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bobp
05-18-2002, 12:54 AM
Hi folks,

Anyone out there maintaining an old friction clutch chain drive Bobcat? My 610 was made around 1970. Wisconsin VH4D gas engine (4 cyl, 100 ci, about 30 hp), operating weight about 4000 lbs and lift capacity about 2000 lbs.

I would like to compare notes with anyone else nursing one along - dealing with the oil bath clutches, the varispeed sheave speed control, all the odd leaks... and new and used parts sources...

It is a neat machine but it was not designed to be easy to work on.

It is my general pile mover and all-terrain forklift, and has done some digging using the lift forks to rip. It has the 5' construction bucket, and I made my own bob-tach frame to fit a set of 48" forks.

Bob

bobcatsyd
05-11-2004, 10:04 AM
I have a Bobcat 610 with a Wisconcin gas engine. Do you know anywhere I can buy attachments. The bob-tach is no longer the universal size and I can't even rent attachments. This has been a great machine. I just put a new starter and alternator in it. It runs great and the hydraulics are like new.

bobp
05-14-2004, 12:34 AM
The 610's bob-tach looks different but are you really sure it doesn't fit the current generation of attachments?

There are a bunch of outfits that sell attachments for modern skid steers, one is:

http://www.skidsteersolutions.com/

Maybe they can help - either with information or with attachments to fit the 610.

Bob

bobcatsyd
05-14-2004, 10:35 AM
Thanks for the info.

dunringill
10-06-2005, 09:35 AM
My 610 has the vh4d. It has some problems.

I have to jiggle the choke for about 5 minutes to keep it running when it first cranks, once it gets warm it will run fine.

I can't use the high gear, every time I try the pulley jumps off.

It was used on a chicken farm for pushing poop. So the hydraulics were rarely used and are in great shape.

I'm thinking it may be sucking air in somewhere causing the rough cold idle any ideas or pointers?

I use it for my own yard work only, so it's handy to have around. It's amazing though how big of a tree you can pushover with the thing.

bobp
10-06-2005, 12:27 PM
Hi,

I changed the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter and air filter some years ago, that improved starting and running. The plug threads were galled (aluminum head) on the front half so I have not pulled them to check condition since, as they will probably strip coming out That should be a minor helicoil job assuming the head comes off OK.

Hi, I don't know about the choke or carb, have literally never touched them, or the distributor, or governor, in the 12 years owning the machine. Your starting problem may just be a minor carb adjustment, a screw could have worked its way closed.

Needing choke is also a sign of restricted fuel flow, i.e. fuel filter, or the carb needing a solvent cleaning.

If your machine gets wet where it is stored, the condition of the plug wires and distributor cap will affect starting.

About sucking air, mine developed a crack in the intake manifold, this engine has a single casting that is a combined intake & exhaust manifold. An intake leak on one bank or cylinder can overhead and burn the valves due to the lean condition. I wire brushed the crack and packed in "JB Weld" which has held so far. I did buy a replacement manifold casting on ebay and will install it someday.

Can you be more specific about the belt jumping off? I can't see how it could actually come off the pulleys. I don't know what the effect of a worn, too short or too long belt would be.

This site is pretty cool, I never check it but it sends email when someone replies to an old thread.

Bob

dunringill
06-09-2006, 09:46 AM
As i mentioned, the pulley comes off. Not the belt. The tapered shaft has a keayway and the pulley just sits on there. Pressed on somewhat. But everytime I use the high gear, the pulley comes off of the shaft. Leaving me to put in a new key and tapping the pulley back on.

northwar
12-10-2006, 06:33 PM
I have a great running bobcat 610 that has a direct attach to cylinder tie rods bucket on it and I would like to get a used working bob-tach so I can get a fork lift attachment for it. I don't know where to start looking and could sure use a little help. My 610 drives very slow also which is not a big problem for me but it have read that some of the 610's ( if not all of them ) have a high gear. If any one has some insight on that, that would be great too.

Fhore
12-29-2006, 12:05 AM
What does the hande on the left do about knee high? I bought a snowblower but I am unable to use it, no enough pressure?

northwar
12-31-2006, 09:16 PM
The handle to the left of your left knee is the speed adjustment. With the 610 running push the handle forward and it will tighten the drive belt up which in turn speeds up the drive pump. Just be careful because take off can be very fast and the front two wheels might come off the ground. Then pull back on the handle and it will slow down ( loosing the drive belt). Now as far as the hydraulic preasure is concerned, I am not sure but will try to find out for you. It dose seem to me that the hydraulic preasure would increase with the hydro system also with that same handle (maybe). I will reply in a couple days. Good luck Fhore.

Fhore
01-01-2007, 04:02 AM
When I engage the handle the machine bogs down and wants to die? I have a 300 hour old rebuild on the engine...and after the machine has warmed up if I shut it down I have to wait 15 minutes to restart. I might just need a new machine.

ksss
01-01-2007, 03:47 PM
I would invest in a newer machine. I had a 600 (I think it was) a long time ago. If you like turning a wrench then they can be worth your time. Other than that they are not powerful enough to run any hyd. attachments and are not much better with a bucket. I don't know where you are in Alaska but whatever dealer you have closest to you is what brand I would buy.

jimhenry
10-21-2008, 07:26 PM
I have done considerable amount of work on my 610 BobCat including changing out the axles that run through the hydraulic oil reservoir tanks on both sides. I put new jack shafts and new belt on the driven end of the drive assembly. I am now working on removing the engine because it started to clatter and the oil light came on. I believe the oil pump internal or the end gears that drive it may be bad. Last winter I replaced the governor that broke earlier in the summer but too lazy to fix. This caused more trouble as the governor parts fell down in the gear assembly jamming the shaft that drives the distributor and the hydraulic oil pump and broke the shaft. The governor parts also knocked some teeth off another gear that drives this shaft and that may be what I am up against this time around. I need from someone is a variable speed sheave pulley that is attached to the VH4D engine crankshaft. I broke mine trying to remove it.

