PDA

View Full Version : Patching in the spring?


hambone13
12-16-2010, 12:21 PM
I know that lawns get best establishment with a fall planting, but if you have to patch areas in the spring; does any type of grass have a better chance of surviving summer heat other than others? I currently have a mix of fescue, hybrid bluegrass and some perennial rye in shady areas.

Smallaxe
12-19-2010, 08:48 AM
Generally, any grass that does well in your area is suitable for springtime patchwork.

Success, has more to do with the soil conditions, mowing heights in summer, and the timing of the root inhibitor applications, than anything.

Pistol
12-19-2010, 05:18 PM
Smallaxe,
What are root inhibitors, and why would you use them in growing grass.

RigglePLC
12-19-2010, 09:19 PM
He probably means crabgrass control--which might prevent seed emergence. Cold soil is a problem during spring seedings. You need to start about the week of the first mowing. About when 2 pm temps hit 60 degrees. I am from Michigan so your conditions are not familiar to me. Perennial rye will emerge fast--customer is impressed--but--I am thinking it should be mixed with a high-quality tall fescue, plus about 10 percent bluegrass to help the fescue creep, knit together and provide self-healing abilities. Lateral spread fescue would be a good option. There is a good chance the rye will not survive the heat if temps go over 90. As you said--maybe in the shade. Pre-germinate if you don't mind the extra equipment and labor. Your climate data shows that you should probably seed in late March.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richmond,_Virginia#Climate

Stillwater
12-20-2010, 08:10 AM
Smallaxe,
What are root inhibitors, and why would you use them in growing grass.

pre-emergent herbicides... to curtail the proliferation of common lawn weed

Smallaxe
12-20-2010, 09:50 AM
Smallaxe,
What are root inhibitors, and why would you use them in growing grass.

As has been stated, root inhibitors kill baby seedlings... Crabgrass is generally the target, but root inhibitors, inhibit root growth on everything that absorbs it.

Your turf grass seedlings CAN be expected to survive the summer heat, but stunting the roots may present a problem.

I wouldn't bother seeding in the spring, unless I can control the timing of Pre-m.

grassman177
12-20-2010, 01:41 PM
i usually only seed in spring if the area is very bare, otherwise it poses an issue with pre em that i would like to avoid if i can .

Hissing Cobra
12-20-2010, 05:54 PM
If you're seeding shady areas, especially those areas where there's Moss growth or plain, bare soil, you can do this in the spring and be very successful. The key is apply a Starter Fertilizer at the time of seeding to spark growth and to follow that up four weeks later with another application of Starter Fertilizer. It's essential to keep the Pre-emergent control products out of those areas! You won't need them in those areas anyway as Crabgrass will never inundate a shady part of a lawn. Usually you'll have thinning issues or Moss issues instead.

As for the seed, the Turf Type Tall Fescues (Lesco's Teammates) are very good at resisting drought and that's what I'm usually recommending to those people who don't want to or can't water too often.

Smallaxe
12-20-2010, 06:04 PM
i usually only seed in spring if the area is very bare, otherwise it poses an issue with pre em that i would like to avoid if i can .

Many things can affect a lawn over winter, that makes it desirable to fix it up in the spring for a pleasant summer. Here is the midwest, especially in the areas that have some trees, root inhibition is not only undesirable, but unnecessary after 5- 10 years of care.

When it continues to be a needed application... Timing... is everything... :)

Of course this only works if the Scaper is a full service provider... Some of my people insist on TGCL to do the 'professional' job of lawncare and if they want better and thicker turf, they do it themselves...

RigglePLC
12-20-2010, 08:19 PM
Where possible use sod in the spring. Quick, easy, get paid sooner. No worries about crabgrass pre-emergent.

Smallaxe
12-23-2010, 08:26 AM
Where possible use sod in the spring. Quick, easy, get paid sooner. No worries about crabgrass pre-emergent.

Still be careful about root inhibitor with sod. The roots are barely 3/8 inches long when its cut nowadays. 1&1/2 - 2 inches of greenery to support, you want those roots to establish as quickly as possible.

We had a nice layout of about 1.5 k of sod in the flat open sunny spot. Within a couple of days the squirt and fert guy comes through with inhibitor and the game was on... The yellowing and deadzones just never let up for a long time. Watering, and watering until CG was growing in the sod... Ironic isn't it. :)
The sod just couldn't take in enough water to grow healthy. And i wasn't the sod or the prep and laydown, because the same stuff was beautiful elsewhere, with no inhibitor applied.

Patriot Services
01-02-2011, 01:51 PM
The squirt guy couldn't tell it was new sod? Don't these techs get training anymore? I would be filing a damages suit.
Posted via Mobile Device

Darryl G
01-02-2011, 01:58 PM
My experience is that unless it's irrigated, grass seeded in the spring has a poor chance of surviving through the summer, regardless of the variety...it just doesn't get rooted deep enough. With that said, I usually do end up doing some spring seeding of high visibility bare areas, but I make it clear to my customers that it will probably need to be done again in the fall.

Smallaxe
01-02-2011, 08:15 PM
My experience is that unless it's irrigated, grass seeded in the spring has a poor chance of surviving through the summer, regardless of the variety...it just doesn't get rooted deep enough. With that said, I usually do end up doing some spring seeding of high visibility bare areas, but I make it clear to my customers that it will probably need to be done again in the fall.

Sometimes all that makes it through is the AR, but much better than mud. It helps cover and protect the perennial grasses as well, so I always apply both. Never know when you get lucky.

bx24
01-02-2011, 09:14 PM
I just put on about 125 lbs of FF today in the northeast (MA) area...Dormant seeding is great!!!