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David Gretzmier
01-19-2010, 08:45 AM
Started accumulating materials for my new building for Christmas lights and landscape lights. this will be build along side of my current building and may be the first photo's I post on lawnsite online. Just thought you guys would like to follow along on the cost and time for me to build what I could afford. This also will kind of be my journal as well, letting me remember and look back ( as I often do here ) to help me not repeat mistakes, but try to make new ones !. I will try to take photo's of the pile of wood today and the jobsite.

mulchmaster
01-19-2010, 09:17 AM
Sounds good, you know we like pics!

David Gretzmier
01-19-2010, 11:40 PM
no pics yet, but a long run down and some costs so far.

way back last year I originally I had planned on a 30x90 building to go beside my 30x90 building. or maybe a huge 60x100 building to go over my current one and tear the other down. I actually thought my building was 30x100, but I walked it off and though it was closer to 30x90.

my current building is 9 foot tall at the sides, has trusses every 10 feet inside and goes up to a 13 or so foot height in the middle peak. It has an office, a few closets, a bathroom, but I have pretty much maxed out the storage space inside.

I like to think of cubic footage when you start thinking of rack space for Christmas light storage- Aisles are neceesary, as are offices, bathrooms, employee clock in, vending machines, tools, vehicle chemical junk, but not storage, just wasted space. really, what you want is rack space.

my cubic rack space is currently ( I'm adding it up here myself) in feet- 32x8x13,100x4x9, 4x8x4, 4x8x8,4x12x9,4x12x9,4x25x9,4x20x9,8x24x9. that total of cubic footage is- 11524 cubic foot of rack space per 2640 square foot building. oh, by the way, when you actually measure my building, it is only 88 foot long. not 90. go figure. still, when you figure the building is an average of 10 feet tall, you'd think that aout of 26400 available cubic feet you'd do better. but I don't.

and the results are pretty firm here, 180 properties give or take, with all thier stuff and the rack space you need to support that stuff ( the mentioned office, bathroom, and bulbs, spare parts, don't count, but your new inventory space to house items ordered but not put up do- takes about 64 cubic feet per customer. 11524/180=64. so the big question is, how does the new building add up in terms of how many customers can I add with the new building?

The good news is in the current building I already have an under used office space that could easily house 2 workers if the vending machines were moved out. The bathroom space is adequate, and I have a 2nd bathroom area that is currently being used as an employee uniform and lock down area ( I have the key to the lock). I also have a clock in area that can handle up to 16 guys uncomfortably.

so the new building can be mostly storage, with maybe a pull in area for the boxvans for us to work on them. The tough thing is, I need to start thinking about loading and unloading vehicles, rather than just parking them and storing folks stuff. so the new building will have 5 side "bay" doors for trucks to back up to and park at night, plus a front door to pull a truck into or to park a 6th truck to load/unload. All the doors will be added in the future. let's look at layout-

the new building will be 34 wide x 88 long. 19 foot tall at the sides with a 24 foot peak. I have planned racks of 76x4x19 along one wall that abuts the old building, ( 1 4 foot walk and one 8 foot garage door connects the buildings and must be open), a 6 foot aisle, and a mega 76 long x 10 wide 22 foot tall double sided rack. the other 14 foot and the 88 foot length of the building is open for interpretations and loading/working area for now. the 12 foot x 12 foot garage door will be on that side and allow a pull in for box van work.

post here to save-

David Gretzmier
01-19-2010, 11:55 PM
so, without other racks, what does this give me in terms of rack cubic footage? I have went as tall as I can, ( as I can afford anyway) , and I cannot make the building any longer or wider without losing the ability of trucks to back up to the side of the building. If you do the math- 76x4x19 and 76x10x22, you get 22500 or so in cubic footage in racks. or basically double what I curently have for 180 properties.

so although that theoretically means I can store another 340-360 properties, I have always said the realistic largest size of my business is about 400 properties anyway. since I lose 5-10% every year ( and a bit more this year, closer to 15% ) when 10% of my business is 40 properties, or at 400 or so, I will be losing as many as I gain in new.

so the new building should be big enough.