SuperDuty335
10-21-2008, 09:01 PM
I have a 610 with a great running, super dependable Wisconsin engine. It is fairly impressive for a small, old machine. I bought it in boxes and crates and put it all back together with the addition of new head gaskets, carburetor,all new hydraulic lines, friction clutches, starter and distributor. Any Bobcat dealer can get parts for it.

jimhenry
10-22-2008, 09:55 AM
I read all the hits on this site and I like mine too but they are hard to work on for limited space but that's what makes them so compact and easy to work with. I didn't quite understand what one fellow said about his belt coming off. I think if that's happening he may have the front pulley worn to a point that it won't reduce in diameter when he changes the speed. Mine did this but it broke the belt. By looking at the three bolts that hold the spring on the driven pulley I saw the holes were worn oblong and that had to be replace. That and another new belt and jack shafts while I was at it and I was back in business. Now I need the drive end variable speed pulley that is attached to the motor as I broke mine trying to get it off.

Gawfur
11-03-2008, 09:01 PM
I have a 610 sitting in my yard doing nothing. I bought it about 4 years ago to move wood around my yard. Unfortunately I live on steep muddy land and the 610 just cant handle what I throw at it. I blew the swivel coupling for the varial speed drive, but I have since rebuilt that. I seems to want to stall when attempting to move in reverse. I need to send this machine down the road, since it's being replaced with a Oliver OC3. I have considered parting this thing out, but don't want a lump of complete useless scrap lying around. If anyone out there is in Massachusetts or the surrounding area and looking for a parts or project 610 Give me a shout.

jimhenry
11-03-2008, 09:52 PM
I have pulled my engine out because it was making a funny noise and the oil light came on. After engine disassembly I found the gears on the flywheel end had broke and one of the teeth caused a chain reaction to all the other gears. The gear driving the oil pump lost all of it's teeth and that was the noise I heard prior to the oil light coming on. I am doing a complete overhaul and other than the gears the rest of the engine looks pretty clean. I bought the variable speed sheave from BobCat it cost $315 and the governor gear cost $89 and the gear on the end of the crank another $89. The over haul gasket set with rings and bearing is $169 so altogether it is still cheaper than the $3000 BobCat wanted.

tallrick
11-05-2008, 01:06 AM
I have been letting my 610 sit waiting for my restoration. This year I have gotten an 843 project and this summer an 863 Bobcat. The 843 brings back memories of the summer job I had running one, and it just blows away the old M610. However, it's heavier and additional power can decimate the lawn and even some backyard pavement. The 610 is also a bit quieter as there is no noisy hydrostatic drive and no Diesel fumes. For home use I have seen many M600 and M610 Bobcats in use. You do get more power with its replacement, the 743. Oddly enough the 700 series seem harder to find than the 800 series which few homeowners seem to prefer. I have become more and more attached to the bigger machines, and will probably use the M610 only for mulching the raised beds. The 843 broke the concrete border just driving over it.

SuperDuty335
11-05-2008, 06:33 PM
I have a 610 sitting in my yard doing nothing. I bought it about 4 years ago to move wood around my yard. Unfortunately I live on steep muddy land and the 610 just cant handle what I throw at it. I blew the swivel coupling for the varial speed drive, but I have since rebuilt that. I seems to want to stall when attempting to move in reverse. I need to send this machine down the road, since it's being replaced with a Oliver OC3. I have considered parting this thing out, but don't want a lump of complete useless scrap lying around. If anyone out there is in Massachusetts or the surrounding area and looking for a parts or project 610 Give me a shout.

Figure out a way to get it to NC and I'm interested.

gymsbyjo
11-13-2008, 10:13 PM
I'm interested in parts. Looking for a drivers cage and some other stuff. I have a 500 but I think yours would fit. Let me know. gymsbyjo@nycap.rr.com some pictures of the machine if you have some.

Gawfur
11-14-2008, 09:52 AM
check out this site. Yesterday Tractors. they have a hauling schedule a lot of guys will post if they have an empty load going out or back. Someone there might be going from MA south thru NC and could haul it
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/haulquery.pl

As for the question about cage. It's a pretty simple set up just some role bars. No side curtains or anything. This is pretty much how I got it. The seat was in terrible shape when I got it and I took it out to do some repairs. it's not worth putting back in so right now it's seat less. I have the original Pan here somewhere

I'll see what I can do about pictures soon. If I can get home today before the sun goes down I'll get to that.

KrayzKajun
11-14-2008, 10:00 AM
I found a 610 on craigslist for $3500. i think i mite scoop it up!

GardenPrairie610
11-14-2008, 11:13 AM
I have a 610 with a left rear axle bearing that leaks A LOT! I have the shop manual and I am preparing to replace the bearing, anyone do this before and have any tips, things to avoid? etc. etc. etc.

SuperDuty335
11-14-2008, 12:18 PM
As soon as I finish up my quick-attach 3 point lift system I'll post a few photos of the 610. The 3 point system consists of a quick release adapter designed for a tractor with quick attach points welded for the Bobcat so I can use 3 point tractor implements. :cool:

KrayzKajun
11-14-2008, 12:26 PM
As soon as I finish up my quick-attach 3 point lift system I'll post a few photos of the 610. The 3 point system consists of a quick release adapter designed for a tractor with quick attach points welded for the Bobcat so I can use 3 point tractor implements. :cool:

Very cool!!

jimhenry
12-04-2008, 12:17 PM
Hi folks,

Anyone out there maintaining an old friction clutch chain drive Bobcat? My 610 was made around 1970. Wisconsin VH4D gas engine (4 cyl, 100 ci, about 30 hp), operating weight about 4000 lbs and lift capacity about 2000 lbs.

