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View Full Version : does anyone run synthetic oil?


blakerugg
04-27-2010, 09:28 PM
just wondering, does anyone use it? is it worth the extra few bucks? will it really make a difference?

Cboy7
04-27-2010, 09:35 PM
same here.. I really would like to know.

I have read theres no difference in motor oil , just the buy the cheapest brand.

dwost
04-27-2010, 09:55 PM
If it's motorized, takes oil, it's got full syn flowing through it. :) It's well worth the extra $$.

unkownfl
04-27-2010, 10:12 PM
You have to buy a real synthetic though. Not all are true synthetics. Only Mobile 1 and Amsoil I know of are true synthetics but I'm not a big oil guy so there could be more. I'm pretty sure all the castrol is dino oil package in synthetic bottles except the 0w30 made in Germany stuff only found at autozone and that could still be dino just really good dino stuff.

topsites
04-27-2010, 10:30 PM
Every engine of mine runs synthetic, mowers, cars, truck, 2-cyclers, too.
e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g., no exception.
Matter of fact the ONLY conventional oil I have is non-detergent for the air compressor.

I also run premium 93 octane gasoline, same standards.

MikeKle
04-27-2010, 10:40 PM
The synthetics may just be regular oil and we all fall for it?!! I have heard many, many times, the fuel at gas stations is ALL the same, no matter what grade you buy. tests have even been done on samples that proved this to be true. IS there an easy way for anyone to tell, like a simple DIY test, just to be sure?

blakerugg
04-27-2010, 10:41 PM
The synthetics may just be regular oil and we all fall for it?!! I have heard many, many times, the fuel at gas stations is ALL the same, no matter what grade you buy. tests have even been done on samples that proved this to be true. IS there an easy way for anyone to tell, like a simple DIY test?

im really not sure. i trust shell though. i usually run 89 instead of 87, but maybe i will switch everything to 93. i plan on using mobil 1 from here on in on everything, and then im going to look into a high perf 2 stroke mix

Rivervalleylawns
04-27-2010, 11:29 PM
Royal Purple is this Sh!t. I use it in everything and run 91 to 93 octane in everything, even mowers as well.

However,
I really have some doubts about synthetic in the long haul of the motor. Synthetic is a much finer blend of oil, right.? Conventional in and older motor I think is better. In az and I'm sure everywhere else, older cars always leak oil. Conventional will seal up holes/leaks. As synthetic will continue to leak and not seal up. I'm no mechanic by no means, this is all based off of the motors I have seen in my lifetime.

On a seperate note, the previous governor of az, janet napaletano (now chief of homeland security). She said about 10 years ago that it is not beneficial nor any different for you to run higher octane in your vehicles. Now I have never run it in any of my trucks but always do in my mowers, 2 cycles etc.
Posted via Mobile Device

CincyWolf
04-27-2010, 11:50 PM
Synthetic is clearly superior but you should run conventional long enough for the rings to seat because synthetic lubricates better and it will actually prevent the rings in most engines to properly mate during breakin and if the rings do not properly seat then your long term engine performance will suffer. Beginning with the 2nd oil change go to synthetic (this assumes the first change is a very short cycle like 8 hours and the 2nd change at about 50 hours when the engine should be broken in). You should run nothing but synthetic in your hydros too. Most hydros are shipping with synthetic now but if yours did not or still has conventional oil I'd suggest changing it out. In fact running synthetic in your hydro is much more critical and I'd do that on day one because they will run cooler and the oil will not break down as quickly as conventional oil.

Regarding gas, high octane additives delay combustion to prevent premature ignition. An engine pings or knocks when the fuel mixture starts to combust before the optimum time and this hurts performance and fuel economy. If the engine is not designed to run high octane then you are just wasting your money to use it and in that case regular or mid octane blend should be fine. All high performance 2 stroke engines like Stihl should use Premium/High Octane fuel to get the best performance. The compression ratio, fuel intake timing and ignition timing are all designed for higher octane blends so when you run a lower octane the fuel mixture tries to combust before optimum compression and spark timing and this creates ping or spark knock. If it is really bad you can do engine damage up to and including damaged spark plugs and melting a hole in your piston.

overtime mp
04-28-2010, 12:11 AM
Synthetics is all I use in everthing that I own.
Well worth it offer conventional oil.

jspray
04-28-2010, 12:43 AM
Synthetic oils are a tremendous improvement to engine and hydraulic system life.
Why do all race cars run synthetics?
We estimate a possible 100% or 2 times engine life with a true synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil used in an air cooled engine if reasonably serviced.

Richard Martin
04-28-2010, 05:04 AM
I just switched back to regular Pennzoil in my wife's Chevy Cobalt. I was following Chevrolet's recommendations on OCIs. The Cobalt has an on-board computer that tells us when to change the oil. Since it was usually well over 3,000 miles, usually closer to 10,000, I was using Pennzoil Platinum in the engine. The last few oil changes the oil has been coming out of the engine smelling very burned and black as coal. This time around we still had 40% of the oil life left (according to the computer) and again it was black as coal and smelling burned. When you remove the oil cap and look at it the cap was getting that nasty burned oil look on it. Since the oil filter is a cartridge you can easily see the condition of it. It always came out very black and the paper element was stiff. I always use Purolator Pure One filters so the filter quality is not in question here.

Anyway, I've had enough of this. I am not going to burn up a very expensive Eco Tech engine. I am switching back to a 3,000 OCI on this engine, just like my F-150. Never not one time has the oil coming out of my truck been that black and burned smelling.

Since I'm changing the oil about 3 times more often it makes sense to switch back to a conventional oil. At almost $40 for a synthetic oil change I can't justify the expense of using synthetic oil.

zanemoseley
04-28-2010, 08:13 AM
So is roughly 5 hours on a Kawasaki engine enough to seat the rings? I just changed the oil in my Toro for the first time as upgraded to Mobile 1 10W-30.

fredmullegun
04-28-2010, 08:22 AM
I run Castrol edge but just because I got an awesome deal on a few cases. I doubt I will buy it after my supply runs out.

TLS
04-28-2010, 08:28 AM
Previously ran Mobil-1, but have been reading up on oils, and German Castrol is what I now use.

dwost
04-28-2010, 08:43 AM
Previously ran Mobil-1, but have been reading up on oils, and German Castrol is what I now use.

Ditto.......for those not in the know about this oil, you can read all about it here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php I've run this for years in my VW, Audi, and Mercedes. It's a great oil.

