Ariens snowblower engine replacement recommendations please.

[steven1955]

Hi folks. My question is at the bottom, but first some history.

I have two nearly identical Ariens small frame two stage snowblowers dating from the mid to late 1960s. All parts will interchange except one has a replacement 5 hp Tecumseh Snow King engine and the other has the original 7 hp Tecumseh Snow King engine. Yeah, I wish they were the large frame versions, but they were free. And parts are still available too.

The 5 hp was my dad's. He replaced the original 5 hp Snow King engine when it threw a rod due to a failed governor, and the replacement 5 hp, dating from around 2000, has always seemed underpowered. (I think year 2000 horses are smaller than year 1965 horses.) It ran OK in the fall, but now it runs poorly. Probably carb issues, but I'm not touching it until the spring unless I have to.

The 7 hp was my father-in-laws, and it's in pretty good condition except for the engine. It burned oil when I got it, was hard starting, and now I can't get it to start at all.

Rather than live with the underpowered 5 hp ugly snowblower I think I want to re-engine the 7 hp nice looking 7 snowblower, and use the ugly one as a parts snowblower. I don't mind doing some work to adapt a different 7 to 8.5 hp engine, especially if it's quieter or vibrates less.

What 7 to 8.5 hp engine would you folks recommend?

I'll consider new or even a good used motor.

[rotti1968]

Give Ariens a call and they can give you info for a direct replacement engine for that unit. I may even be able to get you that info tomorrow, we are an Ariens/ Gravley dealer and I'll do a little digging for ya. I would need if you have it the mod# and ser# of the unit you want to replace the engine on.

[steven1955]

I know I can get a direct bolt on Snow King engine, but there are two issues I have with that.

The first issue is that I don't really love the Snow King engine even though it's supposedly one of Tecumseh's best engines. Both the 5 hp and the 7 hp, when it ran, were very noisy and vibrated a lot. (Based on some postings on these forums some would argue any Tecumseh engine is none too good.)

The second issue is I'd like to save some money. (Read that I'm currently unemployed.) I think that there are workable options that will cost less than the official bolt on Tecumseh engine, and hopefully reduce noise and vibration a bit too.

I do know that if I change to another engine I'll likely have to reconfigure the chute control, which my father had to do when he replaced the original 5 hp Snow King with the year 2000 5 hp Snow King engine. I may also have to reconfigure the engine mounting.

That being said, I'll see if I can't get the model numbers off the snow blowers tomorrow.

I did check and saw that there are now overhead valve Tecumseh Snow King engines where the cylinder is canted over instead of vertical. (Is that only Tecumseh in name?) There are also some B&S snow blower engines. I am sure there are others too.

[Shasta Lake Landscaping]

Honda makes one of the best engines IMO.

[betmr]

What you want to do, takes research that really only you can do. If you don't want direct replacement, You are going to need...Crankshaft diameter, mounting bolt pattern, and clearances. Then look for an Engine that meets these criteria. Personally I think you will do yourself a big favor by using whatever Ariens says will fit.

[topsites]

Unfortunately there are no two ways about it, you get a bargain engine or spend big money for reliability, just how it is...
So I suppose it all depends on how much money you want to spend, but from the sound of things you don't seem to mind
working with these bargain engines, more so if the machine doesn't get used a whole lot, probably as well off.

Look at it this way, if the machine sits the better part of the year you're going to have engine and carburetor problems,
I have these issues you speak of with most of my machines that sit around a lot, too, and so I use cheap engines on some.
Not sure if Aggri supply carries any, Grainger, Tractor supply..?

But I'd check out Harbor Freight, they don't carry a big selection but they have a few
nicely priced bargain engines, I'm talking $150-2-300 and it's over, brand new engine.

Another place might be Northern Hydraulics, thou theirs tend to be a little pricier,
I can't say for sure but $3-400 crossed my mind, anyhow there's no telling from
the house so you'll just have to go look at their selection.

Last but not least you might also check out Small engine warehouse, I do believe
they as well carry certain bargain brands, and perhaps Ebay.

You can do most of this online, Briggs & Stratton might be a brand to consider.

[steven1955]

I think I may have given the wrong impression. While I need to save some money, I don't think I want a bargain engine. I've had too many carb issues over the years with the Snow King engines, most notably clogged jets. I just had to replace the carb in a friends five year old Snow King engine due to alcohol/water related corosion. I have a Honda generator that I totally ignore, run old gas in it, and it just starts easy and runs no matter what.

