View Full Version : Red Threads here again!

05-15-2002, 08:57 PM
The weather has been perfect here in So CT & metro New York for our first bout of "homeowner visible" turf disease & it's what else? Red Thread. It started late last week & is really kicking out there right now. Guys who cut won't fertilize any time soon after all those clippings we had earlier, so some of those lawns will look pretty pathetic very soon.

Fungicides now will do nothing more than check the spread. The turf won't look right again until the entire canopy has been regrown. This could take a while even under good fertility.

Mowing 1/4"-1/2" higher would help to "hide" the blighted areas. But this is cosmetic cover for the picture window view.

Anyone else seeing it yet? If so, what are your plans?


05-15-2002, 08:58 PM
Saw it today but not real active, very limited. Plan on doing nothing as they weather is going to be a little warmer and drier for a few days. Just sit back and monitor.

05-15-2002, 09:04 PM
I'm not that brave with rain forecasted for Fri, Sat, Sun, & Mon.
Tomorrow AM before I hit the road. Touche+ either Banner Maxx or Eagle (whichever is closest to the front of the shelf) with my usual Primo & Iron.

Most of my own lawn is Perennial Ryegrass with some Bentgrass contamination in one area & you want to try & grow RT out of it! No way, not this year!

Good point about the drier weather but it's not gonna last long I don't think.


05-15-2002, 10:12 PM
The only treatment I've found effective is granular Bayleton. The systemic action seems to last longer than a liquid app. Some Co's like to pump up the nitro, which helps, but also makes the leaf spot go crazy.

05-15-2002, 10:31 PM
Red thread is running rampid here where I am! I would say that at least 20% of my accounts have breakouts of red thread. I applied "cavaleir' as suggested by my local lesco....we will see how that works! I have never seen red thread so bad before!

05-16-2002, 12:30 AM
Its just starting to show up here in Ohio.I'm also just going to watch and see how bad it gets.

05-16-2002, 08:35 AM
Same here with my lawns. Have about ten that have it bad. Early this Spring I applied Lesco's 19-3-6 w/dimension like normal. Still these lawns got Red Thread.

I have been thinking of putting out more nitrogen. What's best to apply now? I can get Lesco stuff the easiest.

Also, if that don't work then I have to spray some kind of fungicide. I am licensed to apply and have a 100 gallon Turbo Turf tank sprayer. No boom though.

What's best to put out in liquid? Banner, Heritage, Daconil?

According to calculations, if I use Daconil, it will take 213 gallons of mixed Daconil to treat 35,000 sq ft. Is this right. I think I have calculated it wrong. Label says 6 gallons treats 167 sq ft, using a 2 oz formula.

Like I said I would like to treat this first with nitrogen and see if conditions and treatment will change the course of this. Then I will spray if necessary.

05-16-2002, 11:30 AM

After 4 or 5 weeks, given enough rain, .75lbs/N would be about spent by now. That said:

Heritage won't control Dollar Spot which is the next most logical disease we may be seeing if it gets warm. And it will so....

The chlorothalinal (daconil, manicure, etc) would be a good choice for a preventive if you still have access to product labeled for residential lawn use. Check the label. But it won't do much for recently affected turf. At any rate, choose the proper rate per 1000 sq ft. Then add that quantity to at least 1 or 2 gallons of water & apply at that volume per 1000 sq ft. 35,000 sq ft treated at 2 gallons per 1000= 70 gallons of spray. Into that would go something like 3.75-7.5 lbs of Ultrex (@ 5-10 lbs per acre).

Personally, I'd combine a contact (lebeled for residential lawns) with a good local penetrant like Bayleton, Banner, or Eagle. They're all Steril Inhibitors. We sell a precombined material called ManHandle (yeah, I know, goofy name) that is Mancozeb & Eagle. Best of both worlds.


05-17-2002, 07:51 AM
Thanks Steve for your reply.

Would ManHandle do it all? If so, what does it cost and where would I get it?

I know you said you handle this product, are you a distributor?

Let me know and again, thank-you.

David Ott

05-18-2002, 06:52 PM
Red thread and Pink Patch can be managed very easity without fungicides. I would fertilize and get your lawns to an adequate N level. Both are low N diseases. Try a little urea mixed with some slow release stuff to get rid of it. There are many resistant cultivars of perrenial ryegrass as well (Regal, Legacy, Sherwood, Pinncale, Gettysburg, Loretta, and Derby Supreme).

In PA we have had alot of pink patch (little pink fuzz balls appear instead of threads) and we will just add fert instead of spraying.

05-18-2002, 07:50 PM

I am with LESCO. Manhandle may be the most broadly labeled fungicide available for residential turf. Twosome was, but since it contains Chlorothalanil (Daconil, Manicure, etc), it is losing it's residential use for good. Manicure controls 17 common turf diseases (including Pythium) plus very good control of Algea. This is a bigger deal on putting greens.

Here's the label.