Also referred to as "Castrol Green" or "German Castrol" Make no mistake, they are COMPLETELY different formulations than their "synthetic" oils which are s@#t in comparision.

Motul, Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil are also excellent choices.

rsp1961
04-28-2010, 09:36 AM
There was a thread on here a few years back that one guy had done a study, and showed what happened with the synthetic oil when heated up, and how it turned milky (increased O2) which it caused it to heat up even more. I believe he proved or showed the synthetic was over rated. I might be mistaken, but you could probably do a search and find that study or link on here somewhere.

ed2hess
04-28-2010, 09:25 PM
We switched to Scheffer synthetic in everything. I usually wait until I get 100 hrs. The big advantage comes when an engine is using oil the sythenic gives you a little more safety margin.

unkownfl
04-28-2010, 09:27 PM
anyone remember the prolong commercial of all the cars running around without any oil in the engines LOL.

CincyWolf
04-28-2010, 09:52 PM
There was a thread on here a few years back that one guy had done a study, and showed what happened with the synthetic oil when heated up, and how it turned milky (increased O2) which it caused it to heat up even more. I believe he proved or showed the synthetic was over rated. I might be mistaken, but you could probably do a search and find that study or link on here somewhere.

If people want to believe that let them. Based on the science and anecdotal information from users I don't think there is any dispute about the superiority of synthetic vs. conventional oil. That doesn't mean you can run the oil 3-4x as long as converntional so it will cost you more in oil changes but it protects your engine much better. By and large the only detractors either have some stake in conventional oil or they are old school and just don't want to change.

theheisk
04-28-2010, 10:00 PM
Synthetic in all my equipment....even my old Massey Tractor! Ams Oil is the preferred brand.
Posted via Mobile Device

jspray
04-28-2010, 10:09 PM
Amen, over and out on this one.

johnwon
04-28-2010, 10:11 PM
I run Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck in my 25HP KAW. There are better oils out there, but for the price and availability, it's hard to beat.

FYS777
04-28-2010, 10:26 PM
all blah blah! run reg, gas. and use penz. muti 2 cycle . never had a problem.

Pennington Lawncare
04-29-2010, 12:24 AM
Amsoil small engine oil is made just for the engines in our mowers and Amsoil Saber 2 stroke oil is rated at 100:1 and I mix it at 80:1 and use 93 octane fuel in my pre-mix.

Mowerman2112
04-29-2010, 01:01 AM
Syn, is the way to go, all Corvette's come of the line with Mobil 1, I have used it in all my air and liquid cooled engine's for many years. Run all RedMax Syn in all my 2-stroke stuff the highest ratings I have found in 2- stroke Syn oil.

blakerugg
05-06-2010, 02:20 PM
So is roughly 5 hours on a Kawasaki engine enough to seat the rings? I just changed the oil in my Toro for the first time as upgraded to Mobile 1 10W-30.

can anyone answer this? i have 8 hrs on my Kai and have to change the oil, I dunno whether to use conv or syn yet?
Posted via Mobile Device

Alan0354
05-06-2010, 02:26 PM
can anyone answer this? i have 8 hrs on my Kai and have to change the oil, I dunno whether to use conv or syn yet?
Posted via Mobile Device

I was told to use regular oil for breakin before changing to syn. Maybe one more regular oil for a few more hours then to syn on the next change.

I posted before, I always use any oil from gas station in my cars, all gone over 200K just by changing at 3000miles interval. I truely believe changing more often is much more important than what oil you use.

rtharris
05-06-2010, 03:58 PM
Every engine of mine runs synthetic, mowers, cars, truck, 2-cyclers, too.
e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g., no exception.
Matter of fact the ONLY conventional oil I have is non-detergent for the air compressor.

I also run premium 93 octane gasoline, same standards.
Posted via Mobile Device

rtharris
05-06-2010, 04:06 PM
Synthetics in motors definately 93 octane in ur mower is a waste of money no stock mowers have high enough compression to warrant the use of 93 octane fuel
Posted via Mobile Device

44DCNF
05-06-2010, 06:20 PM
Run synthetic from the start if you want. It's a myth about it not allowing the seating of rings. My family and I have broken more than a few vehicles in and many pieces of equipment in on synthetics since 1976, and never had problems with oil usage or low compression. There have been many models of cars and equipment shipped from factories with synthetics in them. Educate yourselves on it and stop perpetuating myths about synthetic oils.

clydebusa
05-06-2010, 06:32 PM
Every engine of mine runs synthetic, mowers, cars, truck, 2-cyclers, too.
e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g., no exception.
Matter of fact the ONLY conventional oil I have is non-detergent for the air compressor.

I also run premium 93 octane gasoline, same standards.

I put synthetic in my compressors!

BINKY1902
05-06-2010, 09:50 PM
I use Mobil 1 synthetic in my truck and mowers.

Lehighlawnpros
05-06-2010, 11:38 PM
I'm using Amsoil ACD synthetic in my Grasshopper 722D with
Kubota D902 liquid cooled diesel engine.

Great results so far, oil analysis looked great at a 300 hour interval,
and I'm planning to check it again at 500 hours.

I also have an Amsoil dual-remote filter mount installed on the 722D
with an Amsoil EaO full-flow filter, bypass filter and a pre-startup luber.

500+ hour oil/filter change intervals will save a lot of maintenance time.

Here are the results of a previous oil analysis with 250 hours on the oil and
500 hours on the filters:


This is a report from Oil Analyzers Inc. for my 2004 Kubota D-902-E
3 cyl. diesel engine. It's installed in a Grasshopper lawn mower (722D).

Lube= Amsoil ACD 10w30/SAE30

Sump Capacity= Approx. 6 Quarts

Filtration= Amsoil full-flow EaO-15 and Amsoil Bypass EaBP-90

Also installed= Amsoiler pre-luber

Unit Time= 1500 hours

lube time= 250 hours/5 months

filter time (both filters)= 500 hours/8 months (bypass still gets hot to the touch, so it's still working well)

makeup oil= negligible amount

lube change= no

filter change= no



IRON__9

CHROMIUM__1

ALUMINUM__1

SILICON__4

SODIUM__3

POTASSIUM__1

BORON__2

MAGNESIUM__10

CALCIUM__3738

PHOSPHORUS__1227

ZINC__1364



FUEL GC__0.7%

SOOT VOL.__<.1%

WATER INFRARED__<.1

VIS 100C CS__11.2

TBN__11.60

Mowerman2112
05-07-2010, 12:25 AM
Use Syn, in all I run! Truck, mower's and 2-stroke stuff. Mower's etc. require little volume of oil, I have not used standard oil for 10+ years, but come's down to what work's for you!

alanauer
05-07-2010, 09:54 AM
Haven't read all the above so excuse me if I repeat something.

