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kirk1701
06-05-2010, 03:39 PM
Hey everyone, I have a reoccurring problem every year and have posted about it every year as I'm a bit paranoid since I lost the lawn to brown patch in 08 here. (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=235151)

Last year I posted here (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=274324&highlight=kirk1701) but think this ended up being my own doing mowing a bit too low and once I raised the deck it seemed to clear up.

This year I started a thread but probably in the wrong forum here. (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=319002) I have some high resolution pic's uploaded in this thread with links to imageshack for them.

However, the problem is getting worse since I took these photo's and with the dam humidity and constant rain we'll I can see why.

Another 3" here between Thursday into Friday (June 3 & 4) and more rain late evening on Friday and I'll be dammed if I don't hear thunder as I'm typing :cry:

Not to mention the fact that it's so humid you can't stay out longer then it did me to take the pic's below without getting soaking wet.

I'm getting a bit desperate here guys, as I said I'm paranoid of fungus since I lost the whole lawn in 08 and I've took all the advice everyone here has given even to the point of aerating last fall, spreading compost to reduce disease and changed my cultural practice and type of fertilizer this year and switched to slow release fertilizer in hopes of preventing what I'm seeing now.
http://home.insightbb.com/~kirk1701/Lawn.htm

I go back to the thread from last year with this and it don't look half as bad as it does now and I'm beginning to see Deja Vo of 08 :cry:

From the prior threads some say Avoid using fungicides but I'm considering Heritage if thats the right thing to do at this point or am I jumping the gun? And if Heritage how far will the 4 oz bottle cover as I can't find out from the pdf label online. Need to know how much to buy.

Please help, thanks in advance

dKoester
06-05-2010, 05:17 PM
Dollar spot. Use baking Soda at a rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon and it will get rid of it. I recently tried it on one of my lawn and it took care of the problem. The fungus will be gone, but the brownish/tan grass will still be there so just rake out the affected grass after about 10 days and repair those spots.

kirk1701
06-05-2010, 08:35 PM
Dollar spot. Use baking Soda at a rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon and it will get rid of it. I recently tried it on one of my lawn and it took care of the problem. The fungus will be gone, but the brownish/tan grass will still be there so just rake out the affected grass after about 10 days and repair those spots.

I sure hope that's not the case :cry:

So your saying the damage is done, can't be reversed?

Think Green
06-05-2010, 08:52 PM
In my experiences mowing the turf taller, the grass will outgrow the discoloration however, the disease is still there...........just covered up. Bermuda grass is the same in toleration.
We have treated lawns with chlorthalonil and propiconazole. It is the seasons that bring this stuff on, so prevention is needed. Chlorothalonil is a preventative and propiconazole is a preventative and curative............according to my labels.
Baking Soda is a natural curative concoction and you will need to use a spreading and sticking agent with it.

attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/bakingsoda.html

dKoester
06-05-2010, 09:29 PM
A stihl backpack sprayer will work great. Gives a nice spray.

kirk1701
06-05-2010, 11:36 PM
In my experiences mowing the turf taller, the grass will outgrow the discoloration however, the disease is still there...........just covered up. Bermuda grass is the same in toleration.
We have treated lawns with chlorthalonil and propiconazole. It is the seasons that bring this stuff on, so prevention is needed. Chlorothalonil is a preventative and propiconazole is a preventative and curative............according to my labels.
Baking Soda is a natural curative concoction and you will need to use a spreading and sticking agent with it.

attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/bakingsoda.html

Thanks Think Green,
I found the label online and from what I can tell so far propiconazole is used in a combination with Heritage no?

Trying to understand as this was on the label:
Tank Mixtures - Pesticides
QUALIPRO PROPICONAZOLE 14.3 ME can be tank mixed with ONLY ONE of the
following partners: DACONIL® 2787 Flowable Fungicide or HERITAGE® Fungicide
or Primo MAXX® Turf Growth Regulator. Read the label of DACONIL 2787 Flowable
Fungicide or HERITAGE Fungicide or Primo MAXX Turf Growth Regulator and follow
the precautionary statement, directions for use (rates, diseases controlled and application
intervals) and other restrictions.

I'd try the baking soda but dKoester said it won't help the turf, just rid the turf of the fungus and I'm looking for a curitive Fungicide. However you say baking soda is a curitive measure????

