View Full Version : Lesco 48" Belt Driven Walk-Behind Mower Problems

06-15-2010, 08:15 PM
My Lesco 48" Belt Driven Walk-Behind Mower won't pull itself up a slight slope or uneven surface even on the highest speed. I have to push it to get it to roll then the mower starts pulling. What could cause it to do this?


06-15-2010, 09:19 PM
drive belts or the v - pully the belt rides in are worn

06-16-2010, 10:00 AM
When you try to go up a hill, does the pulleys that drive the tires also stop spinning? Does it do it in the higher gears vs lower gears?
If the pulleys that drive the tires stop spinning as well, then the belt under the engine deck is bad, or the idler pulley for that belt is bad.

06-16-2010, 06:34 PM
The pulley that is connected to the wheel spins but the belt doesn't spin making the other pulleys to not spin. It does it sometimes on flat yards when I Just get done making a turn. I am trying to use a Sulky but it seems like the mower doesn't have enough power to pull me after a turn or going up a hill

06-16-2010, 07:43 PM
Yea, sounds like you need new belts for the wheels. Having a sulky on a belt drive wears the belts out a little faster.

06-16-2010, 10:29 PM
Adjust your idler pulley, my lesco 48 needs adjusting one or twice a season. get the belt as tight as you can and you'll be set

06-19-2010, 05:00 PM
Where is the idler pulley located? Thanks everyone for all the help.

06-19-2010, 07:12 PM
under tranny. bolt has channel it slides back and forth in. small and probably plastic.

06-19-2010, 08:09 PM

Before you adjust the idler pulley CHECK the transmission belt's tension
because if it's tight there's no reason to adjust it.
Once you loosen that dang bolt it can be a real PITA to get it back just right,
ONLY ever adjust that thing if the belt underneath driving the transmission is loose.

Invest $120 or so in two new wheel belts, put them on.
If that doesn't fix it report back.

06-21-2010, 08:16 AM
Tightening the transmission belt is easy. If you want some detailed instructions, just ask.

06-22-2010, 03:38 PM
I will try the belts but a license mechanic told me it might be the gear box, but another one said that when the gear box goes out the mower won't move at all. Has anyone heard that? What would you think I should believe?

Thanks Everyone.

06-22-2010, 03:45 PM
Try the belts first. The tranny is spinning so doesnt seem to be the problem. If new belts and proper tensioning doesnt fix it, then look at the transmission. Always cheaper solution first though, belts are maybe 120 total, trans you're looking at at least 400.

06-22-2010, 04:27 PM
Usually when a trans goes bad, it will start clicking, and the mower will hesitate with the clicking. I really think the trans belt is loose on your mower. That's what happens about 75% of the time. The idler pulley for the trans belt also goes bad. The newer version from JD is metal vs the plastic one Lesco supplied.

To check the belt, look under the unit, between the wheels, and you will see a big pulley and the belt around it. Grab the long side (opposite side where the idler pulley is) and pull on it. IF it gives more than a inch, in either tug direction, then the idler needs to be tightened.

06-22-2010, 06:52 PM
the belt under the tranny could cause that. i had the same problem and replaced that belt and my problem was fixed

06-22-2010, 11:02 PM
What is really funny, to fix the trans, (tear it down and rebuild) it is about $25.00 bucks worth of parts (if the tranny is clicking). I usually had one fixed in about a hour. There are 4 shifter keys in the tranny, they wear out.

lawns Etc
06-23-2010, 12:41 AM
Tighten the belts its no big deal as already said the tranny belt is under the machine at bottom ot gearbox. I put lots of hrs on the belt drives and I replace all belts yearly may cost 100 at most and save the old ones for backup. The tranny is probally fine but 500 is crazy for one they go for under 250 complete and take less than an hour to change out. I have a spare rebuilt one that cost about 30 to rebuild just in case one goes out.
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Gene's Clean cut
05-07-2012, 12:13 PM
I have the same mower with same problem and tried all the same suggestions already made. I found out that the grease fitting near the drive belt had let a little bit of grease get on the belt I did not see. After cleaning the mower with purple power and with no adjustment made, it just about pulled my arms off it had so much power.

05-07-2012, 12:18 PM
First things first, tighten the transmission drive belt and while you're doing that get the part number and get another one on order because they like to wear out and when it does you will want to have a spare on hand, mostly because dealers don't always have what we need when we need it.

And if that doesn't fix it one or both of your outer belts might need replacing, but do the trans belt first because the outer ones are not cheap.
You may, however, want to see about ordering up one of the outer belts as well, once again so that you have it when you need it, to my understanding they are interchangeable so you only need one to fit either side.

On a closing note I believe the transmission drive belt runs around $25 while the outer ones are closer to $80, each.
And you always want one each transmission drive belt and one outer belt in stock (as in, in your house or in your truck)
I like keeping those belts in the truck because I hate pushing those dang things and this way I don't even have to run home.

05-07-2012, 12:59 PM
As others have said. It's probably the engine to transmission belt. I had the same problem with my Snapper Pro belt drive last year. I knew it couldn't have been the drive belts because they were replaced the year prior about mid-way through the season.

I pulled the transmission belt off and took it to Napa and they were able to find an exact match for significantly less than the mower shop down the road (which had to special order it). The mower shop actually told me to check Napa since I needed one ASAP.

Also, I've noticed mine will slip from time to time if it gets wet.