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ed2hess
11-15-2010, 08:13 PM
It has a 17KAWE engine. I know the battery is good and fuses are fine. I measure 17 volts dc at the engine converter and traced it to one side
of the fuse holder. It did measure -17volts relative to the battery gnd which seemed wrong. It would seem logical that from the fuse holder the line would connect to a battery lug and that would likely be at the starter solenoid right? Unfortunately I didn/t get continuity.

RickyDL77
11-16-2010, 04:17 PM
start by turning on the key and checking for 12 volts on the terminal of the voltage regulater with the single yellow wire.
if no voltage then check for
1 blown fuse
2 bad wire or connectors
3 yellow wire on the ignition switch

Can also disconect the 2-wire plug comming from the charging stator and use a multi meter set to AC voltage.. start the engine and put wire leads to both wires (doesnt matter about positive and negitive sides) should be pushing 26V AC to 30V AC at 3000rpms
I have had 3 Kawi motors show a negitive AC voltage and all three were fixed by replacing the Stator Coil, everything showed as within specs but somehow the voltage was comprimised.
Can also check the stator coil resistance with wires unhooked...
for electric start should read 0.01 - 0.1 Ohm
for recoil start with electric clutch should read 4.4 -15 Ohm ( if it's this version will be one wire, connect meter to wire and to engine block)

if all this reads to specs then could be the voltage regulator, lemme know what you get

ProMo
11-17-2010, 10:02 AM
I had a no charge problem, it was the yellow wire at the ignition switch somehow melted.

ed2hess
11-17-2010, 08:27 PM
start by turning on the key and checking for 12 volts on the terminal of the voltage regulater with the single yellow wire.
if no voltage then check for
1 blown fuse
2 bad wire or connectors
3 yellow wire on the ignition switch

Can also disconect the 2-wire plug comming from the charging stator and use a multi meter set to AC voltage.. start the engine and put wire leads to both wires (doesnt matter about positive and negitive sides) should be pushing 26V AC to 30V AC at 3000rpms
I have had 3 Kawi motors show a negitive AC voltage and all three were fixed by replacing the Stator Coil, everything showed as within specs but somehow the voltage was comprimised.
Can also check the stator coil resistance with wires unhooked...
for electric start should read 0.01 - 0.1 Ohm
for recoil start with electric clutch should read 4.4 -15 Ohm ( if it's this version will be one wire, connect meter to wire and to engine block)

if all this reads to specs then could be the voltage regulator, lemme know what you get

Sometimes you get lucky....this ended up being a bad ignition switch. The switch wasn't returning back to the neutral positon after starting the mower. When that happens the DC voltage out of that convertor....it would read -19 volts dc. Put in new swich and all is well. I guess there was some voltage being applied to the starter coil and that messed up the convertor. I am calling the device that takes the AC and makes it DC a convertor.

ProMo
11-18-2010, 08:59 AM
ac to dc is a rectifier . inverter is dc to ac

ed2hess
11-18-2010, 10:23 PM
ac to dc is a rectifier . inverter is dc to ac

And I noticed that kaw calls it a voltage regulator.

ProMo
11-19-2010, 09:56 PM
technically its a regulator/rectifier


here is what wright said when I had same issue.
ProMo,

First you will want to take a voltage reading at the engine (yellow wire) to determine that the engine is putting out at least 13.5 volts. If not then the issue is usually the stator, if you get 13.5 then the issue is on the mower side. This can be checked by following the yellow wire through all its connections in the harness when you get to a connection where the voltage drops there is a problem at that connection. You should make sure all the connections are clean and that all the grounds are secure. The usual problem other than a bad connection in the harness is where the yellow wire connects to the key switch. This connection is by itself and not part of the main plug on the switch. Over time it can work itself loose and cause this issue. Make sure it is clean and slightly re-squeeze the female terminal end at this point and reconnect to the key switch.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg. Service Dept.