What I meant was that if I go to the local Ariens dealer I'll be paying top dollar. And if I were employed I don't mind supporting them. They're good guys. But now money is tight, so I was going to buy through an internet dealer. At the same time I was hoping to get a nicer motor than the Snow King that's in there now.

I've done engine swaps in cars. I don't think swapping to a different engine in a snowblower will be beyond me.

So, what snowblower engine brand and style do you guys like?

Is the new style Tecumseh Snow King engine with the slanted cylinder any good? Or any better than the old vertical cylinder Snow King engine?

Is the Briggs snowblower engine a better engine than the Tecumseh?

Is a Honda engine, at least the ones they sell today, better than the Snow King?

Are any of the cheap (Harbor Freight) even worth looking at?

[LarryF]

My suggestion is to forget about them and wait another month or so to buy an end-of-season new snowblower from HD or Lowes. I did exactly that a couple of years ago when I was considering spending money on one I had originally bought in the early 1980s. It seemed to me that there had been considerable improvement in snowblower design and manufacture in the last quarter of century, and HD was clearing out its snowblower inventory by selling them for 35 percent off the regular price. So instead of wasting $500 on the old 20-inch, 8HP clunker, I gave it away and spent $700 for a brand new 24-inch, 11.5HP unit. With all the snow we've had in NJ this winter, I'm sure glad I made that decision. If you are really considering investing in the repair of 50-year-old snowblowers, I think that would be a mistake. Normally, I would not advise buying lawn equipment from HD or Lowes, but let's face it, a snowblower gets fired up only 3 or 4 times a year by a homeowner, which I assume is how you will use it. And if it's to be used commercially, then there should be little doubt that you should give up on the old ones and buy something new.

[GravelyNut]

Depending on the shaft size, you could try a Kohler CH270. It puts out about 6 HP under load and would work in the winter. They are setup for warm weather or by changing the air intake housing intake opening position, use in the winter. Cost for one new is under $300.

[steven1955]

rotti1968, here are some of the model and serial numbers you asked for. Due to age I think some of the tags are missing.

The 7 hp:
On the blower: Model 10995, s/n 035352
On the drive unit: No model number found, s/n 011903
On the engine: Model H70-180067 (or H70-130067), s/n 9238 06064

On the 5 hp:
On the blower: No model number found, 7-10M144880
On the drive unit: No model number found, 10M5013409

Do any of these numbers help?

[GravelyNut]

rotti1968, here are some of the model and serial numbers you asked for. Due to age I think some of the tags are missing.

The 7 hp:
On the blower: Model 10995, s/n 035352
On the drive unit: No model number found, s/n 011903
On the engine: Model H70-180067 (or H70-130067), s/n 9238 06064

On the 5 hp:
On the blower: No model number found, 7-10M144880
On the drive unit: No model number found, 10M5013409

Do any of these numbers help?

I tried running the first one thru the Ariens dealer website but it is too old to get the actual build date. The Owner's Manual is available as is the Service Manual. Service Manual says that it is a Model 910995 with that Serial Number and built in 1970.

The second one is a 1968 Model 10M5-013409 with the last 6 numbers being the Serial Number.

[GravelyNut]

I tried running the first one thru the Ariens dealer website but it is too old to get the actual build date. The Owner's Manual is available as is the Service Manual. Service Manual says that it is a Model 910995 with that Serial Number and built in 1970.

The second one is a 1968 Model 10M5-013409 with the last 6 numbers being the Serial Number.

Scratch th 9 on the front. Don't know how that got in there.:dizzy:

[topsites]

And what I'm saying is a Honda is considerably more expensive than a Briggs,
the same dang engine might run you $400 for a Briggs and up to a grand for a Honda,
and that is the reason why you can run the Honda to death and the Briggs
might crap out at a moment's notice.

It's like asking if I can get a Ferrari for a Ford price, the short of that is it ain't happening,
you won't find Honda quality in a Tecumseh and you're as unlikely to find a bargain engine
that runs like a Honda, nor are you very likely to find a Honda-like engine for much under
what it costs.

Yes, Briggs and Tecumseh's are bargain engines.
Conversely, Hondas and Kawasaki's cost near a dang fortune.

