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View Full Version : Ryan Lawnaire IV problem


SOONERS222
02-20-2010, 11:01 PM
Ok guys I need some help... My Ryan is running terrible. It has a Honda engine and is only three yrs old... It has been sputtering like crazy. It will run great for an hour or two and then it will stop. It may run great for a couple of jobs, and then I load up and drive down the road and aerate a very small yard and it will sputter 3 or 4 times. It may run great for 2 or 3 days and then be a pain for a week straight. The problem is that it will run like the choke is on for a couple of minutes and then it will stop. Also, I have had two machanics look it over and they think everything looks great. I cleaned the carb., the bowl, the gas, changed the oil, changed air filter, etc... Any suggestions? thanks

EastCoast
02-21-2010, 12:11 AM
Has the spark plug and fuel filter also been changed?

DiyDave
02-21-2010, 09:38 AM
Has the spark plug and fuel filter also been changed?

Ya beat me to it. Check the plug $3.00, worth of aggravation. I had one where the porcelain insulator was completely loose, would rattle around till it shorted out!

betmr
02-21-2010, 10:39 AM
1.) How did you clean the Carburetor? 2.) Did you check the Magneto and Fly Wheel, for rust and corrosion? and reset the air gap. Does it have a fuel filter?

BIOGRASS
02-21-2010, 07:06 PM
my suggestion . . . sell it, Ryan stinks.

SOONERS222
02-21-2010, 08:39 PM
1.) How did you clean the Carburetor? 2.) Did you check the Magneto and Fly Wheel, for rust and corrosion? and reset the air gap. Does it have a fuel filter?

I blew out the carb with air and put a mixture (name escapes my memory)with gas that was suuposed to clean everything up.

SOONERS222
02-21-2010, 08:48 PM
1.) How did you clean the Carburetor? 2.) Did you check the Magneto and Fly Wheel, for rust and corrosion? and reset the air gap. Does it have a fuel filter?

Also I will check everything you mentioned... I'm not sure how to reset the air gap?? Can you clarify. Thanks for the help

betmr
02-21-2010, 09:24 PM
Also I will check everything you mentioned... I'm not sure how to reset the air gap?? Can you clarify. Thanks for the help

I will use this quote to start. The fly wheel has a magnet that excites the magneto. If you remove the magneto to clean any corrosion on it and the fly wheel (with Emmery cloth or similar), you will need to set the "Air Gap" between the magneto & flywheel. This is the little space between them, as they are not to touch. The way I set this is to get a business card. With the magneto loosely bolted in place and the magnet away from the magneto, I put the card in between them. Then turn the flywheel so the magnet pulls the magneto against it, with the card in between. Then while it is like that, tighten down the magneto. After the magneto is tight, remove the business card, or matchbook cover. And presto, the air gap is set. Turn the flywheel fully around to be sure nothing is hitting, and your in bid-ness.

Now allow me to discuss the Carburetor. Unless it has been removed, taken ALL apart and cleaned thoroughly with solvent type Carburetor/Choke cleaner, It has not been totally cleaned. The parts that are trouble are most likely inside. As Gasoline ages it turns to varnish, which in turn gums up the small passages, ports and needle valves. Restricting the flow of fuel. As this is an aerator, I don't guess it gets all that much use year round, and gas left in it for periods of time is probably causing your problems. In the future, once you have fixed this, may I suggest you refrain from leaving gas in it for any length of time (say no more than 20-30 days, maybe even less).

When you store it, Drain the tank, run it till it's dry, pull the spark plug and add a tablespoon of motor oil in the cylinder, turn it over a few times to coat the cylinder walls. Put the spark plug back in. And next time you start it, with fresh gas and a clean carb.

turfcobob
02-22-2010, 11:10 AM
Check your gas cap to make sure it is venting and not causing a vacum in the gas tank. Are the fuel lines clean and does it have a filter.

dave50kate
02-22-2010, 01:50 PM
When you store it, Drain the tank, run it till it's dry, pull the spark plug and add a tablespoon of motor oil in the cylinder, turn it over a few times to coat the cylinder walls. Put the spark plug back in. And next time you start it, with fresh gas and a clean carb.

Marvel Mystery Oil

sweetjetskier
02-22-2010, 02:27 PM
I have owned many Honda motors, 4, 5.5, 6.5 and 9 hp.

Not one had a fuel filter.

They have a sediment bowl on the carb, clean that well, all the crap sits there
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naughty62
03-04-2010, 02:52 PM
my guess is youre gonna need a carburetor kit soon .Stay away for places that sell summer grade fuels containing mtbe .Our small engine mechanic read us the riot act about letting summer gradefuels with mtbe and 10-e set in tanks or cans over winter.soon or later its gonna raise hell seats floatvalves and jets.I am definely not a honda small engine .

RigglePLC
03-04-2010, 03:56 PM
Sooner, did you say it ran like the choke was on? Do you mean rich misture, like with black smoke coming out the exhaust?
Could be the float is sinking. Sounds like excess fuel is getting to the carb. Float could be hanging up.

SOONERS222
03-07-2010, 05:33 PM
Sooner, did you say it ran like the choke was on? Do you mean rich misture, like with black smoke coming out the exhaust?
Could be the float is sinking. Sounds like excess fuel is getting to the carb. Float could be hanging up.

That is exactly what is happening. I will check thanks

betmr
03-07-2010, 08:46 PM
Carburetor is gummed up inside, and needs to be cleaned, by taking it apart.