David Gretzmier
01-20-2010, 12:22 AM
costs so far-

existing concrete pad- free- was there when I bought the building. yay !
labor and dump fee to tear off carport that was hooked to existing building- 150
16, 22footx6x6 treated posts 56 each or about 1000 bucks
12 22footx6x6 treated posts 96 each or 1200 or so bucks ( yeah, story there)
47 8 footx2x12 rough cut oak- headers, 8 bucks each or 350 or so bucks. 3 were free.
29 8footx3x6 rough cut oak- knee braces, 6 bucks each or 168 bucks. 1 free

about a 100 of mixed 16 and 18 foot 2x4's for purlins on roof trusses and used for stakes for the 6x6 posts til concrete hardens and headers are bolted in. 500 bucks

1 box 3 1/2 inch air framing nails_ tack in headers and knee braces 50 bucks

1 box of 325, 3/8 x4 lag bolts 50 bucks+shipping ( wholesalebolts.com and below)- 4 to each truss and anchor knee braces to headers and posts.

2 boxes of 75 each, 5/8 x 10" grade 5 bolts and nuts to match, 300 bucks+shipping.

more to spend, but that is what I spent, THIS WEEK !

total so far- 3768.

planned spending before I leave out of town for consulting gig and cruise on friday- new gutters on old building- 500-600 bucks,

pay guy to drill and set poles- some holes are dug, some need to be cut and dug, waiting on "other" poles-aprox 1000.

David Gretzmier
01-20-2010, 12:51 AM
oh yeah, back story on poles and cutting concrete.

poles-

I originally planned on using rough cut 6x6x22's from my sawmill guy who provided the 2x12's, the 3x6's, and on the long poles, he could not come through.

he charges .50 to .55 per board foot for oak, and I love it, it is nearly twice as strong as yellow pine, and of course, a 2x12 for me is actually 2 inches plus thick, most are 2 1/18 to 2 1/4 by my tape, along with a full 12 1/4 wide. and it looks beefy. also the kneww braces are oak, but with the new poles I had them cut 3 x 5.5 to match the planed dimensions of the new treated poles. nice thing also, he charges no sales tax. I don't ask questions.

he would not or could not cut 22 foot 6x6's, although he said he could last month for 33 bucks each. but he did sell me 16 treated pine poles for 56 bucks each. ouch, but it got worse. he had no more and could get no more, so I had to buy 12 more locally from a lumber place, for 89 bucks plus tax. This turned out to be a good deal after I shopped around, Lowe's and Home depot wanted 110 and 125 bucks for the same thing.

so my original budget of 33 bucks times 28 poles, aprox 900 bucks, grew to 2200 bucks in a period of 24 hours.

you know how they say you need to figure on spending 15-25% moe than your planning to spend? I was planning on spending 10-11 grand. so I built in a cushion of 2 grand. 1 grand of cushion got ate on the poles before the holes were dug. sheesh.

also, since I already had the concrete pad, larger in some areas than needed, he still has to cut through some of the concrete with a diamond hot saw and then dig the holes with the post hole digger.

posts, hopefully will go up this week. when I get back from cruise, hopefully headers and knee braces are up. I will have to through bolt headers through poles and lag bolt knee braces because my builder feels that is overkill. I don't. I hate wind and snow. they will not take down this building. well, not regular stuff anyway.

David Gretzmier
01-23-2010, 05:06 PM
400 for concrete on the posts, 5 yards. building at $4168 total. still no pics. sorry. currently in carribean, construction going on without me. when I left town, concrete squares were cut in pad for the rest of the holes, all holes were dug through concrete, poles were getting staked for concrete.

David Gretzmier
02-01-2010, 12:26 PM
just got back from carribean and was gonna post a picture, and I think it is attached. but If it does not work, don't throw rocks at me. I will describe what is happening in the photo. the poles are up, concreted in well, some of the headers and knee braces are in. it looks like he has put the headers on one side of the poles on the sides, and no headers yet on the front or back. he did an excellent job getting very close to my current storage building, just leaving enough room for gutters to go in between the new and old building.

He used hot dipped galvanized ring shank 3 1/2 inch .131 nails, and was not stingy with them either, not just tacking them on, but probably 12 per end of 2x 12 header. the knee braces appear to have 5 nails at each end .I will still drill through and bolt all the headers through the poles w/ 4 5/8 inch x 11 inch long grade 5 bolts for each pole, and drill and bolt 2 at the top of the knee braces through the headers, and then use 3/8" x 4 inch long lag bolts at the bottoms of the knee braces to the poles. that should absolutely stop any thought of racking.

again, going to disneyworld with my family tomorrow for 12 days, I hope he can finish the headers and braces by the time I get back, so I can get the header bolting done and start modifying/welding the steel trusses for the roof.

I will try to pay the builder for the work he has done to theis point and update cost if that happens.