I would like to compare notes with anyone else nursing one along - dealing with the oil bath clutches, the varispeed sheave speed control, all the odd leaks... and new and used parts sources...

It is a neat machine but it was not designed to be easy to work on.

It is my general pile mover and all-terrain forklift, and has done some digging using the lift forks to rip. It has the 5' construction bucket, and I made my own bob-tach frame to fit a set of 48" forks.

Bob

Hi Bob, I just finished overhauling my wisconsin engine and have done considerable amount of work on my 610. I am checking out my hydraulics before I put the engine back in as it is much easier to work on now with some room to see where leaks are coming from. I broke my variable speed sheave when I had to remove it to get the engine out and a new one cost me $315 at the dealer in St Cloud, MN. The clutches are a wet clutch and are oiled through a manifold under the seat that looks like a octagon pipe with four lines going to the clutches. This is how the hydraulic oil gets back into the reservoir. My hydraulics has always been loud like a high frequency squeal and I am trying to find out if something is a rye before the engine goes back in. I put a new hydraulic filter in and checked the release valve but don't know really what I am looking for but so far no smoking gun. My variable speed sheave leaked oil one time where the hydraulic line hooks up. Inside the sheave there is a piston with an o-ring and that started leaking and gave a real fine mist of oil all around that side of the BobCat. I put a new piston in there and took care of the problem. I am going to check the oil pressure going to that sheave when I get the engine back in as it may be set to high. There is an allen wrench adjustment under the seat on the control valve that can be turned in or out to set the time for full sheave travel. The manual says it should go from low speed to high in no faster than four seconds and mines closes the sheave in less than two seconds, maybe that's why my o-ring blew but I fixed it two years ago and it still does not leak. I am replacing the seals in one of the tilt cylinders today. I also have oil leaking from the inside front axle seals but have to drain the hydraulic tanks to change those and will do that at some other date. Hope all this helps everyone with a 610 BobCat and the Wisconsin VH4D 30 hp engine.
One other foot note to my experiences: The BobCat dealer advised me to not even try to overhaul this engine as two other fellows had them install the engine in their Cats after they overhauled them themselves and one blew after running three minutes and the other after 12 minutes. I worried about my overhaul so put it on the bench and ran it for an hour before I got to this point I'm at today. What I found out in my overhaul was that the oil system has a gear driven pump that pumps up to the governor and that oil goes down and lubricates the gears on the flywheel end of the motor. The oil also goes to a pipe gallery with four nozzles that are aimed at the rod journals which I removed and cleaned with a welding tip cleaner. They are about .067" and can be cleaned from outside the block by removing four pipe plugs behind the hydraulic pump and the distributor and also the 90 deg elbow going to the governor. But the problem I see that anyone could have easily done is with the oil filter. This is critical!!! The engine was designed to run without a filter and the one BobCat uses has a very small oil hole in the center. If someone put a filter from Kmart or somewhere that fit onto the filter housing they will blow the engine. The filter is designed to have back pressure or it will starve the rest of the engine for oil and the results will be a blown engine. So if you are overhauling your own engine use only the right oil filter.
Jim

Matlock Lawncare
01-04-2009, 06:12 PM
I am really interested to see the attachment you made for your 610, I just traded an old lawn truck that had over 280,000 miles on it and was on its last leg for a 610. The guy told me he thought it was locked up and didnt know much about it. So while he went inside to look for some spare parts that he thought had I went and pulled the plugs and turned the engine over by hand. He comes out with a brand new drive belt and brand new starter. I get it to the shop and my brother in law and I put in the starter and cleaned the plugs then ran the fuel line to a fresh container of gas and the darn thing started and is running like a dream. Now I am going to buy new hydro seal kits for the cylinders on Monday because one is leaking pretty bad and I figure the others aren't leaking much but might as well. So when I seen your post I thought " that is exactly what I need for my machine" Any other advise on the machine would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tim

jimhenry
01-04-2009, 09:10 PM
I just finished putting the engine back into my 610 BobCat. It runs great! I had front axle leaks so drained the hydraulic oil and remove the large axle nut and took out the spacer that rides inside the oil seal and found it to have grooves where the seal rides. New ones cost about $50 each. I took the old ones to a machine shop and had them machine them down to the original size and then reversed them and reinstalled with new seals. Worked great and only cost me a meal to a buddy.

SuperDuty335
01-05-2009, 12:42 AM
I'll get the 3 point hitch photo in a day or two. I've got a busy day tomorrow. Here's a photo of my 610:
130704

tallrick
01-05-2009, 01:39 AM
It is amazing how many M-600 series machines are still in use. I am reluctant to get rid of mine, even though it's apart and has not been used in a while. A friend is fixing up a 720 bobcat which was the first hydrostatic machine. As long as you do not invest a fortune in one, an old Melroe with the wisconsin engine can be a great home machine. His front axle leaks so I will have to do that job again....UGH. When I finish my m-610 restoration I hope to put back the old Melroe Bobcat decals but even the newer bobcat head design looks good on that old machine. I need to get that newer style for my 843 which does not say bobcat yet.

SuperDuty335
01-07-2009, 10:14 PM
Here's my latest creation131012

131013

TrinityELC
01-08-2009, 01:19 PM
I live in Mass, can i take a look at it?

