View Full Version : Help converting 9 acres to a weed free no-mow area...naturally.
mitsuman47
11-13-2009, 11:16 AM
Hi guys,
I have an area of land that is 9 acres in east texas. I'm wanting to convert it back to a "no-mow" area because the native grasses and wild flowers (that grow to be about 1 foot) are quite attractive, and I'm looking to reduce my impact. But, I have johnson grass and a few other weeds all throughout the field that tower over and aren't quite as nice looking as the bahia grass.
Is there anything I can apply to kill off johnson grass? I believe there is smutgrass there, too.
Thanks for the help. And, any other tips you know of to speed of the "re-naturalization" of my land would be great.
Ryan
ICT Bill
11-13-2009, 12:34 PM
Here are some notes that look helpful
Written for the Illinois Nature Preserves Commission by:
Max Hutchison Natural Land Institute
Similar Species
Sorghum halepense with its white leaf vein, wide leaves, and reddish seedhead is distinguished from (1) eastern gamagrass (Tripsacum dactyloides), which has flowers in a spike rather than a loose panicle; (2) switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), which has no white vein and a greenish-yellow seedhead; 3) big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) and Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans) which both have narrower leaves and usually lack a prominent vein.
Johnson grass invades riverbank communities and disturbed sites, particularly fallow fields and forest edges, where it crowds out native species and slows succession. It quickly dominates the herbaceous flora, reduces plant diversity, and is unsightly to observers. It occurs in disturbed parts of several natural areas such as Lower Cache, Horseshoe Lake, and Robeson Hills. This grass is a serious potential threat in many old fields where succession to forest communities is desired.
Johnson grass is a very aggressive, perennial grass. It occurs in dense clumps that spread by seed and rhizomes to form nearly pure stands. The grass emerges late in spring and forms seed by July 1, reaching a height of 8 or more feet. Stems and leaves die back after the first frost, but the dead litter often covers the ground all winter. Rhizome cuttings commonly form new plants, making it very difficult to eradicate. It spreads rapidly and is not affected by many of the agricultural herbicides.
Looks like you have your hands full with this one, even if you dig it up it will leave rhizomes and continue the spread
Repeated and close mowing kills Johnson grass seedlings, prevents seed production, and reduces rhizome growth and regrowth of shoots. Sites may be tilled where it is practical (e.g. abandoned cropland) and the exposed roots left to winter kill. Repeated tillage (e.g. 6 times at 2- week intervals during the growing season) prevents rhizome development and reduces Johnson grass populations. Limited early season tillage, however, encourages rhizome growth by spreading pieces of the rhizomes. In a monoculture, livestock may be used to eliminate the Johnson grass by grazing. Spraying 2% Roundup on foliage using a tractor and power sprayer provides effective control.
This guy was writing for Illinois and not east Texas, you probably don't get enough real cold weather like they do in Illinois. it looks like you will have to use a nonselective herbicide and go through the field, personally I like FIRE
But it sounds like you could put goats on there for a couple of years and take care of it and then sell them as adults
mitsuman47
11-13-2009, 01:14 PM
Thanks for the help, Bill!
The more I research burning, the more I like it. I just dont understand how the grass grows back better than the weeds. I always thought they (the weeds) were the better opportunist.
What time of year do you think I should burn? And, is this an annual thing I should do until the weeds are mostly gone?
Kiril
11-13-2009, 01:21 PM
Sometimes you just have to suck it up and use herbicides to get the system back to a natural state.
growingdeeprootsorganicly
11-13-2009, 01:47 PM
trying to stop J grass in a large field with a torch will be an endless battle you will never win not to mention the risk and danger of possibly setting the field on fire?
spot spraying with glyphosate would be your best bet as much as i hate to endorse anything to do with Monsanto
that is if your cultivars are not resistant to it yet?
mitsuman47
11-13-2009, 02:18 PM
I haven't used any form of herbicide yet. So, they should be nice and vulnerable.
