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coachc
12-19-2010, 02:51 PM
took over maintenance of residential home in Raleigh, NC this fall. Home has Emerald Zoysia that was in excellent condition for years. Owners were out of the country last summer and left irrigation up to mother nature. Very dry summer! Several areas of the zoysia turf damaged from drought. Currently we are in December, turf is dormant, but after leaf removal, I can see a lot of turf came up with rakes and we will need to be aggressive in late spring to establish coverage quickly. Any guidance for this coming Spring to help ensure rapid recovery of this zoysia?
Notes:soil is well balanced per soil test, turf in full sun. applied potash in late october. Any advice is welcomed. Thanks!

Patriot Services
12-21-2010, 08:00 AM
If the areas are not too big I would top dress and seed when it comes available. I think most dealers are sold out for the season. Sod splicing is another option. I would wait until temps stay above 60 for this. Zoysia is forever and will come back rapidly in spring with proper care.
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coachc
12-21-2010, 08:41 AM
If the areas are not too big I would top dress and seed when it comes available. I think most dealers are sold out for the season. Sod splicing is another option. I would wait until temps stay above 60 for this. Zoysia is forever and will come back rapidly in spring with proper care.
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Thanks for the reply. I thought Emerald Zoysia did not have seed, only sprigs or sod. If there is seed, that would be great! As I looked at the property yesterday, there are several areas where some turf has crept into beds. I'm thinking of cutting out the encroaching turf and transplanting it (like springs) to the affected areas, but per your suggestion, I should wait until temps are above 60 (including nights).

Patriot Services
12-21-2010, 09:41 AM
Seedland calls it Compadre which is almost a dead ringer in appearence. It also has faster germination and fewer nutrition/water demands. I just checked and they are sold out until spring. Any transplant attempts now are just fighting dormancy. If they really want the envy of the hood yard I would do both. As always it comes down to how much do they want spend.
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PremierT&L
02-09-2011, 11:59 PM
I was just looking at the seedland website after reading this thread. I think Patriot may be confusing emerald zoysia for meyer zoysia. Emerald is much finer than the pictures of Compadre on the website.

I don't think this is a suitable option for you Coachhc. I think you'll have a tough time getting the seed up, and if you do I don't think it will look like the existing yard.

Depending on how big your bare spots are, you should be able to get those areas to recover with a nice core aeration in late spring followed by a little extra fertilizer and water. Don't overdo the fert and water though, and don't go too early or you'll get brown patch. If that lawn was healthy for years you should still have some rhizomes under the soil, which means the spots will fill in from underneath as well as from the sides. if you have large bare areas that don't show any signs of recovery by early summer, you'll probably have to sod.

My experience has been that seeded zoysia is crap. I haven't grown compadre, but I've grown a ton of zenith and it's garbage. That picture of the golf course fairway on the seedland website is from my old golf course where I was Superintendent for 8 years. That was zenith zoysia not compadre. It was beautiful when we first grew it in, but it couldn't hold up to any traffic or wear, and was highly succeptible to disease. It's long gone now except for on the outer edges of the course. It's all been replaced with bermuda. I've heard others say that zenith has done well for them in lawns, but again, it's not going to match up with your emerald.

I would just try to grow it back in form the existing stand and sod in any large bare areas. Good luck

Patriot Services
02-10-2011, 08:26 AM
You are correct on the texture, there is a slight difference. However the Compadre's color is a perfect match for Emerald. I have been experimenting with different grasses. People in Florida are looking for an option to chinchbug feed (SA). Zenith is crap, it's the Bahaia of Zoysia's. Splicing in fresh sod pieces are probably the most fool proof repair in this case. A soil test and and any necessary correction will go a long way too.
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Accu-cut Lawn Care
02-10-2011, 11:11 AM
The pic in my avatar is Emerald Zoysia. I love that stuff. Bare areas are no problem. After a month of greenup, HEAVILY aerate, then rake some cores into the dead areas. Fertilize heavily. Skip cuts on the affected areas for a few weeks... Or more, as emerald zoysia is not as fast a mover a something like 419 bermuda, etc.

