View Full Version : 14" brick saw for wall block

06-01-2000, 05:24 PM
Hello,<p>I'm in the process of deciding what kind of paver saw I want to buy and ran into a dilema. <p>I'm looking to get a basic model paver saw just to cut the pavers (10 inch, around 1000, MK/target, electric) but then saw a 14 inch gas model with honda motor for 2000.<p>Was wondering if I could use the 14&quot; saw to also cut wall block (usually 6 inch thick). I ask this because I am also about ready to buy a demo saw (around 800 to a 1000) and thought that if the paver saw could cut both for $2000, then it would make sense. I know I could use the 14&quot; saw for cutting the cap units (the amaller brick saw usually has trouble with these), which is usually where I need the demo saw the most, but would like to be able to cut the blocks too. Being I would only need to by ONE diamond blade instead of two, it also seems like it would be more savings.<p>Any comments appreciated because I need to purchase saw/saws in a week for jobs I have lined up.<p>steveair

06-01-2000, 06:27 PM
steve <p>i use my 14 inch partner saw to cut wall block ....i did one yesterday...had no problem cutting the 6 in bricks....<p>rick

06-01-2000, 07:14 PM
Hey Steve - <p>I wouldn't mess with an electric - if you're at a residential job you'll be popping circuit breakers all day. As for the 14&quot; tub saw - you won't be able to get the clearance to get the block through, and you'd need to cut it on both sides (14&quot; blade, w/ 4&quot; arbor guard means only 5&quot; cutting depth). For cutting retaining wall block I use a 16&quot; Partner K950. You can get through a 6&quot; block with that without flipping the block over. <p>But if I had $2k to spend on saws, I guess I'd buy a 12&quot; Partner and a 16&quot; Partner. Or one 16&quot; with different sized blades. The 14&quot; tub saws are really only good for pieces that are 4&quot; tall and shorter. Unless you start getting into the monster 20&quot; tub saws.

06-01-2000, 09:03 PM
Follow Stonehedge's advice on saws.<br>Tub saws 14&quot; min. 9 hp needed to saw well.<br>20&quot; is ideal with 11hp or even better the 20hp honda. We have been using our hand saws 12&quot; Partner for brick cuttingfor the last 3 years speeds have gone up and we use alot less labor, we figure about a 30% savings over a tub saw. We use a 12&quot; saw for cutting block it's the minium needed but most of our block are split and then trimmed with a hand grinder with a diamond wheel.<p>----------<br>paul<br>

06-01-2000, 10:57 PM
Hello,<p>thanks for the replies, very interesting in what you guys have. <p>I guess my main problem is 1. money and 2. don't do as many jobs as you.<p>I have always done my paver work using a 1.5 hp electric tub saw. And yes, your right, its a real pain to be flipping breakers all the time, especially when the customer isn't home.....<p>I have seen guys use just cut-off saws for paver works, but always thought it was a pain to hold the smaller paver and try to cut it with the big saw, especially when you just have to cut off a small corner. Thats why I have always used the tub saw. <p>I'm still not sure, but so far, heres what I got now. I guess I'll scratch the idea of the 14&quot; tub saw for block, and just get a cut-off saw for the block work. Right now, I have a deal to get a used TS 400 stihl for around 400. It's only 12&quot;, and I know I will have to flip blocks, but I have grown use to this and figure that for know it will have to do until I can swing the cash for the 16&quot;. Plus, most of my work is pavers only, so I will not have to do this as much.<p>The 11hp tub saw sounds like a monster. I wasn't even aware they had ones that big. <p>What I am thinking about doing is maybe getting the 14&quot; tub saw with 5.5hp honda for pavers. Paul, I know you said 9hp min, but I don't even know where to get one, none the less afford one. Since I'm use to the small electric tub, the gas 5.5 should be a good step up..........and no fuses to blow, which I am in agreement with you on being a big pain the ass. <p>So, for around 2500 (plus diamond blades), I'll have a used 12&quot; cut-off and a new 14&quot; tub with gas power. Does this sound alright.<p>Then again, maybe I should think about just buying a new 16&quot; cut off and scratch the tub. I'm confused now. <p>Say, where do you guys park your trailers at night.............just kidding.<p>I envy you guys for the setups you have. <p>thanks,<br>steveair <p>

06-01-2000, 11:10 PM
One more quick thing,<p>Paul, you said you split the blocks and then use a grinder. Splitting is faster than cutting, but is this really quicker than just getting a 16&quot; saw to go all the way through and leave a straight edge on the face?<p>Also, I take it you only grind enough so to leave a straight edge on the face and enought so the blocks snug together next to each other. Not quite sure on what you are grinding here?<br>And last, what kind of grinder are you using?<p><br>thanks again,<br>steveair<p>P.S. anyone know any good sources on the web to buy equip like this. Found prices on partners, but am also looking for tub saw prices and have had little luck.<p><p><font size="1">Edited by: steveair