I'm not concerned of price, as I've done put a lot of time and effort and long days getting the yard to where it is now so a couple hundred on a treatment like Heritage would not be out of the question if it will work for me?

ted putnam
06-06-2010, 11:54 AM
While I have no real experience with cool season turf, I am with Koester and say that it appears to be dollar spot which we do deal with in our bermudas here. For the most part, we fert them and get it to grow out. In extreme cases, we would spray Clearys or Chipco fungicide. Heritage may be labeled for it but it's expensive and may be overkill. Also, it has been my experience that you never get rid of the disease completely. Those spores are always in the system waiting for conditions to be just right fo them to do their thing. Many of these perfect conditions are beyond your control(rain, humidity, temps)

kirk1701
06-06-2010, 12:16 PM
Thanks Ted,
So if it is indeed Dollar Spot and I've been doing a lot of reading as you can imagine, I hate to lose what I've put into this lawn once again.

Didn't take me long to find this:
Dollar Spot: Heritage does not control dollar spot. Heritage is compatible in tank mixes with many
other fungicides that control dollar spot. Always tank mix Heritage with another fungicide that controls
dollar spot when this disease is present.

I guess I'm thinking Brown Patch because that's what's in the back of my mind still from when it was diagnosed the last time. However it was TrueGreen that did the diagnoses without even having got out of the truck so knowing what I know now about TG I guess I can also take that with a grain of salt.

I found Chipco® 26GT fungicide on Southern States web site? Is this the same thing? If so I'll be heading down there 8 AM tomorrow :drinkup:

They also have Chipco® Signature how does this compare?

Thanks in advance

dKoester
06-06-2010, 01:08 PM
Baking Soda is a curative Kirk. Those spots will be brown until they grow out or get repaired. However, after brown patch you will have to repair those spots if its a cool season non rhizome forming grass. Some fescues form rhizomes.

RigglePLC
06-06-2010, 02:07 PM
Kiek:
I am not a believer in Kitchen products for fungus control. Less costly of course. And...furthermore I am from far north of you--no personal experience with brown patch. It looks to me like Prostar(2 oz) and Heritage TL (use at 1 ounce per thousand sq ft) are the best fungicides for Brown Patch.
http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Diseases/Brown_Patch.aspx

Thiophanate-methyl, and iprodione(Chipco 26019) are also good and probably available at larger garden stores.
It appears the Cleary's 3336 (thiophanate-methyl) is the least costly,
http://www.turfnology.com/ChempricesCOMPARE.pdf

Take the advice of plant pathologists for this disease. Try to irrigate only early in the morning. Water deep and only twice per week to avoid wetting the leaves more than necessary. Disease becomes active in humid weather when nighttime temps remain above 60 degrees. Fungus resistant tall fescue cultivars are a good bet.

kirk1701
06-06-2010, 03:20 PM
Kiek:
I am not a believer in Kitchen products for fungus control. Less costly of course. And...furthermore I am from far north of you--no personal experience with brown patch. It looks to me like Prostar(2 oz) and Heritage TL (use at 1 ounce per thousand sq ft) are the best fungicides for Brown Patch.
http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Diseases/Brown_Patch.aspx

Thiophanate-methyl, and iprodione(Chipco 26019) are also good and probably available at larger garden stores.
It appears the Cleary's 3336 (thiophanate-methyl) is the least costly,
http://www.turfnology.com/ChempricesCOMPARE.pdf

Take the advice of plant pathologists for this disease. Try to irrigate only early in the morning. Water deep and only twice per week to avoid wetting the leaves more than necessary. Disease becomes active in humid weather when nighttime temps remain above 60 degrees. Fungus resistant tall fescue cultivars are a good bet.

Got to agree Riggle it does resemble BPatch more then it does Dspots. I just took a look at the link from NSCU then seached DSpots on NSCU and dollar spots seem to look smaller in diameter and a lot more greyish to almost white in color.
http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Diseases/Dollar_Spot.aspx

I've attached more pic's as of today.

As for the irrigating, thats how I got to where I'm at and a bit beyond my control, 10" of rain in March and June has been much of the same so far with the last tweek being 70% humidity, late evening showers and above 70 degrees for overnight lows.

What's your thought on Heritage G as its granular?


Baking Soda is a curative Kirk. Those spots will be brown until they grow out or get repaired. However, after brown patch you will have to repair those spots if its a cool season non rhizome forming grass. Some fescues form rhizomes.