FLCthes4:11-12
02-10-2011, 02:15 PM
If the areas are bad I think you would do better by just getting a pallet and prep and sod the dead spots then topdress the edges with topsoil and sand mix. just my .02

MeandMyself
02-10-2011, 02:30 PM
I have to go with FLC on this one. Just make sure potential of freezing temps are done. Emerald seems to be pretty sensitive before taking solid root in my experience.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
02-10-2011, 05:14 PM
To flc and mm... Wait til frozen temps???? You mean wait until it greens up. In nc, I bet that's long after april 1st.

That would be ridiculous to sod in Emerald Zoysia in bare spots... When it's planted in full sun, like the poster says it is, it is NOT hard to heal in. Spot sodding only makes a mess in my opinion... Ie, raised edges, ugly, hard to maintain.

To answer your pm coach, make sure it doesn't need lime... Do your regular wake up fert with iron at first sign of greenup... Then wait until it's kind of vigorous before you aerate the hell out of it... Then fert with a high, aggressive amount of nitrogen. Make sure to keep extra water on it when you do this... as it will use all you can put on it short of saturation.

In the future falls, dont rake over zoysia. The dormant thatch doesn't like that kind of agitation. Use blowers.

Think Green
02-10-2011, 05:15 PM
Coach,
All the Guys are making valiant recommendations but in my experiences with Emerald zoysia--"Grown in Arkansas is the slowest of the species of Zoysia grasses. I have read all other sites regarding this species and each has some information that is misleading. It requires the lowest fertilizer applications to two times per season. Overfertilization will lead to yellowing and death. This grass is prone to thatch if overfertilized also. So, if there are dead places from drought, winter injury or excessive thatch and disease, it needs to be aerated and replaced with complete sod pieces. Overfertilizing, watering and close mowing to force a turf that is slow to spread is ludicrous. Replace the sod according to species, not something that is similar and you will make a happy customer. If Emerald isn't an option in your area, then plugging is possible but tell the customer to expect 1-3 years for full recovery. I have yet to hear of this species of turf be a germinating seed producer. It spreads vegetatively!!

Patriot Services
02-10-2011, 05:33 PM
Many of the same reasons why it really hasn't caught on and lived up to all its miracle claims.
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Think Green
02-10-2011, 05:51 PM
Emerald is another of the "WOW" species that is supposed to be tolerant to all zones??
Greener in color, softer under the foot, and less maintenance compared to the rest.
I love all the species of Zoysia, however they are easier to control weeds and to control erosion. If I am over zealous with this grass, it is because I love the way it grows. It really beats Cynadon Dactylon to the dirt--in all aspects.

Accu-cut Lawn Care
02-10-2011, 06:47 PM
Coach,
All the Guys are making valiant recommendations but in my experiences with Emerald zoysia--"Grown in Arkansas is the slowest of the species of Zoysia grasses. I have read all other sites regarding this species and each has some information that is misleading. It requires the lowest fertilizer applications to two times per season. Overfertilization will lead to yellowing and death. This grass is prone to thatch if overfertilized also. So, if there are dead places from drought, winter injury or excessive thatch and disease, it needs to be aerated and replaced with complete sod pieces. Overfertilizing, watering and close mowing to force a turf that is slow to spread is ludicrous. Replace the sod according to species, not something that is similar and you will make a happy customer. If Emerald isn't an option in your area, then plugging is possible but tell the customer to expect 1-3 years for full recovery. I have yet to hear of this species of turf be a germinating seed producer. It spreads vegetatively!!

I never said to close mow. My zoysia looked best at 4" actually... and I didn't say to fert, fert, fert, fert. I said to follow a good dewinterization fert program... Then, upon complete greenup, fertilize with an aggressive amount of nitrogen after a nice aeration. Collect some of the core plugs and spread them over the stressed areas. Never did I say overfertilize! I think many people on this site thrive off being contraires.

Good luck coach.

juststartin
02-10-2011, 07:33 PM
I think it also depends on the square footage of "bareness". I have emerald zoysia at my shop(because it is the absolute best turf grass available) and small bare spots seem to recover from drought(when somebody unplugs my irrigation controller!!). But if the areas are larger... just sod it. If you know how to patch grass correctly, virtually immediatley after installation you will not be able to tell it is a patch. Of course, this requires cutting out the spots and even removing some of the dirt because the sod comes with 1/2 inch of dirt.

I prefer mowing zoysia as close as possible. If I had the patience, I would reel mow it. It seems to produce a more dense vibrant plant.