David Gretzmier
02-01-2010, 12:29 PM
cool ! the photo worked ! you can also see the height difference in the two buildings. the height of my current shop is about 9 1/2 feet at the edge of the sheet metal on the side. I did not put a tape to the top of the header, but it looks about double the height of my current shop just by looking at the photo.

David Gretzmier
02-01-2010, 07:58 PM
went back by today and took a measurement, looks like it is 18 foot 6 inches tall from the header to ground. also paid the builder for putting up posts, gave a draw on labor for headers, knee braces, materials -paid for the longer headers for the front and back. $2169+ $65 in my costs for washers for the 5/8 bolts. get this- I use 4 bolts per post for headers, 2 bolts per posts for the top of the knee's, so that is 6 x 26 or 150 bolts, and that makes 300 washers. everything about this building adds up quick. so, total $6402.

budget for items still to buy-

23 used steel trusses at 50 bucks each, I will modify for a longer overhang and drill out for lag bolts to bolt to header, 1150 bucks

metal roof, ridge, and edge trim 2500

remaining labor draws to put up trusses, purlins ( goes on top of trusses to secure roof screws) and metal roof, ridge, and edge trim, 2200

misc. 250

remaining budget- 6050.

current projected cost of gigantic carport structure ( no enclosed sides) - 12,500

turf hokie
02-01-2010, 08:05 PM
David,

As much as you think it costs and as much as it hurts. At least you own it. Your 12k budget still doesnt add up to 6 months of rent for me.:cry:

Looking for other options, just cant seem to find any that are viable.

cmturner
02-01-2010, 08:16 PM
Hey David, when you go to enclose the sides how are you going to secure the metal on the side closest to your old building? Just wondering, looks awful close to get in between to screw it up.

David Gretzmier
02-02-2010, 12:48 AM
The building will be lap sided with 1 inch thick, 6 inch wide rough cut oak. I will side the upper part of where the new meets the old, there will be a new gutter that just barely touches the new poles, and the siding will feed water runoff from the new side into the gutters. this is only a temporary solution.

next year I will run new roof joists/purlins from the right header of the new to the peak of the old building, new metal roof to that peak, and side the front of the old building to match the new. At that point the whole thing is enclosed and water tight and one structure rather than 2.

David Gretzmier
02-02-2010, 12:54 AM
to do the above mentioned lap siding for the new building only , will require about 5000 square foot of 1 inch thick by 6 inch wide x 8-9 foot oak boards. cost wise this is another 2500 bucks, along with about 300 bucks for stainless steel #7x3inch square drive or star drive screws.

I am hoping to get this done this year as well, but I can do this on as money available basis as well.

hotrod1965
02-02-2010, 10:08 AM
wow, you have more snow than we do right now....


just got back from carribean and was gonna post a picture, and I think it is attached. but If it does not work, don't throw rocks at me. I will describe what is happening in the photo. the poles are up, concreted in well, some of the headers and knee braces are in. it looks like he has put the headers on one side of the poles on the sides, and no headers yet on the front or back. he did an excellent job getting very close to my current storage building, just leaving enough room for gutters to go in between the new and old building.

He used hot dipped galvanized ring shank 3 1/2 inch .131 nails, and was not stingy with them either, not just tacking them on, but probably 12 per end of 2x 12 header. the knee braces appear to have 5 nails at each end .I will still drill through and bolt all the headers through the poles w/ 4 5/8 inch x 11 inch long grade 5 bolts for each pole, and drill and bolt 2 at the top of the knee braces through the headers, and then use 3/8" x 4 inch long lag bolts at the bottoms of the knee braces to the poles. that should absolutely stop any thought of racking.

again, going to disneyworld with my family tomorrow for 12 days, I hope he can finish the headers and braces by the time I get back, so I can get the header bolting done and start modifying/welding the steel trusses for the roof.

I will try to pay the builder for the work he has done to theis point and update cost if that happens.

David Gretzmier
02-16-2010, 12:18 AM
updates- having to make some changes.

The trusses I planned on using were used 4:12 pitch metal scissor trusses that are used in chicken houses. They come in halves ( 1 7 foot leg and 1/2 span with bolt holes to attatch to other half) with the legs already welded on them. I was going to cut off the legs and use only the tops. since they are used, I doubled the amount normally used when new.

went to pick up the metal trusses and called this morning to confirm. when I arrived at the city 45 minutes away with my helper, box van, generator, circ. saw, cord, sawhorses, to cut off the legs of the trusses. He has only 5 full spans of the 34 foot wide ones. I wasted a half a day discovering this and now I have to go to another more expensive used source or use new and more expensive new wood trusses.