No offense Koester so please don't take it as such, I'm a bit old fashion and guess I always go by the old saying "if it sounds to good to be true it probably is". Not that I don't believe you or that it won't work I'd just feel better putting something down that was made specifically for fungus and leave the baking soda in the pinto beans to take care of the gas :drinkup:

kirk1701
06-06-2010, 03:22 PM
oops, forgot the pics.

kirk1701
06-06-2010, 11:46 PM
We'll guys I've found out why this keeps coming back every year now. As many times as I've posted about this no one has mentioned this I'm a bit surprised.

I've been told that once you have the fungus unless you treat it will stay dormant in the ground and come back every year when conditions are favorable.

So, me be on my way to Southern States tomorrow for the 4 oz bottle of Heritage and then I'll probably repeat in 14 days. Next spring I've been told to alternate the fungicide don't use the same one so I'll switch to the Prostar for preventive measure before it has a chance to start.

As for Heritage, .02 to .04 ounces per gallon my question here is there a beaker I can by or a simply way to measure this as I'm going to be using a 4 gallon back pack sprayer mixing 4 gallon at a time?

Hell Koester I might even put the baking soda down for kicks and giggles and an extra layer of protection now. :drinkup:
Honestly man, hope you didn't take offense to my not wanting to go that route? Thanks for the suggestion though; hope there's no hard feelings right?

dKoester
06-07-2010, 12:35 AM
Its all good here man. No hard feelings.

BZACK
06-07-2010, 12:30 PM
Check with your local pharmacy and ask for an oral syringe to measure 5 ml (1 tsp) or less.

kirk1701
06-07-2010, 05:22 PM
Check with your local pharmacy and ask for an oral syringe to measure 5 ml (1 tsp) or less.

Now that's a nice idea but does the syringe mease in CC or tenths of an ounce?

I need tenths of an ounce as the Heritage is .02 ounces per 1,000

rlitman
06-07-2010, 06:02 PM
Now that's a nice idea but does the syringe mease in CC or tenths of an ounce?

I need tenths of an ounce as the Heritage is .02 ounces per 1,000

You should try:
http://www.unit-conversion.info/volume.html
and get with the metric system, as that's the only thing you'll find for smaller quantities.

0.02oz around 0.6mL

greendoctor
06-08-2010, 01:03 AM
Unless you are using Heritage TL, you need a scale that weighs in tenths of an ounce. Heritage in a 4 oz bottle is a DF that must be dissolved in water. 2-4 gallons of water per 1000 sq ft if I remember correctly.

BZACK
06-08-2010, 11:41 AM
Now that's a nice idea but does the syringe mease in CC or tenths of an ounce?

I need tenths of an ounce as the Heritage is .02 ounces per 1,000

You can also get various size oral syringes (1, 3, 5, 10 ml, etc.) on line. With 1 ml syringes, you can measure to 0.05 ml if you need that small a volume. For 4 gallons, you can measure 2.4 ml with a 3 ml syringe. About $15 for 100 syringes, so cheap enough for single use so you don't cross contaminate, etc.

Bill

kirk1701
06-08-2010, 11:57 AM
Thanks guys, the Heritage just shipped so as per label mow a couple days before applying.

Mowing today, should be applying Friday and I still need to calibrate the sprayer and practice putting it down evenly before Friday.

Pretty much all I've ever had to do in the past is spot spray so wasn't a big deal.

As per measuring it out this time I'm going with this formula:

1 ounce into 128 ounces of water
this will be the concentrate and will do 5,000 SQ FT

backpack sprayer holds 4 gallon so 25 ounces per gallon or 100 ounces to 4 gallon which should do 4,000 SQ FT.

Easy and efficient :drinkup:

kirk1701
06-10-2010, 01:13 PM
Hey guys,
Want to get your honest opinions on how bad you all think this looks and get an idea if its going to fully recover or partly recover after I apply the Heritage?