So it's one or the other, spend the money and get the high grade engine, or take a chance.

[betmr]

Let me just say this. The problem you are having with Carburetors is not an Engine issue. It's an owner issue. You are not storing these Engines properly. I'm guessing you put them away at the end of the year and forget them. You have to drain the gas out, and run the engine dry. Gasoline, when stored for time, turns to varnish. By leaving it in a stored engine, you are causing a build up of varnish in your Carburetor, which gums up the works. Read your owners manual, and follow their recommendations for long term storage. You don't need an exotic engine, just get the right one, at the right price, and take care of it properly. You're only using it like 5 or 6 time a year. why all the fuss. :hammerhead:

[steven1955]

Let me just say this. The problem you are having with Carburetors is not an Engine issue.
I completely agree with this assessment of the problems I am having with the 5 hp Snow King and my friends 8 hp Snow King. I usually run the carb dry after each use by turning off the valve at the tank, and drain the tank at the end of the snow blowing season. But this fall I forgot to run the carb dry after I got the blower ready for winter. But.... I think it's unreasonable that the roughly two months I left gas in the carb of the 5 hp should be enough to cause the engine go from running well to running poorly. I totally abuse my Honda generator and simply don't get these issues.

Now the 40ish year old 7 hp was abused by the in-laws. The blower itself is very good with very little surface rust attributed to a very dry storage shed. But I don't think they ever changed the oil or drained the gas. But it always was hard to pull the engine start cord, much harder than my friends 5-10 year old 8 hp Snow King. I think between the old design, point style ignition, poor maintenance history, that the 7 hp has a reason to be hard starting. And needs to be replaced if only for the oil burning.

As much as I like the durable construction of these units I see why some here suggest I retire them. I wouldn't want to throw $400 to $500 worth of engine at them when new end of season snowblowers can be had for much less than in the middle of the snow season.

If I can find a sub $300 new engine or a much cheaper used engine, then I'll re engine the nicer 7 hp. If I can't I'll see about cleaning or rebuilding the carb on the 5 hp engine.

I still haven't heard if the new style slant cylinder Tecumseh Snow King engines are any good, or if the equivalent Briggs snowblower engines are any better. Both of those can be had for under $300 shipped on eBay.

[pugs]

I am not familiar with Ariens blowers. Does it use a single shaft engine or does it have an extended Camshaft? Basically are there 2 PTO shafts coming out of the engine??? If there are 2 you will have trouble.

If its a single shaft, Kohler has a new snow engine that should work. Robin/Subaru has a snow engine. Briggs has snow engines. Go with any of those and you should be fine. I would not get another Tecumseh.

[steven1955]

Single shaft from the engine.

[pugs]

Single shaft from the engine.

I know Kohler has a snow engine that is fairly inexpensive. You might want to check with your local dealer about it. They were offering some kind of rebate for repowering with them also I think. Not sure if that deal ended or not. I think its a 7HP 3/4" shaft.

Honda really doesnt offer a snow engine that I am aware of. Most snow engines are built to run in cold weather. Altered cooling systems, no air filter, heater box around the carb....

I would recommend staying away from any off brand chinese stuff.

[GravelyNut]

I know Kohler has a snow engine that is fairly inexpensive. You might want to check with your local dealer about it. They were offering some kind of rebate for repowering with them also I think. Not sure if that deal ended or not. I think its a 7HP 3/4" shaft.

Honda really doesnt offer a snow engine that I am aware of. Most snow engines are built to run in cold weather. Altered cooling systems, no air filter, heater box around the carb....

I would recommend staying away from any off brand chinese stuff.

The one I posted about is that Kohler engine. But be advised, Kohler is having them made in China but giving a 3 year warranty on them.

[rotti1968]

I was waiting on a callback from tech support today for the info. Will not be working tomorrow due to the weather here in NE. Ill have some info on Thursday for you, I did find this info today that may give you a little input to what is needed.
http://smallenginewarehouse.com/RepowerItems.asp?Brand=Ariens&Model=10955

[steven1955]

I was reading that many (all?) of the new snowblower engines are governed to 2800 rpm. (Darn OSHA)

Weren't the original Snow King snow blower engines from the 60s and early 70s governed to 3600 rpm?

