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View Full Version : What is the best way to get a nice lawn?


statman
08-14-2002, 02:10 PM
I am a commercial mower (my motto is "I don't know, I just mow"). I wanted my own yard to look good, so I started experimenting with different fertilizers. About a month ago I put down 40 lbs of 12-12-12 and about 20 lbs of urea (46-0-0) and watered the living daylights out of it. (I have 15,000 sq ft of grass.)

Now I have the nicest lawn in Millbury, but I have to mow it every other day.

A guy asked me what I use on it, and when I told him, he said I was going to get shallow root growth and was asking for trouble.

I'm not looking to horn in on someone else's turf (haha)... I've got enough to keep me busy with just mowing. Am I hurting my yard applying this mixture?

LAWNGODFATHER
08-14-2002, 05:07 PM
NO

But for future apps look into slow release ferts with micro nutrients.

KirbysLawn
08-14-2002, 05:24 PM
Am I hurting my yard applying this mixture?

I'll disagree and say yes.

You are promoting shallow root growth since all plant energy is now going toward top growth. Shallow roots mean sure trouble during any drought, now you have the ability to water, stop the water and see what happens. Also, applying high amounts of N during the summer also makes your lawn wide open for diseases.

Get on a stable program, check Lecso or even Home Cheapo's Scotts program.

LAWNGODFATHER
08-14-2002, 05:30 PM
Am I hurting my yard applying this mixture?

Since it has been applied there isn't much you can do about it now, so to plan for the future look at slow release programs.

tremor
08-14-2002, 07:36 PM
That would work out to about 4 lbs/1000 of total fert. You created what amounts 23-5-5. About the kind of analysis you'd find at a K-Mart or other lower grade house brand fert.

For what would amount to .92 lbsN/1000 & about .2 lbs/K & the equivalent of .1lbs/P (after the exchange).

If the 12-12-12 was also all chem (soluble), then the agronomic benefit was pretty negligable.

I agree with both Ray & LGF. From here, I'd get a soil test & start using a slow release source of N at the ration indicated in the test results.

Steve

Kent Lawns
08-14-2002, 08:38 PM
Covering pellets with plastic or sulpher doesn't benefit the plant as much as fertilizer manufacturers would have us all believe.

Fert timing, amount and ratio (soil test) are more important.

I happen to be a fan of "spoon-feeding" philosophy.

get rich
08-14-2002, 10:02 PM
if i'm not mistaking sulfur or poly coating is more benificial to the turf than non-coated because it allows the pellets to slowly release and continually slowly feed the lawn as opposed to a quick rush of N. or other nutrients. sounds like common sense that a slow feeding is better. mom always said slow down and eat your food,right?:D

1grnlwn
08-15-2002, 12:58 AM
Hire someone to aerate it spring an fall for a couple of years and fert, it will be nice.

Mark

tremor
08-15-2002, 05:51 AM
100% Soluble nutrients are fine for all involved if the applicator can apply them at agronomically correct quantities between every 2-4 weeks. I supply several one ProTurf stadium this way.

The other is sand based. They instead choose 100% Slow.
Slow release is more economical in the long run because it reduces leaching, run-off, volatilization, & labor.

For commercial applicators, the proper use of all soluble ferts, all the time, isn't possible.

Steve

MJStrain
08-17-2002, 01:07 AM
I use Scott's plan exclusively and have never regretted having the best looking lawn in the neighborhood....:)

parkmaster
08-18-2002, 09:14 PM
statman.

get a soil test. also if you mow as often as you say grasscycle don't bag clippings helps keep nutients for turf establishment.
i would aerate at least 4 times during the season.
you want to use no more 1lb/n per 1000sq.ft. you'll still have a nice lawn.

dforbes
08-19-2002, 11:50 PM
just had to say I love your motto. your customers should have no problems mistaking that