I'll know prices tomorrow. but I would count on it being more.

it gets better.

I had asked my builder to leave me through bolt spaces when he used an air nailer to put up the headers. he did not, and after trying to do just one post and not being able to drill through all the nails on both sides, I have had to give up on it. luckily he has not put both sides of headers on the 12 posts on the old building side, so I will put those headers up, be super careful and only tack nails at the very top and bottom, can drill and bolt those. the others will have to be lag bolted, which is only 25 percent as stong.

how frustrating to buy grade 5, 11 inch long 5/8 bolts ( and the washers, and the nuts,) that are super strong, and not be able to use them.

got about 30 lags in today, will make more progress tomorrow.

David Gretzmier
02-19-2010, 01:21 AM
All headers either bolted or lagged, all knee braces bolted, lagged, done, all headers in, and prices are in on different trusses-

and yes, of course, way higher. 89 bucks each for 34 foot wide scissor truss, with 5:12 pitch on top and 2.5:12 on bottom, 2 foot overhang, built for 4 foot centers. 23 trusses is about 2100 bucks+200 tax

also got a bid for 99 bucks per scissor truss for 6:12 pitch on top and 3:12 on bottom for 4 foot centers. 2300 bucks +250 tax

or put another way, should I pay 250 extra bucks for 6 inches more space on my 10 foot wide rack in the middle of the building? probably not.

budget buster- 1100 more bucks for trusses. ouch. put another way, that 1100 bucks is almost half of what it would cost to purchase the rough cut oak for the siding of the entire building.

I may have an unexplored 3rd option, I have found some used steel 4:12 pitch40 foot trusses that i could modify to have a 3-4 foot overhang and then span the 34 foot shop. since those are made to span 40 feet, and originally 10 foot centers, they are heavier, I might put those on 8 foot centers and go to 2x6 purlins. cost wise might be 1100 for 12 trusses and a bump of 300 bucks for going to 2x6's from 2x4's. and more headroom between trusses for storage....

David Gretzmier
03-15-2010, 11:50 PM
Thought I'd update this thread to basically say that not much has happened as I have been gone almost 4 weeks out of the last 5. I am still waiting on the metal trusses as I found a gentleman that was tearing down a 40 foot wide chicken house. that should be happening this week or next. I will update when I have them on property and take some photos.

David Gretzmier
04-10-2010, 05:59 PM
Ok. Finally got trusses and started modifying them for my building. I will try to take some photo's today. The trusses are used, a scissor style steel web truss, and came with short legs that we have already removed. For the record, if you have to cut a bit of angle iron steel, a Dewalt XP 7 1/4 inch metal abrasive blade is the way to go. I went through a c-5 carbide metal cutter blade and a cheaper abrasive blade cutting off the first 3 legs 24. I cut the next 21 legs off using 2 Dewalt blades. and they look like they could cut another 20 legs.

the trusses come in halves and bolt together in the middle, They have L brackets welded on top to screw the 2x4 purlins up top 24" on center, and they also come with "k" braces, basically legths of angle iron that bolt to the bottom of the truss and then screw at an angle to the purlins as well to keep things from racking.

I will be working this week to weld brackets on the bottom chord of the trusses to rest them on the 2x12 headers and posts. since these are trusses made for a 40 foot wide building, they are a bit heavier built than the original 34 foot wide ones I wanted. they are also designed for a 10 foot spacing, and I will shrink that to 8, along with shrinking the span to 34 foot instead of 40. So it will be overbuilt a bit.

I am not going to cut off the extra length, but rather cantilever the bottom and top chord over the header, and have a 4 1/2 foot over hang. This will actually help me out on snow load over the main roof, as snow load outside of the header actually creates an upforce on the top chord. another upside is this longer overhang gets me closer to "marrying" the roof pitch of the new building to the roof pitch of the other when I continue the run down the roof. when I get the trusses up I will take a photo and explain that better.

The fun part is welding the brackets on there. needless to say the entire weight of the roof will fall on my welding skills for these brackets, so it kinda has to be right. I also have to allow some wiggle room as the posts may be dead on straight at the bottom, but not so much 20 feet up. The important thing will be for the roofline and trusses to all light up perfectly for the purlin backets.
added some 1/2 bolts and some screws and such, about 50 bucks, and total
cost at this point, 12 trusses, 85 each, plus a helper for 6 hours to cut and load unload, plus a few metal cutting blades, 1160 added to total, $7562 so far.