I mowed night before last and it was too dark to get pic's afterwards so I got pics yesterday. To me it don't look as bad as I expected it to look after mowing so want to get you all's professional opinion. :drinkup:

Heritage should be here tomorrow, spraying Saturday.

kirk1701
06-10-2010, 01:19 PM
Sorry, here's the pic I meant to post as one of the two above was at the same angle trying to get while sun was shining. :)

kirk1701
06-12-2010, 10:24 AM
Wishing one of you guys would respond to the question I posted above please :drinkup:

Anyhow,
Heritage came yesterday everyone, got it out on the lawn and it was actually the first time I used the backpack sprayer to do a blanket coat application. So yes, before I applied I calibrated the sprayer in the driveway to get a feel for how fast to walk to put down 1 gallon for 1,000 SQ FT. Usually I fill it up half way or mix up 1 gallon of herbicide at a time and spot spray weeds.

So carrying 4 gallon around for 3 hours needless to say I'm a bit sore this morning :cry:
Made for a great workout I should do it more often.

I did screw up so I have to tell you so everyone gets a good laugh.
The stuff is 4 ounces net weight I didn't catch that. :confused:

I was measuring it out in a round-up top to 1 fluid ounce and when I got to the last ounce I had more product left which I knew I should not had more then 4 ounces :nono:

I guess in my case 2 wrongs did make a right as of I divided it out to 5 equal 1 fluid ounce for 4 gallon I applied at 0.2 ounces per 1,000 which ended up being for the better because I was hoping for pop up T-Storm to wash it in last night which didn't happen.

grassman177
06-12-2010, 12:50 PM
i wish i could help, but i am color blind, and far away pics do me no good, i need pics of the close up of individual plants to see the lesions and root zone. sorry man, but good thing fungicides are broad spectrum, it will likely(i assume you are not a applicator) take care of the problem. ever think of calling the extension agent out to diagnose, or even a cert applicator of a reputable company??

kirk1701
06-12-2010, 02:46 PM
i wish i could help, but i am color blind, and far away pics do me no good, i need pics of the close up of individual plants to see the lesions and root zone. sorry man, but good thing fungicides are broad spectrum, it will likely(i assume you are not a applicator) take care of the problem. ever think of calling the extension agent out to diagnose, or even a cert applicator of a reputable company??

I have one up close in the original post in this thread and another here
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/9848/img0328n.jpg

Your right I'm not an applicator but I'm sure its brown patch as I got hit a couple years back as also stated in the original post. Last time I got hit I didn't know what to do and besides I shouldn't of had to as TruGreen was doing my lawn, which is also why they are not doing it anymore.

Let me know if you need more close-ups I'll get them, but think you answered the question already. Heritage will keep it from dieing now and reverse the damage.

dougiefresh1967
06-20-2010, 05:59 PM
Hello Kirk, over here in plum springs with the same problem. I sure would like to know the results of your spraying of the lawn. Keep us updated. I need to do something to mine also. My lawn is the nicest in the neighborhood till the heat an humidity come, and then it does the exact same thing yours does. Man it sucks after all the hard work. But just to ease your mind, my lawn makes a full recover every year. With no dead spots. Just looks like crap in the summer. Thanks, Doug.

kirk1701
06-20-2010, 06:12 PM
Hello Kirk, over here in plum springs with the same problem. I sure would like to know the results of your spraying of the lawn. Keep us updated. I need to do something to mine also. My lawn is the nicest in the neighborhood till the heat an humidity come, and then it does the exact same thing yours does. Man it sucks after all the hard work. But just to ease your mind, my lawn makes a full recover every year. With no dead spots. Just looks like crap in the summer. Thanks, Doug.

Like this weather do yu? :laugh:
More like August then June but I think the hot weather plus the Heritage is doing my lawn good. I can pull the grass back and the main stem is brown, but I can scrape my fingernail across it and peal away the brown and find green underneath it plus new growth shooting out from the stem. :drinkup:

I'm now mowing at 4.25" due to this heat and here's a pic from Friday after mowing.

Might be my imagination but I do think it looks better then it did a week ago before I applied the fungicide

FERT-TEK
06-22-2010, 11:54 AM
Dollar spot. Use baking Soda at a rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon and it will get rid of it. I recently tried it on one of my lawn and it took care of the problem. The fungus will be gone, but the brownish/tan grass will still be there so just rake out the affected grass after about 10 days and repair those spots.

How did you make this application?

dKoester
06-22-2010, 04:28 PM
In my Stihl backpack sprayer. My brother is a chemist, he knows crazy stuff. Bio chemistry how nice. lol

dougiefresh1967
06-29-2010, 10:14 PM
Kirk, how is your lawn looking? I tried an experiment on mine. I to have been mowing over 4 inches high. I cut back to 3 inches high. My theory is with all the rain and humidity the grass is not being able to get oxygen to the roots and soil. This is just my own theory. I did this about a week ago. It is starting to come back. Some very brown patches, but i to can scrap the brown grass and see live grass. I will keep you updated on my progress.