SuperDuty335
01-08-2009, 08:50 PM
You talkin' to me?

dumans24
01-24-2009, 12:02 AM
Hey guys, I found a 610 that's been sitting for several years. Its mine if I can get it off my friend's farm. It was there when he bought the place ... he's no help either. Engine cranks but doesn't turnover, tires were flat, I have those fixed and back on. I know NOTHING about these things, but I'm a sucker for free stuff with engines. So here's my dumb question ... it seems to be stuck in gear - can't get it to roll to get it on a trailer - what do I have to do to get it in neutral so I can roll it? Can't find an operators manual. I'll have a lot of work to do later, and lots of questions, but for right now, can someone give me the basics on controls? ... I've tried everything I can thing of, so that means I'm overlooking something simple. Thanks!

jimhenry
01-24-2009, 11:26 AM
I have a 610 and it doesn't have any gears to take it out of. It has a hydraulic drive pulley like a snow mobile would have only theirs are regulated by speed of the engine not by the hydraulics. There are clutches inside both sides of the hydraulic tank that are controlled by the two steering levers that you would hang onto while driving it. They have to be in the center for the clutch to be free. Then you should be able to push it as there are no brakes on the 610 normally. You can tell if this on has brakes by looking under the floor board at the two front axles. If there is a drum on the mounts it has brakes and they could be froze up. If not and it still doesn't roll the clutches could be froze and maybe by just jerking it with a pick up would loosen it up enough to move. Just make sure the levers are in the middle position of their travel.
Good luck.
Jim

Matlock Lawncare
01-24-2009, 08:46 PM
Just to add a little to Jimhenry, If you do all of that and it still doesnt move you can take off the panels on each side( the panels have like 15 nuts) and take off the 2 large nuts on the sides first. Then take out the cotter pins and back off the castle nuts and the clutch plates might be stuck a little. Just tap on those a few times to break them loose. Dont back the castle nut off much at all but just enough for the clutch plates to break loose. Dont mess with the wires that are connecting the three bolts just tap the plates a couple of times and it should free it up. Worst case senario is the wheel axle bearings are froze up but I doubt it. I just got done today putting a new set of seals and bearings in the rearend. Not FUN... hope this helps

jamman
05-07-2009, 05:14 AM
I have what i think is a early 610 but the clutches are worn out to the point it wont steer. Can any one help me with locating new plates. I am in New Zealand and the local agent is having trouble sorting out bits for a machine of this age.
thanks John.

Matlock Lawncare
05-08-2009, 04:53 PM
Here is a number here in Missouri, 636-240-9020 these guys figured my whole machine out. Give them a call it will be worth you while. Tim

Paw1116
05-29-2009, 10:27 PM
I have an old M444 Bobcat that I have been nursing along. I have just rebuilt the onan engine and it now runs great. It has the variable speed hydraulic clutch(sheave) which seems to be engaging and releasing fine when moving the speed control. The front belt pulley(clutch) located on the jackshaft does not seem to open up (reduce size) when the belt tension increases. I have backed the sheave tension nuts all the way out. How far should that jackshaft clutch open up when the tension is increased? The speed of the machine is very slow when operating.
Thanks
Pat

jimhenry
05-30-2009, 11:55 AM
I broke my belt when mine didn't open. I found that there is a grease fitting that never gets grease because it's too hard to reach. The three holes become elongated and the pulley no longer slides out on the bolts like it's suppose too. I ended up replacing the entire sheave and then I have the nuts backed out almost all the way because of the stronger spring. If you look at the holes where the three bolts come through it is pretty obvious if they are worn. Good luck as it is a pretty big job changing this pulley out.

jd340
06-17-2009, 06:58 PM
My father has had a 610 for about 20 years now and it has done various work from mixing fertilizer through to landscaping etc etc. We are after a drive belt for it. Can anyone recommend a Company which could supply this, preferable a Company with email and who will ship internationally as we live in New Zealand.
Our 610 has been re-powered with a 2 cylinder air cooled VM diesel motor, which are made I believe in Italy. The late 90's Jeep Cherokee's also run a VM diesel (here in New Zealand anyway) and they were a bit of a disaster.
We can only hope whoever fitted the VM kept the same length drive belt.
There has been talk on this site about attachments for these early 610, my father wanted to fit forks to his so got a local engineering shop to make a quick release frame (using the bucket as a pattern) and then we fitted forks to that. Worked out very well. Any help for a supplier of parts would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Johnny.

donnyjr
07-20-2009, 11:09 AM
does anyone know where i can get used 7" rims for a 1971 610
Thanks Donny

donnyjr
07-20-2009, 11:48 AM
Hi, i live in mass do you still have the 610
i am looking for some 7" rims or maybe the whole machine
Thanks Donny

CharlieNH
08-09-2009, 01:20 PM
There's a parts machine on NH craigslist (August 2009) that might be of interest to you. Near Nashua.


Hi, i live in mass do you still have the 610
i am looking for some 7" rims or maybe the whole machine
Thanks Donny

nsxbill
08-12-2009, 08:19 PM
Here's my latest creation131012

131013
I have just acquired a M610 Bocat for use at home, and got a great deal on Bobcat fork lift attachment ($200) that is set-up to work with newer models. What is the attachment plate you have on your Bobcat? Is this a Tach-All from ATI?

Any recommendations? I have a couple of buckets the skid steer came with, and really have no investment in trying to get more, but would like to adapt the current 4 point pin hook-up to use Bob-Tach like attachments when I want to use the newer model compatible attachment.

jimhenry
08-17-2009, 11:03 AM
You can buy a backing plate that will fit all BobCats and any one of the Dealers. They cost about $125. I welded a plate to mine and then added my forks to the heavy welded plates and they work fine and are quick on and off.

nsxbill
08-17-2009, 11:13 AM
Thanks, Jim

I ran into a man up near Lake Tahoe that has a couple of bobcats, and he makes all of his own custom buckets. He apparently is quite busy during the winter clearing the roads for neighbors, etc. From his pile of extra parts, I got a newer model BobTach piece he is going to modify to bolt to the pins on my 610. That will allow me to still use my other two buckets, and have the capability to use the forklift too. I just picked up the 610 for work around the house, and it is such a pleasure to use, will ultimately start looking for an 800 series. In California, contractors will no longer be able to use the 800 series Bobcats soon due to emissions standards limitations, and that should put some on the market pretty reasonably priced.