[pugs]

The one I posted about is that Kohler engine. But be advised, Kohler is having them made in China but giving a 3 year warranty on them.

Yah, same with the Robin/Subaru snow engine and the new 4 cycles that are going in the Toro single stage machines and every other thing....Honda too.

At least the Kohler one is backed by Kohler...not jing dang dong shen.

[GravelyNut]

At least the Kohler one is backed by Kohler...not jing dang dong shen.

True. Plus they went from a 2-year to 3 year warranty on this engine. They must think it will hold up.

[rotti1968]

Spoke back to tech support today, due to the age of the unit they dont have any info for engine replacement and they suggested calling or dealing with small engine warehouse .

[steven1955]

Thanks rotti1968 for checking with Ariens. It doesn't surprise me at all that they don't have engine replacement data for snow blowers this old. I was expecting to adapt a newer design engine rather than just bolting one on.

That being said, I think I'll strongly consider LarryF's advice to buy a new leftover, that is if there are any leftovers after the major snow we just got this winter. At first I didn't think there were improvements in the design of two stage snowblowers in the last 40 years. After all, they all have augers, high speed impellers, and steerable chutes. But I took a closer look at some new units and there some some subtle changes that could make a lot of difference. For example, the chutes were all straighter and longer, and the tires were larger in diameter, even in the smaller units.

The final straw was that I used my 5 hp and really struggled with it with the wet snow we got in the last storm. Some of the problem was surface rust, but I remember using my dad's old SnowBird way back in the late 60s, and it used to clog a lot even when new. My friends with newer snow blowers don't see his problem a whole lot.

So after the panic snowblower buying is over I'll check for a leftover. (The local Lowes has none and the lawnmowers and gas grills are already on display.) If there are none I'll consider re-engining the nicer 7 hp snowblower if I can find a deal on a new or used engine. I no longer think it's worth putting the cost of a new engine into it.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice.

[LarryF]

That being said, I think I'll strongly consider LarryF's advice to buy a new leftover, that is if there are any leftovers after the major snow we just got this winter. At first I didn't think there were improvements in the design of two stage snowblowers in the last 40 years. After all, they all have augers, high speed impellers, and steerable chutes. But I took a closer look at some new units and there some some subtle changes that could make a lot of difference. For example, the chutes were all straighter and longer, and the tires were larger in diameter, even in the smaller units.



I was too quick with my previous post (#8) regarding the width of what I bought. It's 28" rather than 24". But a couple of other advantages are: (1) The newer one has a shaft that drives the auger; whereas, the 1960 one had a chain running between the wheel axle and the auger, and that chain had failed me a couple of times. It sure wasn't much fun dragging the machine back into the garage during a snow storm. I think I may still have some spare links if anyone wants them. (2) The newer one also has a traction-drive clutch which can be engaged with a left-hand-operated lever, and that makes sharp turns pretty easy. My 1960 snowblower had to be manually horsed around for such turning which was hard to do when the snow was heavy and wet. (3) The newer one has electric start, but I have to admit that I haven't really needed it yet since so far it has always fired up with the first pull of the rope. (4) The newer one has lights that are very bright, just in case you ever have to work on the snow at night. And, of course, the newer one with a bigger engine, is much more powerful.

Happy hunting and good luck to you.

[VegetiveSteam]

I'd check into the new 7hp Kohler snow engine. Around 275.00 retail and it is sweet. I've seen one put on an Ariens. It worked nice. The Kohler part number is WH208-0004. And as mentioned in earlier posts it has a 3 year warranty backed by Kohler dealers coast to coast. It also has a 3/4" shaft 2.42" long with a 3/16 keyway tapped 5/16-24UNF.

[VegetiveSteam]

The one I posted about is that Kohler engine. But be advised, Kohler is having them made in China but giving a 3 year warranty on them.

And to add to that note Honda, Briggs and Kawasaki are making engines in China as well.

[steven1955]

Hey, VegetiveSteam, that's my snowblower.http://www.lawnsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177581&stc=1&d=1266255753
How well does it handle wet snow? That's where my 5 hp Ariens fall down on the job.

[VegetiveSteam]

From what I've been told on this unit wet snow really wasn't an issue. Didn't throw it quite as far of course but threw it quite well.

