PDA

View Full Version : Redmax 8000 low on power


Bunton Guy
01-02-2010, 07:40 PM
I've noticed a overnight issue with one of my redmax 8000 blowers. Its on its second season and one day we went to start a large leaf cleanup and the blower started loosing power really bad on a lawn this was after just over an hour of straight blowing which isn't uncommon for our blowers during leaf season.

It sounded like someone was "strangling" the motor....choking off the air and exhaust supply almost. Hard to explain what it sounded like but it went from wide open throttle to lower and lower throttle without actually moving the throttle...it was full of clean fuel mixed at 50:1 89 octane mixed with Lucas semi-synthetic oil.

After we shut it off to grab a spare blower we tried starting it a couple hours later and it wouldn't start. Let it sit for a couple days in the shop and now it starts just fine but has a really weird "straining" sound like its having a hard time keeping up with a slight sound of a hi resonance vibration. We tore it took a look at it later that night in the shop and nothing seemed loose. Took the muffler off and it was as clean as a whistle....blew it out and soaked it for a couple days in the parts washer then cleaned it off again and blew it out and let it dry. Still no difference in performance it still feels to be down 30% on power and still has that straining sound to the motor.

Could it have scuffed a cylinder from running to long without a break? We've gone 2-3hrs. straight with no breaks on this blower before with no issues till recently.

ricky86
01-03-2010, 02:52 AM
Best repair for that problem is a BR600. I'd say leave the RedMax on the curb and someone will take it, to save you a trip to the dump, but they will most likely bring it back. LOL

Oldtimer
01-03-2010, 02:40 PM
it was full of clean fuel mixed at 50:1 89 octane mixed with Lucas semi-synthetic oil.

Which Lucas semi-synthetic oil are you using?


Oldtimer

Bunton Guy
01-03-2010, 03:31 PM
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=45&catid=3&loc=show

this is the one. I buy it by the quart for cheap at a local store that has it mislabeled regularly:laugh:

Seems to exceed the needs of the engine.

betmr
01-03-2010, 04:16 PM
How about the Spark Arrester Screen in the muffler. Did you take that out, and make sure it is clean? We take them out of ours and throw them away.

sjessen
01-03-2010, 04:19 PM
I had one that acted like you described. Dealer put a new carb on it and it ran like a champ. Recommend starting there.

Bunton Guy
01-03-2010, 05:26 PM
I had one that acted like you described. Dealer put a new carb on it and it ran like a champ. Recommend starting there.

Thanks I will ask the repair shop down the road how much one is.


BTW I took the spark arrestor out when it was brand new before the blower was even started. I didn't want any trouble down the road.

whitebp1
01-03-2010, 11:42 PM
assuming youve checked the air filter and plug sounds loike a possible carb issue.

Bunton Guy
01-04-2010, 07:03 AM
Yes plug is new and air filter is new as of April (looks great)

Oldtimer
01-04-2010, 07:13 AM
This product is a "low smoke" two-cycle oil formulated from a special blend of mineral oil, polybutene and a low ash additive system. Lucas 2-Cycle Racing Oil is specially designed to prevent carbon deposits to the piston rings, skirt, crown and under crown areas and prevent exhaust port blocking. It is prediluted with a special solvent to facilitate mixing with gasolines at all temperatures.

Lucas 2-Cycle Racing Oil is recommended for all air and liquid cooled two-stroke engines and lower specific output air-cooled engines functioning under all operating conditions. Meets the requirement for "low smoke" oils often referred to as "smokeless" oils. Designed primarily for use with oil injection systems where no fuel/oil premixing is required. However, it is also acceptable for use in premixes of gasoline and oil up to 50:1.

I would perfer recommended over acceptable.

Oldtimer

mini14
01-05-2010, 02:03 AM
ive had nothing but probs with my 8000's. look for a carboned plug first, arrestor screen pluged, pull the muff and look for broken rings, scored cylinder, with plug out look for a hole in the cylinder, trouble starting could be low compression from fubared piston and cylinder damage.....the last one i fixed aced the same as u describe, hard to start and low on power, eventually it wouldnt start at all. thats when i pulled the jug to find a hole in the piston. good news is u can p&c the pos for $125 and only 30 min.