Maybe I could get our volunteer FD to "practice" and burn my field for me...Could possibly get it burned and watered at the same time. :laugh:
If I'm able to do a total burn, would it be a good idea to hit the new growth with a light dose of something a few months later? What kind of $$$ am I looking at spending to treat 9 acres?
growingdeeprootsorganicly
11-13-2009, 02:48 PM
just because you haven't use any chems doesn't mean a thing. seeds spread
burning the whole field will make good fertilizer for the J grass.
you don't need to treat the whole field? only the undesirable plants your saying you want gone? spot spray them only.
sounds like you require services from a local professional
phasthound
11-13-2009, 03:29 PM
spot spraying with glyphosate would be your best bet as much as i hate to endorse anything to do with Monsanto
Then don't buy glyphosate manufactured by Monsanto. Also the usage rate can be lowered substantially if a small amount of humate is added to the mix.
growingdeeprootsorganicly
11-13-2009, 04:56 PM
if monies don't go to US made gly"monsanto" then it goes to generic gly made in CHINA
either way it's a draw...
phasthound
11-13-2009, 05:08 PM
if monies don't go to US made gly"monsanto" then it goes to generic gly made in CHINA
either way it's a draw...
I just can't make you happy, can I? :)
Grohorganic
11-13-2009, 07:18 PM
Sometimes you just have to suck it up and use herbicides to get the system back to a natural state. yep nuke it and then try and add the mulch compost and leaves that nature would have put there in the first place
atouchofnature
11-13-2009, 11:26 PM
Then don't buy glyphosate manufactured by Monsanto. Also the usage rate can be lowered substantially if a small amount of humate is added to the mix.
This is the first time I have heard about adding humate to reduce the amount used. Please fill me in on that. How much humate is used, and how much is the glyphosphate reduced?
Thanks
Smallaxe
11-14-2009, 08:52 AM
Natural = neglect... If j grass survives long term then it has been naturalized.
Grass bounces back after a burn better than, so-called weeds, because that is the way of the prairie. Are you in a prairie region?
Kiril
11-14-2009, 09:56 AM
Natural = neglect... If j grass survives long term then it has been naturalized.
Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense) is not native to this country.
http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=SOHA&mapType=nativity&photoID=soha_002_ahp.jpg
ICT Bill
11-14-2009, 11:10 AM
Natural = neglect... If j grass survives long term then it has been naturalized.
Grass bounces back after a burn better than, so-called weeds, because that is the way of the prairie. Are you in a prairie region?
actually what he is talking about is succession. If you notice in the verbiage that was in my first post they speak specifically to succession
there is some very interesting data on how much black carbon is in the pairie soils from the millions of years of fires
phasthound
11-14-2009, 11:57 AM
This is the first time I have heard about adding humate to reduce the amount used. Please fill me in on that. How much humate is used, and how much is the glyphosphate reduced?
Thanks
The addition of humates allows for a more thorough uptake by the plant.
Email me for more details.
Kiril
11-14-2009, 12:28 PM
The addition of humates allows for a more thorough uptake by the plant.
Email me for more details.
Barry, if you would please post some research that substantiates this it would be much appreciated .... that is anything other than the patent.
http://www.google.com/patents?id=IhGjAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1
phasthound
11-14-2009, 01:28 PM
Barry, if you would please post some research that substantiates this it would be much appreciated .... that is anything other than the patent.
http://www.google.com/patents?id=IhGjAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1
Nice link Kiril. You're the Lord of Research.
I'm sure Clorox will do well when it markets this product. But why pay them the big bucks when you don't have to?
dishboy
11-14-2009, 02:38 PM
Then don't buy glyphosate manufactured by Monsanto. Also the usage rate can be lowered substantially if a small amount of humate is added to the mix.
Ammonium Sulfate will also help with effectiveness as well as a surfactant.
integrityman
11-14-2009, 03:47 PM
"Johnsongrass", "smutgrass", sounds like horticultural pornography.
ICT Bill
11-14-2009, 09:49 PM
"Johnsongrass", "smutgrass", sounds like horticultural pornography.
We just need to come up with some new varieties Pudgrass, flog'n the dolphin grass, largemember grass, nipplegrass
where was I going with this post.....???
Oh yeah, 9 acres
integrityman
11-14-2009, 10:36 PM
I think Johnson grass is the long wide bladed variety....:laugh::laugh::laugh:
Smallaxe
11-15-2009, 08:53 AM
From what I understand KBG is from Europe, but it has naturalized here in Wisco and is at the end of grassy field succession, b4 it turns into forest. It is the last grass standing - as it were.
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