I thought about the plates, but if I decide to keep the 610 will probably consider plates for my old buckets, and just leave the BobTach adaptor on the Skidsteer all the time.

Have you or anyone else seen a salvage 610? I need a cover for the hose behind the right rear wheel.

Bill
Cameron Park, CA

jimhenry
08-17-2009, 11:27 AM
Hi Bill, are you talking about the screen cover that bolts onto the flywheel? If you are I have one from an engine I parted out to overhaul mine Wisconsin engine.

vcvtrading
08-21-2009, 07:16 PM
I just purchased a Bobcat 610 for $1800.00. A very good deal I think considering it runs and operates. I have an acre behind my house (flat land, undergrowth) I needed to clean out. I brought it home and worked it for about an hour without any major issues. The only big issue is the steering. I have to push and pull real hard on the handles to make it turn. Forward and reverse is not as hard. Do you think adjusting the clutches will help? And should I purchase the special wrench to get the clutch adjustment caps off? I do not have anything that big. I want to service it before I run it again (oil and filter). I can not find the oil filter on the Wisconsin 30hp motor. I have ordered a service manual for it. And I can not find the hydro reservoir... is all the fluid contained in the clutch wells? If so, I assume I pull the plugs out of the sides and fill until fluid runs - kind of like a lower unit on a boat? The Wisconsin motor runs awesome! I love to hear it run. Someone fabricated a straight pipe exhaust system on it. Has a pipe that runs straight off the manifold and turns up in the air, up to cap level. Should the Wis motor have any back pressure? It so, it is not getting any the way it is set up. Thanks in advance for the responses I get. I will try and post pictures later. Shane.

vcvtrading
08-21-2009, 07:28 PM
Hey folks... I forgot to ask (from my post above). The 610 has a middle petal... what is it for? I could not tell. I pressed it, it made the engine idle up a bit. I thought maybe it was for running attachments, however I do not think my machine has the attachments option. I could not find any external hydro outlets. Thanks, Shane.

jimhenry
08-24-2009, 09:08 PM
The middle peddle is for the two hydraulic lines that come to the front and will run for example an auger. It should be left in the middle position so no fluid is going through them. As far as turning the cat you do not need a special wrench just use a big pipe wrench to get the caps off and go from there. If tightening them doesn't do the job new clutches may be needed.
Jim

vcvtrading
08-24-2009, 09:33 PM
Thanks for he reply Jim! I used an oil filter wrench (ruined the wrench, but it worked). I tightened the clutches. The 615 turns with ease now. I have very little movement in the clutches now and the machine jumps a little when I first crank it, but only when I first crank it, after it is running, it does not creep or jump. Do you think I might have the clutches a little too tight? I am waiting on my service manual to get here and then I am going to service it (oil, filter). I have heard of people running top oil (gas mix) in the Wisconsin motor. Have you heard on this? Thanks, Shane.

jimhenry
08-25-2009, 11:12 AM
Yes you have the clutches a little too tight. I use straight 30 weight oil in the engine and get used transmission oil for the hydraulics from a near by jiffy lube. It is free and if I lose a little it's not a big deal. It sounds like you got a decent machine. I made a set of forks for mine 610 and they are used more than anything else I could put on there.
Jim

jimhenry
08-25-2009, 11:15 AM
Shane I wanted to add one more thing on your clutches. They are the only thing on my BobCat that I have not worked on. I have movement on my turning arms of about 10 to 12 inches. the manual does tell you how to change them out and adjustments.
Jim

vcvtrading
08-25-2009, 06:02 PM
Thanks again for the reply Jim. I have very little movement in my steering arms. My manual came in today, it says I should have about 3" of play on properly adjusted clutches. Also, I talked to a guy at my local bobcat dealer who told me I should have 6 to 7 inches of play. I think I will adjust them out to about 3 to 4", and/or where my machine does not jump at start up. I am going to service it this weekend. The dealer also told me.. "the 610's were one of the toughest machines made". He told me he knew of a 610 with over 10,000 hours! My machine has 4260 hours and runs great! Thanks, Shane.

steve911
09-26-2009, 03:15 PM
Not to Hijack the thread too badly, but does anyone have a cage for 600 or 6110 bobcat for sale?

Even a cage for an old M444 or M500 will fit too.

thanks
Steve Anders

GardenPrairie610
10-12-2009, 07:28 PM
HELP. My 610's wiring harness is GONE. Anyone have the wiring diagram for a delco/remy alternator? It looks as if it's internally regulated but there's an external regulator? (F-2-3-4) This regulator in mounted close to the alternator. The spade blades on my delco are aligned like this ---> -- --

My understanding is that externally regulated delcos spade connectors are like this ---> I I

help............

pondfishr
10-14-2009, 12:15 AM
Here is the best Bobcat repair forum on the net.

http://www.skidsteerforum.com

The members are eager to help anyone who takes the time to join and post. I can't say enough good things about them. One in particular is Tazza an Aussie from down under. I venture to say he has forgotten more than most Bobcat mechanics know.

