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fathaz_luv
05-02-2010, 01:21 AM
How much does a shallow well cost? Will it be enough to support watering my lawn because I am on city water and I'm being charged water and sewer every time water is being used regardless if it's in the sewer or on my lawn.

AI Inc
05-02-2010, 06:15 AM
depends on the water table and a few other things. Typicaly between $1800 and $3000

RAlmaroad
05-02-2010, 06:33 AM
How much does a shallow well cost? Will it be enough to support watering my lawn because I am on city water and I'm being charged water and sewer every time water is being used regardless if it's in the sewer or on my lawn.

How shallow are we talking? On the coast it's only 16-20 feet to the water. Do you have sand or clay. Coastal wells and I've put in several can be put in without drilling. Let me know. I've started around 8 in the morning and left at lunch with a pump in place.

I think you're maybe 50 miles from the coast and will have to drill. Check with some people at a hardware as ask how it is typically done. Well rigs typically cost $12.00/ft. However they may charge more since the shallow well will cost to transport the rig. They case until they hit rock??? Maybe none there. On the flow, it depends on the rate of the water available. Do a lot of phone calls.

cgaengineer
05-02-2010, 09:43 AM
How much does a shallow well cost? Will it be enough to support watering my lawn because I am on city water and I'm being charged water and sewer every time water is being used regardless if it's in the sewer or on my lawn.

A second meter would be cheaper initially, but a well would be cheaper in the long run.

hdtvluvr
05-02-2010, 05:28 PM
A second meter would be cheaper initially, but a well would be cheaper in the long run.

+1

However, you should know that you may have iron in the water from the well. If you do it will discolor whatever it lands on - cars, side of the house, sidewalk, etc.

If you find someone to drill be sure to ask what quality of water to expect. While they can't guaranteed it, they should know a little about the area from the other wells they've dug.

Also, if you are in the city, there may be an ordinance against drilling a well.

cgaengineer
05-02-2010, 05:39 PM
+1


Also, if you are in the city, there may be an ordinance against drilling a well.

Especially if he has a small lot and is close to a house with a septic system. Around here its 100' minimum from any septic system. I took it as his neighborhood was all on sewer.
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24v6spd
05-02-2010, 07:40 PM
Depending on what type of soil you have, you may be able to drive your own shallow well.

KarlP
05-03-2010, 12:18 PM
Depending on what type of soil you have, you may be able to drive your own shallow well.

Like this -
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/naturalresources/DD0951.html

If you don't have lot of rocks or any bedrock and you have a good idea that the water is less than 25' down you can try to put a point and pump in yourself in one long day. I've done it several times and its only about $200 plus a pump.

You need a point, four drive couplers, a 20' piece of pipe, a 10' piece of pipe, and some good pipe dope. Tools you'll need are two pipe wrenches, a pipe threader, a pipe cutter (or hacksaw), a sacrificial 1' long pipe nipple that you'll deform while beating the pipe into the ground, fence post driver (or sledge hammer, drive cap, and stepladder) to drive with.

I've found the fewer joints the less chance of leaks so I like to use longer pieces of pipe. I first dig a really wide ~4' deep hole I can stand in. I then dig a ~5' deep really skinny hole with a post hole digger in the bottom of the 4' diameter hole.

I take a 20' pipe and cut off a 12' piece of pipe rethread it with my cheapo Harbor Freight threader. I drop the point, 12' pipe, and 1' sacrificial pipe with point attached with a drive fitting well sealed with permatex into the hole. I drive it with a fence post driver or sledge hammer while standing on level ground. Its best if I have a helper who can turn the pipe a 1/4 turn after every hit or two on the pipe. I keep going till the top of the pipe is 1' from the bottom of my wide hole.

At this point I drop a string down with a nut tied on it down the pipe. Hopefully I have 5-6' of wet string in the pipe at this point. If not, I attach the 10' piece with a drive coupling and a lot of permatex, drive it to a few inches above ground level, and check again. If I don't have 5-6' of wet string I drive the 10' piece down the extra 3' to about 1' above the bottom of the wide hole and check again. If not 5-6' of wet string I screw the 8' cut off piece of pipe on drive it about 3', and check again. If I don't have any water in the pipe at this point I'm screwed and I try to hoist the whole thing back up while twisting the pipe a lot. I figure a 50% chance of getting the point back.

Even with the 1' sacrificial pipe nipple you may deform the top of the top pipe. If this happens you'll need to cut it off and rethread it before connecting the next section of pipe. For this reason I suggest you have a pipe threader handy.

Once you have 5-6' of water in the pipe (water level is 2-3' above the top of the point), hook up a pump and pump. If you are going to use a tank bypass it during the initial pumping. You'll probably pump a lot of sand at first, but the water should clear up after you pump a few hundred gallons.

Any major plumbing store should have all the parts you need and might even have advice. My local Home Depot even stocks points, drive couplings, and shallow suction pumps. I've had bad luck with the continuous stainless steel points. I've found perforated galvanized pipe with screen to be more durable and less expensive.

fathaz_luv
05-05-2010, 08:17 AM
My lot is a small lot in a subdivision. We do have an ordiance that will not allow you to put any well 40' from any permenant structure (ie home, storage house, etc). I have a sandy lot in the city with all sewer systems. A guy from PWC said our area is nothing but water underground so i would venture to say water is abundant here. I just do not believe in paying for it anymore.