View Full Version : Help...Changing U joints on my 2000 f25sd 4x4
Could somebody run me through how to do so. I have done them on a jeep but I started getting into the truck last night and it seemed a lot different.
10-19-2010, 02:48 PM
I did them on my chevy ext cab awhile back.
These videos helped some, he has a souple on changing you joints.
Yeah I found that guy the other night searching for some help.
I had stripped everything down and when pulling drive shaft/axle out there seems to be some kind of seal or sleeve still holding the shaft/axle in.
Sorry to be un clear but not a mechanic.
10-19-2010, 10:34 PM
you doing u-joints or axle joints?
10-21-2010, 07:56 AM
can you post a pic, i dont know what seal there is on the driveshaft other than the output seal at the back of the trans.
See if this helps you out at all.
10-21-2010, 09:37 PM
its a 2 piece seal/bearing. you can pull real hard and it should come out or take a punch and drive it out. you will have to replace it, it is a dealer only part and i think it runs around 50-75 bucks. BTY those are called axle joints. you should take a real close look at your wheel bearings while you have them out. if there is any play or noise replace them now.
What's the difference in axle joints and U joints?
Where are the wheel bearings located?
I was pulling and pulling trying to get that seal/bearing out. It didn't want to budge. If I go at with a punch, would I go from the front just to loosen it up and then pull it out.
Sorry for dumb questions. This stuff is beyond me. I am trying to learn little by little to pick up a little extra.
10-22-2010, 01:32 PM
If you didn't see any bearings then you have unit bearings I can't remember what year Ford switched to unit bearings for wheel bearings. I assume there was 4 bolts and the whole hub assembly came off.
Another question did you check you ball joints while you have it apart it is the time to do them.
10-22-2010, 01:41 PM
DO NOT take a hammer and punch to the bearings!!! It is a unit hub assembly. If you look around the back of the spindle (facing the axle u-joint) you'll see some bolts. remove the bolts and the hub/bearing assembly comes off as a unit. This has to come off before you can pull the axles to do the u joints. Check the bearings if they're loose, rough or noisy, replace the whole assembly.
Like GR said, if they haven't been done, now's the time to do the ball joints, make sure you get the ones that have the grease nipples in them. With proper maintenance they will last the life of the truck.
Hope this helps...
10-22-2010, 09:04 PM
the hub that you unbolted is the bearings. the seal in the inside of the knuckle is what you need to drive out. put the hub in a vise by the flange were you took the 4 bolts out of and spin it. if you have ANY noise replace it, if it is tight replace it, it there is any play replace it.
Yes, there were 4 bolts on the inside and the hub came off. The picture shows right after I did that. Whats the best way to get the u joints/axle joints out from here without punching that seal/bearing around the outer edge of this picture. Thanks guys.
Well I pulled both axles out on the rainy day. Now I'm struggling to get the old u joints out. Any suggestions?
Also, do you need to replace the seals when changing u joints? I noticed there was a seal going back into dif, one between u joint and hub and the one around axle from picture above.
10-28-2010, 10:59 PM
yes replace all seals. soak all 4 caps in pb blaster and let sit over night. remove all 4 clips, i dont remember if the are internal or external. put across a vise so it rests on the jaws and hit it with a BFH right behind the cap. i hope you undestand what i am saying.
Yeah haha, do you want to hit square on the cap just trying to break it loose so you can pull them off?
I looked at the price of the seals when getting the u joints. They were unreal for a piece of rubber.
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.