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View Full Version : New spray rig (question about gal/acre)


Scarlawnturf
10-24-2009, 11:49 AM
Several weeks ago I asked for advice on 3 point spray systems, so I thought I'd share what I ended up with. It's from a company called Crop Care in Lititz, Pa. I was able to drive there and pick it up, saving the shipping costs. It's a 55 gal tank and works perfect for athletic fields and large properties. It fits nicely on the rear of my NH 1030. So far I've only run water through it for calibration. I do have a question.... On my Momentum FX2 label it talks about standard volume (20 to 200 gal per acre)and low volume (5 to 40 gal per acre) broadcast applications. As I am new to this spray method, what should I be shooting for as far as pressure and gal per acre? I currently have XRC11003 Teejets installed. I'm doing a job this week that I'll be putting down a required 30 gal/acre with 40 psi and 3mph (it's a new natrual fertilizer product) But I'm unsure about the broadleaf control gal/acre and psi recommendations.

Josh.S
10-24-2009, 12:33 PM
Several weeks ago I asked for advice on 3 point spray systems, so I thought I'd share what I ended up with. It's from a company called Crop Care in Lititz, Pa. I was able to drive there and pick it up, saving the shipping costs. It's a 55 gal tank and works perfect for athletic fields and large properties. It fits nicely on the rear of my NH 1030. So far I've only run water through it for calibration. I do have a question.... On my Momentum FX2 label it talks about standard volume (20 to 200 gal per acre)and low volume (5 to 40 gal per acre) broadcast applications. As I am new to this spray method, what should I be shooting for as far as pressure and gal per acre? I currently have XRC11003 Teejets installed. I'm doing a job this week that I'll be putting down a required 30 gal/acre with 40 psi and 3mph (it's a new natrual fertilizer product) But I'm unsure about the broadleaf control gal/acre and psi recommendations.

I'm not sure what that part of the label means, but 30 gallons to the acre is plenty. I spray a similar product in my Zspray @ 40psi through teejet nozzles and 11 gallons per acre with no problems. Just mix it at your 1oz per k or whatever and you should be good. :laugh:

I probably would not go over 40psi because it will have smaller droplets and begin to drift (generally).

rcreech
10-24-2009, 02:18 PM
30 gallons/ac is way too high!

Water is your enemy. Keep your gallons as low as possible.

I would recommend 12 gallon max and wouldn't be afriad to go lower but switch to using AI tips. This will allow you do reduce drift and run lower gallons. You will want to run anywhere from 40-60 psi and also I would recommend adding new tip bodies with diaphrams to keep it from dripping (you may already have them).

I started out with a unit almost like yours.

Also...I would definitly recommend adding a foam marker.

Josh.S
10-24-2009, 02:38 PM
30 gallons/ac is way too high!

Water is your enemy. Keep your gallons as low as possible.

I would recommend 12 gallon max and wouldn't be afriad to go lower but switch to using AI tips. This will allow you do reduce drift and run lower gallons. You will want to run anywhere from 40-60 psi and also I would recommend adding new tip bodies with diaphrams to keep it from dripping (you may already have them).

I started out with a unit almost like yours.

Also...I would definitely recommend adding a foam marker.

I think that he is spraying a fertilizer with the weed killer if I read the post correctly. If so, he should keep his water at least at 30 gallons per acre in my opinion. When you are hose dragging and spraying fertilizer most guys are at 88-132 gallons per acre. Also at 132 gallons per acre you can get great weed control hose dragging. When ChemLawn started they used 176 gallons per acre.

The main benefit in my opinion of using less water is just the fact that you can go longer in between fills and less weight to transport. I got great weed control when I used to hose sprayed at 110 gallons per acre.

Scarlawnturf
10-24-2009, 04:45 PM
Thanks all, for your comments so far. Let me explain about the 30 gal/acre comment. The local high school fields that I've treated for the past several years, wants to experiment with some soil ammendments, fertility products and nutritional supplements from a company called 3 Tier Technologies. These products claim to help hard use athletic fields regenerate/rejuvenate much faster. Their product mix calls for 30 gal/acre. That was set by the manufacturer. My other question was just about general broadleaf control, and if I read your answers correctly it sounds like I need to stay around 10 to 12 gal/acre (or maybe a little less?)and around 40 psi. I'll probably be adding a foam marker, but the football field is pretty easy to track with my 12 ft boom and hash marks on the field. Also, I may look into the air induction tips as well. The setup I have now is dripless. Thanks again, I've been licensed for 4 years now and I'm verly slowly moving to the big leagues. You all have been a great help.
Ed

