Overworked my eXmark,should I freak out?

[Russo]

I have always taken very good care of my 48" eXmark variable speed belt drive. I got a little too proud of it's power the other day and put a hurtin on it. I mowed a lot with 3 ft tall grass ( no exageration ) and the machine bogged a lot but did a great job as always. Well, I gave it the usuall once over last night and notices that I burned up all the gear oil in tranny, all the oil in the crank case, and more grease than normal. All this after only an hour of mowing. Everything seem to be OK but I could use a little advise.

1. Should I freak out? What should I look for or listen for as far as potential problems that may arise when I begin using it again.

2. The specs say to use SAE 30 oil in this Kaw 14 but this stuff seems awfully thin. Will using SAE 40 be a stupid thing to do or might it keep the engine running cooler?

Thanks in advance for the help. I enjoy lurking thru this forum and absorbing from you guys.

[khouse]

Don't wory about something that hasen't happened. Change out the grease and oil and run it normal. Don't forget to dechaff the engine by taking off the blower covers. You can run 100% synthetic oil in your engine now that's it's broke in.

[Russo]

Thanks, bro.

I needed some reassurance. It is my baby.

I'm all about the synthetic oil, too. I should have told you that this is a ten year old machine. Can you help me on the SAE 30 vs. SAE 40 part of the question?

Also, what is this with the dechaffing? I havn't heard this term before.

Thanks again, Landscraper.

[khouse]

I personally haven't had a problem with running 10-30 synthetic oil in motors rated at a strait 30 wt. Dechaffing is when you take all or most of the sheet metal ie. blower housings off of the engine and blow everything clean with compressed air.

[Russo]

Thanks, dude! Ran it last night with no troubles.

[SLIMDAWG1]

I AM A TRUE BELIEVER OF SYNTHETIC OIL.I RUN 10-30 SYNTHETIC AND I DON'T KNOW WHY ANY ONE WHO CUTS ALL DAY WOULD USE CONVENTIONAL OIL.BELIEVE THOSE PREVIOUS REPLIES ON SYNTHETIC THOSE GUYS KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.

[blairbuc]

Yes on the Synthetic and Amsoil does make a streight 30 weight if you don't trust dirty 10-30. Now I know I'll sound like a snake oil salesman but a buddy of mine manages tug boat diesel engines in New York Harbor. These engines cost $750,000 to rebuild and are similar to the ones used to pull trains. He watches hobbs meters, and checkes for particulate matter in the oil, and when a motor goes he manages the overhaul and takes notes. To make a long story short, he uses Tuff Oil. He hates all other additives and in many cases he says they do harm. but from his records, he is almost doubling the life of his engines. Believe me, he keeps records and does not make statements from word of mouth. At $750,000 per engine, when something happens his boss wants answers.

[Russo]

Thanks for the extra input, guys!

I was listening to Pat Goss ( of Motor Week fame ) on the G. Gordon Liddy show the other day. He said that "breaking in" an engine with normal oil before using synthetic is a myth. He stated, " What is in nonsythetic oil that makes it better for the first several hours of operation as opposed to synthetic? Nothing."

KHOUSE,

I find your posts to be among the experts and value your opinions. Was wondering what you, or anyone else, thinks on this issue. Or has this topic been discussed and beaten to death already?

Thanks again, Landscraper.

[Bill c]

Its not whats in normal oil but what it does not have.Synthetic is a better quality lubricant and is "slippery" than regular and doesn't allow the engine to break in as good.

[Russo]

That is a pretty general statement. Define "break in" so one can undertand this theory. If synthetic is a better lubricant, why isn't better for breaking in? Like I said, someone just tell me if this is a dead horse and why.

BTW- grew up in upsate NY myself....beautiful but cold.

[Bill c]

Break in period is when the metal to metal surfaces wear into each other.One of the most critical areas is the piston ring to cylinder wall surface.With synthetics used for the break in it is possible for these surfaces not to wear correctly and cause excessive oil use.

[Russo]

I guess I'll buy that. So your saying that a little wear is good to let the metal surfaces "fit" better. Appreciate your responses.

[khouse]

Landscraper,
What Bill c said I believe is true. That doesn't mean that I'm right either. I will do some checking. I found that most automotive manufacturers say that you can use synthetic oil on the first oil change. I read years ago when we started using Amzoil that they recommended you to break your engines in with mineral oil. I found where some hi-po factory cars use syn right from the factory. Maybe these engines are broke in at the factory? I don't know. We all know that syn is slicker than regular oil. It just makes sense to me to greak your rings in then switch over. I'm going to call Valvoline and ask them also.

http://www.mobil1.com/saveContentFrame.jsp?contentFrame=http%3A//www.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp

[Grasshog]

Wonder why some new high end cars come all ready packed with syth oil.