In exchange for their higher cost, synthetics have two plusses: they last longer before chemical breakdown, and they can be formulated for a wider viscosity range. One multi-viscosity is rated 5/50.

BUT: you have to change the oil for two reasons: breakdown and contaminants. While syn oils last about twice as long as dino oils chemically, they get just as dirty, so should not be used much longer than the dino kind. As for viscosity, if you want extremely low and/or high numbers for various reasons, use it. But I think the 15/45 dino that I use is plenty variable for my climate year-round, and costs about one-third.

The syns I've seen are not diesel-rated. If your engine is diesel with a 100-hr oil-change, you can use gas-engine oil if you change it after 50-60 hrs because it won't have the ash dispersant that a diesel needs.

In short, syns sound a bit better in theory than they are in practice.

BarkSlayer
05-07-2010, 11:24 AM
I made the mistake of putting synthetic in my 60" Exmark Lazer Z (25 hp air-cooled Kophler V-twin) and within 30 minutes, I had oil weeping from every gasket. After a rather expensive repair bill, I'm back to Kohler brand dino-type oil and no issues.

alanauer
05-07-2010, 04:20 PM
Kohler oil? From Kohler's oil fields and refineries?

Do you stick to Toyota antifreeze for your Toyota? Or Motorcraft motor oil and fan belts for your Ford? Or nothing but Stihl chain oil in your saw? Do you suppose these "imprint" products originate with the company whose name is on it?

These firms buy their consumables from the same firms (and maybe even from the same vats) that supply Walmart etc. where they costs much less.

BarkSlayer
05-07-2010, 04:45 PM
Not from Kohler's own oil fields (who told you that, anyway?), but from the shelf at my local Exmark dealer - the same guy who cut me the break on the gasket replacement. I'm all for saving money, Alan, but there's a little more to it in many cases. For the little I'd save at Wal-Mart, buying from my dealer makes me welcome there, which invariably pays off when I may really need his help.

Cboy7
05-07-2010, 04:46 PM
Kohler oil? From Kohler's oil fields and refineries?

Do you stick to Toyota antifreeze for your Toyota? Or Motorcraft motor oil and fan belts for your Ford? Or nothing but Stihl chain oil in your saw? Do you suppose these "imprint" products originate with the company whose name is on it?

These firms buy their consumables from the same firms (and maybe even from the same vats) that supply Walmart etc. where they costs much less.

ahahahhahaah jyou nailed it! wooohhh this brand naming of products is way out of hand

dwost
05-07-2010, 09:37 PM
I made the mistake of putting synthetic in my 60" Exmark Lazer Z (25 hp air-cooled Kophler V-twin) and within 30 minutes, I had oil weeping from every gasket. After a rather expensive repair bill, I'm back to Kohler brand dino-type oil and no issues.

Ummmm yeah, you have a bigger issue than your oil :confused:

BarkSlayer
05-07-2010, 11:50 PM
Care to enlighten me? I'm new to this place as of today and was under the (apparently mistaken) impression it was a resource of some kind. I can find mindless drivel like that pretty much anywhere on the internet.

alanauer
05-08-2010, 07:23 AM
Given your apparent attitude Mr. Slayer, do you feel you have any capacity for enlightenment?

dwost
05-08-2010, 08:04 AM
First off, welcome to the forum. Sorry I didn't say that in my first post. Secondly this place is a wealth of knowledge and I apologize if you felt I was "belittling" you as that was not my intention. You simply posted that by switching to syn your engine fell apart. My statement simply was to point out that I find it hard to believe that synthetic oil was the cause of this issue.

There are MANY factors that you need to look at that could cause this. First off, how many hours do you have on the motor? You could have had seals/gaskets that are brittle and worn. How long did you go between changes? Did you use the right weight oil? Could it be that the added lubricity of syn cause the engine to build more pressure due to something else not working properly in the internals? I hope you see my point that you simply posted up the oil was the cause of your issue. Maybe it was but I highly doubt it. Also, if you can elaborate on the "expensive repair" as to what exactly they replaced that may also assist us in diagnosing what could have gone wrong. Post up and again my apologies if you took my comment the wrong way. More info on your part would have been good.

As a side note, I've run full synthetic in EVERY motor I own whether it be a mower, trimmer, car, boat , etc.... I've never had any issue with the oil causing an issue like this. There are many points and counter points about using dino for the first 50 hours or so to let all the seals and rings seat. I've never had this issue running full syn from the start. I think you may need to look deeper and see if there was something else causing this problem.

BarkSlayer
05-08-2010, 08:15 AM
My attitude, Alan? Really?

Let me invite you to back up a page and re-read this thread. Who was it that had the problem with my choice of oils? And all you could throw up was your own contention that all oils come from the same few refineries? That's the only difference? Maybe for you, but as I tried to point out, there was more to it in that case for me. It was my choice, and it was a good one under those circumstances...which you know nothing about.

I own three dogs. I could feed them Chinese dog food because it's the cheapest possible thing I can find, but that wouldn't be the best choice I could make either. "Cheapest possible price" and "lowest necessary cost" are two entirely different things. I don't choose to go through life reading menus from right to left. There is often more to the equation. And at the end of the day, it's choice we should be celebrating here. We live in North America, and we have a choice.

BarkSlayer
05-08-2010, 08:26 AM
First off, welcome to the forum. Sorry I didn't say that in my first post. Secondly this place is a wealth of knowledge and I apologize if you felt I was "belittling" you as that was not my intention. You simply posted that by switching to syn your engine fell apart. My statement simply was to point out that I find it hard to believe that synthetic oil was the cause of this issue.

Thanks, I appreciate the civility.

