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View Full Version : HELP! What's wrong with my 25hp Kawasaki?


jtkplc
04-10-2010, 05:55 PM
The 25hp Kawasaki on my 52" Wright Stander has been acting up. It doesn't run good at all, it acts like it's not getting enough fuel. In fact the fuel filter won't fill up right. Today when I went to start it it wouldn't turn over and then fuel leaked out somewhere around the exhaust. I then checked the oil dipstick and fuel had flooded the oil. Is this possibly a carburetor problem or what? Can anyone help me diagnosis it?

topsites
04-10-2010, 09:52 PM
1. Float bowl mechanism sticking.
2. You need to change the oil and filter before you run it at all.

jtkplc
04-10-2010, 09:59 PM
1. Float bowl mechanism sticking.
2. You need to change the oil and filter before you run it at all.

Changing the oil goes without saying. What do I do about the float bowl mechanism?

Restrorob
04-10-2010, 10:21 PM
You need to replace the float needle valve if you go into the carb, Then check your fuel tank for trash and replace the fuel filter.

Can't go any further without this; http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=144040

jtkplc
04-10-2010, 11:39 PM
You need to replace the float needle valve if you go into the carb, Then check your fuel tank for trash and replace the fuel filter.

Can't go any further without this; http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=144040

Thank you for making me aware of my need of providing you with my equipment info. I will post that tomorrow. Thank you both for your help thus far.

jtkplc
04-14-2010, 09:31 PM
Here is the information from the engine and carburetor:
ENGINE
FH721V-CS33-R
E/NO - FH721VB57666
CARBURETOR
5824
150037121
266-592

I'm confused on these two things that each of you have posted about 'Float bowl mechanism sticking' and 'replace the float needle valve'. Are these the same thing or different? What exactly do I do? Is this something that I can do or should I take it in to my dealer? Also, should I just replace the entire carb or this that overkill?

punt66
04-14-2010, 09:34 PM
its easy to do. Your just replacing the float and needle and blowing out the carb with carb cleaner.

Restrorob
04-14-2010, 09:52 PM
Is this something that I can do or should I take it in to my dealer? Also, should I just replace the entire carb or this that overkill?


It appears you have never done this type repair before, With all due respect this two barrel carb is NOT one to learn on.

I don't believe you want to spend $321.59 plus tax and shipping for a new carb since all your's needs is cleaning and a couple parts and gaskets.

I suggest taking it into your dealer and let them perform the repair properly and without issues....

topsites
04-15-2010, 12:34 AM
Yup, take it to the dealer.

crook038
04-15-2010, 07:33 AM
It may be the electric solenoid shutoff. If you look at the carb there is a barrel type object with two wires coming out of it. Disconnect the wires and unscrew the solenoid. There is a plunger and spring that the solenoid acts upon. Remove the plunger and spring from the carb and check for foreign debris. If stuck partially open it will flood the engine when shut off but not provide enough fuel for the engine to run. This would be my first check. I added a link to the service manual, the picture is for a Kawasaki FH721D but the solenoid is the same, it is #6. Page 46 in the service manual will help you.
Sean

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Crook038/carb.jpg

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki_Service_and_Repair_Manuals/FH451V%20FH480V%20FH500V%20FH531V%20FH541V%20FH580V%20FH601V%20FH641V%20FH661V%20FH680V%20FH680V%20F H721V%20KAWASAKI_SERVICE_REPAIR_MANUAL%20%2099924-2078-01.pdf

jtkplc
04-15-2010, 11:30 AM
I believe we have a winner!!!

There was a piece of crap stuck down in the solenoid needle. I got that out this morning and I will finish the oil change tonight. Hopefully that was the problem and it will run normally.

Another update to follow to make sure it's running properly.

Restrorob
04-15-2010, 12:03 PM
If stuck partially open it will flood the engine when shut off

WRONG !

The fuel shut off solenoid ONLY shuts off fuel flow to the main jet, It has NOTHING to do with fuel entering the float bowl or flooding....

jtkplc
04-18-2010, 02:29 PM
Well I'm still having a problem with it. Now I can't get it to stay running. It will fire just fine, but the fuel filter isn't filling up hardly at all and I keep having to apply half to full choke to keep it running. It does the same thing increasing the throttle.

