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scruff33
10-22-2009, 08:24 PM
Some of you may remember this thread:
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=292897

Well within the last week I now have some reddish patches in my lawn. I have no idea what it is, and it's almost as if the stuff sprung overnight. I did have some red thread in the late spring I had to control, but it looked nothing like this. My most recent treatment was Scott's winterizer weed & feed (32-8-12, or something like that). I've kept up with mowings, and just had my blade sharpened a couple days ago.

If you notice in the photos there looks to be some of that reddish color in the adjacent field so I don't know if it's just spreading into my lawn or what. For what it's worth the roots are still strong. When I pull on it it doesn't want to come up, so maybe that's somewhat positive! See photos attached.

Location: Cincinnati area
Soil: Heavy clay
Grass: Tall Fescue mix; lawn gets lots of sun.

Ugh. Lawn care is apparently not my thing. :dizzy:

Smallaxe
10-23-2009, 02:30 AM
Clay, sun, and more fertilizer. There are patches that are not getting good air into the soil nor water percolation, so the root area (rhizosphere) dries quickly. Then, when it is stressed - it dies.

Yes, the roots being strong , can be, a good sign. However you should see if those dead areas start any new growth when conditions improve. Too much N on clay is a lot like dog urine spots.

You need a soil structure, for the rootzone , when you have clay!

"Plug" the dead zones, then "plug" other surviving zones. Observe every detail that may help you figure out what is going on.

It's pretty simple , really... Think water movement and air penetration, then ask yourself. "Are the roots, happy with this?"

scruff33
10-23-2009, 07:36 AM
Yes, the roots being strong , can be, a good sign. However you should see if those dead areas start any new growth when conditions improve. Too much N on clay is a lot like dog urine spots.


Well... I don't see conditions improving until Spring. So just wait out the winter?

Thing is I put down the fertilizer almost 4 weeks ago, it's slow release, and we've had plenty of rain. Would it take this long to burn? The other strange thing is this is only showing up on the back 1/3 of my back yard. Everything else including the front is fine. We do get a lot of deer that roam through that part of the yard. Could it be deer urine that's causing the problem?


You need a soil structure, for the rootzone , when you have clay!

"Plug" the dead zones, then "plug" other surviving zones. Observe every detail that may help you figure out what is going on.


Pardon my ignorance by I don't know what you mean when you say "plug" the dead zones and surviving ones.


It's pretty simple , really... Think water movement and air penetration, then ask yourself. "Are the roots, happy with this?


So... is a good aeration in order? Or is it too late in the season for that?

Smallaxe
10-23-2009, 11:29 AM
Areation with topdressing of compost will - always - help.

Do you use a "plugger" for aerator? [A machine that actully pulls plugs out of the ground and they lay about looking like goose poop everywhere when your done?]
That is the type of plugging I am talking about.

You can 'plug aerate' the lawn then walk around picking up and inspecting individual plugs and see what the soil is really like and how your roots look in that plug. Be sure the ground is not soggy, when you do it.

As far as having plenty of rain... Moisture in the rootzone along with air in the rootzone is what is important. Clay soil become like concrete and plenty of rain only soaks up about a 1/2 inch then quickly dries, for example. That is why picking up a chunk of ground and inspecting it is important. You need to know for sure what your rootzone is like.

mdlwn1
10-23-2009, 11:34 AM
Maintaining a lawn at that height is an art. You may have many issues that will be exagerated when cut like that.

scruff33
10-23-2009, 12:11 PM
Maintaining a lawn at that height is an art. You may have many issues that will be exagerated when cut like that.

I thought 3" was normal, especially in the fall? During the summer I was cutting at 3.5".


Do you use a "plugger" for aerator? [A machine that actully pulls plugs out of the ground and they lay about looking like goose poop everywhere when your done?]


I don't personally own an aerator, I had a lawn care company do it in Fall of 2008. I assume it's not too late in the season to aerate, but what about aerating and overseeding? I would think it's much to late for that now. I was going to skip a year since I don't have any barespots... but I'm now rethinking that strategy.

As for aeration and overseeding, I've heard mixed info on doing this in the spring. Would that be a bad idea?

mdlwn1
10-23-2009, 12:19 PM
Sorry..that ist pic didnt look like 3" to me.

Stevegotcrabgrass
10-26-2009, 10:51 AM
to me it almost looks like weeds/crabgrass going dormant as the colder weather approaches. That can make a Green looking lawn turn colors. as the good turf grass can stay green the weeds die and turn colors. I would def. core aerate and overseed. some have mixed views on this but one thing that has worked for me is spread 1/4 of the seed before you aerate. Aerate the hell outtta it, and spread the rest of your seed. Keep it watered. Just my thoughts.

scruff33
10-27-2009, 12:12 PM
to me it almost looks like weeds/crabgrass going dormant as the colder weather approaches. That can make a Green looking lawn turn colors. as the good turf grass can stay green the weeds die and turn colors. I would def. core aerate and overseed. some have mixed views on this but one thing that has worked for me is spread 1/4 of the seed before you aerate. Aerate the hell outtta it, and spread the rest of your seed. Keep it watered. Just my thoughts.

Over the last couple days those areas have changed from a reddish color to more of a beige (dormant) color. Roots are still strong so I am less concerned about it than before.

As for a core aerate and overseed, isn't it getting too late in the season to do this? I probably only mow until early/mid November before the grass stops growing. Seeds wouldn't have enough time to put down any roots. Or am I wrong in my thinking? When would be the latest I could do this with results?

Stevegotcrabgrass
10-27-2009, 01:05 PM
I would try and get it done before the first frost. I think if you get the seed down soon (i.e. the next couple of days you should be okay) Aerating now would be beneficial either way. Worst case scenario you waste a few bucks on seed. I would do as I posted earlier and try to do it asap. How cold has it been around your area. As long as the ground isn't very cold the seed should germinate.

scruff33
10-27-2009, 02:49 PM
Steve,
I think we already had a frost a couple weeks ago, as our October as been much colder than normal (Cincinnati). I'll call around a couple local lawn care companies and see what they say.

cgaengineer
10-27-2009, 03:09 PM
to me it almost looks like weeds/crabgrass going dormant as the colder weather approaches. That can make a Green looking lawn turn colors. as the good turf grass can stay green the weeds die and turn colors. I would def. core aerate and overseed. some have mixed views on this but one thing that has worked for me is spread 1/4 of the seed before you aerate. Aerate the hell outtta it, and spread the rest of your seed. Keep it watered. Just my thoughts.

I was going to say the same thing, looks like spots of dead CG.

It also looks like you have a good stand of grass to work with.

Stevegotcrabgrass
10-27-2009, 03:19 PM
What is the ground tempature? Anything over 45 degrees Farenheit ground temp is okay for germination of cool season grasses.