View Full Version : 29hp Kaw Scag won't charge
06-21-2010, 08:44 PM
I was mowing today and it just quit? Refilled with gas turned the key and nothing. So I jumped it but when I turn on the pto amp meter goes to -10 and doesn't run long and quits. Anybody else have this problem any ideas? I changed the fuses.? thanks for the help
06-21-2010, 10:50 PM
Same symptoms with a 25 HP Kohler setup.
Turned out to be a bad coil in the clutch, causing it to draw so many amps there wasn't enough left to charge the battery.
06-21-2010, 11:22 PM
06-21-2010, 11:42 PM
Or you don't have battery voltage at the single wire at the voltage regulator, or regulator lost ground. Only grounds through mounting screw, if I remember correctly.
06-22-2010, 01:44 AM
If you really want to troubleshoot electrical problems I would highly suggest going out
and buying a volt/ohm meter, this simple device can be had for under $10 if you look
around a bit and it comes in awful handy.
So then you want to trace the wires with a volt meter from the battery back to the
stator on the engine, matter of fact you might can just do a close visual inspection
because it could be as simple a matter as a broken or loose wire.
Now if the wires appear good then you'll want to connect the volt meter's leads directly to
the leads coming out of the engine when it's running, might be a bit of a trick but at least
this way you'll know if there's any juice generating.
As a rule if the engine is generating you should get at least a 13 volt reading,
doing this will help you isolate the problem to either the engine's generation
or whether it's the wiring side of things.
If the engine side checks out, next connect the leads to the battery as it runs,
and see if it's giving you 13 volts there as well, it could be a dead battery as well.
Obviously if there's nothing at the battery then it's in the wiring so
somewhere in all of that should be the solution.
06-22-2010, 09:53 AM
The OP's comments seem to say that his charging system works OK until the PTO switch is operated and then the built-in meter shows a heavy discharge.
A "quick and dirty" check would be to separate the electrical connector where it attaches to the clutch. If the discharge goes away, he's getting very close to the problem.
It is hard, however, to avoid having to get at least a cheap hand held meter for sorting out electrical gremlins which are sure to pop up on our equipment. Even spending a couple of bucks at Harbor Freight is better than nothing.
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