RC30 ASC cab enclosure

[swanny]

I picked up an RC30 not too long ago...very useful machine. Spent a couple hundred bucks on hardware, steel, insulative foam, and plexiglass...1/8 inch for the sides...held it in place with windshield tape (very useful stuff....easy to remove during hot weather). Used 1/4" plexiglass for the door front and rear window.

Could have saved some money if I waited and shopped for the stuff on Craigslist instead of buying it at Home Depot.

Used 3/4" angle for the door frame. Grabbed a storm door lockset in black...works great...lockable too.

Took it out today...40 degrees and rainy...sure is nice and warm...don't have the heater yet either...a small 12v will work fine. Really cuts down on the noise inside the cab too. Hope it snows a lot this winter. :)

Oh - DIY Dave thanks for the help on the glowplug issue...you were spot on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/barndwellers_md/003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/barndwellers_md/004.jpg

[DUSTYCEDAR]

Thats slick
nice work

[flairland]

Looks great man. I'm looking to do something like that with my mini ex. Does that windshield tape really hold that well?? Also, what did you use to cut the plexi glass?

[swanny]

Looks great man. I'm looking to do something like that with my mini ex. Does that windshield tape really hold that well?? Also, what did you use to cut the plexi glass?

Windshield tape is the cat's meow. Comes in about a 3/8" bead coiled up (AutoZone), so for the sides I stretched it to about 1/8" diameter, and for the front glass to metal frame I stretched it to about half it's original size. Just make sure you have clean surfaces. Used a cordless jigsaw to cut the plexi, though sometimes I use my cut off tool on low rpm.

Someone told me RainX makes a special blend for plastics to make the water bead up...gotta find it.

Sure beats paying high dollar to get a factory cab.

[DiyDave]

Looks like a good clean job, I did mine with boat canvas plastic, and snap fasteners, problem is after a couple years, the plastic shrinks, and some snaps don't work. I made my door out of 3/4" box, 2 truck cap windows of safety glass, and a rudimentary turn handle. Put a windshield wiper on it, too. You'll find the enclosure will stay warm, just from your body heat, on all but the coldest days we get. What was the prob with the glow plugs, I forgot. Anyway now that you got it air tight, its time to build a snowblower! That should keep measurable snow from accumulating for the next 5-7 years, LOL!:laugh::laugh::waving:

[93turbo]

Looks good always nice to make something useful and nice with out spending a fortune. After years of no cab of anykind just keeping the wind off you is nice let alone a heater

[swanny]

What was the prob with the glow plugs, I forgot.

Was constantly frying fuse and relay...resistance in wires...ran new wire from relay to plugs.

These tracks pop when I jockey around at low rpm...have to tack it up to more than midway for the popping noise to decrease. Tracks are tight, lugs don't seem worn...nor does anything else....except for maybe the rollers on the one side...seem a little sloppy, but both sides pop. Is this typical?

[Ausman]

Check if there is any chipping on the sides of the drive lugs. If there is you may have an issue with the track riding up on top of your sprocket. Also dont run the tracks to tight! will destroy your front and rear wheel bearings.

[stuvecorp]

That cab looks nice. We have the cheapy pull over cab and no door so we can plow around the shop.

[DiyDave]

Was constantly frying fuse and relay...resistance in wires...ran new wire from relay to plugs.

These tracks pop when I jockey around at low rpm...have to tack it up to more than midway for the popping noise to decrease. Tracks are tight, lugs don't seem worn...nor does anything else....except for maybe the rollers on the one side...seem a little sloppy, but both sides pop. Is this typical?
My guess is to track tension, or lugs, or a couple of frozen drive pins, on the drive cage. Also remember, it turns different on grass or dirt, was designed to be hard to turn on grass, to keep from tearing up turf. Also was this the unit that had the suspension grease fittings frozen? If the suspension pivots are locked up, that affects things, too.:waving:

[swanny]

My guess is to track tension, or lugs, or a couple of frozen drive pins, on the drive cage. Also remember, it turns different on grass or dirt, was designed to be hard to turn on grass, to keep from tearing up turf. Also was this the unit that had the suspension grease fittings frozen? If the suspension pivots are locked up, that affects things, too.:waving:

This machine only had the lower rear suspension pin frozen both sides...I did your little trick and plumbed it with 1/8 pipe after I tried the porta power with no results, filled it with pb blaster over a week ago, capped it off, but haven't seen any results yet. I suppose this being frozen could be contributing to the popping noise, but I can't see exactly how. I may have to take the track off and take some heat to it to get it unfrozen.