My Z had only 225 hours on it at the time of the switch to full synthetic. I run Amsoil products in most of my engines (mowers, motorcycles, etc.) and have had nothing but great results. The air-cooled Kohlers of that vintage were made with "sloppy" tolerances by today's standards. It didn't take long for the gaskets and seal to begin weeping enough for dirt to collect all over the engine. It wasn't hemorrhaging - but it leaked enough to be a problem. According to the research I'd done at the time, there had been other cases of the same thing going on and Kohler had allegedly issued a tech bulletin advising against the use of synthethics in the air-cooled V-twins (I never saw that bulletin myself). Given the sudden onset of the leaking - within hours of the switch - it stood to reason that there was a connection. After replacing some gaskets and changing back to dino, it's never leaked a drop.

blakerugg
05-08-2010, 08:29 AM
nice argument, just what i love seeing after not checking the site for the last couple days lmao

carrera mike
08-18-2010, 06:47 PM
Just FYI when picking your Synthetics, I recommend picking the ones without the ILSAC GF-4 stamp. ILSAC GF-4 in the back of the bottle designates that those are the EPA controled oils that have less Phosporus and Zinc which are the main elements that prevents metal-to-metal wear, but bad for catalitic converters(which our mowers don't have) and environment.

Here's a list of Mobil 1 Oils that have the Phos & Zinc values. I use only the ones with 1000ppm or more for my cars.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

**I must mention too that oil has to be in the Kawasaki list of approve oils to gurantee compatability with their engine seals(or oil will deteriorate seals and cause leaks).

Hope this helps.

**on a different note on automobiles...
if you want ultimate metal to metal wear protection and still has the least oil resistance to deliver power, Mobil 1 racing http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ing_0W-30.aspx It has 1800ppm of Phos/Zinc is available BUT but not for street use since it will ruin your cats. It also has "0W" which provide very minimum friction so the piston travels with less oil resistance(benefit for racing), but its balanced by the high Phos/Zinc to prevent the engine wear.

topsites
08-18-2010, 06:54 PM
Do you believe in the tooth fairy?

Capemay Eagle
08-18-2010, 06:56 PM
AMSOIL and Motul in all my stuff. I run Motul in my 2 stroke Quads and Motocross bikes and AMSOIL in all the 4 cycles.

carrera mike
08-18-2010, 07:13 PM
Do you believe in the tooth fairy?

Read the facts, maybe you'll catch up with technology.

treemonkey
08-18-2010, 08:04 PM
Thanks for the tip about Kawasaki mower engine approval list.

Do you have a link to that?

FYS777
08-18-2010, 08:47 PM
all i'll say is , what ever. to what oil to use!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! for the 2 cycles and 4 strokes. in my opinion its all hype........

carrera mike
08-19-2010, 07:28 AM
As suggested by the gentleman above.
Hope this helps gents.

treemonkey
08-19-2010, 07:58 AM
I was actually more interested to see this list you mentioned that I was never aware of:

I must mention too that oil has to be in the Kawasaki list of approve oils to gurantee compatability with their engine seals(or oil will deteriorate seals and cause leaks).


You also said that you only use oils with the higher zddp/phos levels in your autos, but I see that Mobil does not include these oils on the Ford, GM, and Chrysler mfg. approval lists according to your chart. What implications might this cause.....warranty maybe?

carrera mike
08-19-2010, 08:42 AM
I was actually more interested to see this list you mentioned that I was never aware of:




You also said that you only use oils with the higher zddp/phos levels in your autos, but I see that Mobil does not include these oils on the Ford, GM, and Chrysler mfg. approval lists according to your chart. What implications might this cause.....warranty maybe?

TM,

Every auto manufacturer have their own list of approved oils. Even if they're not listed above on that M1 list, the individual auto manifacturer has their approved list. Here's GM's http://www.gm.com/corporate/responsibility/environment/maintenance/gm_approved_engine_oils.pdf

I assume/d Kawasaki has one of these. Maybe, at worse, in japanese characters :(

jkingrph
08-19-2010, 10:05 AM
You have to buy a real synthetic though. Not all are true synthetics. Only Mobile 1 and Amsoil I know of are true synthetics but I'm not a big oil guy so there could be more. I'm pretty sure all the castrol is dino oil package in synthetic bottles except the 0w30 made in Germany stuff only found at autozone and that could still be dino just really good dino stuff.

Personally I run Mobil 1 in my wife's car , mowers, generator and pressure washer, Rotell synthetic in my F 250 diesel.

Now, the big question is what really constitutes synthetic. In reality all oils are synthetic to some degee. They are created in the refining process by a process called "cracking" where under heat and pressure crude oil is formed and seperated into finished products, lubricating oil base, diesel, gasoline, and asphalt.

If cost were not a factor a trully synthetic could be made from almost any organic product, that is one which contains carbon and hydrogen. That includes crude oil, coal, natural gas, leaf clippings, animal bodies, ect ect the list goes on.

What synthetic brings to the table, or rather the crankcase is uniformity in molecular structure. By tailoring the size, shape and general compositiion of the molecule the chemist & chemical engineer can better determine the desired properties (probably lubricity and stability) of the finished product, tof the oil and not have to rely on as many additives to achieve the same goal

Generally the dino oils consist of a mixture of a lot of varying hydrocarbon compounds, before the additives are introduced. This is not to say that the synthetics have only one hydrocarbon oil molecule, in reality they are probably a mixture( my guess) to achieve required properties. Speaking from experience I know that all oils have improved over the last 50 years.

I understand that the synthetics were originally developed for some special avation purposes, the extreme conditiions of turbine engines, the very high internal operating temps as well as the extreme cold of very high altitude.

In reality if you will follow engine manufactures recomendations for oil and filter changes and in my opinion use a good oil of correct specification, you will have no problems and get good life and service out of the engine.

carrera mike
08-19-2010, 11:41 AM
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf


Link above not working.. here it is again (try copy & paste instead of clicking if it gets truncated again).

www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Differential
08-19-2010, 03:06 PM
In my mower (which is a 20 year old snapper), I run Castrol SAE 30. That old Wisconson Robin still runs like a champ.

In all of my handhelds, I run Stihl Ultra full synthetic. Most importantly, it's measured exactly, one 2.6oz bottle per exactly one gallon of fuel. My equipment runs great, starts within two pulls, and run VERY clean.

Many people say that oil doesn't make a difference, but my experience is that the Stihl Synthetic runs very clean. Almost every day, I give my equipment a quick wipe with some simple green, then hit it with some compressed air, and I can literally bring it in the house and set it on the carpet.

Even my wife is amazed. I do about 4 lawns per day, every day, and just a few minutes when I get home to do this really makes a difference.

carrera mike
08-19-2010, 07:33 PM
Here's a very good read

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

johnwon
08-20-2010, 11:08 AM
Here's a very good read

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Hi, thanks for the link. I'll share one that you may also find of interest;
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles#faq_motor_oil_basics

treemonkey
08-20-2010, 12:20 PM
Here's a very good read

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html


John, the only counter point I have to that article is that if SM oils are so bad, how come so many people are successfully running their vehicles to 200 thousand miles and beyond on SM without problems?

