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View Full Version : Question about using my Magna-Matic


DLAWNS
11-25-2010, 09:06 AM
Hey guys...first I wanted to say I love my Magna-Matic! It has saved me so much money and time already and has given me better sharpened and balanced blade.

I have a couple questions about my sharpening technique though. Sometimes when I'm sharpening my blades the end of the blade will still be kind of dull and a little thicker than the rest of the sharpened blade if that makes sense. Am I pulling the blade away from the grinding wheel too fast or is there another explanation for this? Other times when I am really having to work on a really beat up blade, after a while it tends to leave a rough finish on the sharpened edge...I'm not sure why. I'm sure these are problems with my technique as these problems only happen sometimes. Also how do I know where to start sharpening? I feel like the length of the sharp edges of my blades is getting closer to the center of the blade. And how do I know when a blade is just too used up to sharpen anymore? My last question is how do I know when it is time to change the grinding wheel?

I will be needing to order a new box of wheels and possibly a new work table as I think I might have put the wheel a little too close a few times and worn mine down quite a bit. Do I order this stuff on the website? Sorry for the ridiculous amount of questions. These are just all things I have been meaning to ask about all season just kept forgetting. Finally thought to finally post it today. Thanks in advance for the help!

grassman177
11-26-2010, 06:45 PM
hey dlawns, nice thread as we just picked up a magna matic at GIE and are selling our old wall rbg.

i am curious in whatever this turns up as i have not even unpacked it yet . we do sharpen alot of blades though and i look forward to much less mess and i breath way too much metal dust as it is now.

we got the rolling stand and such, all the goodies

DLAWNS
11-27-2010, 09:26 AM
hey dlawns, nice thread as we just picked up a magna matic at GIE and are selling our old wall rbg.

i am curious in whatever this turns up as i have not even unpacked it yet . we do sharpen alot of blades though and i look forward to much less mess and i breath way too much metal dust as it is now.

we got the rolling stand and such, all the goodies

Dude, you won't be sorry. It is an awesome machine. I'm jealous...I didn't know there was a stand that rolled, lol. I have the stand but mine is stationary. I just pull it a foot or two away from the wall when I use it.

djagusch
11-27-2010, 10:07 AM
hey dlawns, nice thread as we just picked up a magna matic at GIE and are selling our old wall rbg.

i am curious in whatever this turns up as i have not even unpacked it yet . we do sharpen alot of blades though and i look forward to much less mess and i breath way too much metal dust as it is now.

we got the rolling stand and such, all the goodies

Use a dust mask to reduce the metal dust in the lungs. Even with the shop vac going.
Posted via Mobile Device

DLAWNS
11-27-2010, 06:42 PM
Use a dust mask to reduce the metal dust in the lungs. Even with the shop vac going.
Posted via Mobile Device

I should really start doing this huh? lol

djagusch
11-27-2010, 06:58 PM
I should really start doing this huh? lol

I would think it would reduce issues later in life. I got a box of 50 by the sharpner.
Posted via Mobile Device

DLAWNS
11-28-2010, 09:23 AM
I would think it would reduce issues later in life. I got a box of 50 by the sharpner.
Posted via Mobile Device

Ya know, I'm usually so cautious about stuff but I never really thought about that. I actually have a box at the shop and will definitely start using them. Thanks...

Lefet
11-28-2010, 09:39 AM
Hey Bill, approximately how many blades do you sharpen at a time and how often? You sharpen daily or weekly?

DLAWNS
11-28-2010, 09:48 AM
Hey Bill, approximately how many blades do you sharpen at a time and how often? You sharpen daily or weekly?

It really depends, I have a few sets for each mower so sometimes I will just keep changing them until I run out. I probably have approximately 25 blades so sometimes I will do every one of them at once and sometimes I sharpen as I go to keep up on it. I don't sharpen daily. Usually once a week depending on conditions. In the spring when the grass is really thick or a lot of wet thick grass conditions I will sharpen twice in a week.

Lefet
11-28-2010, 09:58 AM
I kinda figures. I have to get a few more accounts next year to justify a magna-matic. I'm sure it makes life ALOT easier!

Lefet
11-28-2010, 09:59 AM
I kinda figures. I have to get a few more accounts next year to justify a magna-matic. I'm sure it makes life ALOT easier!

figureD, not figureS

DLAWNS
11-28-2010, 09:00 PM
I kinda figures. I have to get a few more accounts next year to justify a magna-matic. I'm sure it makes life ALOT easier!

Mine might be slight overkill for what I do as there is a smaller model, but here was my situation....I used to try to sharpen them with a grinder, but to be honest they came out terrible. So being that when I started out I only had a few blades and I only cut a few lawns, it was relatively inexpensive to have them sharpened at my mower dealer. Well after getting a few more sets of blades for each mower and a couple new mowers, I was spending a ridiculous amount of money getting them sharpened in addition to the hassle of dropping them off and picking them up as well as gas and waiting for them to be done on their schedule. So I cannot say enough about how much money, time, and energy this thing has saved me as well as peace of mind that there will be less wear on my machine because I know they are balanced correctly as well as being perfectly sharpened. My suggestion-as soon as the cost is justified, get one of these!

