View Full Version : HEY CHUCK!
04-20-2000, 10:53 PM
Hey guys, I'm eating sour grapes lately.<br>Last Dec. my truck engine caught on fire. I have an 87 1/2 ton Silverado 4x4 with TBI & a P.O.S. 305. Ins. replaced the wiring harness, & I fig. it'd be a good time to beef up the motor a little.<br>So I ended up with about $1000 just in parts- 268 comp cams cam kit, new H2O pump, timing chain, centerbolt valve covers, new cap/plugs/rotor/wires, & an Accel elec. Super Coil, EGR valve, water neck, gaskets, etc. etc. etc. What I didn't realize is they were the most expensive in town for labor! So I have dumbfoundedly spent $3200 in parts & labor, & it runs only 20-25% better than before. And it's still a 305.<br>Now the kicker- my engine is smoking alot on / after idling, & drinks a qt. of oil every 3 days. Turns out I have a/some worn piston rings, & 20% leakage after doing a compression check. Dumb a**es didn't check it the first time (I guess they couldn't fully maybe cause all it would do is crank but no fire up-but that's all you need anyways, isn't it?)<br>Anyways, they're telling me $1300 to go in , tear it down, fix it & put together again. I say bull s**t! I coulda had a 383 stroker by now.<br>Guy in town has rebuilt 350's with 2 yr. warranty for $900. I'm thinking of going that route. Any suggestions? Would it be better to try & retrofit a 350 to work with my computer junk & TBI, or bypass computer & put carb & intake on it?<br>Please help!!<br>----------<br>Smitty ô¿ô<p><br>
04-21-2000, 07:37 AM
I'd go for the 350. You might be able to get away with just changing the prom. Then after its running, If it stays lean you can replace the injectors. Fuel injection is the way to go. <br>PS. I have seen alot of problems with that vintage engine. Apparently they used very hard rings for the pistons. Any way the rings eat the cylinder wall and gouge it all up, Then they eat oil and smoke.<br>
04-21-2000, 05:48 PM
Smitty,<br>Here's what I would do. Go to your local GM Parts dealers and get one of their new 350s. They are like 1300 or so I think. I know that's 400 more than a rebuilt, but at least you know your not getting a 350 that's been bored 4 times and is on it last leg. I think I saw GM had a 36 month guarentee. Not, sure but I think that's what I saw. I went another route with my old Chevy. I got a good short blook out of a 72 El Camino, put new rod bearings, a new PAW cam, edelbroke performer RPM intake, headers, an HEI distributer and a 750 carter. I didn't bore the block or even take the pistons out, but I had the heads redone. Now, for about 40 bucks, I had a stout 350 that has enough balls to burn the rear tires in low threw second gear (i'll have pictures on my web site soon of it). But, it also is pretty labor intensive to do it. <br>See ya<p>----------<br>Bill Herz<br>http://members.tripod.com/mopar00
04-22-2000, 10:05 PM
I have installed several GM engines in trucks and cars, They work out very nice. You get every thing new. only have to install manifolds, Fuel and Iginition systems. they worked out great, And I got a lot of good GM parts because there was not core charge. <br>Food For Thought.
04-23-2000, 12:51 AM
Smitty, I know "I told you so" is not what you want to hear. I've said it before, and I'll say it again. You can't beef up the top end, on a worn motor. The bottom end will be the weak link then....<br>I'd go with what the other guys say, and get a crate motor from GM. Even Jasper sells the 350 to shops for about $1,000. You can expect to pay another $1,000 - 1,500 to get it installed. I know the shop should have checked the compression, but I guess they just want your money. I mean many shops are that way. If you bring them and alternator say, and tell them to put it on, because your battery keeps going dead, they will. They won't check the battery, to see if it's the cause. THe next day, when you call, they will sell you a battery. The GOOD shop will tell you to return the alt., because you need a battery. Same as a good shop would tell you not to build up a motor with over 70,000 miles on it. Sorry you got taken for a ride, so to speak. They did what you wanted. <br>Prices vary from area to area, my buddy's shop gets $70 an hour labor. Multiply that by book time for swapping an engine, and you get some scarry numbers! If the shop you went to, does quality work, you might want to spend the $1300, and get the bottom end done. It would be cheaper, but if they offer no warranty, I'd go with the GoodWrench crate motor. 36,000 mile warranty.<p>~Chuck<p>----------<br>Chuck's Chevy Truck Pages - Snowplowing Central<br>http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/snowplowingcentral.html
04-23-2000, 09:23 PM
Good news guys!<br>A local guy who does engines on a smaller scale is making me a deal I can't pass up. After discussing options, I'm going with the following (this is the guy with rebuilt 350 w/ 2 yr. warranty for $900):<br>I am buying a 350 4-bolt main block off him, & it will be checked & machined where needed, put new crank in, new 10 to 1 flat tops, & put my rebuilt top half on it. Parts & labor, start to finish for approx. $650. My jaw was dropping inside when he told me that! I wish I'd went with him in the first place. I will keep you all posted; thanks for your input!<p>----------<br>Smitty ô¿ô<br>
No way would I run 10-1 on the gas today. Seems like you would be better off with 9s and be able to run regular gas.
Yeah, I'd get a lower comp. ratio, because that 92 octane gas is going to get expensive fast.
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