I agree that most of the time a 50% slow release (or more) fert would be enough to grow Red Thread out. But I allready maintain my own place at extreme fertility levels (5-6lbs N per year) and have also wailed it with Primo. So there is little room for more N or any error in control strategy. If RT finds me now, I'm stuck with it for a while.
I rarely apply more than 3 fungicide apps in a year. And I'm pretty anal about keeping the turf perfect. Some years I'll combine Prodigy with Mancozeb during the summer to prevent Pythium. Some years I've sprayed for Pythium 3 times for a total of 5-6 fungies, but that was once in 8 years at this address. I know that lowering the summer N would aleviate the Pythium pressure (a little), but I don't want to. I have unusual expectations for the turf in front of my own home.

I don't recommend that my customers try to offer this kind of service to their customers. But some do. The "Gold Coast" big shot estates are sometimes on programs like this. Like a golf course, we have to do fairly regular walk-throughs to keep everyone happy. Indeed a few of the caretakers are or were GC Superintendents. Obviously, these folks pay dearly for services such as these. But they've got it.


John DiMartino
05-18-2002, 11:20 PM
id try to grow out the red thread,fungicides are $$ ,but if you do use them,id suggest a systemic,tank mixed with a contact,to get it knocked down,then keep it down for a while.In NYS you cant use chlorithalonil(sp) on residntial anymore.I tank mix it alongwiht balyeton 50,or banner,to keep my greens from getting sick on me.

05-19-2002, 11:26 AM
I thought you guys were nuts. How could Red Thread be out there this early with this weather. And then----- Saturday------- I saw it too! As Tremor said, I hate the thought of more N. It's growing 1/2 in a day now! AND I know dollar spot is just around the corner. Wonder why fungus never used to bother me as much as it does now? I sure do appericate this fourn!

05-19-2002, 05:17 PM
I've not seen red thread but I am seeing a lot of leaf spots in our area.


Rodney Anderson
05-20-2002, 08:22 PM
Want a cure all for red thread try milorganite mixed with 19-19-19
Appling fert at 3/4 rate and milorganite at 1 lb. rate apply three times a season when disease first appears and every six to eight week intervals. The bacteria produced by the organoc material will supress the red thread, doller spot, leaf spot and other root diseases. I really hold allot of faith in this method, try it and see it work. I charge $ 8.00 per M per this app.
Any organic material will work.

05-20-2002, 08:47 PM
Tremor, why the high N levels. Kblue should get no more than 4lb/yr and rye should get no more than 3.5lb/yr. You are really open you self up to alot of problems beside pythium and brown patch with high N levels, and I'm sure I'm telling you stuff that you allready know. I just think that turf can be well managed with much, much less fert than 6 lb/yr. Even putting greens can go with only 1 lb/yr. I would not suggest high N to many, as I see less fert, and slow release fert as becomming popular. Under the correct cultivation practices, grass can look great under low fert.

05-20-2002, 09:25 PM
Oops! I typo'd. I said Manicure when I was referring to Manhandle. None of the chlorothalinal containing fungicides control pythium. Manhandle controls 17 turf diseases plus algae.

You're right about those N levels. I rarely recommend a program like this for sane applicators/turf managers. I just like the ultra dense stand of turf it provides. But it all depends on the expectations. It occasionally causes me the need to spray for pythium. Once each in 2000 & 2001. Three times in '98 or '99, I'd have to check. But I can deal with that. I'm one of the few people who can claim that my career is also an enjoyable hobby. I can't say that about very many folks that I know.

Improved varieties of KBlue are pretty heavy feeders. I have never seen a mono-stand of Blue that impressed me at less than 4 lbs N. Some varieties don't perform until the 5lb+ appetite is met.

At the NTEP trials, data is collected from plots that are treated at 3lbs for low fertility to anywhere from 4-6lbs for the high fertility plots.


I deal with 2 professional sports facilities that are both on sand. Both exceed 7 lbs N per season. On one, we have gotten up to 8.5-9lbs in a single season, but that's really pushing it.

Rodney brings up a good point. I too will apply a natural organic fertilizer at the next fertilization here. I'll use 5-2-4 Sustane which is derived from poultry manure, @ 1.5 lbs N. Great stuff. All the natural organics seem to keep down the Dollar Spot & Brown Patch. Beleive it or not, aside from our first year here ('94?), I don't see Brown Patch here anymore even at these high fertility levels. Probably the organics in Round 2.

After that, it's 19-2-19 Novex for the rest of the year. This will be the third year for me with the Novex and I'm hooked. I've never worked with a product that is as slow, steady & predictable as this (aminoureaformaldehyde).

It's probably the fact that I stay in front of the diseases. I usually make the first contact fungicide at the second or third mowing (Touche this year). Then I'll do 2 more at three weeks apart (I just did the 2nd one). This year I made Manhandle by combining Mancozeb & Eagle. I'll figure out what to use when the third one is due next month. But that will probably be it unless we get into pythium weather.


05-21-2002, 03:55 PM
It's very early this year and there is a good amount of it. The bills for MAy are going to be huge with 5 weeks maintenance, aeration, broadleaf weed control, 2nd crabgrass control (split app), fertilizer, and now fungicide! Hooray for fungus!