** NEED WIRING DIAGRAM ** Bunton wb mower w/ 17.5hp Tecumseh

[jlbf0786]

I just bought a Bunton 36" Walkbehind mower that has a Tecumseh 17.5hp Enduro engine on it. The engine has an electric starter, this isn't the engine that was on the Bunton originally (which im sure most of you already know).

This mower had a Tecumseh on it originally, but "from what i was told by the seller" it was changed to this newer/larger TECUMSEH 17.5hp Enduro w/ elec. start. It didnt come with a battery or a Solenoid, but i went and picked both up from Advance Auto today, I just havent had experience w/ walkbehinds that are elec. start!
It has no recoil/pull starter option (i would have rather had that.)


I NEED THE WIRING DIAGRAM --OR-- Steps to wiring the entire IGNITION & BATTERY to the mower.

Ive stripped the mower of its original wiring from under the handle bar assembly.


IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME OUT WITH THIS I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!

Thanks guys~ Have a great New Year!!!

~JB
CHARLOTTE, NC

[jlbf0786]

I forgot to include the model/serial of the Mower & Engine on the original post!
_________________________
BUNTON
Model# 630200
Serial# 6302000284
_________________________

TECUMSEH
Model# OHV175 204803B
Serial# YTPXS.4902AA
_________________________


Thank again fellas

[Richabrad9]

I hope this helps. This is the simpleless I could come up with and it is using a standard Briggs Switch with lights, acessory, start, run and off. This is for the start and kill only. If you have an eletric Pto You will need to find out if your stator can handle meaning amps output and know that safety switches should be wired back up as well.

[jlbf0786]

Hey thanks for the wiring diagram.

Thats exactly what i ended up doing, except the 1st time around i didnt use a thick enough wire from the battery to solenoid.. it ended up melting the wire! i should've known better, but i went w/ a thicker wire and it runs fine now.

Thanks again,

[Richabrad9]

Just in case, I would include a 15 fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible on the wire leading to the B on the switch. In the event of a short or bad switch it will blow the fuse and not your charging system or magneto. Sorry I didnt get to you in time.

[jlbf0786]

I appreciate the responses. It was helpful info..
BUT now ive got another issue:

I cant get the engine to shut off until i choke it!
The red-wire that comes from the magneto should go to one of the ignition terminals, and i cant figure out which one.
Can someone tell me exactly where this wire goes?
***See from the attached photo what the ignition looks like underneath exactly.


Also,
I put a new battery on it, and today it was dead.. and i had to jump it off.
Why does it keep dying?

[FIXDISS]

Put the kill wire from the ignition module on the "M" terminal. The switch must also be grounded if not mounted to a metal plate or frame. When you switch off the switch the magneto or ignition module grounds thru the switch to kill engine. If your battery is going dead when switched to off and you have no lights on unit then make sure you don't have power to the shut down solenoid on bottom of carb when you turn switch off. That is if you have one on that engine. Just my half-fast opinion....

[Lawn Man Dave]

I have ran Bunton's with the Kawi motor's (If I remeber right they were Kawi's) and they had electric start but it was all removed. If you take care of them it only takes a few pulls at must to start them cold then the rest of they day you have bacd luck it if takes more then 1 pull to start them. The key was just an arming switch to let you start it.

It was also nice because win it rained or it slid into a rentention pond there was not much wiring that could get wet.

[jlbf0786]

The only 3 wires running to the ignition switch is:
B = Battery
S = Solenoid
and another wire thats coming from the magneto, but i couldnt get the engine to die today when trying to find out which one it is on the ignition...


I put it to each one of the left over terminals on the bottom of the
ignition and non of them would stop the engine!

What could be draining the battery?

[Richabrad9]

Was this a new switch? If not it could be bad. I would check all of your connections with a multimeter for continuity. If the wire from the magneto is touch to ground or part of the frame anywere it should die. Like the other post, Make sure your switch is grounded. I see you have an extra ground plug, Attach a wire to that and bolt it to the frame as well. The magneto wire should still be on the M terminal. Again as above, If you have a carb with a wire coming off the bottom of the bowl, Attach that wire to the acessory terminal. Hope this helps.

[jlbf0786]

Richabrad9
"this is probably a stupid question, but which one is the extra ground?"

i know that the engine did try to turn over when you turn the switch, so
the switch itself couldnt be bad, right??


im letting the battery charge back up now, as soon as its ready i'll let yall know if it works ok.

thanks

[FIXDISS]

The one marked "G " on your diagram. Whatever you do do not connect 12 volts to your ignition module or you will fry it !

[Richabrad9]

Just as Fixdiss said. Sometimes the switch is grounded internally, but yours looks to be isolated so you probably have to use the "G" terminal to ground the switch. Just plug a connector to the "G" and attach the wire to the frame of the mower close by and that should get you fixed. Any luck on the battery drainage?

