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93Chevy
12-10-2009, 08:54 PM
My old boss has an older Lesco 36" dual hydro with at 15hp Kaw engine with a few thousand hours. It's a great machine and very reliable. However, whoever starts it is in for a nasty surprise. Their shoulder just about gets ripped off.

I'm not sure that "pull back" is the correct term. But is there a simple way to rectify this problem? I'd like to help him out with a simple fix if possible, but if was have to do a lot of tedious carb work, it's not worth it.

Thanks in advance for your time and ideas.

DT Lawn Care
12-10-2009, 09:49 PM
Doubtful it's anything in the carb. Does it start right up when it just about rips your arm off? Is the motor equipped with ACR (Automatic Compression Release)? I would guess you need to adjust your valves, but go ahead and post your engine model #, that will help the guys out.

93Chevy
12-10-2009, 10:08 PM
Doubtful it's anything in the carb. Does it start right up when it just about rips your arm off? Is the motor equipped with ACR (Automatic Compression Release)? I would guess you need to adjust your valves, but go ahead and post your engine model #, that will help the guys out.

I won't be able to post the engine model till Saturday, but I'll get it up.

It usually takes less than 5 pulls to get started. It never starts on the pull that rips my arm off, but it almost always starts one or two pulls after.

I do not know if the engine is equipped with ACR. Like I said, it's not my mower and I don't know the machine very well. I may only have about 5 hours on it.

Thanks for your help.

pugs
12-11-2009, 05:56 PM
If its a vtwin, start by adjusting the valves.

Be very careful with it till you get the problem fixed because the recoil is held in place with 4x6inch long studs that can get loose or break off in the engine block. 2 of them hold the ignition modules. One on each of the modules legs. If those loosen up you could get a module rubbing the flywheel.

PROCUT1
12-12-2009, 07:02 PM
Usually the timing is off a little bit. This happens a lot with a partially sheared flywheel key.

93Chevy
12-12-2009, 11:30 PM
Thanks for all your replies.

I think he's planning on getting a new 36" next season and doesn't want to mess with this one anymore. Thank you everybody for your ideas and I apologize for your time.

topsites
12-16-2009, 09:38 AM
Are you sure you are always using the proper pull technique?

You know, we're supposed to turn the engine until just before compression and then pull,
so that right off the bat it gets you through the toughest part and once the piston is
in motion you should be able to pull through...
It's something to that effect, I don't recall the exact steps but it's in the manual
and there's good reason for it (as in, or it will pull your arm off), might read up on it.

The other thing that comes to mind is water in the engine, I have learned with some engines
if that thing is left outside when it rains, doesn't always happen but all it takes is water somehow
gets through either the muffler or the carburetor down into the compression chamber, and this
will stop the engine in its tracks upon compression...
Here again, learning how to pull that rope could help prevent this.

That might be all it is, there's definitely a trick to it, not saying that will fix it
but learning that could help, it's certainly saved me a few of those nasty backlashes.

93Chevy
12-16-2009, 10:53 AM
Are you sure you are always using the proper pull technique?

You know, we're supposed to turn the engine until just before compression and then pull,
so that right off the bat it gets you through the toughest part and once the piston is
in motion you should be able to pull through...
It's something to that effect, I don't recall the exact steps but it's in the manual
and there's good reason for it (as in, or it will pull your arm off), might read up on it.

The other thing that comes to mind is water in the engine, I have learned with some engines
if that thing is left outside when it rains, doesn't always happen but all it takes is water somehow
gets through either the muffler or the carburetor down into the compression chamber, and this
will stop the engine in its tracks upon compression...
Here again, learning how to pull that rope could help prevent this.

That might be all it is, there's definitely a trick to it, not saying that will fix it
but learning that could help, it's certainly saved me a few of those nasty backlashes.


If by proper pull technique, I believe I follow that.

I never "yank" the rope. I always pull it lightly until I reach compression, or tension. Then I pull fast, not yanking, just quickly, and release slowly. I also never let go of the rope and let it fly, unless it pulls my arm off.

Thank you.

freddyc
12-17-2009, 07:53 PM
If by proper pull technique, I believe I follow that.

I never "yank" the rope. I always pull it lightly until I reach compression, or tension. Then I pull fast, not yanking, just quickly, and release slowly. I also never let go of the rope and let it fly, unless it pulls my arm off.

Thank you.



Procut1 is right.... the most likely problem is your timing. Check the key to make sure it's located right. Be careful--it will pull your arm off.

I had a small 6hp motor do this... started up after about 5-6 pulls, backfired once in a while. The key was completely sheared off from a previous owner. Now it starts on the first easy pull every time and no kickback at all. It only takes a min to check it and its cheaper than a broken arm or separated shoulder.

93Chevy
12-17-2009, 07:58 PM
I'll mention that. Thanks for all your responses.