Think Green
02-10-2011, 07:47 PM
Accu-cut,
Didn't intend to demoralize your comments. It is often taken the wrong way with zoysia species of grasses. I agree with nitrogen regimines, however, zoysia is so slow to fill and enclose large damaged areas. It has been our long term experiences to go the mile and replace the areas rather than spend the time and effort to do extensive cultural practices at the customers expense.
Non taken as a harsh response. I just pin point out things are often done wrong with our region. It may not be as unproductive in your area. This grass is host to a lot of different soil conditions and kinds.
Thanks.

Think Green
02-10-2011, 07:50 PM
Startin,
Yes, close mowing looks wonderful if you have the ground for it. In my region, bumpy, rolling and uneven terrain is what people settle for growing mediums. It is best in these conditions to mow our zoysia's at around 2-3 inches at all times throughout our growing season. In the early spring, we scalp this stuff back to an inch and allow the soil to warm up. Start fertilizing in May after the soil warms up and the grass is actively sprouting.

PremierT&L
02-10-2011, 08:23 PM
Wow! Kinda sorry I bumped this thread as it has lead to some conflicting advice. Botton line is if your stand is thin with small bare areas you'll be able to fill it in. If you have large bare areas you'll need to sod. Stay away from the seed. Good luck!

Patriot Services
02-10-2011, 08:26 PM
In Florida we too scalp it in spring just like Bermuda and use a starter type mix with 4% iron to get good green. Proper sod splicing should be near seamless. To show my point in color google image Emerald Zoysia. The color and texture do vary among regions and conditions. Top dressing with a similar seed ensures good seasonal rejuvination. Vegetative species all share the same downfall when they become weak and thin over large areas.
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PremierT&L
02-10-2011, 09:40 PM
Well of course there's always more than 1 way to skin a cat when it comes to growing grass, so i'm not claiming that my way is the only way here, but I think the seeded grass is going to stand out in a nice stand of emerald. Color might match, but the texture won't and I'm sure there will be some other visual differences as well such as timing of dormancy.

I'm also nervous about doing a true scalp up here on Zoysia as it takes so long to recover from the shock, and our growing season is much shorter up here. I prefer to just mow it a half inch or so below regular height and core aerate. I can see though how your method would probably work well down in FL.

I disagree with your statement about all vegatative species eventually becoming weak over large areas. I grew some vegatative bermuda and zoysia earlier in my career on some very old golf courses that was hearty as hell and we never over seeded other than maybe rye in the winter. It's all about the cultural practices.

Patriot Services
02-11-2011, 06:23 AM
Slightly off topic but research St Augustine Decline for information on vegetative species weakening over time. I feel the lengthy recovery times of some Zoysia species will eventually lead to this type of condition. But if we don't experiment we never find out what alternatives to more chemicals we have.
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PremierT&L
02-11-2011, 08:42 AM
Yes I'm aware of St. Augustine decline, but I'm not aware of any decline in Zoysia or Bermuda. You may be right about some of the new Zoysias with decline who knows, but I don't think the proven varieties like meyer and emerald are going to start declining. These grasses have been around for a while.

Patriot Services
02-11-2011, 09:54 AM
I think we can agree his best and fastest bet is to resod the areas when it warms. Shopping the suppliers will find a perfect match as individual farms will vary.
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Patriot Services
02-11-2011, 09:58 AM
Wow! Kinda sorry I bumped this thread as it has lead to some conflicting advice. Botton line is if your stand is thin with small bare areas you'll be able to fill it in. If you have large bare areas you'll need to sod. Stay away from the seed. Good luck!

Nah! This thread actually has good opinions by professionals with personal experience. We respected eachothers opposing views and made valid counterpoints. We did not allow it to degrade to pointless chest pounding and name calling. Hopefully the OP took away enough information to be able to help the homeowner and put some money in his pocket.
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coachc
02-11-2011, 11:35 AM
Thanks for all of the advice, everyone! I didn't even consider the raking in the winter of dormant zoysia.
The affected areas aren't too big on this homeowners property, so I'll do the heavy aerating, then rake in the stolons into the affected areas, heavy fert and saturate like newly sodded. Question: This zoysia is so thick that it is extremely hard to get good plugs from aeration. What kind of aerator are you using to get through the density of Emerald?