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Shem's
05-05-2010, 04:09 AM
I recently rebuilt a wall another company did. Their wall was 85' long and 6' at one end and 10' at the other with flat yard behind and 6' foot of drop on the front side. There wall failed, as in the yard behind sunk and pushed the high part of the wall out maybe two feet, but not over. They used Standards and some grid. Standards are 21 inches deep and 115lbs with pinned system. I came in and tore out everything. we rebuilt the the six foot tall area the same and split the 10' section with a 5' wall where the other wall was and took the other 4' section (one row buried so its 4') and wentback about 10' at the widest part of the arch and put steps down the middle of that to get to the new patio area. My question is, where the 10' wall was we had to dig back a lot of dirt for thenew patio area, some grid was left in the ground behind the 5' tall wall so I did not wantto disturb the soil that had the grid for seven years. So we took 3" ( thick) 7'long metal post and placed them into the Keystone standard voids, going through all the blocks verticaly
then 2-3 feet into the ground. We put 2' wide of rock behind the wall for drainage with a tube. one inch set back/block. I think the post are going to hold the wall from going forward and make the wall very strong. never heard of anyone doing this. We also put a 4' wall about 15' in front of that wall to hold the hillside in front of that. That was made ofthe Keystone standards also. behind that we put up a chainlink fence 3' tall angled back pretty good to hold the hill and fresh dirt,then filled that whole area (3'+ between fence and wall) with 2inch clean rock/tube. My local block dealer reps said it sounds strong. They say you can go 6' tall with standards without grid, I know every single job is different. I'm doing my walls stronger and stronger every year because I wonder everytime we get 3-5" rainfalls in a day or two and extreme winters. I want MY walls to last for the customers. Let me know,can send B4 and after shots of this. Thanks, Ryan.

DVS Hardscaper
05-05-2010, 06:02 PM
Your post was kinda hard to follow. Scattered.

But - I'm not thrilled about you taking the matter into your own hands. What I mean is - the rebuild should have been engineered by AN ENGINEER. This way it's their liability.

The "local block dealer reps" are typically not engineers. They'll seldom tell us contractors that we're foolish....

Bru75
05-05-2010, 07:53 PM
Seems like engineering would be required by the building dept. for that job.
You are taking a big risk by experimenting.

Shem's
05-06-2010, 12:51 AM
The bottom wall has the fence built behind it, and post in the block too. The upper walls have the post in the blocks then into the ground 2-3'. I read about a state project where they attached pipes to a concrete wall then built block wall in front and attached wires from the pipes to the blocks then core filled. They couldn't move the pre existing concrete wall. Thanks, let me know what you think.

Reconwalls
05-07-2010, 10:05 PM
Use ReCon Walls Systems and you could do it without grid. They are a big block product. They have done gravity walls(no geo-grid) up to 20' in height