That article relates to high performance air cooled and/or Porsche engines. To take that information and apply it to all engines is incorrect, in my opinion. Again, the facts are that today's modern vehicle engines are doing fine on SM oils.

Regarding OPE air cooled engines, I cringe a bit and wonder if SM is adequate for them. I use HDEO in mine, but I don't have proof about SM oils in this application.

Again, you seem to be implying that if certain oils are best for Porsche engines, then they are best for all engines. The real world results don't support this.

The same seems to apply to the new CJ oils. You don't read that diesel trucks, ag. equipment, and construction equipment have engines that are self destructing on this new oil.

I studied the flat tappet issues that were attributed to the additive level reduction and the conclusion I came to was that the problem only seems to exist in high performance and/or modded engines with very strong valve springs and/or bad cam metalurgy. This is not based on my personal experience, just investigation on the internet and conversations with engine companies.

johnwon
08-20-2010, 01:39 PM
[QUOTE=treemonkey;3687594]John, the only counter point I have to that article is that if SM oils are so bad, how come so many people are successfully running their vehicles to 200 thousand miles and beyond on SM without problems?

The only thing I can come up with other than better design compared to years ago, computer controled fuel injection gives a near ideal air fuel mixture compared to the older carb. / mech. choke deal, so you have less carbon blow by. The roller tappets were a big factor as you already know. But no, what's good for one is not necessary good for another. I guess the O.P. was at least comparing air cooled to air cooled. My link to the Ferrari forums was just what I thought would be of further interest to the O.P. One thing I have noticed, some of the people on these other forums are pretty sharp. Not saying we don't have sharp one's here. But it is good to be able to glean from other forums.

johnwon
08-20-2010, 01:58 PM
[QUOTE=treemonkey;3687594]John, the only counter point I have to that article is that if SM oils are so bad, how come so many people are successfully running their vehicles to 200 thousand miles and beyond on SM without problems?

The only thing I can come up with other than better design compared to years ago, computer controled fuel injection gives a near ideal air fuel mixture compared to the older carb. / mech. choke deal, so you have less carbon blow by. The roller tappets were a big factor as you already know. But no, what's good for one is not necessary good for another. I guess the O.P. was at least comparing air cooled to air cooled. My link to the Ferrari forums was just what I thought would be of further interest to the O.P. One thing I have noticed, some of the people on these other forums are pretty sharp. Not saying we don't have sharp one's here. But it is good to be able to glean from other forums.

Please excuse my reference to the O.P. , I meant to refer to carrera mike who was the one who brought this thread back from the past.

Rayner Lawncare
08-20-2010, 08:01 PM
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ A lot of info here.

dwost
08-20-2010, 09:13 PM
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ A lot of info here.

Funny........I was going to post this up as well. Great reading. I also run "German Castrol" in my cars with great results.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=718643

Grass Shark
08-22-2010, 12:20 PM
just wondering, does anyone use it? is it worth the extra few bucks? will it really make a difference?
um.... yes

Clark Griswold
08-22-2010, 04:23 PM
I use it because it stays the same consistency no matter what the temperature is!

100 degrees stays the same, 20 below zero stays the same!

Ask anybody over in cold Europe or Alaska what oil they use, Mobil 1 all the way!

Classic Cuts Lawn Service
08-22-2010, 07:38 PM
I use 10W30 synthetic oil in all my mower and the performance is outstanding. Definatley worth the extra few bucks you have to pay.

zo6
08-24-2010, 04:52 AM
can anyone answer this? I have 8 hrs on my kai and have to change the oil, i dunno whether to use conv or syn yet?
posted via mobile device

i would run another 50 hour cyclce with reg oil, then switch to royal purple or mobil 1

ray0311
08-24-2010, 07:57 AM
i would run another 50 hour cyclce with reg oil, then switch to royal purple or mobil 1

Speaking of Royal purple here is a good article about them trying to compete with the Big Boys
197533

nuconz
08-24-2010, 10:19 AM
just wondering, does anyone use it? is it worth the extra few bucks? will it really make a difference?

i use it in the motorcycle, truck, car, and lawn mower now. the 2nd oil change in the Super Z/66 was about 95 hours and i switched to synthetic.

mictrik
09-02-2010, 04:47 AM
Run synthetic from the start if you want. It's a myth about it not allowing the seating of rings. My family and I have broken more than a few vehicles in and many pieces of equipment in on synthetics since 1976, and never had problems with oil usage or low compression. There have been many models of cars and equipment shipped from factories with synthetics in them. Educate yourselves on it and stop perpetuating myths about synthetic oils.

I agree with this... I never understood how synthetic would prevent engine "break in", which is probably much less of an issue with modern computerized machining used today anyway. Synthetic oils can well reduce wear and be more "slick" so to speak but IMO that would only result in perhaps a longer break in time rather than an improper break in.
That said,I did ask one of Shindaiwa's technical engineers about break in and he recommended i start with conventional 2-cycle oil for the first few tank fulls of my eb802. So i ran perhaps 2 gallons through it with redmax or echo oil and then switched to Motul 800 (off road).

cgaengineer
09-02-2010, 05:58 AM
all blah blah! run reg, gas. and use penz. muti 2 cycle . never had a problem.

Same here, but I'll 1 up you, I use whatever house brand oil is on sale.
Posted via Mobile Device

cgaengineer
09-02-2010, 06:07 AM
all i'll say is , what ever. to what oil to use!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! for the 2 cycles and 4 strokes. in my opinion its all hype........

