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ArTurf
11-21-2009, 10:22 AM
I am thinking about applying iron in liquid form for next season. I have used iron in ferts in past but was thinking of using an organic fert this season which has no iron. I have never applied liquid iron so I am asking for suggestions and the good/bad. I treat a lot of centipede so it could really use the iron for better color.

RigglePLC
11-21-2009, 10:29 AM
Acid soils like centipede likes usually have no shortage of iron. But maybe if you used a high rate you will get some dark staining from the iron. Chelate is better. The cheap forms may give you a lot of rust stains on concrete and other objects you accidentally spray. My nozzles and tanks still have stains 10 years after using some inexpensive iron.

ArTurf
11-21-2009, 10:43 AM
If it matters I am using a Z-Spray to apply. Any issues I might see with clogging?

CHARLES CUE
11-21-2009, 03:04 PM
I would say it like every thing it all depends on the product your using
We use a chelated liquid iron that i have never had problems with no clogging or staining and yes you can spray it at low volume So find a good one and you wont have any problems
Charles Cue

RAlmaroad
11-21-2009, 03:14 PM
ArTurf:
Centipede has a natural "Apple Green" color. Iron will not change it's color that much. Check your soil pH. I've been battling high pH for some time. It's beginning to come down on the centipede turf and color is more consistent and even. I use a liquid but apply with at least 2 gallons of water per 1000sq. ft. How much can you put down with a PG. My product is "Feature"that is mixed with the liquid fertilize every month. Fertilize with chlorine based potassium is poison to centipede.

Kevin M.
11-21-2009, 03:32 PM
I have used Iron Chelates in the past and the stains are still on the tanks, hoses, and bed of trucks we used for Iron applications in the summer time. Its a great product but just a mess and I forgot to mention I stained my boots, socks and bottom of pants while I did this too. All in all its a messy product thats why I love granular plus the clients can see the granular on the ground and dont complain that you didnt do the round of fert on the lawn.

txgrassguy
11-22-2009, 01:17 PM
Once you understand how organic inputs effect microbial population levels in the soil you'll find out additional synthetic iron inputs won't be necessary.
If you are truly looking for a way to increase the green color of the host turfrass try using activated bio-sludge fertilizer in it's granular form such as Milorginite.
Coupled with an aggressive hollow core aerification program and bagging of the cores and clippings to promote sufficient gaseous exchange in the soil additional inputs of iron won't be necessary.
One point though, utilizing non synthetics takes time for the benefits to accumulate resulting in an increased turf stand - unless you educate your customers accordingly they may squawk at the increased costs and lack of immediate appearance.
Timing is much more important with organics than synthetics and unfortunately most customers want a turf stand green right now rather than building a sustainable organic program which may take two growing seasons for the turf to reflect your efforts.

txgrassguy
11-22-2009, 01:22 PM
If you are set upon using a synthetic iron, particularly in a limited volume application like a Z spray, agitation becomes a very real concern. The small nozzle orifices and potential for clogging of spray nozzles is a problem with a limited volume applicator.
Additionally, iron inputs on C4 turf stands has a transitory effect unlike what occurs on C3 turfgrass.