David Gretzmier
04-29-2010, 11:18 PM
gonna try to post some new photo's of what is currently going on. I finally got the used steel trusses from the guy who takes down chicken houses. They are for 40 foot wide building with an 18 inch overhang, and the 40 foot width would include a 20 inch wide leg on the inside. I cut off the 7 foot tall legs, and that leaves me with a truss that has about an 18 inch overhang on the bottom chord, and about a 4 foot overhang on the top chord, or the top where the purlins and metal goes.

if you need a primer on roofing 101- the purlins are 2x4's that run on thier skinny side from truss to truss. they are screwed into the trusses in the small metal plates that run perpendicular on the top chord in the photo's. the purlins are spaced every 2 feet, and there are 12 of them per half truss.

I also included a close up of how I have modified these trusses to go on my building. on the bottom chord, I have welded 3 pieces of angle iron. one 5 inch piece runs out, and 2 15 inch pieces span that and the bottom chord. this creates a level place to set the trusses on the top pf my two headers and posts.

I have predrilled one of the pieces of angle iron to accept 3/8 inch lag bolts. the holes are spaced 1 and 1/2 inches apart, and the 15 inch space allows the builder to deal with the fact the top of the 20 foot wall height varies by 2 inches in width because of the 6 inch poles at the top warping or twisting. so although the poles plus headers will be 8 1/2 inches wide, I nearly doubled that to perfectly square/true up all the trusses for a perfect ridge and flat roof sides.

If you had seen these poles when I got them, you would have seen they were ramrod straight. and they were. but even though the headers have been on them, they want to go the way they want to go. so the metal brackets at the bottom of the trusses allow for that. the poles are just about perfect at the bottom, you could run a string and get less than a 1/4 inch play all the way down it's 88 foot length. I hope the roof will be the same.

since these trusses are designed to fo on a 40 foot wide building and this is a 34, they are much heavier to handle the larger span, and I went with 8 foot on center instead of 4 foot centers. so 24 halves or 12 full spans. I have finished welding brackets on 21 of 24 halves, and will finish them tomorrow if weather cooperates. I will then pressure wash them and spray them with ospho, which is a rust converter/black primer to stop the rusting and give them a decent finish. I will finish that process next week, and the trusses hopefully go up 2 weeks from today.

I have chosen a dark green metal roof, the new white polycarbonate ridge light ( more on that later) and tan trim. The oak siding will have a reddish stain, so I think all of that will look good together. I did a mock up of the oak siding that I will take a photo of tomorrow on one wall.

Let's see if the photo's attatch.

David Gretzmier
04-29-2010, 11:37 PM
yay ! I am always happy when it works. the angle iron used was 3/16 and 1/4" thick 2x2 steel. very heavy duty. all seams fully mig welded.

money spent- angle iron and metal cutter blades, about 80 bucks. so 7562 plus 80 is 7642. but big expenses coming.

the new roof will be larger than originally budgeted because of larger overhangs of the larger trusses, which I like, but gotta pay for it. also, the original bid did not include a 2 foot overhang in the front and back. it just looks better. I also went to #1 45 year baked on color metal, as opposed to silver galvanized. the price of steel has creeped up over the 3 months or so since I started, and I finally added a "ridgelight" mentioned above. it replaces the steel ridge line piece with a translucent polycarbonate similar to the skylight roof panels, except it is made for a ridge. it lets light in and I went full length of the building. all of thse items add to costs, so I am at 3500 bucks for my metal materials for the roof. that includes everything- screws, facia board covers, "rat guard" " rake and corner" etc. you will learn what these terms mean when you build your building. I did.

I will need additional purlins because the roof is larger. I am hoping this is less than 500 bucks. but who knows.

my builder is still due 2000 bucks, but he will probably ask for more money because the roof is larger. I will counter that he is only doing half the trusses originally bid, and I had to finish putting up the headers that he was also getting paid for. I am hoping for a wash.

so my estimated finish line costs are over 13,500 but less that 14k at this point. but that is mostly my fault for larger trusses ( more purlins and more metal) and the best quality roof metal choices that make that extra square footage cost even more. . I could cut the extra off the trusses and use cheaper roof metal as originally bid. but not really the way I want to go right now.

David Gretzmier
04-29-2010, 11:51 PM
and just a miscellaneous thought to leave you with.