And people buy it! Reminds me of Seafoam.
Posted via Mobile Device

nuconz
09-02-2010, 08:25 AM
Same here, but I'll 1 up you, I use whatever house brand oil is on sale.
Posted via Mobile Device

2nd that since all are required to meet the same standards.

nuconz
09-02-2010, 08:29 AM
I agree with this... I never understood how synthetic would prevent engine "break in", which is probably much less of an issue with modern computerized machining used today anyway. Synthetic oils can well reduce wear and be more "slick" so to speak but IMO that would only result in perhaps a longer break in time rather than an improper break in.


i read an article on this about motorcycle engine break-in. so i decided to just follow it since the motorcycle i own only requires 1 liter of oil! also, some have claimed "blow-by" on kohler mower engines when using synthetic too soon, so i waited until almost 100 hours to switch.

alanauer
09-02-2010, 08:57 AM
Is your oil now sold in litres rather than quarts/gallons?

nuconz
09-02-2010, 10:00 AM
Is your oil now sold in litres rather than quarts/gallons?

nope, usually buy 1 or 2 quarts, depending whether any remains from previous oil change. the oil has to be non "energy conserving" in order to avoid clutch slippage. the energy conserving is more "slick" than the non energy conserving.

overtime mp
09-02-2010, 10:20 AM
i have been running nothing but AMSOIl in alll my stuff. mowers, trimmers, blowers, chainsaw, and all my vehicals. they have been preforming alot better and cooler. my snowblower before AMSOIL wouldnt wanna start up in winter oil so cold last winter notices 100% better starting

cgaengineer
09-02-2010, 11:52 AM
nope, usually buy 1 or 2 quarts, depending whether any remains from previous oil change. the oil has to be non "energy conserving" in order to avoid clutch slippage. the energy conserving is more "slick" than the non energy conserving.

I'll second this, my quad takes almost 4 qts with filter and it specifies a certain type that works with clutches since most motorcycles are wet type clutches.
Posted via Mobile Device

overtime mp
09-02-2010, 12:00 PM
alot of oils say for wet clutch or not. had someone put oil in his quad that was wet but was to use dry. he rebuilt the trans a month later

cgaengineer
09-02-2010, 12:13 PM
alot of oils say for wet clutch or not. had someone put oil in his quad that was wet but was to use dry. he rebuilt the trans a month later

????????

The only clutch I know of besides a Polaris style belt/clutch are all wet clutches.
Posted via Mobile Device

overtime mp
09-02-2010, 01:41 PM
thats what the guy had told me. after that he started with amsoil.
I am not a quad Person so i dont know how they really go.

cgaengineer
09-02-2010, 02:13 PM
thats what the guy had told me. after that he started with amsoil.
I am not a quad Person so i dont know how they really go.

I don't understand what you are trying to say.
Posted via Mobile Device

Richard Martin
09-02-2010, 03:23 PM
2nd that since all are required to meet the same standards.

Required by who? No oil is required to meet anybody's standards. did you know you can still buy SA rated oil in the auto parts store today?

If an oil meets a specific manufacturer's standards or the those of ISM or JASO it's because the oil manufacturer paid for the certification.

Amsoil probably markets more oil than anybody else. It costs around $100,000 to certify an oil. Amsoil doesn't sell enough Sabre to make it worthwhile to bend over backwards to satisfy Redmax or anybody else. If you don't like the oil don't buy it.

overtime mp
09-02-2010, 03:29 PM
there was a guy that put wrong oil in trans for his quad and it blew the trans. he tols me the shop that fixed it said was because he put wrong oil in it.

alanauer
09-02-2010, 06:27 PM
Richard, could you outline the most important certification symbols for gas vehicles, 2-strokes, and diesels? I used to know them but haven't kept up. Don't even know SA.

cgaengineer
09-02-2010, 07:29 PM
there was a guy that put wrong oil in trans for his quad and it blew the trans. he tols me the shop that fixed it said was because he put wrong oil in it.

As long as the manual specifies a certain oil it should be fine for wet clutch. Since the transmission and engine share the same oil it has to be a certain type.
Posted via Mobile Device

nuconz
09-03-2010, 12:35 AM
As long as the manual specifies a certain oil it should be fine for wet clutch. Since the transmission and engine share the same oil it has to be a certain type.
Posted via Mobile Device

the asian bikes require the non "energy conserving" oil as it is "less" slick due to the absence of additives. energy conserving contains additives that make the clutch slip when engaged.

motor and tranny share the same oil here. what's best for the motor might result in the clutch slipping.

this is what happens with the last 2 asian bikes i've owned.

nuconz
09-03-2010, 12:38 AM
Required by who? No oil is required to meet anybody's standards.


poor wording on my part here.

any oil rated for a particular grade whether super tech or Quaker or pennzoil brand must meet the standards defined for the grade at a minimum.

this is why i buy the super tech full synthetic when available. meets the standards and is cheaper than the others.

Richard Martin
09-03-2010, 02:54 AM
poor wording on my part here.

any oil rated for a particular grade whether super tech or Quaker or pennzoil brand must meet the standards defined for the grade at a minimum.

this is why i buy the super tech full synthetic when available. meets the standards and is cheaper than the others.

That's better.

Just because 2 oil may meet the same standard doesn't mean that both oils are the same. Here's a case in point.

I have a 28 EFI Kohler on my Dixie. Ever since I got this mower (it was used, 29 hours, haha) I've used Pennzoil regular 10w30. It has been fine. My shutoff procedure is to let it run at idlef or a minute or two and then shut it off. On restart you hit the key, it starts and the low oil horn goes off in a second or two.

Advance Auto had a sale on Castrol GTX 10w30. Both oils meet the same exact specs.

With Castrol in the engine I have to let it idle for about 5 minutes before I shut the mower off. If I don't the lifters will raise a racket for about a minute on restart. It also takes significantly longer for the low oil horn to shut off meaning it is taking longer to build oil pressure and that's not a good thing.

Richard Martin
09-03-2010, 03:47 AM
Richard, could you outline the most important certification symbols for gas vehicles, 2-strokes, and diesels? I used to know them but haven't kept up. Don't even know SA.

For modern gas and diesel engines please refer to this excellent chart from API:

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/pubs/upload/EngineOilGuide_March2010.pdf

For info on JASO see here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JASO_FC

I mentioned the SA oil for a reason. You will often find it in convience stores usually in a straight 30 wt. We have it here under the Warren name. I'm not really sure what the oil is good for. SA oil is strictly oil. ZERO additives. I can't remember the last time I saw an engine that required an oil with no detergents in it. This is what happens to an engine that has non detergent oil put in it. Bear in mind that this engine has been severely abused. Oil and filter changes were rare. But this is what your engine would look like if you used non-detergent oil for too long.

"Just put the oil in. It'll be fine."

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb56/RMartin631/Mustang/DSCN0361.jpg

With Hurricane Earl approaching us we needed to make sure we were ready. My son-in-law brought his generator to my house for an oil change. It's a standard Coleman 5,000 watt unit with a 10 HP Briggs on it. We start it up and run it for a few minutes. Then we drained the oil and went to put the new oil in it and I asked him if I could see what he was putting in. He had the Warren straight 30 SA oil. I about had a heart attack. I explained to him about the lack of additives and how it is especially important in an engine without an oil filter that a oil with about as many additives as you can get be put in the engine. The oil is the only way to remove the contaminates from the engine. He won't be bringing any more SA oil to my house.