Lefet
11-29-2010, 08:37 AM
Yepper!! And MY plan is to be able to justify the cost NEXT SEASON!!
And it is a hassle. I'm using a grinder now and it's a pain in the butt. I'd love to have a fresh set just ready and waiting. I'll have to look into the less expensive model.

br549oicu8
11-29-2010, 12:57 PM
Hey All! Grassman's Dad here...
I ordered a new Magna-Matic at the GIE Expo this year. The 8000 model to be exact.
They had a show special on part of it, so I got the stand, light, rolling wheel kit, extra wheels, balancer and of course the main unit. I assembled it yesterday. It's pretty quiet compared to the RBG. My RBG has served us quite well, and still works great, but I wanted to upgrade. The RBG is now for sale locally, too heavy to ship.
The Magna-Matic has an outlet for a vac attachment. My vac hose and the outlet are definitely no the same size. Does anyone here know a good place to find a rubber boot?? I am not sure what to look for, but it would be much like a PVC reducer, only rubber so I can put a hose clamp on it to secure it.
Thanks!

Magna-Matic
11-29-2010, 04:50 PM
Hello All,
Ok in this post I'm going to go through and answer all of DLAWNS questions.

1. The first question you asked talked about the "end of the blade." My
guess is you are talking about the TIP or cutting tooth of the blade. The end or pointed part of the blade is the primary cutting area on the blade, this is evident when you look at a used blade the tip has become rounded, and metal has actually worn away and the dimension of the blade has changed. Lawn mower blades are measured diagonally because the TIPS actually stick out and make-up the full diameter of the blade. The TIPS of the blade (and the first 1-2 inches) do 95% of the cutting work. A dull lawn mower blade is defined as a blade that has rounded TIPS. So when sharpening a blade you want to grind back the face of the cutting edge to bring the TIP out again, or grind back until the TIP is “square-looking.” When you are going back and forth against the grinding wheel, take care to back-off your pressure into the grinding wheel so you don’t slip across the face of the wheel and ruin the TIP you just ground.

2. The second question was about a rough edge, this is the burr that is created when you have to grind back so much material. This rough edge or burr is just a by-product of grinding a lot of material – you have done nothing wrong. Simply take a hand file and with one or two passes with the file take the burr off. This is mainly done for safety so you don’t cut yourself.

3. Where should you start sharpening? This is preferential; you can start any place on the blade you like. I recommend that when servicing a blade to first clean it – inspect for fractures and see if it is worth re-sharpening (bent etc). Next sharpen both tips of the blade so they are square again. Next check the balance, if one side is out-of-balance use more of the interior of the cutting edge for the balance correct, and stay away from the nice TIPS you just ground.

4. How do I know when a blade is worn out? When looking at a new blade, look at the “underside” or “land-side” of the blade. Note the distance from the tip to where the bend of the lift begins. This width of material is your “LIFE-of-the-blade.” This is why you should try and remove as little steel as possible near the TIP – this will prolong the life of the blade.

5. When should I change my grinding wheel? The simple answer is when it is all gone. Unlike some of our competitors we allow adjustment to use the grinding wheel up to the blotter (circle paper label). Some people like to flip the wheel around on the MAG-9000 due to the self-dressed angle – which is perfectly fine to do if you want use every last bit of the wheel up.

Well let me know if I covered everything

Magna-Matic
11-29-2010, 04:58 PM
Hello All,

Ok above there was some mention of using face masks so as not to breath in any grinding dust.

This is always a good idea to wear while grinding. While a shop-vac will get a great majority of the dust and debris there will still be a bit of dust in the air.

We're currently working on our own vac/air cleaner design for our sharpeners to provide a 3 stage filtering system to shoot for a 95% air cleaning level so that you would not absolutely wear a mask.

The last post from br549oicu8 - just for your information - Magna-Matic sharpeners are designed for a 2.5" diameter hose - if you bought a 5 HP or greater shop-vac that should be the hose size, and it should fit right in. If you have a Craftsman vac or a smaller HP vac then your hose will be too small. The connection for the sharpener is a 2.5" inside diameter of the grit guard - so 2.5" outside diameter for the hose you'll use..

Thank you,

DLAWNS
11-29-2010, 11:01 PM
Hello All,
Ok in this post I'm going to go through and answer all of DLAWNS questions.

1. The first question you asked talked about the "end of the blade." My
guess is you are talking about the TIP or cutting tooth of the blade. The end or pointed part of the blade is the primary cutting area on the blade, this is evident when you look at a used blade the tip has become rounded, and metal has actually worn away and the dimension of the blade has changed. Lawn mower blades are measured diagonally because the TIPS actually stick out and make-up the full diameter of the blade. The TIPS of the blade (and the first 1-2 inches) do 95% of the cutting work. A dull lawn mower blade is defined as a blade that has rounded TIPS. So when sharpening a blade you want to grind back the face of the cutting edge to bring the TIP out again, or grind back until the TIP is “square-looking.” When you are going back and forth against the grinding wheel, take care to back-off your pressure into the grinding wheel so you don’t slip across the face of the wheel and ruin the TIP you just ground.

