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cutntrim
03-23-2000, 05:09 PM
We've got 3 3/4 ton 4x4's ('85, and two '89's) that all plow. The two '89's also salt. All three were bought used so we don't know how well they were maintained prior to us owning them (ie. probably not too well). We had the '85 repainted last summer and it's definately in the best shape of the three body-wise. <p>Do you guys think it would be worth it to rust spray the trucks at the end of each winter or not? We're getting rust-through at the bottom of the door panels on the '89's. It's also showing up on the lower edge of the bed as well. We're looking to hang on to these trucks for as long as we can but don't want to be driving rust-buckets in the next couple of years...not good for the company image.<p>----------<br>Dave in S.Ontario<br>www.cutntrim.com

JB
03-26-2000, 12:37 PM
Dave,<br>Having owned a restoration shop for many years and specializing in the GMC / CHEVY K series trucks I know first hand about the rust situation. On the 85 which is prone to rust in the lower cab corners and rockers I would suggest installing an electronic rust control system. These are available at JC Whitney for under a hundred bucks. I have one on my 87 V-10 which I restored almost three years ago and to be truthful I do not even get rust on the rotors. It's the same technolagy as used on off shore oil rigs, tankers and bridges. As far as the rust is concerned along the bottom door edges there is not much you can do. Rust proofing spray (not undercoating) will not stop this kind of rust at this point. That needs to be done when new or when replacing panels. Try the electronic system. Hope this helps. JB

yortengel
03-26-2000, 02:49 PM
JB, What does this system do. how does it work, how much does it cost, I have replaced 1/2 the panels on my 84 K20. the other half are going to need changing soon.

JB
03-26-2000, 11:14 PM
The system works buy replacing the ions in the metal exposed. Almost like a battery, when moisture and air contact bare metal it causes a reaction that starts to corrode the metal. The system sends a current through the truck every two seconds(very minor) so instead of the corrosion eating away the metal it is in a sense eating the electrical ions that are sent throughout the truck. The current drain on the battery is equivilent to a dash clock and as long as you drive fifty or so miles a week the battery will stay charged. It's very easy to install. It reall works. JB