Question about brush hogging

[procut]

I recently bought a 60" County Line (TSC) brand brush hog. While it is a lot smoother than the old POS I was using, it's not cutting as well as I had hoped. It seems to leave an un-cut strip along the left side. My old hog did the same thing, but I just figured it was becsue is was old and the blades were junk. I realize brush hogging is not going to produce a beautiful finish cut, but when you finish and the field still has 25% of the grass sticking up it's like WTF?!

The the tractor spins it around no problem, even in thick grass / weeds the tach stays at 540 RPM on the PTO the entire time. I have tried to adjust my ground speed and that doesn't seem to make much difference.

Is this just what I get for buying a cheap $700 brush hog? Would a higher quality Woods, Land Pride, Bush Hog brand, Frontier, ect. cut better? Shortly after I bought my tractor I remember I rented a 72" Frontier from the dealer and it seemed to not leave as much if any grass sticking up like this TSC brand hog, I really can't remember it was a long time ago.

Here are a couple crappy pictures if you can make them out. This was just after I finished cutting 9 acres.

Any suggestions would be great!

[dbear]

Can't quite make it out from the photos, but is the tall grass where your tire tracks are?

[Jason Rose]

I'm not a bushhogging guy, but a few things to consider... Are the blades pretty sharp? I don't know if it's always common to use "sharp" blades on bushhogs because so many people use them for chopping trees, thickets, etc, a sharp edge would be trashed faster. Do the blades have any "lift sail" on them? I know there are flat and lift type blades for most rotary cutters like that. Flat blades are better for the thickets and trees, but for a better quality cut in grass/weeds the lift on the blades help suck up "lift and cut" what the tractor has knocked down.

I know I wouldn't want to mow 9 acres with a 5 foot bushhog, lol. Especially if you have to go over it twice.

[darryl gesner]

Looks like you're cutting pretty darn tall. I don't think you'll ever get a good cut like that. Keep in mind that with a trailing mower, you're running over the grass with both sets of tires before the blades get to it too. Do you have a shear pin or slip clutch on the drive train...if it's a slip clutch, make sure it's tight enough. Also, adjust it so that the front of the deck is a little lower than the back and adjust your top link and tail wheel so that the tail wheel is actually rolling and the deck isn't just suspended up in the air.

[procut]

Thanks for the help. The blades are actually pretty sharp. Keep in mind the mower was barnd new on Friday.

Maybe my problem is that I'm cutting too high. I had it set so the blades were a ways off the ground and the trailing wheel was just sparatically hitting the ground over bumps, ect. It has no slip clutch, just a shear pin, (It was only 700 dollar mower)

I have a couple other brush hog jobs this weeks so I'll play around with it a little more.

[darryl gesner]

I usually adjust my deck so that my boot will just fit under it, a little higher if the terrain is rough. It always talkes me a little while to get mine adjusted after having other implements on. I usually leave the tail wheel alone but I have to adjust the top link. You want it so that you can pick the mower up for tranport and have the tail wheel off the ground, but have the tail wheel down when you're actually mowing. Also, on my 3 point system, I can set it so that it floats a bit or is rigid, depending on the implement. There this little key thing I flip over in the slot (mine is a JD 855 tractor). I float it for mowing.

[Fieldman12]

Bush Hogs are known for doing this in tall grass. One way that helps reduce the issue is mow one direction and then come back on the next pass the other direction and repeat this pattern all across the field. Don't forget to overlap a little to get the grass that was smashed down the round before. Like others said also having the bush hog properly adjusted helps out also.

[zabmasonry]

Just wondering, If you are 14 years old, how did you start full time in 2000, that you were six years old. Not to mention, how are you licensed and insured as a minor

Also you can buy a slip clutch at tractor supply. I also usually don't even attach my top link when I'm just mowing grass.

[darryl gesner]

I like the slip clutch (and the stump jumper pan) on mine. I can hit some pretty big rocks and stumps without doing damage or having to stop and change the pin. I like the top link so I can pick the whole thing up for backing into brush but that's something that's more than a little dangerous and not really recommended. Also for transport so the tail wheel isn't bumping along.

[procut]

Just wondering, If you are 14 years old, how did you start full time in 2000, that you were six years old. Not to mention, how are you licensed and insured as a minor

Also you can buy a slip clutch at tractor supply. I also usually don't even attach my top link when I'm just mowing grass.

Gahhhhh, I'm just going to have to change my sig. No one can understand that it's a joke. It moking all the kids that come on here and start mouthing off to the expirienced guys, talking about how much work and equiptment they have, ect.

How do you not attach the top link, that doesn't even make sence? Doesn't the mower just drag a long digging into thew ground?

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, like I said, I will be doing some more brush hogging later this week, I try some of the stuff you guys have said and report back, thanks again.

[darryl gesner]

It would still have 3 points of support, the tail wheel and the two points on the side...whatever you call them

[pconley]

Before you start out find a flat spot, set the mower down on the tail wheel and position mower deck parallel to ground. Adjust center arm so it can float some. Then you just keep an eye for bigger rocks/stumps and lift over them. Also the rotation of mower throws grass to one side and I think that is the side usually left un-cut. Buy the way, don't change you sig. line, thats the funniest thing I've read on this site.

[zabmasonry]

ahhh I get it. after I wrote that I was thinking to myself, and figured that perhaps you started your business 14 years ago and went to full time on that in 2000. Major durrrr moment there.

I think that what pretty much everybody else has said is true. Also your pictures look like the field might be a bit wet, and brush hogs are a bit of a (excuse the pun intended) hog when you are cutting grass wet. the easiest thing, just slow down. BTW: I think that the person who was suggesting mowing in the other direction was more intending that you mow zero turn style and just recut the 8/10" that were left un - cut.