I also want to install bushings in the front four pins, but need to track down a suitable match. Would like to stop by your place and take a look at your attachments you've made. This machine is wonderful for working in the ritzy burbs and keeping folks happy with little ground disturbance.

[LR3]

Great job on the cab! It looks good and it keeps the cold out. How long did it take you to make? And how much to ship one to Connecticut.:laugh: Considering how it looks and works, if you can keep the costs reasonable, you may be able to get a little side thing going fabricating them. I for one would be interested. Only, of course, if you had any interest in it. Again, good job!

[catnip]

Looks great!

What kind of 12v heater are you planning to use for it? I need to pick one up for my machine as well. Just wondering if you had found a decent one.

[swanny]

worked on it on and off over the course of a week...guess a couple of days total.

dealer wanted $2300 for enclosure plus wiper...guess i could market them easily for less than half. i noticed my rear panel was different if i reversed it...looked like my hood sat a bit cocked to one side.

i pulled a new 12v ceramic heater off craigslist for $5...won't need much... it was forty some with high winds an rain the other day..spread a tandem's worth of recycled cr6 with it... stayed super warm without heat...nice not getting wet either.

now i see why skids with cabs are so much more marketable.

[LR3]

You should consider adding a wiper to yours to see of it's worth making them with or without.
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[DiyDave]

Problem with wipers on plexiglass is wiper +jobsite grit= friction blur of scratches, into plexiglass. Plus plexiglass is weak enough to bend, under the load of the spring that holds the wiper to the surface, and brittle enough to crack on a really cold day. I wouldn't try it on anything less than safety glass. No offense of any kind meant, just my $.02

[LR3]

Problem with wipers on plexiglass is wiper +jobsite grit= friction blur of scratches, into plexiglass. Plus plexiglass is weak enough to bend, under the load of the spring that holds the wiper to the surface, and brittle enough to crack on a really cold day. I wouldn't try it on anything less than safety glass. No offense of any kind meant, just my $.02

Perfectly good advice, variables I didn't even take into consideration. I'm still going back and forth in the yard raising and lowering the bucket itching to dig or destroy something. lol
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[swanny]

actually polycarbonate would be 3x better than acrylic ...but much more expensive. getting a glass shop to make up a piece of tempered for the front would be a reasonable option.

acrylic tends to break in big shards...my first hyperbaric oxygen chamber i made had an all 1/2" acrylic door for the front...lasted a good while but finally gave way one day when i was inside of it sound asleep...put the pieces through the drywall 20' away...was only pumped up to 5 psi.

ended up making the front out of 1/2" aluminum.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/barndwellers_md/hyperbaricchamber003.jpg














'

[DiyDave]

Perfectly good advice, variables I didn't even take into consideration. I'm still going back and forth in the yard raising and lowering the bucket itching to dig or destroy something. lol
Posted via Mobile Device
What I did on mine isn't as pretty, but it served the purpose. I made the door out of metal, and went down to the junkyard, and got 2 flat windows out of an old panel van, or truck, cut holes into the metal, and installed them, with the gasket material that has 2 parts, you put the glass in, and insert a small rubber spline, to tighten it up. If your Plexiglass door had enough framework behind it, I have no doubt that you could attach the safety glass to the plexiglass with , say, silicone, then let your wiper wipe the safety glass, adhered like a skin, over the plexiglass.:waving:

[old oak lawn]

Good job on the cab and thanks for posting the picture. I have been thinking of doing the same thing with my bobcat and after seeing yours i will start on mine soon.

[John_DeereGreen]

I'm bringing this one back up from the dead, in the hopes that someone can help me with my glow plug issue...

I've got no power to either side of the glow plug fuse in the fuse box, but the indicator light in the console lights up when the key is turned to preheat.

Also, if anyone has any suggestions as to why the digital fuel gauge is reading empty all the time, it would be awesome.

Thanks!!

