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View Full Version : labor friendly ideas, power auger


turfman59
06-22-2002, 07:29 PM
Just put in my 4 th system this year. My first year in the biz with employees and need some ideas on speeding up the process. My associates working with me are 2nd year college students. one is a quick learner but on the manual labor side of things likes to dance around the hole digging for valve and head installs. I was wondering if using a power auger would speed up the process. Instead of pulling the pipe in first and then digging holes, would it be faster to power auger most of the sprinkler holes with a 12 inch power auger then pull the pipe with my mini sneaker to the hole?? Then use the blazing saddles for most of the fitting connections. If anyone has tried this and failed I would be interested in hearing why. Also does blazing saddles make a 1 .25 inch saddle I am building a lot of systems with larger pipe these days to cut down on friction loss and watering times.
Thanks

rvsuper
06-23-2002, 09:50 PM
That is exactly what I do and have never had problems with it. I have never seen a blazing or saddle tee that goes over 1". But I do not use them all the time. HBfox might know if there are bigger sizes than 1".

Planter
06-24-2002, 01:46 AM
I just tried them for the first time and really like them. They cost more, but they really save time. I use angled slip joint pliers to lock the backs and that is faster for me. I believe they will save a lot of time and increase my production enough to make the cost less in the long run.

Their web site lists the following sizes for POLY and PVC:
For Polyethylene
BS 4000 3/4" x SWING PIPE BARB
BS 5000 3/4" x 1/2" FPT
BS 6000 3/4" x 3/4" FPT
BS 7000 1" x 1/2" FPT
BS 8000 1" x 3/4" FPT
BS 9000 1" x SWING PIPE BARB
BS 10000 1 1/4" x 3/4" FPT
For PVC
BS 5PVC 3/4" x 1/2" FPT
BS 6PVC 3/4" x 3/4" FPT
BS 7PVC 1" x 1/2" FPT
BS 8PVC 1" x 3/4" FPT

HBFOXJr
06-24-2002, 09:49 AM
How much water are you working with, to be wanting 1.25" laterals? I use 1.25" pvc main if I have a source over 15 GPM. When I do this I try to center the valve in the zone so I can split the flow right after the valve and use 1". If you need to go a distance after the valve, consider 1.25" PVC to the split and then 1" poly in each direction.

HBFOXJr
06-24-2002, 09:58 AM
I thought of this myself many years ago. We USED to dig all the holes for a zone or system before pulling pipe becasue we didn't want to dig around the pipe or dig back on the pipe on T's or el's to get it down to the proper depth. That meant a million covers on the lawn and possibly a fully disturbed site at one time. It meant stradling holes and planking valve manifold holes to get across. Drilling holes seemed like a good idea. But when looking at equipment that 2 men hump around and the fact that the augers usually spin a little too fast and throw the dirt making things less neat. Tree roots and other obstacles can be a problem. We still had to clean holes as dirt got in when pulling.
Nothing like a sharp shovel.

turfman59
06-27-2002, 12:01 AM
I am doing some commercial sites, Super 8 hotels. and Iam trying to cut down the irrigation times so I am using 1 1/2 Mains then stepping down to 1 1/4 laterals for About the total distance of usually 60 to 80 feet then finish with 1 inch for the total distance of about 125 to 140 feet running about 8 to 10 heads between 1.5 to 3 gallons per minute. I am center feeding the total length always so the friction loss is not a big factor. also I am making sure that the water is not moving any faster than 5 feet per second on poly pipe. My hole system is done in poly.. pvc only at the point of connection ahead of the Master Valve.
good description of a piece of equipment I wont be buying........ Power Auger
Thanks Again Guys
Bruce