[TGM]

i'm not sure if you know, but Tecumseh went out of business 1 year and 2 months ago. so if you're looking for another tecumseh engine, call around to see if any are in stock. The Kohler above would be a good engine

[steven1955]

The 7 hp Kohler engine has a published spec of:
7 HP Gross - 6 HP Net @ 3600 RPM's

How does this compare to the 7 hp Snow King engine? If I do re-engine my nicer 7 hp Ariens I'd want no less power than what is on their now. I consider being the equivalent of the 7 hp Snow King to be the minimum hp I'd like to see installed. My other Ariens with the 5 hp Snow King could always have used more power.

I know torque is what matters, but if all of the engines are rated at the same rpm then hp will be proportional to torque. Unfortunately the engines I've seen specs for are rated at rpms ranging from 2800 to 3600.

[TGM]

Kohler is a better built engine than Tecumseh. The thing i do like about the tecumseh snow king is the overhead valve design (like i said, if you can even find a new engine... i do see them listed on northern tool).

[steven1955]

The Kohler is an OHV engine, as are the most recent Tecumseh and Briggs snow blower engines. My older Snow King engines are flathead engines.

[TGM]

yes, i'd recommend the Kohler any day over the tecumseh. in any engine i prefer an over head valve compared to a flat head. when you have valve issues they are easier to work on. personally, lapping valves is a pita on a flat head engine.. and i don't think it's worth it doing on a $400 engine when you compare costs.

like i said, you may not be able to find tecumseh engines in stock..or it may be difficult to find what you want. i've been having issues trying to get tecumseh carbs as they have been looking for new manufacturers for the parts.

now, i did hear a rumor that someone was looking to buy the tecumseh plant.. i don't know anything beyond that...:confused:

[steven1955]

So if I do re engine my Ariens with the ancient 7 hp Snow King, assuming that I don't find a good deal on a good used engine, it's likely I'll use either the Kohler or a Briggs snow engine. I have no interest in purchasing a new Snow King engine.

But I still had a question on the Kohler's power. I'd like to make sure that the replacement engine is at least as powerful as the ancient 7 hp Snow King, but I can't tell from the specs.

It also appears that the Kohler is currently only available in the one size. Briggs engines are available in several horsepower ratings and it looks like they can be aluminum cylinder engines or the better Intek sleeved engines.

[TGM]

yeah, there are plenty of different briggs engines available. i would have to do some research to find a good replacement engine (make sure the bolt holes are the same and that the shaft size is the same... or you then have to find a different replacement pulley).

are there any engines that you're really interested in? model #'s?

[steven1955]

I know this is an old thread, but it is my old thread. My old Ariens was mostly successfully re-engined with a Harbor Freight Item # 66015 Greyhound engine. I wasn't originally wanting to go to a Chonda (Chinese Honda) engine, but fortuitous timing of a sale and a 20% off coupon got me the engine and an extended 2 year warranty for $99.98.

Here's the final result pre snow:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/steven1955/Snowblower%20Re-Engine/IMGP4519.jpg

The engine itself appears to be of very high quality except for the sheet metal and gas tank. Castings were nicely finished and the output shaft was nicely finished and the steel was not at all soft. After adding oil and gas it started on the third or fourth pull, and after 30 seconds or so of warm up it idled smoothly.

Installation was easy with respect to the engine. The studs on the Ariens frame, just long enough for the sheet steel base of the original Tecumseh engine, had to be removed and replaced with longer bolts with locking nuts. The pulley fit perfectly. The only change was the inch sized bolts for the belt cover had to be replaced with metric near equivalent bolts.

The hardest part of the re-engining was rerouting the chute control, which would have been necessary on any modern engine with a slanted cylinder. I had to install two u joints in the shaft, but the chute control is now positioned in a more convenient position than it was originally positioned.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/steven1955/Snowblower%20Re-Engine/IMGP4516.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/steven1955/Snowblower%20Re-Engine/IMGP4518.jpg

I also de-rusted the inside of the auger housing, high speed impellor and impellor housing, and chute, and then painted them with POR15. (Don't look too closely at the POR15. I applied it with a brush in cold weather. It's a crappy looking paint job.)

How does it work? This engine runs more smoothly than either the 5 hp or 7 hp Tecumseh Snow King engines I've run ever ever did, and it throws the snow further than the 7 hp engine did.