[blairbuc]

Just to add to the confusion of synthetic break in.

My VW Diesel came new with synthetic. No break in.

My 98 GM truck came with normal hydrocarbon oil. GM did not want synthetic in that engine until it was broken in at 25,000miles.

My 1975 Onan diesel generator? Cummins/Onan said an engine that ran all those years on streight 30 weight non synthetic should not be switched to a synthetic. Wear patterns in the cross hatch of the cylinder walls were established and switching at this point would produce blow-by.

Back in 1990 I talked to the Honda Tec that headed the team that wrote the manual on their V-6. He took apart engines and examined them literally under an electron microscope. That engine had chromed cylinder walls and he hated what synthetic oil did. Ok, that was 12 years ago and may-be things are different. He felt the synthetic was too slippery. This allowed the oil to go past the rings, into the combustion chamber were it left a residue in the combustion chamber. As this residue built on the chamber walls, the compression ratio increased making the engine octane thirsty and putting more load on the main bearings. Probably did not help the head gasket either.

My brother was one who believes in synthetic from day one, no break in with cheaper oil. Not knowing that lifter noise was normal noise in his car he decided he needed new lifters at 83,000 miles one day. We pull them and found something amazing. No blueing to the metal, indicating heat. No wear on the milling marks left when a manufacturer spins the lifter body, or mills it round. These marks are always worn to flat and shinny with non synthetic oils. In short, those old lifters had no wear. They looked and mic-ed to the dementions of the new ones.

Well, my brother always complained of lack of power. We drained out the synthetic after 83.000 miles and decided to break in a 8 year old car. Sounds a little strange, but after getting use to what a car will do being floored up the same hill everyday on your way to work, my brother said the car now had more power after going 15,000 miles on non synthetic. I think at this point he probably got the rings to seat for the first time. Should have been done the first year he had the car. Could be in his head, I'll never know, but one thing for sure, if you can't wear out milling marks off the side of a lifter, than what hope do you have of breaking in rings with a harder face.

I now break in my engines on non- synthetic and then switch. I don't think 5000 miles is enough either.

[Plowguy99]

Go by what the engine manufacturer recomends. If they recomend 30w then use it. If they recomend synthetic oil then use it. The engine companies do numerous tests when they design engines and they know what works best in their engines. Also, using synthetic oil will not increase your service intervals. Synthetic oils have a higher temperature at which they break down, but you still have to change your oil just as much. On my Exmark Lazer Z, the Kohler engine manual states that you can use synthetic oil, but it is not necissary. However, the hydraulic system states that only Mobil 1 5w40 can be used.

[ADLAWNCUTTERS]

my kawi get what ever i have laying around and like it. my oldest is from 1987 and not one problem. i think it is more important to change it once in a while.

[Alan]

Originally posted by Plowguy99
. Also, using synthetic oil will not increase your service intervals. Synthetic oils have a higher temperature at which they break down, but you still have to change your oil just as much.

I would appreciate an explanation of that line of thought. I'm running synthetic and using extended change intervals. 25 Kohler has run synthetic since the second change and I change once a season, about 250 hrs. Engine is dead clean inside and I can still read the writing on the dipstick through the oil on it after that interval. I put the rapid blackening of dino oil down to charring at the high temperatures these engines run. The synthetic ability to resist breakdown seems ot make the difference in that respect. Why NOT run extended service intervals? What are your facts to back up your opinion?

[Bill c]

I run mobil 1 in everything and use extended service intervals with the exception of changing the filter midway and top it off .And like alan said the oil doesn't even get black.

[Alan]

I forgot to mention that I DO change filters at the half way mark as well.

[JOHN EASLEY]

ENGINE MANUFACTURERS RECCOMEND CHANGING OIL THE FIRST TIME AFTER 6 TO 10 HOURS. THIS IS TO GET RID OF PARTICLES OF METAL THAT BREAK OFF FROM THE MACHINED SURFACES INSIDE THE ENGINE THE TECHNICAL TERM FOR THESE PARTICLES IS ASPERITIES. THERE IS NO SENCE IN USING EXPENSIVE SYNTHETIC OIL TO ACCOMPLISH THIS. SYNTHETIC OIL IS FINE BUT THE ENGINE MANUFACTURERS ALSO OFFER PREMIUM OIL DESIGNED FOR AIR COOLED ENGINES AT A MUCH MORE AFFORDABLE PRICE CHANGE YOUR OIL OFTEN AND KEEP A GOOD AIR FILTER ON THE ENGINE MAKE SURE THE AIR FILTER IS DOING ITS JOB BY INSPECTING THE CARB THROAT FOR SIGNS OF DIRT INGESTION.