2. The second question was about a rough edge, this is the burr that is created when you have to grind back so much material. This rough edge or burr is just a by-product of grinding a lot of material – you have done nothing wrong. Simply take a hand file and with one or two passes with the file take the burr off. This is mainly done for safety so you don’t cut yourself.

3. Where should you start sharpening? This is preferential; you can start any place on the blade you like. I recommend that when servicing a blade to first clean it – inspect for fractures and see if it is worth re-sharpening (bent etc). Next sharpen both tips of the blade so they are square again. Next check the balance, if one side is out-of-balance use more of the interior of the cutting edge for the balance correct, and stay away from the nice TIPS you just ground.

4. How do I know when a blade is worn out? When looking at a new blade, look at the “underside” or “land-side” of the blade. Note the distance from the tip to where the bend of the lift begins. This width of material is your “LIFE-of-the-blade.” This is why you should try and remove as little steel as possible near the TIP – this will prolong the life of the blade.

5. When should I change my grinding wheel? The simple answer is when it is all gone. Unlike some of our competitors we allow adjustment to use the grinding wheel up to the blotter (circle paper label). Some people like to flip the wheel around on the MAG-9000 due to the self-dressed angle – which is perfectly fine to do if you want use every last bit of the wheel up.

Well let me know if I covered everything


You covered everything.......Thank you so much for all of the great information! The first question though was the "end of the blade" I meant the farthest end of the blade from the center hole. I'll take a picture one of these days as it is very hard to explain what I mean. I appreciate all the time and effort helping me out. Do I order new wheels and a new table right from the website? Also I would love some info on the vac system that you guys are working on once it becomes available. Thanks again Gerd!

Magna-Matic
11-30-2010, 10:36 AM
Hello Bill,

Yes you can use the online store it has a nice one page checkout and is the offical factory online store so the order is handled directly by Magna-Matic no other intermediaries.

Thank you for the complements about the equipment we are very proud of the quality and design of our products.

Hope you had a good Thanksgiving!

DLAWNS
11-30-2010, 12:10 PM
Hello Bill,

Yes you can use the online store it has a nice one page checkout and is the offical factory online store so the order is handled directly by Magna-Matic no other intermediaries.

Thank you for the complements about the equipment we are very proud of the quality and design of our products.

Hope you had a good Thanksgiving!

Ok great. Thank you again! Have a great holiday!

grassman177
12-01-2010, 08:30 PM
good answers, sorry i forgot about this thread, should have subscribed.

anyways, i am a bit confused to the whole squaring the tip of the blade every time.

is a way to reduce the amount of curving at the tip of the blade? got a pic to demonstrate the method of sharpening you described.

cheapcuts1
12-01-2010, 09:22 PM
I have trouble it seems with the new Gator G6 blades, it seems as though they have two different angles to them. Its almost like it has a 30 degrees at the ends and 35 as you get closer to the center hole ?

Magna-Matic
12-02-2010, 10:11 AM
Hello,

What model of sharpener of ours are you using?
What kind of mower are these blades on?

Grasshopper and John Deere have a blade that can be difficult but we have special worktable to resolve the issue.

Magna-Matic
12-02-2010, 10:22 AM
Hello Grassman,

Visit this link to our site:
http://www.magna-matic.com/page/blade-education

Then click on lawn mower blade tip geometry. This will show some diagrams of the TIP that i was talking about earlier, feel free to ask more questions after looking at the info.

There is nothing that you can do to reduce the radius that is produced by using the lawn mower blade - this is simply the natural wear pattern and where the blade wears (or loses material). This wear is the reason for sharpening. It is only the misconception of making a blade like a sword with the edge like a razor, that provides confusion about blade service.

The first 1-2 inches of the blade (from the tip inward) does 95% or better of the cutting, and when looking at a worn blade this is where the steel is actually WORN AWAY - if you look at the rest of the blade it will be "polished" or perhaps have some damage from rocks or other objects - but actual wear from cutting grass occurs at the TIP.

When the TIP becomes a radius (curved) your blade is shorter in overall length, this can be the reason for "stringers" or blades of grass left uncut in rows between the blades of a multi-blade deck.

To bring back the TIP (which is not perfectly square, but is approx 87-89 degrees) you need to grind the face of the cutting edge back until the TIP is pointed or square looking again. When you look at RELIEF ANGLE ONE in the geometry diagram you'll see that the tip is not square but a few degrees less so that the TIP sticks out the furthest. Mower blades length specs are as a TIP TO TIP diagonal measurement (like a television).

Thank you,

grassman177
12-02-2010, 09:58 PM
your explanation was good, i will check the site too though thanks.

will be using your 8000 model very soon to sharpen all of the blades ready for spring.