CharlieNH
11-08-2009, 07:41 PM
Could you or anyone help on this: I just put 3 new seals in on my rotoswivel unit and it still leaks out the center of the sheave. The ones I replaces were the big O-rings and the internal Oring in the copper gland. I didn't replace the oil seal on the front of that gland becasue it's advertised as being used as a wiper. Mine was facing outward; is that correct? Is there any other seal that could be the source of my leak? What about the small one near the end of the roto-seal itself? The whole job weas really tough, as the gland did not want to come out or go back in. Any hints as I take it apart a second time? Thanks.



I have a 610 sitting in my yard doing nothing. I bought it about 4 years ago to move wood around my yard. Unfortunately I live on steep muddy land and the 610 just cant handle what I throw at it. I blew the swivel coupling for the varial speed drive, but I have since rebuilt that. I seems to want to stall when attempting to move in reverse. I need to send this machine down the road, since it's being replaced with a Oliver OC3. I have considered parting this thing out, but don't want a lump of complete useless scrap lying around. If anyone out there is in Massachusetts or the surrounding area and looking for a parts or project 610 Give me a shout.

CharlieNH
11-14-2009, 06:12 PM
I've been completely into the rotoswivel and piston a second time and am getting good at it, and I'm sure I didnt' damage the O-rings upon installation. I also got a new piston (gland). However I still have a leak out between the halves of the sheave, and I'm beginning to think that when I put in my new hydraulic pump, I overpressured the hub of the fixed sheave and possibly caused a hairline crack. (I had the Allen bolt in the valve cranked way in from when I had a very weak pump.) That would explain why the splines between the sheave hubs look flushed out when I pull the outer one off. Any thoughts on this? I can't see a crack. Does anyone have a parts machine that I could get a new fixed sheave off of? I'd like to try this as a fix, but a new one is too expensive for an experiment. I'm in Mass.

scotthenry
02-23-2010, 11:31 AM
Jim or anyone who can help.
I have an early 70's model 610 that the drive belt has started to fall apart and needs replaced. I have purchased a new one but am unsure were to start on replacing it. Is this a simple task or something for an experienced mechanic. Can anyone help.
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CharlieNH
02-23-2010, 11:51 AM
The most important thing is to understand why the belt is deteriorating. A common reason is that the bushings for the driven sheave are wearing due to lack of regular greasing on that little zerk you see through the spring on the front shaft. Then the sheave wobbles and wears away the belt from the edges. You want to replace those bushings if they are worn. If they are ok, you take off the shaft coupler on that front shaft and work the new belt in there. I would also take off the rear sheave to make it easier to get the new belt on, but there are ways to work it around without doing more than disconnecting the hydraulic hose to that rear sheave.

calwhite
03-09-2010, 08:47 PM
I let a friend of mine borrow my little machine and while he had it, the drive flipped, shredded and broke. In hindsight, there is a grease nipple on the inside of this pulley that got overlooked and probably kept this pulley from working properly. We towed it 200 feet up the street to another friend's driveway where it sat for a month, while I waited for a new belt. The guy who offered to fix it, choose to tow it a couple of miles up the road to his garage. The machine did not want to move and, I believe, as we tugged on it backwards with a ton truck, we caused this damage, straining the shaft out of line. Once we got it out on the street an towed it forward, we heard the pulley shatter. I assume the shaft was out of line and the pulley was jammed against something. Moving the machine forward finished it off. I really don't want it to end this way. I know someone out there has a little machine like this scrapped, I just have to find it. I paid $3900 for it. It was completely refurbished with new paint and new tires. I have been using it around my new home construction and I have some riverside property where I can eventually use it......I need this driven pulley.....Or sell the whole thing

CharlieNH
03-15-2010, 08:34 AM
You should be able to find this pulley. I've seen quite a few parts machines out there. Better check the shaft and sprockets too so you know exactly what you need. So I would get it apart ASAP to evaluate the situation. Put in new bushings in any replacement sheave.

calwhite
03-15-2010, 11:46 AM
Hello CharlieNH,

I appreciate the comments, and I agree, I should be able to find these parts.
That's what I am doing on this site:wall. If, in fact, you have seen lots of parts machines out there, I would sure appreciate a tip on where and how to contact the owners. I am in Newfoundland, Canada, and the other two like mine that I know of here, are still running and not for sale or parting out.

Thanks

CharlieNH
03-15-2010, 12:00 PM
Here is what I have done from time to time: search all cragislists for bobcat 610 (you can do it at this link: http://www.searchallcraigs.com/ ) Also, google skid steer salvage or used bobcat parts. Be sure to try Wengers in PA, and also just get a list of salvage yards (via google) and start calling. It's hit or miss. I see a guy on craigslist on cape cod is looking for a 610 parts machine; maybe you can cooperate with him.

BugWhisperer
03-19-2010, 12:49 PM
Hi Everyone, I'm SO glad I found this forum. My partner got a great deal
on a 610. His great deals and great ideas only guarantee one thing. My life
gets more complicated. ;)

We got it running rough and it wouldn't move. We got a new hydraulic pump
with it and a new belt. My problem is getting the new belt on. I bought a
service manual. (So if anyone needs to know anything out of it let me know)

I split the shaft. Removed line from rear sheave and removed the half sheave like it says to do. Installed new belt. Put split shaft back together. Put belt overrear sheave shaft. The manual says to put the machine at "half variable" which i take to mean half speed position. How do I get the machine in half variable?

The problem is that I cannot get the half sheave back on the shaft as the belt has no pull room left and the sheave just butts up against the belt and i cannot get the belt higher.

The belt rides up on the sheave on the split shaft at the top. I'm told that I need to get them separated out more so the belt can sit down in and give me the needed slack for the back one. How do I do that??

I wish I'd gotten in here before and seen the post about not having to remove that rear sheave half to get the belt on. I would sure have liked to know how to get around that. But I might have still ended up with the problem i have now.

