View Full Version : What Mowers are Mfgr approved for Doubles???
KLMlawn
08-20-2002, 08:57 AM
Just curious as to how many manufacturers actually say you can use doubles on their machines without adversly affecting spindle wear and the warrantee. Obviously Walker already has a double bladed configuration for their mulching blade, but are their any others that approve and encourage the use of doubles?
Richard Martin
08-20-2002, 10:12 AM
Dixie Chopper. They even have a double blade adapter if you want to make sure the blades are in a perfect cross pattern.
I find it interesting that the subject of adverse spindle wear may develop if double blades are used every time that double blades are discussed. There may be increased belt wear and increased blade brake/electric clutch wear but just how does using double blades affect the spindles? Can someone explain this to me with out saying "it just does"?
KLMlawn
08-20-2002, 10:29 AM
I believe that, although the concept of using two well balanced blades should not theoretically cause any adverse wear, in fact it should create a more stable rotation, I have found through my own use and experiences, that it does seem to decrease spindle life. Also, if you notice, not too many manufacturers, in fact most do not condon or approve doubles and in fact, if a spindle does go and the issue of doubles is brought up, they won't warrantee the spindle.
KLMlawn
08-20-2002, 10:33 AM
What size shaft is the Dixie adapter for ... 5/8?
Also, is there any special configuration to the spindle or shaft for Dixies that would prevent that adapter from being used on other machines???
Richard Martin
08-20-2002, 10:57 AM
The Dixie double blade adapter has a 5/8" center hole and can be used on most mowers that do not use a cradle to hold the blade.
Oh yeah, the Hustler rep was discussing using double blades on Hustlers in another post so I guess they allow them also.
Scraper
08-20-2002, 12:26 PM
How about the affect on the engine? I just had to replace the cam in my 3 year old 17 HP Kawi on a 52" Scag hydro. I am wondering whether the increased load may have had an effect or if the original cam was never hardened.
The camshaft doesn't see any change in load regardless of how heavy the engine load is. All it does is sit there bumping the valves open at the right time. Valvetrain load changes some with RPM but that's all.
Scraper
08-20-2002, 02:58 PM
Originally posted by Alan
The camshaft doesn't see any change in load regardless of how heavy the engine load is. All it does is sit there bumping the valves open at the right time. Valvetrain load changes some with RPM but that's all.
So do you think my cam went from never having been hardened? I'm sure it wouldn't be the first time a cam missed being dipped.
Originally posted by Scraper
So do you think my cam went from never having been hardened? I'm sure it wouldn't be the first time a cam missed being dipped.
I don't know what you mean by "dipped" but it might be possible for a cam to not get heat treaed correctly. I do know that Chevy had soft cam troubles for a few years. Other than that I have no idea why a cam would wear out early. Did you see the old cam when it was removed? The one bad Chevy cam that I saw "in person" had some lobes that were almost round.
Gravely's new walkbehinds are suported by the company for double blades
65hoss
08-20-2002, 08:42 PM
Yep, the Gravely w/b's have a double blade kit. Actually the center hole and blade lenght will fit my eXmarks. The gator style mulching blade looks awesome. Its designed similar to the eXmark Mulching blade except it also has the gator teeth. Watch out leaves, destruction time this fall.
KLMlawn
08-20-2002, 08:49 PM
So would I be safe in assuming that either the Dixie adapter or the Gravely kit would be able to be used on either of my Standers as well as my Exmark then?
All have basically a generic style spindle ( similar to Scag) and the shaft is 5/8 's ....
Flex-Deck
08-20-2002, 09:05 PM
How can a mfg not warrent if you double blade?
1. The clutches are or at least sould be geared to the HP of the engine.
2. Doubles are like duels on a semi - some people don't even balance in that case
3. Doubles that are even somewhat balanced will stabalize rather than wear on the spindle shaft and bearings.
4. The only thing I noticed at Louisville demo areas are that people like to rev the engine to maximum, then kick in the blades (Wow does the clutch hurt) then they like to stop, shut the blades off with the mower running wide open and turn the key to off.
How many people park their car in the garage, rev the engine to full throtle,, then turn the key off
How many people start their car, rev it up to full rpm, then put it in reverse.
Folks, there are a lot of people out there that abuse the hell out of equipment, but it still runs in spite of the abuse.
Thanks, Brad
Jimbo
08-20-2002, 10:24 PM
Alan says "Other than that I have no idea why a cam would wear out early"
Here are some reasons.
- Lack of proper lubrication.
- Incorrect oil being used.
- Not chainging oil frequently.
- Valve train (springs) too heavy. Incorrectly adjusted (if adjustable type).
Jim
"4. The only thing I noticed at Louisville demo areas are that people like to rev the engine to maximum, then kick in the blades (Wow does the clutch hurt) then they like to stop, shut the blades off with the mower running wide open"
This is how the owner's manuals of the 3 different brands of mowers I've owned say to start & stop the blades, so maybe that's why? Those manuals also said to idle the engine before shutting them off, so I'd agree its not a good idea to shut them off at full throttle (the reason given for that is to allow the engine to cool down some before shutting it off).
I lost 2 spindles at under 500 hours since trying doubles on a Stander. My dealer was able to get them covered under warranty, but he wasn't happy seeing the doubles. Late last fall he showed me a new blade available that was a highlift Gator which we think may give the same performance as the regular under Gator that I was using. I'm going to try them this fall when leaf season hits & see how they compare to doubles.
gotto agree with flex-deck. i just dont see it as harder on the spindles. probably
more stress on the belts an clutch.
asfar as engaging ,wide open,i run 3800 rpm. i engage at that speed . i dont think so. dont even want to be standing close.
i may be wrong ,but aint taking the chance
KLMlawn
08-23-2002, 08:03 PM
awm, not for nothing, but I took this excerp direstly from the Wright Stander owners manual regarding testing and using the electric clutch engagement.
How to Test/Use the Blade Clutch/
Brake Switch
Before testing the blade clutch/brake operation
make sure the area is clear and there is nothing
vulnerable to thrown objects from under the
mower. No one should be near the mower deck
or in its line of discharge. The discharge chute
deflector should be in the down position. The
parking brake should now be applied. Move the
engine throttle to the highest RPM speed set-ting.
(When mowing, the engine speed should
always be at its highest setting. The engine
governor will regulate the engine according to
the different mowing conditions at that setting.)
Stand on the foot platform and turn on the blade
clutch switch. Run blades for a minute or so. Try
engaging and disengaging the blades a few
times about 10 seconds apart. If the blades do
not start and stop in a few seconds each time,
service the blade brake system. Under mowing
load, the clutch's longevity will be the greatest at
the highest RPM setting.
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