View Full Version : custom mulch Kit help!

09-26-2002, 01:35 PM
Anyone here ever make a mulch kit for a mower deck? I need to know (a good way) how to bend 1/8th steel to have it nice and round. I made a block-off plate for leaves but would like it to be better.

Can someone with a mulch Kit please tell me how far the blades are from the baffles?

Thanks in advance for your help.

09-26-2002, 04:31 PM
I have made one for a single blade mower, 32" rider. It didn't need baffles though, just a peice on the discharge shaped with the deck (the deck is like a Snapper Hi Vac almost if you know what that is). It has a little kicker plate to send the stuff back into the blade. I do not know of a good way to bend it, maybe with a sheet metal brake? What kind of a mower is it for? You can get on mower mfg's websites and usually see a pic of their mulching system under deck view, that might help some. Try to get it far enough from the blade so that the grass can stand up before it goes into the blade and to help airflow. Also, don't make the baffles completely encircle the blades. Leave an open area there to help airflow and so the blade overlap is not screwed up.
Good luck,

09-26-2002, 09:33 PM
It is for a Ferris 48" deck( 3- 16 1/4" blades). I put a block off plate on and the front blowout is just way too much (Running high lifts & Gators). My thinking is if I enclosed the blades more in the front it will eleminate some of the blowout... , will it?

09-26-2002, 11:09 PM
Sounds like you need a blow-out baffle then. I don't know if the front baffles will help any with blowout. Does it leave a windrow at the discharge where it's blocked or does it chop everything up good?

09-26-2002, 11:43 PM
I have been pondering this same concept to make anti blow out baffles for both of my Standers, and incorperate the ability to fully enclose them to make a more circular and encapsulated blade chamber to mulch better. I would imagine that you would have to heat the steel enough to make it plyable and maybe have a preformed half circle made from wood to use as a guide and be about a 1/4 inch wider than the radius of your blades. Then start hammering on an anvil till it is where you want it. You are working with close tolerances considering the average speed which a blade is rotating ... about 3000+ rpm or a 16 3/4 blade is about 16,500 fpm and a small mistake could lead to a lot of damage to the machine as well as injury to anyone close by if this are not measure, checked, re-checked and fitted properly.