In getting a quote for the whole list of stuff you need for a metal roof, I have an interesting factoid for you. a 22 foot long side of a truss, on an 88 foot long building with a 2 2 foot overhangs on the gable ends, and 2 inch overhang for gutters, is about 2000 square foot per side of roof. my entire roof is about 4000 sqare feet. they reccomend 100 screws per "square" or per 100 square foot.

or 4000 screws to attatch all the metal to my building. 4000 screws ! color matched to the metal, They have silicone washer to self seal, but that is 400 bucks in screws ! They come 250 per bag, and I need 16 bags !

David Gretzmier
06-09-2010, 01:52 AM
man, 5 weeks later and It appears that in the next week or so my builder is finally going to put on the trusses,purlins and metal roof. I hope it is a go. I will try to take photos of progress. money will be flowing the net few days to buy some more purlins and the metal roof and trim, I will update that as well.

David Gretzmier
06-11-2010, 11:09 PM
yay ! progress always feels good. trusses are up- photo hopefully below:

David Gretzmier
06-11-2010, 11:10 PM
cool, that worked ! purlins are 95% done, photo below

David Gretzmier
06-11-2010, 11:12 PM
and did a small section of wall just to see what the 1 inch thick rough cut oak lap siding will look like installed:

starc
06-11-2010, 11:20 PM
Nice big building...
I don't really know but for some reason the trusses look backwards ?

David Gretzmier
06-11-2010, 11:28 PM
cost updates- money spent- gave builder 1000 more for his labor out of 3200. To add snow strength he wants to add a 20 foot, 2 inch tall and 2 inch wide 1/8 inch thick steel collar tie welded to top and bottom chords of trusses ( to make a medium triangle in the middle ), bought those today, 275 bucks, plus another 275 for his labor to do that. ( I have not paid that yet) That should happen monday pending weather. bought 800 metal to wood screws to attatch purlins to steel trusses, 84 bucks. bought additional 2x4x18's and a few 2x4x12's, 225 bucks. rented a lift for one day so they had 3 lifts to do trusses. 140 bucks. add it up- 1849 out plus previous total of 7642 is 9491. still need to pay builder around 1500 bucks and pay for the roof which should be around 3500.

decided to drop the ridge light because of various discussions with my builder, addtional purlin clips needed to be welded on the trusses, he does not like them, etc, etc. so I went with the traditional steel ridge. frustrating to want something and not be able to get it. but life goes on. it should save me about 200 bucks, maybe.

really frustrated at spending another 550 on the trusses. You try to save money by going used, theyare twice as strong as wood, but no matter, I will never use used trusses again, the next building will be brand new red iron I beams. You live and learn.

I am excited that the building finally is starting to look like a building. roof should be on by wednesday evening.

David Gretzmier
06-15-2010, 12:39 AM
on the back ward truss thing- I would agree that it makes more sense to me too to have more bulk in the middle and less near the headers/sides of the building. but looking at most steel trusses, both I beam and web trusses, they both get skinny as you go towards the middle of a building.

on the bigness, it has a 26 foot peak and 19 foot sides at the header top ( plus the high side of the truss adds about 18 inches to that) , with a 4 foot overhang on the sides and 2 foot overhang on the front and back peak. the old metal building beside it has just over 9 foot sidewall.

bought more screws today and 120 nuts for the 3/8 bolts on the angle braces that go between the purlins and the trusses. spent 34 bucks.

David Gretzmier
06-16-2010, 10:07 PM
finally paid for roof, 3479 bucks. ouch. bought a few 2x4's ( 30 bucks ) for bracing some stuff. bought the 5 guys working some gaterade in that 30 bucks too. roof metal not on yet, all collar ties welded on ( the previously mentioned 20 foot long 2x2 x 1/8" thich steel angle iron), all angle brackets, and x braces are in. on metal roof, they had started the "eave trim" which is kind of a drip edge that also covers the 2x4 purlin on the long outside edges where gutters might go. tomorrow, pending weather, they should start the metal roof. also paid for renting a welder to weld the collar ties on the metal trusses- 98 bucks. I have a 110 volt mig welder, but the builder did not feel it was penetrating the metal good enough to stop a snowstorm load on the roof. so I rented a 180 amp gas powered miller.

9491 previous total plus 34 from last post, plus 3479+30+98

new total 13132. new photos below-

David Gretzmier
06-18-2010, 01:52 AM
hoping for 3 photo's here- one of the collar ties, or the bottom brace of the trusses. One of the x braces on the top of trusses. this stops parallelagram like racking. imagine the overhead view of the shop as a square, and the x keeps it square rather than a parallelagram. The final photo should be the angle braces from the bottom of the trusses to the purlins. this also stops racking, but a different direction, it is from running the length of the building, or the tendancy of the trusses to lean over. they also help keep the purlins from bowing under heavy snow loads by using the bottom truss cord strength.