Also, no service has been done on this poor thing in AGES. The plugs look and feel like they have been in there since it was made. Any ideas on cracking them plugs loose without ending up with a new nightmare to deal with? Warm engine?

When I took out the oil drain plug the first thing that hit my hand was water and the rest of it was just gray sludge. Still has the old style canister oil filter with outside threads. I ordered a new base for it as the bobcat guy say's they can't get those filters anymore.

I'd really like to get this machine running good and look after it. There is a lot of other stuff on this one that's been "mcgivered" big time.

Thanks!
Glen

CharlieNH
03-19-2010, 01:00 PM
You're just working against the spring pressure. So you would do best to combine tensioning the belt somehow with either compressing the spring or prying on the part where the belt is not in contact. Once you make some headway, it will be easier as you can work on top of the belt itself to force it in further. Then you want to block it in the position with a pice of wood, preferably wedged in under the cross bracket so it doesn't pop out while you install the rear half sheave.

BugWhisperer
03-19-2010, 02:13 PM
Thanks....... I did pry it apart a bit just to see what happens. But I figured it had to be
SET at that somehow rather than prying it apart to get the belt down in. If the front and rear sheaves are out of line ( which they are ) do I undo the engine mount bolts to shift it the little bit it needs in order to have them lined up?

CharlieNH
03-19-2010, 02:21 PM
After I wrote you, I was thinking how my hydraulic portapower has a spreader that probably could handle forcing the sheave apart, but it sounds like you have that operation under control. Regarding alignment, I never had to deal with that, but I do think I remember discussion of it in the service manual, so you might check. I thought it was at the driven sheave. Make sure you think the alignment through right: when one sheave is apart, the other is together. Are you sure you have a problem there?

BugWhisperer
03-19-2010, 02:32 PM
Hmmmm...... the service manual shows both sheaves the same distance apart when
set at half variable. Then it shows putting a straight edge along the sheaves to check alignment. When I did have the belt on the front split shaft sheave and put it over the
shaft on the rear I looked from behind and the belt looked out of line at that time so I thought i'd better ask about it. Maybe i should get that belt on first then see.
thanks

bfdglenn
04-13-2010, 08:08 PM
I just found this site. Didnt know 610 parts were hard to find. I have a 610 somebody tore down to nothing and left sit. I bought just in case something went wrong with mine. If anyone needs parts let me know,Its all there

BugWhisperer
04-26-2010, 02:03 PM
I have the 610 V4FD Gas with a Wisconsin engine. I have rewired the whole thing
as the last guy wired the entire system using speaker wire! Now I find that the spark plug
wires are added in all wrong.

I have the service manual and no where does it give the firing order for me. Can anyone tell me this? Can I assume that the number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the flywheel??

I had a guy with me when I changed the points. I stepped away to get the feeler gauges and returned to find he had turned the unit by hand to get them on the high side without actually turning the engine over by hand to get it in position to install new points and gap them. How do I correct this? I'm good at changing things out and simple mechanics but when I run into this kind of thing I'm never sure what to do.

Also no info in manual for what the gap actually is for the points so I am using the same gap as it gives for the spark plugs. Does that put me close enough?

Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Glen

froda32
04-27-2010, 07:02 AM
i have the vh4d in my bobcat, the difference is the vh4d is 5 hp larger. i can provide the firing order, point gap for those.

firing order is 1-3-4-2, normally the cylinder numbers are stamped in the air cowling below each spark plug opening. if not here they are: #1 is nearest the flywheel on the left bank of cylinders (viewed from the flywheel end) #3 is the other cylinder in this bank. #2 is nearest the flywheel on the right hand bank and#4 is the other one in the right hand bank. i'd have to look up the point gap to be sure but i think it is .015.

good luck, i just rebuilt my engine, what a treat.

CharlieNH
04-27-2010, 07:12 AM
I see the engine specs in the back of my service manual under "Specifications." Section 8A. Breaker point gap .018 - .022 . Spark plug gap .030 Firing order as stated by previous poster.

BugWhisperer
04-27-2010, 08:34 AM
Thanks alot guys. AFTER you pointed out the page for the firing order I found it.
I must have looked at that thing 20 times and missed it. I will be calling myself names for the rest of the day lol.

Thanks for the explanation on the cylinders. With your help I think I can figure this thing out now.

Glen

Fhore
06-13-2010, 05:26 AM
I lent my 610 out and my brother in-law said he put 5 gals of hydraulic fluid in the breather on the right side? I know in the manual it says the fill port is on the left as you look at the back of the machine. Where did he put the fluid?

thanks,

CharlieNH
06-13-2010, 06:20 AM
It's symmetrical; shouldn't be any problem.

Fhore
06-13-2010, 03:57 PM
I apperciate the help, I just dont want to rebuild my awesome little machine.

Stevecomp3
09-24-2010, 10:30 PM
I have an M600 that has been working great for the last 8 years+, it has the larger M610 engine, and the prior owner had installed some larger tires and I think it must be a good sized 5 foot bucket. I found a NOS ROPPS for it as I got tired of thinking the next time could be my last, and along with the unit the prior owner also had rigged up a Backhoe attachment that has worked well for me. Last things purchased was a set of forks and an auger attachements that have chains and clamp to the bucket as this unit came before the Quick-Tach was out.
I only use it to maintain my 2.5 acres and perform any construction/destruction duties I have on my property.
Only thing I wish the cat had was brakes. Tough to drill a 10" post hole or use the backhoe if it wants to roll. Anyone know of the parts being available to install a set of brakes on this old M600?
Keeping it going. Thanks,

Fhore
11-17-2010, 06:15 AM
She leaks bad, I got a new pump and new cylinders this year. I was wondering if one of the Northern Tool loader valves would work in it? I put new o-rings on 4 years ago but the only on one plunger?? It was pretty pitted and the welding shop put some brass or something in it to smooth it out but she leaks again. Any ideas?

dogsluvtrux
11-24-2010, 02:53 PM
I bought a 610 with what seemed like bad bearings on the crankshaft...turns out the crank was broken in two, but the motor still ran...never would have guessed it.