[DiyDave]

If this is about an ASV RC30, JDG, I would start at the basics. 1. is the fuse in the right spot in the fusebox? I think mine came with a spare that mounted in an empty slot. If you have no power to the fuse, I would take a big wire, attach a 50 amp fuse to it, connect to the plugs, and see if they heat up. Don't heat for more than 6-7 seconds. If something isn't connected right in the fuse box, you can make a bridge to a good, big hot wire, and go from there. If plugs are not heating, with the jumper wire, check the bridges (Flat pieces of metal that connect the plugs to each other) for tightness, finally check the plugs themselves for resistance. I'll see if I can get the info from my manual. If you stop by an ASV Dealer, they'll probably give you a manual for free, mine did, but then again, I bought the machine from them!:laugh::laugh::waving:

[stuvecorp]

I'm bringing this one back up from the dead, in the hopes that someone can help me with my glow plug issue...

I've got no power to either side of the glow plug fuse in the fuse box, but the indicator light in the console lights up when the key is turned to preheat.

Also, if anyone has any suggestions as to why the digital fuel gauge is reading empty all the time, it would be awesome.

Thanks!!

Actually we have the same problem right now. Checked the one fuse box thingy and they said it's all good. We do have one 5 amp fuse that keeps blowing?

[John_DeereGreen]

If this is about an ASV RC30, JDG, I would start at the basics. 1. is the fuse in the right spot in the fusebox? I think mine came with a spare that mounted in an empty slot. If you have no power to the fuse, I would take a big wire, attach a 50 amp fuse to it, connect to the plugs, and see if they heat up. Don't heat for more than 6-7 seconds. If something isn't connected right in the fuse box, you can make a bridge to a good, big hot wire, and go from there. If plugs are not heating, with the jumper wire, check the bridges (Flat pieces of metal that connect the plugs to each other) for tightness, finally check the plugs themselves for resistance. I'll see if I can get the info from my manual. If you stop by an ASV Dealer, they'll probably give you a manual for free, mine did, but then again, I bought the machine from them!:laugh::laugh::waving:
Yeah, it's an RC30.

I'll make sure that it's in the right spot tomorrow double checking, but I took it out the other day to look at it, and it's back in the spot the diagram shows it needs to be in. I'm going to check one more time to see if it's got power on one side before I go digging further.

Any idea why the indicator light light up when there's no power to either side of the fuse?

Any tips on the fuel gauge issue?

Thanks!!

[DiyDave]

Yeah, it's an RC30.

I'll make sure that it's in the right spot tomorrow double checking, but I took it out the other day to look at it, and it's back in the spot the diagram shows it needs to be in. I'm going to check one more time to see if it's got power on one side before I go digging further.

Any idea why the indicator light light up when there's no power to either side of the fuse?

Any tips on the fuel gauge issue?

Thanks!!
Fuel gauge goes to a wire, that ends under your right thigh, as you are seated in the seat. Sending unit could be bad, installed wrong, or the wire could be severed somewhere. Getting the sending unit requires seat removal, I think, and that requires a helper to hold onto the wrench on top, while you turn the nut underneath, when I finished up, I welded some steel tabs about 4" long, so the bolt won't move, while you remove the nut! There is something that I am forgetting about the heating setup it may be that there is a 5 amp fuse blown, that goes to the RELAY that runs the heater plugs. I am not sure of this, but it might be that the RELAY is cooked, and the little light and little 5 amp fuse control the relay, and if the relay is cooked, that would explain why there is no hot to the fuse. Here is the wiring diagram, as I recall, the can't do anything on computer, simplified version: switch_______light______5 amp fuse______relay______50 amp fuse_____glow plugs_______ground. Might not be right, but that's my guess.:laugh::laugh::waving:

[DiyDave]

Just happened to be on hold, near the manual, this morning, Manual says it could be main GP fuse, GP relay, connections, plugs, ignition switch. If it were me, I would start at the plugs, and work backward. Oh, and the manual is ASVSP001 (6/01) part # 0304-820. Good luck:waving:

[Digdeep]

Just happened to be on hold, near the manual, this morning, Manual says it could be main GP fuse, GP relay, connections, plugs, ignition switch. If it were me, I would start at the plugs, and work backward. Oh, and the manual is ASVSP001 (6/01) part # 0304-820. Good luck:waving:

You can download the operator manuals on the ASVI.com website for free.