I also tend to move the mower all the way to one side of the tractor, that way you can keep the one side of the wheels in already cut grass and reduce your your knock down.

[procut]

Alright, I did two more smaller jobs this week, the first was about 1.5 acres and was mowed last November; the other was maybe 3 or 4 acres and had last been mowed a couple years ago.

I think a lot of my problem before was I was just cutting too high. I set it now where the front of the cutter is maybe 3" off the ground and I adjusted the trailing wheel so that it rolls along the whole time, not just striking the ground over bumps, ect. It seemed to cut a lot better, sometimes there is still some grass left un-cut along one side, but not nearly as bad as before.

I guess my biggest question with starting this thread was do all rotary cutters do this or will there be a differance in cutting ability/performance between a cheap hog like mine vs. a more expensive/quality brand. I looked at a few of the more expensive ones, and the differance I noticed was that they were built heavier, (ie. gear box, heavier gauge steel, slip clutch, ect) However, the blades and under side of the deck looked about identical. Which is why I figured since this isn't going to be something I use everyday, the cheaper brand would be sufficient. Just wondering what everyones' opinions are on the cheaper TSC brand hogs, vs. Wood, Bush Hog, Landpride.

[darryl gesner]

Good to hear you're getting a bit better cut out of it. I think you've got it right...the more expensive ones are just built a little better. If you're looking for cut quality, a rotary cutter isn't gonna give it no matter what. I don't thing you made a mistake getting the unit you did, but I guess only time will tell. If you're just cutting grass and weeds and light brush, you should be fine. If you going to be doing clearing and taking down 2 inch diameter saplings, then I think you're asking for trouble with a budget machine.

I got the JD 513 which is a mid duty unit and it didn't take long for it to get bent up some. I haven't broken any welds yet but I make sure I have a big hammer handy, lol. Had I gone with a heavy duty unit I would have had to go with a 4 footer due to weight and handling. In fact a 5 footer isn't recommended at all for my machine but I run it with the loader on which gives me good ballast and also is good for detecting anything ahead of me...I keep it curled and about 4 to 6 inches off the ground.

[MowJoeLandscaping]

I have Landpride and if the grass is tall, then it leaves a little. I just cut it twice.

[zabmasonry]

I have Landpride and if the grass is tall, then it leaves a little. I just cut it twice.

cause that's affordable

[hawgcaller]

Where to start about this thread???
In all my years, I have never had a customer to complain about how a bush-hog job looked.They went from an overgrown waist high plus, jungle type of thing, to a more manageable piece of property.. So what if there are stragglers, just so there are not entire sections still standing, afterall you are bush-hogging, not finish cutting.We are getting an overgrown mess down to a level so that it can be better seen what is there when it comes time to finish whatever the customer has planned for the property.
Now to the equipment being used.
If you want to ruin any piece of equipment, use it for the task that it was not built heavy enough for. If we buy a cheaper/less heavy duty piece of equipment we should limit our selves to tasks equal to the equipments capabilities and should not complain when stuff breaks, or requires a BFH to fix. Don't blame "your" cheap azz equipment. You bought it, and used it on a task too heavy for it. Just kick yourself, learn from it, find smaller jobs, make money and upgrade.

As to the set up of your equipment: Proper set up is critical to the proper use
and care for that equipment, and the overall final result of the project. Control of said equipment is paramount. If you encounter a stump, cinder block, etc that you had not seen, you must have the ability to raise the bushog to clear the obstacle. If all hitch connection points are not connected
you are a time bomb waiting for disaster.
Final, proper equipment selection for the job, and proper set up are tools to being profitable or losing your shorts by ignoring those issues.

[procut]

^ Who the hell made you the boss?

[knox gsl]

I'v mowed many acres with a crappy bush hog before, like others have said if all you plan on doing is cutting thick grass then you'll be fine. If you know the property then you sould be ok to remove the top link and let it float over the ground better. I usually run about 4 inches from the bottom of the blade and make sure the caster whell in the back is adjusted right. The best thing you could do now is get use to it and buy a slipper clutch, it bets shear pins and is better for the mower.

[StanWilhite]

In my experience using a proper length chain as your top link on a brush hog is the best way to go. This allows you to be able to pick the bh up when needed, and also allows flex between the tractor and bh when going through slight ditches or uneven ground. Stan in N AL

[minimax]

I'm a mowing contractor and do a lot of brush hogging.the cut finsh has to do more with how you mow then the mower.When you go foward the tractor lays the grass down faced foward,and the rotary cutter turns couterclockwise so it only cuts the layed down grass on the left side of the tractor because it is picking up grass well,on the right side the blades are going the same way the tires layed the grass down.I will cut a fleid in a clockwise pattern so on each next pass you will pick up and cut the layed down grass,or I turn round each pass at the headland and go the other way with overlap.Diff. rotary cutters may turns diff ways.I cut with a Deere MX5 but have ran rotarys from $400 to $4,000.

minimax

[krackerjack9]

I keep my blades sharp and alot has to due with your traveling speed grass that tall either 4th low or 1st high (Grass in the 2ft-3ft) lower than that I use 2nd high and 2200rpm. I dont know about removing top link???
You want your mower set at a angle front side pitched down, back side up that is adjusted from your tail wheel.
Those country line mowers I wouldnt use them for anything other than GRASS ONLY. The decks have not ribs for support. Sure you might get away with it a few times but thier just not set up or made for anything above grass or light light brush maybe 1/2 diameter.
Figure 5hp for every foot of brush mower.