View Full Version : Chevy truck Balljoints
05-19-2000, 12:48 PM
Does anybody know if it's possible to do balljoints in a backyard with a floor jack, and not a lift, on a 1988 K5 Blazer? I've never done them on any vehicle, and I'm afraid it's going to take too long to do myself. I need to take the truck on a 400 mile trip this weekend, and just found out about the balljoint. Does the axle need to come out? If I don't do the job, how bad will the damage be if it breaks during the trip? Any help will be greatly appreciated! <br>Thanks,<br>Ratch<p>
Ratch; You can do the balljoints in the backyard as long as you have a ball joint press. I have done quite a few front ends on the K series trucks. I wouldnt drive it any distance with a bad balljoint or severe axle damage will occur not to mention body damage etc. Where on the Island are you? Thats where I am too.
No big deal to do them, but it is kinda involved. Don;t know aobut a ball joint press, I made a driver out of a piece of pipe to install them. You do need a special tool to tighten the adjusting sleeve in the upper joint though. These are not "ball joints" in the sense that the later models are, I think of them as an interrupted kingpin as they only swivel in one plane. <p>The drill is something like this, disassemble the locking hub, remove the hub/brake disc. Then six bolts hold the stub shaft (hollow)to the steering knuckle. The shaft can be a ***** to get off, put the spindle nuts back on and smack it up, down and sideways with a soft hammer. Be careful,, too much impact can distort the nuts and the tube itself. I've had good luck grinding a chisel to a very shallow, one sided end and driving that between the stub and the knuckle. Then pull the axle, remove the castle nuts on the ball joints and put a jack stand under the axle, as far out as possible. SMACK the upper ball joint with aobut a 20 lb hammer and it usually drops free. Use the special spanner to remove the adjusting sleeve from inside the upper mounting hole. (Damn, it's been a long time,, memories are getting rusty) I usually blow the bottom out of the socket on the old join and let it cool/shrink and it comes out pretty good. New ones press in,, can't remember just exactly how. Slip the shanks into place, tighten the lower joint to specified torque. Then install the adjusting sleeve in the upper and torque to spec (special tool again) then installand tighten the castle nut on the upper stem. Slip the axle back in place, you may have to turn it as it goes in to align the splines. Reinstall (with anti seize on the mating surfaces) the stub shaft then hubs and bearings, reassemble the locking hub and you're back on the road. About three hours a side if I remember right.
05-20-2000, 09:50 AM
Alanís way is how its done. But I recommend using a spindle puller to remove the spindle. Its works allot better. I used to have the same problems that Alan had. It was a good $20.00. It has made life allot easier.<br>Good Luck.<br>
05-21-2000, 12:53 PM
The weather here turned out to be too rough to do any work in (I would've gotten everything soaked), so I had it done for $200. I'm kicking myself in the ass for it, 'cause I much rather would have done them myself. Thanks for the help posts anyway, though, I'll probably use them when the other side is ready to be done...
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