Josh.S
10-24-2009, 05:18 PM
Thanks all, for your comments so far. Let me explain about the 30 gal/acre comment. The local high school fields that I've treated for the past several years, wants to experiment with some soil ammendments, fertility products and nutritional supplements from a company called 3 Tier Technologies. These products claim to help hard use athletic fields regenerate/rejuvenate much faster. Their product mix calls for 30 gal/acre. That was set by the manufacturer. My other question was just about general broadleaf control, and if I read your answers correctly it sounds like I need to stay around 10 to 12 gal/acre (or maybe a little less?)and around 40 psi. I'll probably be adding a foam marker, but the football field is pretty easy to track with my 12 ft boom and hash marks on the field. Also, I may look into the air induction tips as well. The setup I have now is dripless. Thanks again, I've been licensed for 4 years now and I'm verly slowly moving to the big leagues. You all have been a great help.
Ed

Maybe I am missing something, but to me, water is water. When hose dragging standard rate is 1.5-3 gallons per thousand (66-132 gallons per acre). Since the boom is more accurate, and to save fills, most apply lower rates of water with a boom compared to hose dragging. I got good kills with a similar product at 88 gallons per acre so I don't see any reason that you can't just put your weed control in with the soil amendments and spray it at 30 gallons per acre.

Scarlawnturf
10-24-2009, 06:30 PM
I hear what you are saying, but the 30 gal/acre is just for the natural supplement job. I'm not killing weeds here, just putting out the natural fertility stuff. (that called for 30 gal/acre) I was just wondering if I go out to kill weeds only, what settings to use on my rig. It sounds like you are saying it really doesn't matter how much water to put down for weed control?
Ed

CHARLES CUE
10-24-2009, 06:42 PM
I think we got off track he asked what to apply the herbicide at . ed you just dump in the required amount of herbicide in the tank as you are filling the tank and let it mix up .Fill the tank up with 30 gals of your mixture i always spray down to about 5 gals than refill tank back to 35 gals and add your herbicides as your filling up again your going to spray the herbicides at 30 gals a acre along with your mixture. just a thought after this round you might want to recalibrate at a faster speed 3mph seems a little slow i do 4.2 and that not any to fast. How do you tell how fast your going
hope this helps Charles Cue

RigglePLC
10-24-2009, 09:09 PM
For the sake of simpicity you may want to stay at 30 gallons per acre--for both soil amendments and later for herbicide. Next year you may want to increase from 3 mph to 5 mph--which would give you 18 gallons per acre.

However, these 3 Tier experimental soil amendments--are they soluble? Cloudy suspension? Particles of chicken manure? What kind of filter do they suggest? Will it plug your nozzles? Burn the grass in hot weather? Will the crackerjack salesman help you apply it?
Wait, I see it is various fertilizers mixed with humic acids. Let us know how it comes out.
http://www.3tiertech.com/research.html

rcreech
10-24-2009, 10:25 PM
I hear what you are saying, but the 30 gal/acre is just for the natural supplement job. I'm not killing weeds here, just putting out the natural fertility stuff. (that called for 30 gal/acre) I was just wondering if I go out to kill weeds only, what settings to use on my rig. It sounds like you are saying it really doesn't matter how much water to put down for weed control?
Ed

Ed,

That is right...water is only the carrier for the herbicide so you want to use as little as possible.

Going much below 8-10 gallon will be more prone to drift.

If you go 30 gallon/acre...you WILL NOT get a better kill, you will just have to carry more water and REFILL more.

Those two will cost you a lot more money.

When you are filling you are not spraying! :)

ted putnam
10-24-2009, 10:47 PM
As someone else said, keep it simple. If you do a compatibility test and the supplements and the herbicide are ok together and the supplements recommend 30 gal/acre then by all means mix your herbicide for that same rate and spray them together. Make one trip over the areas instead of 2 or more. That's the nice thing about spraying with a little higher volume. Many times you can mix multiple products(including fertilizers) at the same time and apply them in one trip. Now, If I were spraying weed control only on 100 acres, I'd spray as low volume as I could get away with and still be effective, like Creech said to save fill time.JMO

Scarlawnturf
10-25-2009, 09:10 AM
All of your answers have been very helpful. I may have stumbled onto a controversial issue about gal/acre, but I think I can read between the lines. I'm also going to have a selection of tips to be able to change MPH. The 3 Tier Technology stuff I was talking about wasn't sold to me, the school system purchased it and just asked me to spray it because I already maintained the fields and they wanted to keep me in the loop. I'll let you know how it turns out. I did see some time lapse repair photos of some very worn out Parks and Rec fields, other high school fields and a university field(I don't remember which one) In about 3 months, the turn around was quite amazing. These are irrigated fields that only have the summer months off. (except for the parks and rec fields) The rest of the year they are heavily used. I'll report back. Thank you again.
Ed