I found what I thought was the correct crankshaft at a salvage yard in Texas, ended up it was for a vf4 and has 180 degree offsets...couldn't for the life of me find a crank for the VH4d, so I bought a replacement engine from Small Engine Warehouse...

Now I have a Wisconsin VH4D that's half way tore down...anyone interested in some parts? Carb is good, pistons are good, block is good (cylinders need honed), starter was checked out, camshaft/valves...

khdiamond
12-21-2010, 11:00 PM
Just bought an M610 Bobcat and the variable drive sheave needs to be replaced what is the best way to replace this?

froda32
12-23-2010, 11:32 AM
it would be best to get a manual as the disassembly instructions are pretty well detailed in it. but here's a quick overview.

Start by getting the driven sheave as wide as possible and then clamp it in place. the idea is to get the drive belt as lose as possible so you have slack on the belt.
remove the outer cover (if it's still there) over the opening in the frame to access the drive sheave
disconnect the hydraulic line.
remove the roto cylinder which is held in place with a couple of snap rings and washers this will allow the non fixed hallf of the sheave to be removed. remove the bolt that holds the fixed half of the sheave to the drive shaft, as i recall there is a set screw over a woodruf key in the fixed half as well

you'll probably need a puller and some heat to get the fixed side off of the shaft as it is a tapered crank chaft

be careful whe you put it back together that you find the match marks on the two halves of the sheaves and line them up. i never-seized the shaft on mine when i put it back togerher so as not to have so much trouble getting it apart next time.

assuming the heat and puller work for getting the fixed half off of the drive shaft it's about a 3 hour job.

the above steps are very general, as i said the manual does a pretty nice job of explaining it.

if you can't find a manual i maybe could scan the appropriate pages from the bobcat manual and email them to you.

good luck.

bernieb
06-18-2011, 12:48 AM
I just found this site. Didnt know 610 parts were hard to find. I have a 610 somebody tore down to nothing and left sit. I bought just in case something went wrong with mine. If anyone needs parts let me know,Its all there

hi im from perth west australia iv gota 610 with a datsun motor in it ,broke a axle and welded it back together ,dont know how long it will last,so i need a replacement for it in case it breaks again ,no parts in west australia is there any place where i can get a second hand one.

JDSKIDSTEER
06-19-2011, 07:45 AM
LOL....Funny this old thread pops up the same day I go to a farm to look at one for a possible trade......Anyone know what it is worth? Anyone interested. I will offer them what you are willing to pay just to get the deal. It runs pretty good. When I figure out how to resize photo's I will post them.

MacGyvr
07-31-2011, 12:07 AM
hi im from perth west australia iv gota 610 with a datsun motor in it ,broke a axle and welded it back together ,dont know how long it will last,so i need a replacement for it in case it breaks again ,no parts in west australia is there any place where i can get a second hand one.
Just found this site. Great Forum. Do you have the variable speed clutch that is pressed on the motor's tapered shaft? If so I would be interested in a few other parts as well.

MacGyvr
07-31-2011, 12:16 AM
hi im from perth west australia iv gota 610 with a datsun motor in it ,broke a axle and welded it back together ,dont know how long it will last,so i need a replacement for it in case it breaks again ,no parts in west australia is there any place where i can get a second hand one.
Sorry, just sold mine to a bobcat scrap dealer. It had all the axles on it in good shape. I was just at his shop last week. He worked at the actual plant in Gwynner, ND for 30 years. VERY knowledgeable about all machines. Deals almost exclusively by fax. Here is his information.
Buddy's Service and Supply Inc.
10 Old Highway 13
Milnor, ND 58060-4214
Phone (701) 427-5460
Fax 1-800-340-2101
If you have the manual, copy the page of parts, circle the ones you want and fax it to him, he will get back to you in a day or two by fax with the cost. He ships worldwide. I just bought $800 dollars of used/reconditioned/ and new parts from him.

rje616
11-01-2011, 08:04 PM
MacGyvr Hi.
I am in Tassie and need some parts for my 610 that I am restoring. Do you have any parts from the old vh4d wisconsin engine. If not can you tell me what type of datsun engine you put into your 610 and was it a simply conversion.

I can ring you if you like to have a chat. Or my number is 0439391137
Thanks
Rob

MacGyvr
11-02-2011, 12:59 AM
I would contact the guy I listed a bit higher in my chats. His name is Buddy. He worked at the actual bobcat plant for 30 years. He knows about everything you can think of about the bobcats new and old. He can get nearly every part you can think of for all engines and body parts for all size bobcats including the 610. He deals only by fax. I just ordered another 900 dollars in parts from him this week for my 610.
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firedancer
01-22-2012, 06:52 PM
anybody know how to check hyd level on right tank of 610 bobcat

MacGyvr
01-22-2012, 09:16 PM
anybody know how to check hyd level on right tank of 610 bobcat
The 610 has a built in passage that connects both tanks under the seat area. When you fill up the left tank it will equal out on the other side of the bobcat. Open up the top oil screw by the tires, pour in the fluid till it starts to trickle out of the top hole. Run your machine around a while and then open the screw again. Add more fluid if needed. All fluids including the gas are equaled on both sides. This keeps the bobcat's weight equal on both sides. Hope this helps..
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