[John_DeereGreen]

Got the glow plug issue figured out...ended up in just needing a new relay.

Unfortunately, cold starts aren't noticeably easier. I'm thinking now that there is power to the plugs, that they're worn out. Where can I find replacements, or is the dealer the best way?

It cranks for probably 20-30 seconds, I stop to give the starter a break, and then crank for another 20-30 seconds, and sometimes it will start and sometimes not. When it's below 30, it takes at least 3 20-30 second cranks to get it running. All the while, it's pouring white smoke, and right before it starts, black and white smoke out.

I'm guessing it needs glow plugs, but I'm also wondering if the fuel filter isn't plugged, or partially plugged.

Haven't had time to mess with the fuel gauge, but I'll be working on that here soon.

Thanks for all the help so far!!

[Digdeep]

Got the glow plug issue figured out...ended up in just needing a new relay.

Unfortunately, cold starts aren't noticeably easier. I'm thinking now that there is power to the plugs, that they're worn out. Where can I find replacements, or is the dealer the best way?

It cranks for probably 20-30 seconds, I stop to give the starter a break, and then crank for another 20-30 seconds, and sometimes it will start and sometimes not. When it's below 30, it takes at least 3 20-30 second cranks to get it running. All the while, it's pouring white smoke, and right before it starts, black and white smoke out.

I'm guessing it needs glow plugs, but I'm also wondering if the fuel filter isn't plugged, or partially plugged.

Haven't had time to mess with the fuel gauge, but I'll be working on that here soon.

Thanks for all the help so far!!

I would go ahead and call the factory. I have done this once and awhile when I had questions with good results. I think they are still one of the only OEMs that you can call direct without having to communicate through a rep. It's toll free too! 1-800-346-4367. I either ask for Tom (engines) or Tim on anything else. They seem to be good guys that don't mind providing information.

[DiyDave]

Mine generally starts in 10-15 seconds, after a 7 second glow. Another cheap thing you can do is to install a lower radiator hose heater, that runs off of 110Volt, preheat an hour or 2, and you don't need the glow plugs. As to the fuel filter being fouled, that is a distinct possibility. Early machines did not have a squeeze ball primer, but you can get one from napa, or Harbor freight, for that matter. Its a 5/16 hose size squeeze ball, with a one way check valve, makes priming a snap. Also, check ALL hoses, 5-7 years is all you can expect to get out of factory hoses, when I went to the trouble of replacing them, I bought the most expensive diesel resistant hoses that that the import auto place had, because pulling the seat out to replace those lines, is a real PITA!:waving:

[93turbo]

The smoke means your getting fuel its just not being burnt all the way cause theres not enough heat. I bet your glow plugs are burnt out and an easy way to tell is use an ohm meter and check them

[John_DeereGreen]

I've never worked with glow plugs before...I'm used to grid heaters...how do I check them? I've got a multimeter, and I know how to use it, just not sure how to go about checking resistance on the plugs.

[DiyDave]

I'm not 100% sure on this, but, I was taught that resistance = heat, ergo, in a glow plug a high resistance is good, right? I don't have the actual value that the glow plug should have, but my guess would be low resistance = a bad plug. Be sure to test each plug individually, remove the bridge bar, and pull out each plug and test. While you have the bridge bar off, clean the connections good with a wire brush.:waving:

[93turbo]

I've never worked with glow plugs before...I'm used to grid heaters...how do I check them? I've got a multimeter, and I know how to use it, just not sure how to go about checking resistance on the plugs.

I don't know about your glow plugs but the ones for my truck read around 1.5 ohms but I think between 1-3 ohms is acceptable. Simply use you meter to check between the electrical connection and the grounded part either the top of the threads left sticking out of the head or where the wrench goes. Another way to check is to use a test light hooked between the power wire and the glow plug if it lights the the glow plug is still good:cool2:

[John_DeereGreen]

I'm coming back in to tell what ended up coming out of the deal...needed new plugs. Got them in, and put a coolant heater in the lower radiator hose, and she starts and purrs like a kitten now.

It's awesome in the snow!!

Now, I need to get this cab built for it...anyone have more detailed pictures?