David Gretzmier
06-18-2010, 01:54 AM
half the metal roof on today. got on it, and gotta tell you, the difference between a 45 year roof and whatever I have on the old shop building is immense. that new roof is tight. very solid.

David Gretzmier
06-19-2010, 03:23 PM
roof on building finally done yesterday. looks good and now I must start getting sides put on. as money allows I will close up the west, south, then east sides, then finally figure out the side that abuts the other building. my plan is to extend the new building roof over the old and completely cover the old with new roof and new siding.

David Gretzmier
06-25-2010, 08:53 AM
Starting on the 2x4's on the west side today to close it up. cost estimate- 300 for 2x4's, and 450 for the 1x6 rough cut oak siding. 3 inch stainless screws and tyvek wrap already purchased previously and included in already listed building costs. air nails already purchased previously. photos to come.

David Gretzmier
08-22-2010, 12:16 AM
wow, almost 2 months since last update or photos. got some stuff done, here we go-

David Gretzmier
08-22-2010, 12:25 AM
1st photo is the first front shot I have posted with the roof complete, happy with that, and shows the side with the 6 open bay doors and the 3 window openings. you can also see the front double bottom plate we got in yesterday for the front right to be framed out. anchored that plate with 6, 1/2" "red-head" anchors.

2nd photo is more of a side shot showing the windows and bay door. size is to be noted here. I ordered 4 windows from window world, $220 each includes the cost of the window and labor. the windows are 4 foot wide and 7 feet tall. the bay door openings are aprox 7 foot wide and 10 feet tall. we tried to tyvec paper as we went. top is all framed out above windows and doors and solid walls, just waiting for paper up top and windows to be installed. we can only do siding up to the bottom of the windows until they get here.

3rd photo is how far we have made it up the back wall, about 8.5 feet. we need to paper up the next level, raise up our scaffolding/ladder system to 8' step ladder height. after that is maxed out, I am putting off beyond 13' or so of siding height to spring of '11

David Gretzmier
08-22-2010, 12:34 AM
goals by Sept 13: to finish framing out the front for the 12x12 door, the solid wall to the right of that with the single window opening and do siding up to bottom of that til windows are installed, paper left side above windows and paper back wall and side up to 13-14 feet or so, siding doen up to bottom of 3 windows on left side, 10 lights installed under canopy, and center pallet racks up.

David Gretzmier
08-22-2010, 05:06 PM
money totals- previous total without sides, 13132, plus

the 750 I spent on 2x4's for the back side and oak siding,
plus- 4 windows, not here yet but had to pay half down, so go ahead and list expense here- 880,
rough oak 2x12's and 2x4's for headers on windows and bay doors, 180, stainless steel nails for siding, 110,
regular 2x4's for top and bottom plates, window framing, top of headers, 258
red head anchors for double bottom plate at front and back of shop, 24,
New air compressor ( old one burned out from using it on fraing nailer and siding nailer) $223
Tyvec building paper- 218
staples 9
new total- 13132+750+880+180+110+258+24+223+218+9=

15784.

David Gretzmier
09-08-2010, 07:34 AM
back wall of the shop is done, front is framed and papered, and windows should go in this week. photos to come next week, and we will probably stop construction as Christmas lights start going up next monday.
spent 400 more on boards for siding, and got a heck of a deal on 10,000 coil nails for my air gun. stainless and ring shank, 2 1/2 inches is nearly perfect for 1 inch thick oak boards. only paid 90 bucks shipped, or less than 1 cent per nail. I paid about 4 cents each for the last run of 3 inch stainless naisl, which was a very good price, and about 6-8 cents each for stainless screws. glavanized nails for the gun have been about 2 cents each.
bought a box of 97 4 inch stanley brand brass hinges for 92 bucks shipped. will need 84 of those for barn and loft doors. again, great deal, those are 2.68 each at Lowe's

15784 + 400 +90 +92 is

16366 for my running shop total.