The POR15 so far seems great, with not even one incidence of clogging. On the other hand neither snow storm supplied me with wet or slushy test snow.

Observant readers may have noticed that I said the conversions was mostly successful. Mostly because this engine is not a snow engine, and as a result I have experienced a couple of incidences of carb icing. (Two snow storms, two incidences of icing.) A two minute shutdown melts the ice, and all is well. I think this is due to the near full speed operation of the engine. If there was significant time at part throttle I think icing would be a big issue.

So I may leave it alone. Or I may try to alter the air intake to draw warm air from around the muffler to eliminate carb icing.

Knowing what I do now know I would do this conversion again. The total cost of engine, misc nuts and bolts, two u joints, POR15 urethane paint, a cheap Harbor freight siphon sand blaster, and sand was under $175. I got the elbow grease for free.

[fatboynormmie]

Nice job on the cheap, it looks good and for home use it will probably last you the rest of your life.

[pugs]

I know this is an old thread, but it is my old thread. My old Ariens was mostly successfully re-engined with a Harbor Freight Item # 66015 Greyhound engine. I wasn't originally wanting to go to a Chonda (Chinese Honda) engine, but fortuitous timing of a sale and a 20% off coupon got me the engine and an extended 2 year warranty for $99.98.

I wouldnt bother saving your extended warranty...its about as good as toliet paper. Good luck.

[dutch1]

My experience as a small engine mechanic has not been good with the Chinese Honda clones(Jong Deng, as I recall). I had two customers who purchase portable air compressors with the clone. Neither lasted past the second day--exhaust valve hung up. I suggested that they be returned to the selling dealer. Dealer didn't want to discuss the problem--referred customers to a rep 200+ miles away. Neither received any satisfaction/warranty. Since the units were rather inexpensive to begin with, they chalked it up to experience.

The last problem I encountered was with a generator(Eastern Tool) with the same engine. Owner complained of leaking oil. Started it up on my lift and inside of 2 minutes it was pouring oil out of the flywheel side of the engine. Searched all avenues for a replacement crank seal. Found one source but it was going to cost $35 plus shipping. The old seal was hanging on the crankshart and the double lipped seal did not appear to have any wear so I used some Hi-Tac and reinstalled. I let it set for 24 hours and restarted the unit. After running for a couple of minutes everything appeared normal. I let it run and started on something else. Five minutes later I notice oil pouring out of the generator side of the engine--blew the seal on the output t side. Could not disconnect the generator for the crankshaft--no set screws of any kind. Finally called Eastern Tool tech department and was told that the generator shaft and crankshaft were tapered and were attached by a high tech adhesive. On top of that, I enquired about replacement parts and was informed that engine parts were no longer available, on a unit that was less than 2 years old.

[steven1955]

Pugs, Dutch1,

Sorry to hear that you think so badly of the Chinese clone engines. I will say that I did some homework before buying the Harbor Freight "Chonda" engine.

The Harbor Freight Greyhound engines are made by Lifan. The Lifan clone engines, from my web research, have a good reliability. Reliable enough that there's a go cart racing series based on the Lifan clone of the Honda GX200 engine. Non Lifan engines are not welcome. The engine accepts being hopped up, although if the flywheel and connecting rod need to be replaced with stronger bits if the engine is to be run 4500 rpm or faster. My engine will only run at the factory setting for governed maximum rpm.

With respect to Harbor Freight's extended warranty being only worth as much as "toilet paper", I'll add that I did a bit of homework here too. I've read a number of on line reviews on Harbor Freight's warranty, and for the most part they were honored. There does seem to be some variation how warranties are handled that seem to be store dependent. I talked with a few folks who needed the local store (Christiana, Delaware) to process a warranty claim, and they went away with a new whatever-it-was-that failed. No engine claims, though.

With respect to parts availability.... From what I've read and from what I've seen on my particular engine, parts are interchangeable with the real Honda GX200 engines. I'll need something to break before I can test that. And if something breaks I may be testing the warranty first.

There's a lot of bad feelings about the cheap Chinese imports here and on most other forums I frequent. I'd rather buy American, but even the Briggs and Kohler snow engines I also considered were also Chinese made. I figured that if Chinese engines were my only choices in new 5-7 hp snow engines I might as well buy the cheapest one that research suggested would be reliable.

