View Full Version : Kawasaki FH601V - Solenoid on the Starter

09-21-2010, 10:28 PM
My tractor won't start. A little background: earlier this summer, the electric clutch would occasionally cut out while I was mowing but them start working again. A few weeks ago, the tractor would not start. When I turned the key, I could hear a click and I would loose all voltage. I tapped the solenoid and it started. Last time I mowed, 9/18, it started fine and the clutch did not cut out at all. When I was done mowing, I tried to start the tractor and it would not do anything! Then I found out the wire from the ignition to the solenoid was off. I tightened the spade connector and thought maybe that was the whole problem.

Tonight, I tried to start it again. The starter clicked in a little and then nothing. I kept trying the starter but nothing. So, I started checking voltages. I have about 11.5 volts on the battery terminals and on the head of the cable where it clamps to the battery terminal. If the key is off, I also have about 11.5 volts on the red battery cable where it connects to the solenoid. BUT, if I turn the key on, the voltage on the battery cable at the solenoid drops to around 8.5 volts, but the voltage at the battery end of the cable stays at 11.5. Does this mean the battery cable is bad? Is my solenoid or starter bad? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

09-21-2010, 10:37 PM
A charged battery should be at least 12.5 VDC. I you've got a voltage drop of 3 volts from the battery to the solenoid, you may want to check for corrosion, either at the battery or in the cable connectors.

09-22-2010, 07:57 AM
Thanks for your thoughts. Yes, I thought also it should be higher than 11.5 volts. It was closer to 12 volts when I first started checking. But, as I had the key on, checking voltages, it seemed like it "drained" the battery a little.

I don't think it's corrosion or loose connnection. Because, the voltage is 11.5 when I test on the cable at the battery but 8.5 when I touch the same cable at the solenoid...

09-22-2010, 09:40 PM
I think I figured it out! I tested the voltage drop from the battery to the solenoid. With one side of my voltage tester at the battery and the other at the solenoid I had as much as around 4 to 5 volts!

I then connected one side of my jumper cables to the battery and the other to the solenoid, effectively bypassing the positive battery cable. The engine cranked beautifully!!!! So, I will be buying new battery cable(s) and I think that will have me going.

Thanks dutch1, it was corrosion... INSIDE the cable!

09-22-2010, 11:16 PM
Good, you found the problem. Here is a good opportunity to plug a quality battery corrosion protector. Yeah, there are a lot of battery protectants out there but you'll not find any as good as Whip. Most protectants will do the job on post/connections but Whip will creep back up into exposed cable ends preventing corrosion inside the cable. It's a midwest product so don't know how widely it's distributed but it is available on the net.