PDA

View Full Version : Fert then Plug?


GWhunter
03-20-2011, 02:11 PM
I was going to lay down some straight fert this week and plug next weekend.
The lawn is new last spring and needs some overseeding also. I'm tore as to straight fert or fert with pre emergent. I was thinking that applying the fert plus pre next round would be too late. Any thoughts?

Matt

BostonBull
03-20-2011, 02:46 PM
Did the soil test reveal that Fert was needed? I would personally plug, seed, compost. If you apply a preemergent you run the risk of killing off the seedling of grass you just planted........

RigglePLC
03-20-2011, 03:27 PM
Use the pre-emergent--don't risk crabgrass. Thicken the grass up with good water and fertility program after a soil test. And use more bluegrass--it creeps--rye does not. Sow seed in late summer, about Aug 15. Coolness and fall rains are best for seed.

Smallaxe
03-21-2011, 08:53 AM
One of the reasons for aeration is to get fertilizer into the root zone... so you would want to make the holes, first...

How your lawn looks when it greens up will determine the need for pre-m or not... If your ONLY choice is a lot of mud spots or CG, take a chance of good grass first, then go for the pre-m later, if at all...

GWhunter
03-21-2011, 12:04 PM
I should have given more detail. The lawn was hydroseeded in early spring of 2010. The lawn came in quite well for a spring lawn. The shaded area's greened up fast and flourished. The sunny spots came in on the thin side. I was able to thicked it with fall overseedeing and topdressing. I planted 50 PR,25 KBB,25 Fescue. I'd like to overseed with mostly KBB(improved variety). I was able to keep the crab grass at bay with hand picking and a liquid that didn't kill the grass. I believe the active ingredient was the Q stuff(actual name escapes me) Then when the CG would die I'd just hand pick it. I've got one are that had tree's really encroach. This area was very green but a bit to wet. I've since cut back the tree's and would like to plug an over seed, I used a core last fall and the lawn seemed to really like it. Since I found out my local rental place has a plugger I figured I'd plug then seed and fert without pre EM. Then when I add my second round of fert I was going to use pre. I could always use the liquid I used last year as well. But the lawn isn't bare by any means I just was to thicken and build.

Matt

RigglePLC
03-21-2011, 01:03 PM
My opinion--it is difficult, if not impossible to get bluegrass seed to take on top of existing grass. Give your grass top-notch care and it will thicken up. And...since you planted a lot of rye--there is a good chance your lawn is 95 percent rye. (Rye is faster and crowds out bluegrass in a seeding situation.)
If you overseed I suggest a top-quality, dark-green, disease-resistant rye like Silverdollar, in late summer or fall. You are better off to use crabgrass control now as the second round may be too late for crabgrass control, and the new grass (especially slow bluegrass) may not be strong enough to withstand the crabgrass control.
Also if you plant a high quality Kentucky bluegrass--and lawn is inexpensive ryegrass--you may get little spots of darker green bluegrass.

GWhunter
03-21-2011, 04:54 PM
Would I be better off slice seeding the KBB?

Matt

DA Quality Lawn & YS
03-21-2011, 05:23 PM
I agree control the crab now and slice seed in the fall with best varieties based upon the lawn.

Smallaxe
03-21-2011, 09:09 PM
Sounds like your lawn is doing fine... If you are willing to mow high, during the heat, and mulch mow throughout the season, you should ndo fine... It's not to complicated, especially when your success is immediate... :)