[pugs]

The last problem I encountered was with a generator(Eastern Tool) with the same engine. Owner complained of leaking oil. Started it up on my lift and inside of 2 minutes it was pouring oil out of the flywheel side of the engine. Searched all avenues for a replacement crank seal. Found one source but it was going to cost $35 plus shipping. The old seal was hanging on the crankshart and the double lipped seal did not appear to have any wear so I used some Hi-Tac and reinstalled. I let it set for 24 hours and restarted the unit. After running for a couple of minutes everything appeared normal. I let it run and started on something else. Five minutes later I notice oil pouring out of the generator side of the engine--blew the seal on the output t side. Could not disconnect the generator for the crankshaft--no set screws of any kind. Finally called Eastern Tool tech department and was told that the generator shaft and crankshaft were tapered and were attached by a high tech adhesive. On top of that, I enquired about replacement parts and was informed that engine parts were no longer available, on a unit that was less than 2 years old.

FYI most every small portable generator will use an engine with a tapered shaft. There will never be a set screw on a generator. The other method that is sometimes used is similar to a pump where the rotor threads onto the engine shaft.

[dboyd351]

Pugs, Dutch1,

Sorry to hear that you think so badly of the Chinese clone engines. I will say that I did some homework before buying the Harbor Freight "Chonda" engine.

The Harbor Freight Greyhound engines are made by Lifan. The Lifan clone engines, from my web research, have a good reliability. Reliable enough that there's a go cart racing series based on the Lifan clone of the Honda GX200 engine. Non Lifan engines are not welcome. The engine accepts being hopped up, although if the flywheel and connecting rod need to be replaced with stronger bits if the engine is to be run 4500 rpm or faster. My engine will only run at the factory setting for governed maximum rpm.

With respect to Harbor Freight's extended warranty being only worth as much as "toilet paper", I'll add that I did a bit of homework here too. I've read a number of on line reviews on Harbor Freight's warranty, and for the most part they were honored. There does seem to be some variation how warranties are handled that seem to be store dependent. I talked with a few folks who needed the local store (Christiana, Delaware) to process a warranty claim, and they went away with a new whatever-it-was-that failed. No engine claims, though.

With respect to parts availability.... From what I've read and from what I've seen on my particular engine, parts are interchangeable with the real Honda GX200 engines. I'll need something to break before I can test that. And if something breaks I may be testing the warranty first.

There's a lot of bad feelings about the cheap Chinese imports here and on most other forums I frequent. I'd rather buy American, but even the Briggs and Kohler snow engines I also considered were also Chinese made. I figured that if Chinese engines were my only choices in new 5-7 hp snow engines I might as well buy the cheapest one that research suggested would be reliable.

I think you did an excellent job of getting that old equipment up and running again.

People say they don't want you to buy Chinese junk because it is junk and will just add to the landfills, but if you had not done what you did, you'd be adding 2 snow blowers to the landfill.

Some Harbor Freight stuff is junk and some is a very good deal. There is even a 800 W 2 stroke generator they sell that makes wierd noises, but seems to keep running forever - read the dozens of reviews, you'll see.
Also my experience with Harbor Freight warrenties is what you found out - it it is within the warrenty period, they usually just replace it no questions asked.

You did the research, so hopefully you've found one of the Harbor freight bargains.

On top of all that, it is getting harder and harder to find things not made in China, regardless of the manufacturer. In the past year or so I've bought a Ruger air rifle that was made in China a Fin-nor reel that was made there. Both of which have always been very highly respected American brands. Neither told you ahead of time the product was made in China and both actually appear very solid and well made.

There is also the part of the equation, that so much stuff is now sold over the Internet and you can't examine it before you buy it.

I'd far rather buy a really well made American product, too, but American manufacturing has largely priced themselves out of the game by demanding $30-$40 an hour plus benefits for assembly line jobs and you still never know if parts or subassemblies were farmed out overseas by American firms, so consistent quality isn't there.

This probably isn't a popular sentiment, but I think a large part of our overseas outsourcing problems are self-inflicted.

[TGM]

sure, we do need the chinese cheap stuff in the market, however, my customers with these new chinese-engined products are having all sorts of stupid issues. ...but that's what you get when you buy a new two stage mtd snowblower from walmart for $518 :rolleyes:

(i run a small engine service business and don't landscape much anymore)