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View Full Version : Is there a pre-emergence for nutsedge in fescue?


august
12-23-2010, 10:10 PM
We post treat using sedge hammer with marginal results. Sometimes it may take several apps to kill it.

Our local John Deere Landscapes says there is no pre-m for nutsedge in fescue.

Really?

I would love to get rid of nutsedge.

phillie
12-23-2010, 11:27 PM
There are none that I know of. Ive used sedge hammer with ok results when mixed with a sticking agent but I like dismiss better. It seems to work better and quicker. Ive been reducing how much pops up year after year but all you can do is jut keep spraying as soon as you see it.

august
12-23-2010, 11:45 PM
Interesting.

JD also told me that new nutsedge growth is most vulnerable. Within a few days new shoots envelop a waxy coating that seems to repel the post emergent even with a sticker spreader.

It's evil.

Stupid sedge.

However, you can pull it by the roots very carefully if it's only a little.

I have a property that's an H.O.A that has developed a 30%-40% coverage in the last couple of years.

I'm thinking of sending about six employees for a day to pull it if they can do it right and not screw it up. It's an important contract that we don't want to lose and they don't want to hear we can't get rid of weeds.

Stupid sedge.

daveyo
12-24-2010, 12:23 AM
We post treat using sedge hammer with marginal results. Sometimes it may take several apps to kill it.

Our local John Deere Landscapes says there is no pre-m for nutsedge in fescue.

Really?

I would love to get rid of nutsedge.

Here in NJ Nutsedge germinates May 10th, I wait until the leaf blade gets long (first week of June is good) and hit it with Dismiss. Dismiss has a 100 day residual so you have to be careful on your second app (in 5 weeks) if your reseeding, and you'll need a second app. That works for me, now I heard that Echelon can work as a preemergent I never tried it and the label does not state this. Try Turf.Rutgers.Edu for data concerning test plots.

cgaengineer
12-24-2010, 12:39 AM
No pre-m for nutsedge that I know of.
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august
12-24-2010, 12:54 AM
Here in NJ Nutsedge germinates May 10th, I wait until the leaf blade gets long (first week of June is good) and hit it with Dismiss. Dismiss has a 100 day residual so you have to be careful on your second app (in 5 weeks) if your reseeding, and you'll need a second app. That works for me, now I heard that Echelon can work as a preemergent I never tried it and the label does not state this. Try Turf.Rutgers.Edu for data concerning test plots.

Echelon seems to be the buzzword for some zones but it won't for mine. We've used Dismiss before but I don't recall it being for nutsedge.

We only seed in the fall. In the late winter/early spring we put down pre-emergent.

Stupid sedge.

grassman177
12-24-2010, 01:38 AM
dont pull it, it wil just make it worse and much more so. just hit it with herbicide meant to kill it(save sedgehammer if it is a large area due to cost) and then again the next round or if it is bad enough educate your customers and work in an extra visit just for nutsedge. education is the best thing.

my customers with sedge issues appreciate the knowledge of the plant i have given them or sent them to university links to get. this yeat was a bad year, but i killed it once it was getting started. i let it all get visible before spraying(mid june) and get much less come back between rounds.

ted putnam
12-24-2010, 01:43 AM
Overwatering can make the problem worse also. If the area is irrigated, make sure you have a handle on it.

cgaengineer
12-24-2010, 02:21 AM
Overwatering can make the problem worse also. If the area is irrigated, make sure you have a handle on it.

Yes, sedge loves wet saturated soil...in fact it will completely take over these kids of areas. every lawn of mine that has it is eaither in a bog or and area where rain water/irrigation is concentrated like a swale.
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rwsawal04
12-24-2010, 03:18 AM
Yeah there's no pre-emerge for nutgrass. That would be a miracle. lol

Turfdoctor1
12-24-2010, 08:49 AM
Overwatering can make the problem worse also. If the area is irrigated, make sure you have a handle on it.

ding ding ding, Ted nailed it. sedge also loves compacted soils.

In some cases, you can't change this situation. But, for the most part, managing sedges is about changing the environment it is growing in.

As far as educating customers, it is important not only to educate them on the weed itself, but the problems that causes it to be worse.

Our competitors sell 3 extra treatments for nutsedge. I personally refuse to do this. But, I also try to educate our customers that we spot spray sedge at each visit and that if they want a blanket application for sedge control it is an additional cost. We do this as an upsell in our prepay letters at the beginning of the year. Few actually take the service. But, when they call and ask why they have sedge, it is an opportunity for me to point back at that letter.

If you try to blanket sedgehammer with no additional fees, your margins have to be pretty darn good. You are looking at about $2.00 per K just for the sedge control, not including any other costs for that trip. Our margins are set to spend about $1.00-$1.10 in chemical per visit. Can't afford sedgehammer as a blanket application unless it is paid for, or an extremely important client.

RigglePLC
12-24-2010, 10:45 AM
No pre-emergent. In the past we have charged extra for nutsedge control. Hand sprayer with Sedgehammer. Works easier if it is an automatic part of the customer's program for next year--no need for extra trips. Wet soil or dry soil--problems are the same around here. But it is important to follow the label. Calibrate carefully--use it full strength. Do not mow for 48 hours before and for 48 hours after treatment. Use a surfactant to wet it thouroughly. (Like Capsil). Start early when the sedge is young--June around here, but in general when temps hit about 85. Repeat in about 2 weeks if needed--remember it is all connected together by the roots and rhizomes. Kill it all, or it will come back. We only have yellow nutsedge around here. Its cold. If you want to be sure--bag up your infested soil and ship it to Marquette for the winter.

grass4gas
12-24-2010, 12:52 PM
I used T-Zone this year for the first time as a trial basis at first. I liked it so much that I ended up buying a case of it...totally nuked the nutgrass. The label states suppresion of n/g so I am curious to see how well it did come late spring, but it was a nice pretty shade of brown after a few days.

Now, sedgehammer never looks like it is working, as it is slow to show results initally...kinda like watching grass grow...you don't see it die but it does after a couple of weeks.

T-Zone is a combo product...bwc and n/g control. It has Triclopyr in it for hard to control weeds. I practically quit usuing sedgehammer as a result. Nothing wrong with sedgehammer, it's just a one and done product.

Yes, low lying, saturated and compacted soil all contribute to nutgrass pressure.

daveyo
12-24-2010, 01:43 PM
Echelon seems to be the buzzword for some zones but it won't for mine. We've used Dismiss before but I don't recall it being for nutsedge.

We only seed in the fall. In the late winter/early spring we put down pre-emergent.

Stupid sedge.

Yes Dismiss, Sulfentrazone, works well. Two applications spread out over a four to five week period will give you in the upper 90% total kill rate. Now I always time it after germination, with the right conditions here in NJ.

I've seen Kalinga and sedges on dry slopes and non irrigated lawns also last season but last season was "extra special" here.

grassman177
12-24-2010, 02:31 PM
the last two years had been extra wet which made it worse, so i now use surge and q4 during those times of year to hit the sedges as well. been great and much easier than separate mixes like sedgehammer, and cheaper.

a dry year on the same lawn that had issues will present very little nutsedge which makes you look like a hero that year, but when it comes back you get calls!!!!

i started using a pre emergent this year for shrub beds that is labeled for nutsedge and it does work quite well. i was very impressed. it is called Freehand 1.75G. of course, not labeled for turf.