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liledgy
06-08-2010, 10:33 AM
Just bought a 2000 stander. Seems to run decent have a few quirks. 1 top speed is 5.4 mph, plan on changing hydralic filter first, the adjustable nut on the rods near pump seems fine ( not out of round). Blades look fine not razor sharp but no gouges either ( they have 3 slashes on top gator blades?) . The mower also doesn't cut all the grass, it doesn't leave strips it it seems like it pushes grass down. I adjusted washers on front casters from 1 on top 2 bottom to 2 on top 1 on bottom, not much difference. Blades are below all 4 or 5 washers on spindle. I havn't checked rear tire position yet. Air pressure is right on front and rear. Blades are at 3" ( checked by discharge ). I may change blades next. I'm from N Illinois so grass is probably blue grass. Thank you for replys. Also , is oil drain plug below filter ( Allen head). How do yu keep from getting oil all over? To change hydralic filter do you need to drain tank first? Sorry for all the ?'s I don't have owners manual yet. Thanks again
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WrightCommercial
06-08-2010, 01:34 PM
liledgy,

Top speed seems slow, check which hole (fast/slow) the rod is in on the control lever, if I remeber on the old units the rear hole (towards the operator) is the fast hole. Also if this mower has the control hoops over top each pump then look at the attachment clamp on the left side of each pump, if it moves before the pump shaft the clamp is egged out, you can try to tighten it but they may need to be replaced. The blades sound like a Gator style which may not be producing enough lift possibly causing the cut issue. Before you changed the casters what was the pitch of the cutter deck, this will also depend at what pressure the rear tires are at, you said okay so I will assume 20psi if going by the manual (which you can download from the "support" area on our website). With the stock air pressure and the mower in its stock set you should have a 1/4" pitch (lower in front). If the mower checks out the blades could be the problem, not sure what mulching blade is installed or what level of lift but usually you will want the next level of lift over the stock blade (med lift) when running mulching blades. For the filter change it is easier to lightly clamp the low pressure lines that come off the filter housing, this way the tank won't empty when you remove the filter.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg. Service Dept.

liledgy
06-08-2010, 02:01 PM
liledgy,

Top speed seems slow, check which hole (fast/slow) the rod is in on the control lever, if I remeber on the old units the rear hole (towards the operator) is the fast hole. Also if this mower has the control hoops over top each pump then look at the attachment clamp on the left side of each pump, if it moves before the pump shaft the clamp is egged out, you can try to tighten it but they may need to be replaced. The blades sound like a Gator style which may not be producing enough lift possibly causing the cut issue. Before you changed the casters what was the pitch of the cutter deck, this will also depend at what pressure the rear tires are at, you said okay so I will assume 20psi if going by the manual (which you can download from the "support" area on our website). With the stock air pressure and the mower in its stock set you should have a 1/4" pitch (lower in front). If the mower checks out the blades could be the problem, not sure what mulching blade is installed or what level of lift but usually you will want the next level of lift over the stock blade (med lift) when running mulching blades. For the filter change it is easier to lightly clamp the low pressure lines that come off the filter housing, this way the tank won't empty when you remove the filter.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg. Service Dept.
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olde_blue
06-08-2010, 04:45 PM
Is your Stander a large-frame (48"+) or small (36" or 42")?

Prior to SN 11935, large Standers only were designed to go 6.1 mph, so your speed might not be far off. Sometime about 2000, the speed was increased to 6.9 mph using a larger hydro drive pulley. They used to make a "speed up" kit (see Wright Bulletin #007 (https://purchase.wrightmfg.com/user_images/1/Service_Bulletins/Bull_7_.pdf) you could purchase to upgrade the speed. Measure your pulley diameter.

The small-frame Standers were probably significantly slower, although I don't possess a specification.

My 36" Stander does not cut bluegrass well with gator-type blades. Standard lift blades leave a good cut.

For large-frame Standers, you can buy a bolt-on baffle which improves the cut in many situations. My 52" Stander with a baffle cuts well with Gators, even in floppy grass.

If your Stander is a 48", people used to complain about the low blade-tip speed compromising the cut (the 48, 52, and 61" Standers used the same deck pulleys up until this year). Wright later (2004, 5, or 6???) used a larger PTO clutch (and different belt) to increase the blade tip speed on the 48".

liledgy
06-08-2010, 05:28 PM
Is your Stander a large-frame (48"+) or small (36" or 42")?

Prior to SN 11935, large Standers only were designed to go 6.1 mph, so your speed might not be far off. Sometime about 2000, the speed was increased to 6.9 mph using a larger hydro drive pulley. They used to make a "speed up" kit (see Wright Bulletin #007 (https://purchase.wrightmfg.com/user_images/1/Service_Bulletins/Bull_7_.pdf) you could purchase to upgrade the speed. Measure your pulley diameter.

The small-frame Standers were probably significantly slower, although I don't possess a specification.

My 36" Stander does not cut bluegrass well with gator-type blades. Standard lift blades leave a good cut.