David Gretzmier
11-03-2010, 01:09 AM
someone mentioned storage in another thread, and thought I'd add some updates to this before the season goes crazy. really need to update photos. have enclosed the area on the old building side with temporary metal until we extend the roof from the new shop to the old ( phase 2 below) and we have now finished the siding on the front of the shop with the oak lap. bay door side of shop is still only partially sided with wood, and no doors anywhere yet. basically a 3 and a half sided structure. bought and put up - 26 foot tall pallet racks down the middle with shelving on some,-500 for uprights and 1200 for beams, 400 for shelves and some posts

and put in 22, t8 fluorescent shop lights 13 bucks apiece ( 314 with tax total ) at lowes plus 100 bucks in bulbs, 215 in wire and junction boxes.

have another pile of rough cut 1x6 oak siding sitting around for install season to get over. paid 250 for it.

bought some rough cut cedar for a few barn doors and loft doors, $230.

total paid since last update 16366+500+1200+400+314+100+215+250+230

19755. I feel I need to add some labor here as I have used my guys a bit to put up pallet racks, light fixtures, run wire and put up a bit of siding and paper. I have not kept up with it , but I am betting a few grand out of pocket is not too high or low. I am going to add 3k here to be fair. so total right now with construction stopped for the next 35 days or so is $22755.

although I still have work to do, just was curious about how much per square foot I have paid to this point. shop is 3080 square feet, so I am at 7.38 per foot right now. I am hoping to spend less than 4k to finish siding, soffit, stain, paint, doors, and misc.

to finish the "new side"I still have to buy more siding and put it up for the left- "bay door" side, and 7 double barn doors to build, and some trim to put up. not to mention closing in the area above the header on bay door side for a soffit or something so this building is officially "weather tight", and then staining and painting trim. I will do some of that from install finish time, probably Dec 10 or so til Dec 25, and finish whatever building projects on new side by spring of 2011. also have some concrete fill in work here and there where pad is not done all the way.

the scary thing is then the project moves into phase 2, which then the roof on the right side is extended and new walls cover the old shop. that starts when the new side is mostly finished.

This project may take me 2 more seasons to complete ! when done, hopefully enough storage room for 400 customers and room to work on projects.

M&S_Lawncare
04-20-2011, 11:40 PM
any updates or new pics ???

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 11:54 AM
ok, I will add a few time lapse photos. rainy day here. once I add photos, I will add a few comments in the posts below.

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 11:56 AM
ok, the one above adds header to future 12x12 double barn door, and frames out the 4 foot wide by 7 foot tall windows.

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 11:58 AM
I believe this is a later picture of the back, about 18-19 feeet up with oak siding...

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:04 PM
front is mostly tyvec covered, framed at top and siding started

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:12 PM
I think this is the back with siding done and loft door. you'll also see how we did scaffolding with big brackets attatched to building. forty foot ladder laid down with walk boards and a brace in the middle, and my 5 year old daugher ( 6 now ) at bottom.

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:17 PM
I think it is the front with more siding...

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:20 PM
pallet racks ( I think they wer 26 or 28 footers) on my 23 foot trailer coming from a few states up...

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:21 PM
front is complete without door, I think pallet racks may be up and window in , no doors. that is a 10 foot wreath ( customer moved ) and a 48" HBL bow. The pulley system opens the loft door ( about a 5 foot by 5 foot door ) from inside to vent top on back and front of shop.

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:25 PM
lights on shop...

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:31 PM
I think the bay 6 garage door side as of now..., no doors yet, openings are slightly larger on closer doors on purpose, sort of. you can also see the 4 foot shop lights through soffit on the inside as well. those windows are 4 foot by 7 foot as well.

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:35 PM
close up of doors, cedar...

David Gretzmier
04-27-2011, 12:54 PM
and that is about it for now. I have added hardware to the barn doors that I welded myself, kind of a blacksmith project that involved heating 1 inch solid bar with a torch and bending them, welding and hammering and mig welding, it was a cool old school/new tech way of making really chunky handles, latch, and door stops that look good on a 6 foot by 12 foot barn door. I also trimmed out the building corners with 1x6's oak and did numerous other things.

we sealed in where the old shop meets the new with metal, as that will be covered by the new roof going over the old shop next year as funds allow.
projects coming up this summer as funds allow are 6 sets of doors for the side and staining everything a dark reddish brown with about 20-30 gallons of ready seal. I will buy 5 gallons at a time as I have money.

It still feels like a hay barn at this point, as the bay doors are open and the soffits are open at the top. it is rain tight, but water does come in, but all things inside do stay dry. the shop really needs a drainage system installed as the slab is a bit low, so all floor items are on pallets for now. we had record breaking rain last weekend and water was in shop, but the pallets kept everything fine. so the drainage system has to happen soon as well. when I get a job that pays for a trencher rental I will use that machine to get trenches done.