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tlawn86
11-14-2009, 12:55 AM
WhAT chemicals should i use to spray the weeds in flower bed that wont kill flowers and the shrubs.

Marcos
11-14-2009, 03:11 AM
WhAT chemicals should i use to spray the weeds in flower bed that wont kill flowers and the shrubs.

If the weeds are monocots, use Fusilade II.
If the weeds are dicots, use Lontrel.
Read the labels..........carefully.
I don't recommend using spreader-sticker with either product for the results you're looking for.

And most importantly, PLEASE, if you don't have a pesticide license in the state you're working in...

GET ONE FIRST!

tlawn86
11-17-2009, 07:58 PM
If the weeds are monocots, use Fusilade II.
If the weeds are dicots, use Lontrel.
Read the labels..........carefully.
I don't recommend using spreader-sticker with either product for the results you're looking for.

And most importantly, PLEASE, if you don't have a pesticide license in the state you're working in...

GET ONE FIRST!

I do have herbicide license. is there any cheaper herbicide i could use. also what would be good to spray weeds around knock out roses and crepe myrtles.

greendoctor
11-17-2009, 08:15 PM
My preference for herbicides around woody shrubs is a mix of Ronstar and Scythe applied as a directed spray. Reward is also good. You will not catch me applying glyphosate around desirable plants unless it is in a way there is zero chance it will contact them.

hughmcjr
11-17-2009, 09:31 PM
My preference for herbicides around woody shrubs is a mix of Ronstar and Scythe applied as a directed spray. Reward is also good. You will not catch me applying glyphosate around desirable plants unless it is in a way there is zero chance it will contact them.

I spray around plants and flowers all the time right up to them and have no issues. I am sure there has been times I have contacted foliage and killed some leaves, but never a whole branch. As far as around bulbs, good luck trying to kill them. Bulbs have a lot of energy stored in them, so even Roundup, CRossbow, 2-4,d , which may hurt the flower, long term won't do a thing to the bulb.

I want to add I am not promoting spraying close to plants and flowers, but I have enough confidence and I am the only one who sprays and I keep the nozzle only a couple of inches from the ground, use ad buff and avoid spraying in wind. I can spray right up to lawn edges in beds within a 1/2 inch and get no kill off of bentgrass/rye.

greendoctor
11-17-2009, 09:39 PM
Different plants react to glyphosate in unique ways. The effect of glyphosate is also cumulative. I prefer to play it safe. Many of the warm season shrubs are particularly sensitive.

tlawn86
11-18-2009, 12:28 AM
My preference for herbicides around woody shrubs is a mix of Ronstar and Scythe applied as a directed spray. Reward is also good. You will not catch me applying glyphosate around desirable plants unless it is in a way there is zero chance it will contact them.

what mixure do you use with ronstar and scythe. also what type of ronstar.

greendoctor
11-18-2009, 12:35 AM
Label rate of Ronstar Flo is from 1.8-2.8 oz per 1000 sq ft. Yes Ronstar is more than a granular herbicide. When applied as a directed spray, it is an effective tool for weed control. Note that Ronstar is actually a contact herbicide. The way it works as a preemergent is to burn up shoots and leaves as they emerge through treated soil. Scythe is added at 2% of application volume. Sorry I do not have a per gallon mix rate for you. I use tip and wand combinations made to apply set volumes per 1000 sq ft.

ted putnam
11-18-2009, 12:48 AM
Different plants react to glyphosate in unique ways. The effect of glyphosate is also cumulative. I prefer to play it safe. Many of the warm season shrubs are particularly sensitive.

It's interesting that you brought that up. I was reading an article not to long ago that was saying that they have found spraying glyphose close to and maybe accidently on the base of trees is causing the bark to rupture(not necessarily at the point of contact), similar to freeze damage.We've always been told "As long as you keep it off green,leafy tissue." They're finding that is not so true...

greendoctor
11-18-2009, 01:09 AM
This is especially true when the bark of trees is not fully mature. Many people do not appreciate how absorbent a tree truck is. I do, because of how I utilize this property to kill unwanted trees. Even so called contact herbicides will damage a tree trunk.

tlawn86
12-10-2009, 08:33 PM
is there any spray i can use that will not harm bushes and or flower that is cheaper

Grasshopper49
12-10-2009, 08:52 PM
Before using any herbicide, identify the weed first. Is it a broadleaf weed, grassy weed, sedge...?? Only then can others help suggest a herbicide. Some of those answering your questions did try to qualify by stating it depends on whether it is a dicot or monocot.

If you can specifically the weeds(s) and where you plan to use the herbicide, you will get some very specific suggestions. For examply, I love Triplet for turf use, but it contains Dicamba, and no way would I use it near landscape beds or vegetable gardens.

Univ of NC web site is a great place to get more info on herbicides and the weeds they will treat. Lots of great university sites. You can hardly do a search for anything regarding landscaping without seeing results from UNC. And no, I did not go to school there. Just a great web site!

Marcos
12-10-2009, 09:14 PM
is there any spray i can use that will not harm bushes and or flower that is cheaper

Like I suggested over 3 weeks ago, use Lontrel as an over-the top, and don't add add'l sticker to it.

If you're looking for "cheap" don't be afraid of Lontrel because a 1 QT tip-n-pour should last a full season or longer for most small-mid sized landscapers.
(32 oz bottle / .5 oz per 1000 = 64,000 sq ft / bottle, at MAXIMUM spray rate.)

A Lontrel label 4U:
http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld2QB003.pdf

:waving:

greendoctor
12-12-2009, 02:08 AM
Not to mention, broadcast applications of Lontrel in landscape sites is not allowed. 0.5 oz in a gallon or two of water spot sprayed will treat a lot of weeds. I never think of how much a product will cost. I think first of how much area it will cover and probably more important than that, what it would cost to hand weed that same area. Then chemicals become very cheap indeed. I will take something that costs $100 an ounce if it means I will not spend hours hand weeding the area that ounce covers. BTW, Lontrel stays in the soil or compost long enough to hinder regrowth of weeds from seeds or roots. That is also why usage of this product is limited to spot treatment in landscapes and not at all in home lawns.