06-01-2000, 11:14 PM
Steveair, A EDCO 9hp honda costs $2035 with out tax get it. 5 hp honda costs $1900 for the $135 go with the bigger saw it will save you time. Also when buying blades get the hand saw blades for your tub saws they cost more but last longer <p>Also don't talk about removing equipment from my yard had a New Holland 783 disapear this month and insurance company doesn't like having to pay $20K for replacing it.<br>they would go nuts with my hardscape equipment trailers!<p>----------<br>paul<br>

06-01-2000, 11:28 PM
We just grind enough for a straight edge when blocks need to be tight. We use Bosch 5&quot; angle grinders with a diamond wheel.<br>Just so you know we have to grind our edges on the off side of the cap stone for liability reasons (no sharp edges for the kids to hurt themselves)<p>----------<br>paul<br>

06-01-2000, 11:51 PM
Boy, I'd be careful with a used cutoff saw. I've seen guys burn through those in a single season. If you can, prior to purchasing, take the muffler off of it - it's a two cycle, so if you press that compression release button and pull the starter cord slowly, you'll be able to see the side of the piston through the exhaust port. It should be smooth as silk. If you see vertical grooves, it may have been misused, and only have a little life left. And not worth repairing. Parts are too expensive, and many brands you can't take apart without destroying part of the saw.<p>I bought my first Partner (16&quot;) last year and absolutely loved it. HP to burn, reliable as anything. I bought a 12&quot; this year to use for pavers - cut 'em while they lay on the base - the blade goes just a smidge deeper than the brick. Don't even have to carry the brick to a tub saw. You could do double duty with a 16&quot; - just buy a 16&quot; blade and a 12&quot; blade - then you can cut both brick and block, and you're still way under budget. The 12&quot; blade can handle the K950 RPMs (5500, I think).<p>You'll still have some oddball cuts you can't get to with the 12&quot;, but if you've already got that electric, you could use that when cutting around sump lines, buried downspouts, etc.<p>Do it that way and I think what Paul said is dead-on - you'll save all kinds of time. If it takes you more than 1 hr to cut in the projects you do, you'll save time this way.

06-02-2000, 04:33 PM
Hello,<p>stonehenge, you said for jobs that take more than 1 hr, the cut-off will save me time. <p>Cutting usually takes me a long time, almost always over a couple of hours at least. For a 60 ft walk, it takes me close to 4 plus hrs to cut in the sides with the tub saw (with myself and a helper) and thats with having pavers already lined up along walk ready to go. <p>I don't know if this is good or not. All I know, is that I am very precise with my cuts and make them all 'right' on. I know guys that do it in half the time I do, but then I know people that say my work looks twice as good, though I charge a little more. <p>I rememember doing a sub job for a other contractor, and he couldn't believe how long it took me to cut. However, when it was finished, it was funny, because all his crew who were there working on another part of the yard said, &quot;wow, Our's never look that good&quot;. Even funnier, the guy did a walk in the back, and the homeowner herself said that my worked looked much better than the one in the back. The contractor kind of swallowed some pride on that one.<p>I like the quality of cut I am getting now, and am afraid to lose it. This is partly why I am someone &quot;stuck&quot; in my ways per say. <p>By the way, who ever mentioned the problems with buying a used cut-off made me rethink again and I guess I won't. <p>Looking at the partners now. Saw a 16&quot; model 995 (i believe) for around 950 at alamia.com. Maybe the safer way to go. <p>Starting to think I may never get these saws now..........<p>By the way, where is a good edco dealer. Interested in taking a look at one.<p>Thanks again,<p>steveair

06-02-2000, 04:38 PM
Hey paul,<p>I guess your caps don't already have a bevel on the edge, or is the bevel not good enough. I use a product from Grinnel, here in NJ, and they have a good bevel already.<p>One thing though, the caps are double faced (rough/beveled on both faces) and are a problem sometime when starting pavers at the back face of them. left with a 1/4 to almost a 1/2 gap sometimes between paver and cap. Sometimes I just chisel off any of the big chunks, but maybe the grinder would be good for this. thanks<p>steveair

06-02-2000, 05:21 PM
Steveair, Some block that we get only has a bevel on one side (face) others have a bevel on both sides but don't have a bevel on the outside edges.<br>As far as cutting brick with a hand saw we do it it goes much faster and the edge is much better because it is more even (saw cuts two bricks at one time) so edges are straighter.<p><p>----------<br>paul<br>