JDSKIDSTEER]

Yup. And thanks for the suggestion to ask if JD corporate would help out. You saved me a couple of grand and got additional work done gratis. I appreciate it.

No problem. It always pays to ask for help. :)