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 06:40 AM
For modern gas and diesel engines please refer to this excellent chart from API:

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/pubs/upload/EngineOilGuide_March2010.pdf

For info on JASO see here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JASO_FC

I mentioned the SA oil for a reason. You will often find it in convience stores usually in a straight 30 wt. We have it here under the Warren name. I'm not really sure what the oil is good for. SA oil is strictly oil. ZERO additives. I can't remember the last time I saw an engine that required an oil with no detergents in it. This is what happens to an engine that has non detergent oil put in it. Bear in mind that this engine has been severely abused. Oil and filter changes were rare. But this is what your engine would look like if you used non-detergent oil for too long.

"Just put the oil in. It'll be fine."

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb56/RMartin631/Mustang/DSCN0361.jpg

With Hurricane Earl approaching us we needed to make sure we were ready. My son-in-law brought his generator to my house for an oil change. It's a standard Coleman 5,000 watt unit with a 10 HP Briggs on it. We start it up and run it for a few minutes. Then we drained the oil and went to put the new oil in it and I asked him if I could see what he was putting in. He had the Warren straight 30 SA oil. I about had a heart attack. I explained to him about the lack of additives and how it is especially important in an engine without an oil filter that a oil with about as many additives as you can get be put in the engine. The oil is the only way to remove the contaminates from the engine. He won't be bringing any more SA oil to my house.

I have seen many engines that looked like that on the inside even when using good oils...that gunk is from lack of oil changes and although the brand of oil may play a part in the gunk, the frequency of oil changes were ultimately the cause. Also a poorly operating PCV, and bad rings will cause that as well.
Posted via Mobile Device

Richard Martin
09-03-2010, 06:50 AM
I have seen many engines that looked like that on the inside even when using good oils...that gunk is from lack of oil changes and although the brand of oil may play a part in the gunk, the frequency of oil changes were ultimately the cause.

Yeah, I think I said that.

"Bear in mind that this engine has been severely abused. Oil and filter changes were rare."

Use SA oil in an engine for the long term and it will eventually look just like the pictured engine. The quality of the oils was so bad "back in the day" that 1,000 mile oill changes were the norm and if you got 100,000 miles out of an engine you were lucky.

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 06:56 AM
Yeah, I think I said that.

"Bear in mind that this engine has been severely abused. Oil and filter changes were rare."

Use SA oil in an engine for the long term and it will eventually look just like the pictured engine. The quality of the oils was so bad "back in the day" that 1,000 mile oill changes were the norm and if you got 100,000 miles out of an engine you were lucky.

I saw that you wrote that, but I was just saying that even though the oil may have played a part in the gunk, it was mostly due to lack of maintenance. I have seen and engine that used Quaker State that looked just like that. No doubt that heat breaks down oil and causes sludge, but blaming all that engines probs in the picture on oil alone is wrong.
Posted via Mobile Device

Richard Martin
09-03-2010, 07:01 AM
but blaming all that engines probs in the picture on oil alone is wrong.

I didn't blame any of the gunk and buildup in the picture on the oil. I clearly laid the blame on infrequent oil and filter changes. The picture was merely an example of what the inside of an engine might look like when SA oil is used in the long term.

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 07:20 AM
The thing is, it would look like that with synthetic or any other oil...cooking oil, marvel mystery oil if it was never changed, the rings or PCV were bad.

Wanna know something that really helps gunk engines, an EGR valve...at least the intake manifold anyway.
Posted via Mobile Device

JCLawn and more
09-03-2010, 07:50 AM
here is the bottom line on synthetics, is that the makeup of the oil is so that it takes longer to break down the oil. All oils have the same base. The additives are what is different. I use BG oils. You have to contact a sales guy to get it. Its expensive oil ($16 or so a gallon, not 5 quarts like in stores). On my diesel I could only go about 35 hours before my rotella T diesel oil would break down and start to burn. I can go 100 hours on this oil and it won't burn unless my air filter is plugged. Also my engine runs cooler on average. My grasshopper will run at 215 to 220 degrees when its hot out and working hard, so my oil is tortured. My BG sales guy deals with fleets. He said that one trucking company that he sells to has went to 60,000 mile oil changes instead of the 15,000 recommended one for semi's. The oil break down is the same at 60,000 miles with there synthetic as 15,000 miles with the standard oil. Also on my gas mower I have went to a 0-30 synthetic oil and I love it. My mower starts easier and runs way better, the same with my edger. 0-30 my held that one guys mower with oil problems. When the oil is cold its thin and starts lubricating immediately, so no dry starts. Then it thickens up rapidly with heat to 30 weight. What may help your lifters on getting oil when you first start up.

nuconz
09-03-2010, 08:31 AM
For modern gas and diesel engines please refer to this excellent chart from API:

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/pubs/upload/EngineOilGuide_March2010.pdf

For info on JASO see here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JASO_FC

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb56/RMartin631/Mustang/DSCN0361.jpg



this API chart is the one to which i refer.

don't care about the jaso because the non "energy conserving" works fine. there is an article about the additives not being "good" for the clutch due to slippage. better for the motor but makes the clutch slip. besides this motorcycle oil is very expensive so i use the cheaper and it revs to 13k+ rpms just fine.

that isn't a photo of a 10 hp briggs... (ha,ha)

Richard Martin
09-03-2010, 08:55 AM
The thing is, it would look like that with synthetic or any other oil...cooking oil, marvel mystery oil if it was never changed, the rings or PCV were bad.

You've COMPLETELY missed my point.

IF YOU USE SA EXCLUSIVELY, LONG TERM, YOU WILL HAVE THAT KIND OF OF BUILDUP NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO. YOU CAN CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER EVERY 50 HOURS, YOU WILL STILL ULTIMATELY END UP WITH THAT KIND OF BUILDUP.

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 10:44 AM
that isn't a photo of a 10 hp briggs... (ha,ha)

I wasn't referring to B&S engine, I was an ASE certified auto mechanic for 6+ years and I have seen that type of buildup regardless of the oil type used. It all comes down to your oil change frequency, and maintenance. Also engine gunk can be worse in engines that are not ran until heated up or the engine running too cool (missing thermostat, fan running all the time, short trips).
Posted via Mobile Device

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 10:52 AM
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm here is some good information. For those of you who prolong your oil changes because you use synthetic you may want to read on...
Posted via Mobile Device

nuconz
09-03-2010, 12:29 PM
I wasn't referring to B&S engine


:hammerhead::hammerhead:

did you see the (ha,ha)?