On the bright side the barricade I used is working great no crabgrass.

kirk1701
06-29-2010, 11:06 PM
Kirk, how is your lawn looking? I tried an experiment on mine. I to have been mowing over 4 inches high. I cut back to 3 inches high. My theory is with all the rain and humidity the grass is not being able to get oxygen to the roots and soil. This is just my own theory. I did this about a week ago. It is starting to come back. Some very brown patches, but i to can scrap the brown grass and see live grass. I will keep you updated on my progress.

On the bright side the barricade I used is working great no crabgrass.

Have a look see here.
http://www.lawnsite.com/showpost.php?p=3619443&postcount=21
Heritage performed miracles and getting ready to put an app of Clearys on this weekend. I should then be done till fall I'll put another app of clearys on and then another in the spring before the humidity sets in.

See how it goes from there :drinkup:

I've been mowing as high as I can, not because of the BPatch but because of the 90-95 degree temps. I'm mowing this friday and with the temps a bit cooler I'm coming back down to 3.75" if that don't look good then 4"

jvanvliet
07-05-2010, 02:04 PM
Ack... that looks like one of my problem lawns i'm being ripped a new butt on since I posted on the pesticide page with pics. Glad I'm not alone.

Any one try Consan Triple Action 20?

kirk1701
07-05-2010, 02:14 PM
Ack... that looks like one of my problem lawns i'm being ripped a new butt on since I posted on the pesticide page with pics. Glad I'm not alone.

Any one try Consan Triple Action 20?

I just updated another thread with a new pic yesterday.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?p=3619443#post3619443

grassman177
07-05-2010, 06:22 PM
i used eagle on manylawns and mixed it with protect so i had both types of fungicide working. seems to be on progress though, i think heritage would have worked better, but i do not want to build resistance for diseases if you know what i mean. i mix it up and go different chemistry all the time when i can, i am due for a change in barricade in a year or two, but no sure what i would want to use and do, as i dont really want to go thru the list of them i have already used. i want to use somthing very different.

kirk1701
07-05-2010, 06:46 PM
i used eagle on manylawns and mixed it with protect so i had both types of fungicide working. seems to be on progress though, i think heritage would have worked better, but i do not want to build resistance for diseases if you know what i mean. i mix it up and go different chemistry all the time when i can, i am due for a change in barricade in a year or two, but no sure what i would want to use and do, as i dont really want to go thru the list of them i have already used. i want to use somthing very different.

Have you tried Clearys?
I just got a gallon for my next two preventive applications. I'm putting one down this week which I hope to last me till fall when I put the second application down.

Next spring I'm thinking about T-Storm from Lesco

jvanvliet
07-06-2010, 06:58 AM
Have you tried Clearys?
I just got a gallon for my next two preventive applications. I'm putting one down this week which I hope to last me till fall when I put the second application down.

Next spring I'm thinking about T-Storm from Lesco

Let me know how the cleary's works.

grassman177
07-06-2010, 07:22 AM
i usew clearys on shrubs and trees, i use spectro 90 which is 3336 and i think mancozeb. cant remember off hand but it is a combo fungicide. protect is a clearys product which is zinc and magnesium i think, works great as a contact

mdlwn1
07-06-2010, 07:34 AM
3336g works as a contact and a systemic. Be carefull though...resistance builds very quickly..however it can be sprayed on just about anything without worry...2 shots before rotating. Chlorotholonil is awesome...only a contact though..works instantly. The downside to Chlorotholonil is that it's very easy to burn or stunt when applyed on a hot day or at full rate in full sun....and may last as short as a week. Propiconizole is very good, but its only a systemic....must get into the plant before taking affect.

kirk1701
07-06-2010, 09:13 AM
3336g works as a contact and a systemic. Be carefull though...resistance builds very quickly..however it can be sprayed on just about anything without worry...2 shots before rotating. Chlorotholonil is awesome...only a contact though..works instantly. The downside to Chlorotholonil is that it's very easy to burn or stunt when applyed on a hot day or at full rate in full sun....and may last as short as a week. Propiconizole is very good, but its only a systemic....must get into the plant before taking affect.