I have taken the fuel line off in a couple places and the flow is seems to be fine.

Any ideas where to go from here?

Restrorob
04-18-2010, 04:12 PM
Any ideas where to go from here?


I suggest taking it into your dealer and let them perform the repair properly and without issues....


http://fla-groundskeepers.com/forums/images/smilies/new_smilies/70.gif . http://fla-groundskeepers.com/forums/images/smilies/new_smilies/agree.gif

jtkplc
04-18-2010, 04:29 PM
I have friends and family that have mechanical backgrounds. So if things are over my head I turn them over to those guys. What would be the next steps to take to get to the bottom of this problem?

ricky86
04-18-2010, 06:46 PM
RR has warned you,TWICE. And if it's a newer Nikki carb, with the polymer float stand, experience is definitely helpful. The fuel filter usually won't have the appearance of being completely filled. That doesn't mean there is anything wrong with it. They do sometimes look empty when running, but it's mostly an illusion.

jtkplc
04-18-2010, 06:53 PM
RR has warned you,TWICE. And if it's a newer Nikki carb, with the polymer float stand, experience is definitely helpful. The fuel filter usually won't have the appearance of being completely filled. That doesn't mean there is anything wrong with it. They do sometimes look empty when running, but it's mostly an illusion.

I understand his "warning". I'm simply asking for more information and then I will make the decision about taking it to a dealer or not.

About the fuel filter, it's not filled up at hardly at all. It's probably 90-95% empty. There is hardly any fuel flowing into the filter from the gas tank. I have two other Standers so I know what the fuel filter should look like when running properly.

Lawn N Order
04-23-2010, 10:12 PM
I dont know about the Kawasaki's but some of the seats are brass and need to be threaded and pulled out. The new ones also need to be installed correctly or they will leak and you will be in the same boat. Even if the seat is rubber, they are easy to remove and install but they need to be installed the right way. I know you want to save a buck and do it your self, but I'd have to agree to take it to a dealer. Most of the time you can just bring the carb in and they can fix it up for cheaper vs bringing in the whole machine. Dumb question, do you know how a float valve works? If you dont understand how it works, its a hard thing to fix.

If you take the carb to a dealer, they can at least to a pressure test to see if its a float valve issue. Or maybe you have an obstruction in the bottem of the fuel tank thats plugging the fuel line not filling the fuel filter. From the sounds of it, I'd say 99% sure its a float valve, espically if it filled the crank case with fuel. Just trying to think out loud.

jtkplc
05-17-2010, 11:14 PM
I swapped out the carbeurator with the carb from the other 25hp Kawasaki 52" Wright Stander that we run and the problem still exists with the other carb.

What might be wrong now?

DT Lawn Care
05-17-2010, 11:40 PM
Try removing the gas cap to make sure that your cap is venting properly. Then I would check the fuel pump.

Merkava_4
05-18-2010, 06:35 AM
Is this possibly a carburetor problem or what? Can anyone help me diagnosis it?

It's usually always a carburetor problem with small engines; that's because carburetors play the critical roll of metering fuel and air at the correct ratios at all engine speeds - AND - they are susceptible to fuel contamination involving the smallest of foreign particles. By comparison, the ignition system and the governor system are nowhere near as susceptible to contamination as carburetors are.

jtkplc
05-18-2010, 10:18 PM
Try removing the gas cap to make sure that your cap is venting properly. Then I would check the fuel pump.

I swapped fuel pumps and checked the cap. Neither of them cleared up the sputtering issue. It's still sputtering when you increase rpm's and when there is load put on the engine, either rapid acceleration or engaging the blades. Where do I go from here?

DT Lawn Care
05-18-2010, 10:37 PM
I am hesitant to suggest valves, but it sounds like you have the fuel system pretty well knocked out. Remove the valve covers and check/adjust your gap. I believe that the intake should be around .004" and the exhaust should be around .006". If you have a manual for it, it should say under the specs. Not a bad idea to check them out even if it doesn't eliminate your problem. You can also check your spark. Good Luck