:hammerhead::hammerhead:


:usflag:

JCLawn and more
09-03-2010, 12:29 PM
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm here is some good information. For those of you who prolong your oil changes because you use synthetic you may want to read on...
Posted via Mobile Device

that is some good info. I don't think a dealer will do a better job than yourself. I think you can testify to some stuff the dealers do. He have a place near us that does a $13 oil change. It would cost a minimum of $15 to do my own with the cheapest everything. It costs me $26 to my oil change on my diesel mower, thats at cost!

JCLawn and more
09-03-2010, 12:43 PM
well it make the point that synthetic oil wont break down as easy so the oil it self last longer, but the problem is the contaminates. So its more of a issue of filtering the engine. Like he made the point on semi's they just replace the filter and not the oil. lol I work for a guy that has a 1940 something MF tractor. He told me that that tractor has never had a oil change and his family has had it since it was new lol!!!!!! It has to have like 5,000 hours or more.

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 01:09 PM
:hammerhead::hammerhead:

did you see the (ha,ha)?

:hammerhead::hammerhead:


:usflag:

I did, but I took it as a crack.
Posted via Mobile Device

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 01:20 PM
that is some good info. I don't think a dealer will do a better job than yourself. I think you can testify to some stuff the dealers do. He have a place near us that does a $13 oil change. It would cost a minimum of $15 to do my own with the cheapest everything. It costs me $26 to my oil change on my diesel mower, thats at cost!

I generally take my autos to a quick lube. For auto service I do it myself, as for my mowers I change the oil and do my own repairs on them.
Posted via Mobile Device

JCLawn and more
09-03-2010, 02:00 PM
I really hate having other people work on my stuff. But you got to do what you got to do.

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 02:15 PM
I really hate having other people work on my stuff. But you got to do what you got to do.

Me too, I don't even like paying someone to change the oil, but for the cost I cannot do it myself. I pay nobody to fix anything at my home...I even repair appliances and our central a/c
Posted via Mobile Device

The Rookie
09-03-2010, 02:21 PM
I use conventional valvoline sae 30 in my bb outlaw. conventional valvoline 20w50 in my hydraulics. Have over 200 hours and no problems. Thinking about putting a synthetic in the hydraulics though. I wonder if mobil 1 15w50 is close enough to 20w50 or if I need to find a 20w50 synthetic.?

cgaengineer
09-03-2010, 02:24 PM
I use conventional valvoline sae 30 in my bb outlaw. conventional valvoline 20w50 in my hydraulics. Have over 200 hours and no problems. Thinking about putting a synthetic in the hydraulics though. I wonder if mobil 1 15w50 is close enough to 20w50 or if I need to find a 20w50 synthetic.?

I run straight 40w in my 17 Kawi and in my Snapper with the Kawi. Works fine. The hydros on Toro specify Mobile 1 synthetic, I'm sure the hydros on your Bad Boy are the same brand but I would check with Bad Boy about that.
Posted via Mobile Device

Richard Martin
09-03-2010, 04:21 PM
well it make the point that synthetic oil wont break down as easy so the oil it self last longer, but the problem is the contaminates. So its more of a issue of filtering the engine. Like he made the point on semi's they just replace the filter and not the oil. lol I work for a guy that has a 1940 something MF tractor. He told me that that tractor has never had a oil change and his family has had it since it was new lol!!!!!! It has to have like 5,000 hours or more.

Amsoil bypass filters make all the difference in the world. A lot of Dixies come with them and it's the reason you can reasonably expect a Dixie engine to go to 4,000 hours and beyond. People give me a hard time about only changing the oil in my mower and not the normal Purolator Pure 1 filter. The bypass filter is catching everything. If the Purolator plugs up in 200 hours then I have a bigger problem than not changing the filter.

I have also read at Bob Is The Oil Guy that the problem with synthetics isn't the oil breaking down. It's the additive package depleteing out. That's going to happen with any oil.

JCLawn and more
09-03-2010, 07:23 PM
Amsoil bypass filters make all the difference in the world. A lot of Dixies come with them and it's the reason you can reasonably expect a Dixie engine to go to 4,000 hours and beyond. People give me a hard time about only changing the oil in my mower and not the normal Purolator Pure 1 filter. The bypass filter is catching everything. If the Purolator plugs up in 200 hours then I have a bigger problem than not changing the filter.

I have also read at Bob Is The Oil Guy that the problem with synthetics isn't the oil breaking down. It's the additive package depleteing out. That's going to happen with any oil.

yep yep and yep

WestGaLawnCare
09-04-2010, 11:45 AM
Engine oil does three things: lubricates, cleans and cools the engine.

The difference between synthetic versus conventional oil is that synthetic oil in theory doesn't loose viscosity where as organic oil will become thinner and loose viscosity. When the viscosity breaks down the oil looses it's ability to lubricate.

However, even synthetic oil should be changed regularly because over time the oil will accumulate dirt and small metal fragments that limit the oil's ability to clean and cool the engine.

A motorcycle mechanic once recommended to me that I run organic oil in my motorcycle until the break in period was over and then use synthetic oil thereafter. That's what I've done with my mowers.

I believe the superior lubricating qualities of synthetic oil will greatly extend engine life.

JCLawn and more
09-04-2010, 09:15 PM
Engine oil does three things: lubricates, cleans and cools the engine.

The difference between synthetic versus conventional oil is that synthetic oil in theory doesn't loose viscosity where as organic oil will become thinner and loose viscosity. When the viscosity breaks down the oil looses it's ability to lubricate.

However, even synthetic oil should be changed regularly because over time the oil will accumulate dirt and small metal fragments that limit the oil's ability to clean and cool the engine.

A motorcycle mechanic once recommended to me that I run organic oil in my motorcycle until the break in period was over and then use synthetic oil thereafter. That's what I've done with my mowers.

I believe the superior lubricating qualities of synthetic oil will greatly extend engine life.

the other thing about standard oil is that is starts to break down at 180 degrees.

zo6
03-30-2011, 01:50 AM
can anyone answer this? I have 8 hrs on my kai and have to change the oil, i dunno whether to use conv or syn yet?
posted via mobile device

i would probably go one more chage with reg 10w 30 and then switch over to amsoil or royal purple

JCLawn and more
03-30-2011, 07:00 AM
or Mobil. I use BG and love it