Thanks for the heads up mdlwn1, upper 90's here right now and I was going to apply this evening or tomorrow evening so guess I'd better hold off on that.

I have to admit thought, the Heritage did a miracle, OMG!!!! Lawn is lush deep green like I've never seen before :cool2:

Well worth the money

kirk1701
07-06-2010, 02:22 PM
3336g works as a contact and a systemic. Be carefull though...resistance builds very quickly..however it can be sprayed on just about anything without worry...2 shots before rotating. Chlorotholonil is awesome...only a contact though..works instantly. The downside to Chlorotholonil is that it's very easy to burn or stunt when applyed on a hot day or at full rate in full sun....and may last as short as a week. Propiconizole is very good, but its only a systemic....must get into the plant before taking affect.

mdlwn1
Think I misunderstood your post???

Clearys won't burn or stun Chlorotholonil will; right?

Besides, even though its hot here I'll be applying this evening not in the sun.

ricsin1
07-06-2010, 02:49 PM
QUESTION - my lawn is suffering from this brown patch fungus - that along with the high heat/humidity in Atlanta, Ga (zip=30314) about 80-90% of my fescue lawn is tan/straw colored and the grass looks DEAD... it was nice & plush - deep green about 4" tall at its best but now im pretty sure its all dead or dying!!

I used one application of Spectracide Immunox Lawn Disease Control Granules so far - of course I didn't see any difference - they say it takes 2-3 applications but how do I know its working? what I am going to see... is there anyway to get the straw colored grass back to green or is it officially RIP and I just have to start over...? or should I just scalp the whole lawn - try to baby the remaining little bit of green grass and start over in the fall and reseed?

kirk1701
07-06-2010, 02:58 PM
QUESTION - my lawn is suffering from this brown patch fungus - that along with the high heat/humidity in Atlanta, Ga (zip=30314) about 80-90% of my fescue lawn is tan/straw colored and the grass looks DEAD... it was nice & plush - deep green about 4" tall at its best but now im pretty sure its all dead or dying!!

I used one application of Spectracide Immunox Lawn Disease Control Granules so far - of course I didn't see any difference - they say it takes 2-3 applications but how do I know its working? what I am going to see... is there anyway to get the straw colored grass back to green or is it officially RIP and I just have to start over...? or should I just scalp the whole lawn - try to baby the remaining little bit of green grass and start over in the fall and reseed?

Depends on how bad off it is and how long you've let it go. Can you post us some pics?

As for the Spectracide Immunox; might as well just sprayed water its not going to fight this kind of disease off.

dougiefresh1967
07-10-2010, 09:59 PM
Kirk how is the lawn looking now? Man the dry weather and heat has mine looking awful. Glad the heritage worked for you. Do you think it is to late in the summer to put down on my lawn? Looks like it is past help. I need to get rid of what ever is plaqing my lawn. I will use heritage now if it will kill the fungus in the future. Or should i salvage what i got, reseed in fall and spray as soon as I see signs of fungus next year? Thanks.

kirk1701
07-10-2010, 11:03 PM
Kirk how is the lawn looking now? Man the dry weather and heat has mine looking awful. Glad the heritage worked for you. Do you think it is to late in the summer to put down on my lawn? Looks like it is past help. I need to get rid of what ever is plaqing my lawn. I will use heritage now if it will kill the fungus in the future. Or should i salvage what i got, reseed in fall and spray as soon as I see signs of fungus next year? Thanks.

Can't say without pic's

How long have you had the issue this year?

You won't kill the fungus, from what I understand you have to rotate the fungicides and keep applying it especially when the weather conditions are likely to activate the fungus.


I've learned a lot this year about fungus, next season will be a little less concerned about weed control a little more attention toward fungus prevention now that I have the basics. :drinkup:

ricsin1
07-11-2010, 11:56 AM
have you guys heard of using CORN MEAL and MILK as a preventative for BROWN PATCH... i hear a lot of you guys say thing about some other HIGH PRICED products but wanted to know if you've heard anything about using milk or cornmeal.... i also saw in another post someone mentioned BAKING SODA?

i wonder if these "home" remedies actually work.. they seem much cheaper than the Banner and Heritage and other PROFESSIONAL producuts out there...

this is the link i saw on UTUBE about milk and corn meal.:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLtd4P1hYs8&feature=channel

what do you think?