For large-frame Standers, you can buy a bolt-on baffle which improves the cut in many situations. My 52" Stander with a baffle cuts well with Gators, even in floppy grass.

If your Stander is a 48", people used to complain about the low blade-tip speed compromising the cut (the 48, 52, and 61" Standers used the same deck pulleys up until this year). Wright later (2004, 5, or 6???) used a larger PTO clutch (and different belt) to increase the blade tip speed on the 48".
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liledgy
06-08-2010, 05:33 PM
Thank you for the info, it's a 48" so I guess it's a large frame. I'll have to decide to get the baffle or a different blade or maybe both. I think my serial# is 13456 so 6.9mph is probably the right speed. From front to back wright says a 1/4 higher but where do you take your measurements from?
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liledgy
06-08-2010, 09:16 PM
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liledgy
06-08-2010, 09:21 PM
My clamps are egged out on the shaft of the hydralic pumps. I measured the front of the deck and the back ( in front of rear wheel). Less than 3/8 higher in back than the front. So that should be good. I'll try some different blades. Thank you so much for the wealth of knowledge your willing to share with this rookie!!!!!! Time to make a parts list.
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WrightCommercial
06-09-2010, 09:32 AM
liledgy,

Try tightening the rear Allen head bolt for the clamps, if the slot at the rear of the clamp is still open it can be tightened if not the clamps should be replaced. The current version is a cast piece and it has the same part number (96410001) as the original clamp.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg. Service Dept.

liledgy
06-09-2010, 11:05 AM
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liledgy
06-09-2010, 11:09 AM
Already tried tightening them have to order some parts. One question, on your website I'm having a hard time searching ( finding) the proper "era" stander information for my model. It only has stander, when I click on that it takes you to the current models. And I don't see a search box.
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WrightCommercial
06-09-2010, 12:31 PM
liledgy,

Look to the right on the homepage, next to "buy a mower" there is the "support" tab, this area has all the IPL's and Owner Manuals for all our mowers just find the one that your serial falls under and you can print the document.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg. Service Dept.

grassman177
06-13-2010, 11:20 AM
we have had to replace those clamps on the hydros b4, no biggie and a little play on the old ones makes a HUGE difference, wiat till you get the new ones, itwill be more responsive. the front baffle, if is not there, we have one we took off and wont use, almost new. if intersted pm me and we can talk more. also, yes, the gator blades do not cut as clean so get standard blades or high lift and the cut will improve. also, the older model 48 with the lower tip speed did not cut as well, so make sure of that and you can get a speed up kit as mentioned b4

liledgy
06-13-2010, 12:50 PM
we have had to replace those clamps on the hydros b4, no biggie and a little hplay on the old ones makes a HUGE difference, wiat till you get the new ones, itwill be more responsive. the front baffle, if is not there, we have one we took off and wont use, almost new. if intersted pm me and we can talk more. also, yes, the gator blades do not cut as clean so get standard blades or high lift and the cut will improve. also, the older model 48 with the lower tip speed did not cut as well, so make sure of that and you can get a speed up kit as mentioned b4
Thank you for the reply. My high lift gators came in but is still didn't seem to pull up grass. Put all 3 washers on top of front casters and it cut alot better. Deck seems awful close to ground though, I think I have some more adjusting to do. All 4 washers are above blades and The rear tires are in the middle holes and I think front castor mounts are to. The hydro clamps are on back order as is the trigger that pushes down switch for the operator platform cutout from j Thomas. I'll have to look into that speedup kit
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liledgy
06-13-2010, 01:19 PM
Also is the oil plug below the filter? What size Allen wrench? I know it's bigger than 3/8. Do they make a hose adapter that I could leave like my boat to prevent a huge mess. Thanks again
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WrightCommercial
06-15-2010, 11:44 AM
liledgy,

The oil drain for the engine is on the same side as the filter but is down at the bottom of the block and should already have a valve attached to it. The drain is a simple flip lever on the older units and the newer units use a wrench to open. When the units are retailed new they have a drain hose as part of the mower packet, any dealer can get a replacement if the original is not with the mower. I believe the plug you are refering to is for a sensor that is not part of the engine specification.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg. Service Dept.

liledgy
06-15-2010, 12:06 PM
My engine was replaced the sticker says kaw 13*97/68sng2*2002/88*0238*01
engine fam kaxs 675 n4cd Man 0608
I removed the plug it was a grey plastic one, no valve . I'll check with the dealer about getting a hose. Thanks again for the info
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WrightCommercial
06-15-2010, 12:57 PM
liledgy,

It sounds like when the engine was replaced they did not swap the oil drain to the new engine. You will also need the drain set up and the engine will need to be unbolted so it can be slightly lifted to screw in the drain hardware. If you don't have the Illustrated Parts List for the mower you can print one off our website. Go to www.wrightmfg.com and click on the "Support" tab on the upper right side of the page. When you click the IPL tab or Owners Manual tab you will see all our documents based on model and serial range.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg. Service Dept.