View Full Version : rear wheel won't come off
05-25-2000, 11:00 PM
Hi,everybody --<p>Working on my first truck in a long time (last was a '67 Jeep, sold in '81) & ran into a problem -- the left rear wheel is rusted to the hub & won't come off. This is a 1986 C10, 2wd, bought weeks ago, basically solid, but needs some work. I'm all ready to do a rear brake job, but with the lug nuts removed,the wheel is stuck fast. So far, I've tried GM haet riser valve lubricant, a big hammer on the backside of the wheel, backed off the lug nuts a bit & drove around with it, more hammering, a propane torch around the center, , the hammer again, & now I'm waiting for the penetrant to work (maybe) -- it still won't come off!<p>I'm hoping this is a common problem, & everyone else knows what to do. I'm not too concerned about saving the wheel (bent before I started, someone's been here before)& I've got new drums; just need to get the wheel off!<p>I'd really welcome any suggestions; there must be some simple way I just don't know about.<p>TIA,<p>Richard<br>Syracuse, NY
05-25-2000, 11:34 PM
Can you back off the adjuster and pull the drum and wheel as one? Be careful slamming the the hub at the end of the axle, you could do some damage farther up stream. Two other products I've had great succes loosening rusted parts, PB Rust Buster and tried true Marvel Mystrey oil. Other than those, heat? Best of luck.<p>----------<br>email@example.com<br>
05-26-2000, 10:32 AM
Unfortunately, on this axle, the lugs pass through the drum first, then the wheel, so the whell/drum can't be pulled as a unit unless I want to get into the differential & pul the shaft out (something I'd rather avoid) I think you're right about doing internal damage -- I really don't want to bang on it much more, for fear of trashing seals, bearings, or thr retainer for the axle. May have to find someone with an acetelyne torch. Anyone know if there is a puller for this application that would grip the wheel & bear on the hub, thus avoiding stress on the differential?<p>Again, TIA!<p>Richard<p>Syracuse, ny
05-26-2000, 04:47 PM
If the rim is rusted so tightly to the wheel studs and or the axle flange you might be better of to pull the diff cover, remove the cross shaft and C-clip and pull the whole assembly out. If your even remotely careful you won't damage the outer seal. Once you have the assembly off the truck you can heat the rim without having to worry about wrecking anything else. Besides its a good oppotunity to change the fluid in your diff.
05-27-2000, 11:17 PM
Heat up the drum with a torch, then take a candle and melt the wax around the drum, hub, lugs.... heat it up again. The wax acts as a penetrant and it should come off!! This is a tip from my master mechanic
05-28-2000, 11:16 PM
I live in michigan where this type of thing happens on a daily basis. USE A BIGGER HAMMER !!!!!! Works every time.<p>Spin the wheel while hitting the back of the rim. It will come off. These things are pretty tuff. it sould be ok.<br>I use a big ford tool on these things. (large sludge hammer) Good Luck.
05-29-2000, 01:50 PM
The bigger hammer is in the barn, and it's still an option, but right now, I'm trying the pull-the-wheel-and-shaft together idea.<p>Odd thing is, I've got the diff. cover off & I've removed the pinion shaft lock screw (per Chilton's) but the shaft won't come out. In the picture in the manual, it looks like it should just slide out. it has about 1/16" of axial play, and it's not bound up on the pinion gears -- it just doesn't want to slide. Anyone know if there's a snap ring or something that I'm missing? or does the shaft need to be pressed/driven out? Maybe there's some minor galling around the lock bolt hole that's hanging it up?<p>I'm perplexed.<p>Of course, that's not unusual.<p>TIA once more,<p>Richard<p>Syracuse,NY
05-29-2000, 05:38 PM
There should be a "C" clip at the end of the shaft.
Are you sure you got ALL of the lock bolt? I have seen them break off and leave part of the last thread and all of the lock pin in the hole. The bolt is threated right under the head and then is smaller diameter for the locking area.
05-29-2000, 11:19 PM
Tried the hammer again, pounded harder, and the wheel came off! Heat, penetrating oil, and more pounding got the drum off. I'm still curious about the pinion shaft, though -- I've been tinking it would be a good idea to replace the seals, while I'm doing the brakes, or at 128,000 miles thry'll leak oil on my brand new shoes weeks or months down the road. I checked the lock screw, and it has a 5/16 head, a threaded section, and a non-threaded section abour 3/16 long, & looks flat & unbroken on the end. If there were a piece of the screw lodged in the shaft, what would be the next step? Any ideas?<p>Richard
05-30-2000, 06:05 PM
OK. once you remove the locking pin. Then remove the pin that holds the spider gears in place. Then like said there is a C clip in each side. Just push the axle shaft in tords the truck. The C clip will usally fall out. Be careful not to turn the axle shaft or let the spider gears move. or they will fall out. then just remove the axle shaft. you can even use the end of the axle shaft to pull the seal out. I use to do this all the time. It was fast easy money. Good Luck.
05-31-2000, 03:29 AM
Sounds great, this is just what I have -- a big C-clip on the inner end of both cross shafts, with the pinion shaft running through the spider gears & between the cross shafts, so that if the pinion shaft were removed, the cross shafts would be able to move inward enough for the big C-clips to slide out, and the cross shafts would slide out of the differential. The lock bolt runs through one end of the pinion shaft, and it appears to be the only thing keeping it from sliding out of the spider gears, but something's holding it -- that's why I'm thinking some minor gallng around the lock bolt hole might be causing just enough resistance to keep it from sliding -- wondering if a small gear puller might be used , with the lock bolt out, to press the shaft out of the spider gears. This is the short shaft/pin, that runs right through the spider gears, that's causing the problem. Lock bolt is out, completely intact as far as I can tell. Just wanted to check & see if anyone else had had this shaft hang up on them before I proceed. I may just put the lock bolt back in & leave well enough alone, since both wheels/drums are off now.
If all you got is 3/16 of reduced diameter pin on that bolt you didn't get it all. That pin area has to go all the way through the center pin in the carrier. Try probing with a small wire and see if you can put the wire through at least as far as the other side of the carrier pin. I don't remember if the hole is drilled though so you could get behind a broken pin and push it out. Yort, can you offer any insight here?
You could rotate the carrier until you are looking at the end of the center pin and caress it gently with a brass drift and hammer. Don't get carried away, butI can't see the pin galling at all, they usually push out with finger pressure alone
06-05-2000, 03:27 PM
Ijust want to thank everone for all the advice; it was a tremendous help. I checked the bolt again, and it's way too short, obvously sheared somewhere inside. I put what bolt I have back in and tourqed it well, and I'm going to run it on the theory that the differential was working OK, and that pin isn't going anywhere. So -- on with the brake job, thinking all the while about picking up a used rear end to have on hand, just in case.<p>Thanks again, eveyone, for your advice and for your time.<p>Richard
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