[jlbf0786]

just as fixdiss said. Sometimes the switch is grounded internally, but yours looks to be isolated so you probably have to use the "g" terminal to ground the switch. Just plug a connector to the "g" and attach the wire to the frame of the mower close by and that should get you fixed. Any luck on the battery drainage?


so i would have to ground the "kill wire" that comes from the magneto to the "g" on the bottom of the switch, then from which terminal do i ground it? B/c if the "g" is being used for the kill wire
then which one would be used to attach to the frame of the mower?

Also, i bought an led indicator lamp to install on it... How would i wire it up to the system? I want it to glow when the key is switched to "on" (kinda like an oil pressure indicator lamp!)

[Richabrad9]

Your kill wire from the magneto would still go to "M". You would take a small piece of wire and attach it to the "G" termial and run that to the frame of the mower. You should be able to attach the led + end to the "Y" terminal and the - wire to the frame of the mower.

[Richabrad9]

Here is an updated diagram to assist you. Hope this helps a little more.

[jlbf0786]

"THANKS FOR THE DIAGRAM AND INSTRUCTIONS, WAS VERY HELPFUL!"

1 more question-

-the "L" terminal on your diagram (green wire from the charging system)..

Can you tell me what this wire does exactly, because I was told that I had to attach this one to the battery (+).
Am i wrong for doing this? Could this be the reason my battery is getting drained?



Thanks


JB
Charlotte NC

[jlbf0786]

well, now the mower won't start and it seems to be flooding out.
it turns over, and over, and over, etc... but just wont fire up!

i was thinking it was something to do w/ the wiring changes, but all i done different was ground the ignition switch to the frame, and run the kill wire from the magneto to the (M) terminal on the switch.

im gonna go take the carb off, chk it for debris or something that could be causing it to not fire up/flood.
if it wont run after that then im gonna run the mower over w/ my truck!

[Richabrad9]

Your correct about the the charging wire. It needs to be connected to the "L" terminal so when you turn the switch off, the charging systems is cut off from the battery. With the charge wire connected straight to the battery, your taking the 12 volts from the battery and applying it to the charger thus draining your battery.

[jlbf0786]

With the charge wire connected straight to the battery, your taking the 12 volts from the battery and applying it to the charger thus draining your battery.[/QUOTE]

"i thought that was what was draining the battery!"
I cant get it to start (even after cleaning the carb out, dbl. checked my wiring and i cant find anything keeping it from firing up..

If its turning over fine, but not firing up then it couldnt be a wiring issue.. right???
It has to be a fuel problem or something right?

[Richabrad9]

I would take the kill wire from the magneto off of the switch for now and see if it will fire. Check for fire out of the spark plug as well. I dont think you could have done anything to hurt the system. Wiring should be fine. But just as a trouble shoot, disconect the kill wire. Worst case you will have to choke it to shut it off but you will know were the problem lies.

[jlbf0786]

I've already tried that, and i also tried to change it back to the way it was prior to grounding the ignition switch.. and still nothing.
(im honestly stumped here)

Im gonna try to jump it off using the battery from my truck, this way i'll know if its the battery atleast. (Yesterday this is the way it started and ran fine)
This battery on the mower was charged all night.

The spark plug is getting wet, so its flooding.. does this say fuel related, or other problem?? I mean i know if you try to crank and choke it too much it'll flood, but this means its getting fuel atleast.

[FIXDISS]

You can hook 10 batteries to it and it won't start. If you connected the kill wire from magneto(ignition module) to 12 volts positive from switch or battery then you fried the module and it will not fire. Changing wiring has no effect on carb unless you have a shut down solenoid on the bottom of the carb. If the plug is wet with gas then that rules out fuel problem pretty much. Pull the plug, attach the plug wire to the plug,ground the hex base of the plug to metal on engine block or shroud.Disconnect the kill wire from switch and make sure it is not grounded.Spin engine with starter. If no fire then you will need a new ignition module. Just my half-fast opinion.....

[jlbf0786]

FIXDISS, I think you're right about the ignition module/coil being shot!

I tested it for spark and i didnt notice anything when it was hooked up to a spark tester.
Its the only logical explanation to why its not starting!

--Can I go to NAPA or somewhere and possibly find an aftermarket COIL that'll work on this engine???

TECUMSEH part# 36344
its used on alot of OHV engines i've read online, but i wasnt sure if i could find a similar size module and make it work?


The factory OEM replacement is over $75 and thats rediculous!

[FIXDISS]

Yep. That is a little high comparing what you can get it for on-line. when you tested for spark did you have kill the wire disconnected from the module ?

[jlbf0786]

Yep. That is a little high comparing what you can get it for on-line. when you tested for spark did you have kill the wire disconnected from the module ?

I had the kill wire disconnected from the ignition switch only, but not from the module.. the kill-wire didnt run to the module itself, the only wire that ran to the module was a green wire and it was connected at the time.
I had the spark plug against the block and i couldnt see any sparks.