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South Florida Lawns
04-17-2011, 10:33 PM
Anybody use Embark or Atrimmec on Ligustrums and or Viburnum hedges? I was thinking it would save tons of time.

zturncutter
04-17-2011, 10:59 PM
Several years ago I tried a growth regulator, I think it was Embark on some Viburnum Suspensum around my Koi pond in the front of my house. It controlled the growth but the foliage got quite a bit of brown spotting on it over time before it started to grow out again. Decided not to use on customer accounts.

ed2hess
04-17-2011, 11:35 PM
Atrimec will do the job on most stuff.....but some stuff like eleagnus it won't do a thing.

Keith
04-17-2011, 11:50 PM
I've used Cutless on viburnum. It slows them a great deal. But you are going to have to use a fairly high rate on a tall hedge.

BShaffer
04-18-2011, 01:20 AM
South Florida,

My mowing crews us attrimec on all of our hedges after every trim. We have already seen a big difference. The Label uses 2oz per gal on almost all hedges. Trim then spray immediately after, trim again in about 3 to 4 weeks and them you are set. You will only need to touch up about 6 weeks later and then reapply at the 2 oz rate. Hedges will look great!!

ed2hess
04-18-2011, 11:11 PM
South Florida,

My mowing crews us attrimec on all of our hedges after every trim. We have already seen a big difference. The Label uses 2oz per gal on almost all hedges. Trim then spray immediately after, trim again in about 3 to 4 weeks and them you are set. You will only need to touch up about 6 weeks later and then reapply at the 2 oz rate. Hedges will look great!!

As temp rise don't you see burn on some bushes?

BShaffer
04-19-2011, 12:15 AM
As temp rise don't you see burn on some bushes?

No, We make sure we dont get hand heavy, and we do drop the rate by a half oz.

South Florida Lawns
04-20-2011, 11:12 PM
South Florida,

My mowing crews us attrimec on all of our hedges after every trim. We have already seen a big difference. The Label uses 2oz per gal on almost all hedges. Trim then spray immediately after, trim again in about 3 to 4 weeks and them you are set. You will only need to touch up about 6 weeks later and then reapply at the 2 oz rate. Hedges will look great!!

Awesome thats the results I was looking for, thanks!

Ric
04-23-2011, 09:07 AM
.

While I have not had a lot of experience with RGR on plants I have a lot of experience with PGR on grass or what is commonly known as Chemical Mowing. Fact is if you search Chemical Mowing here on LS you might see my posts about it from 8 or 9 years ago

Primo and now generics work on turf by re-directing growth patterns laterally instead of vertical. PGR do the same, and you can actually thicken a Hedge with the use of PGR the same as you thicken turf with Primo. When Plugging a St Augustine I use Primo to help grow in the plugs quicker. I am sure this is a surprise to many.

Bahia and Bermuda are more hardy varieties and more tolerant of Herbicide. There are two basic types of PGR. One re-directs growth while the other stunts Chlorophyll production thus slowing plant growth. The former type causes tighter cell and Dark Green leaves while the latter MIGHT cause a yellowing or even brown out if applied heavy.

The economics of chemical mowing are such that latter type PGR discussed in the above paragraph are more cost effective on Bahia and Bermuda whereas the first PGR is better on St Augustine.

I am only touching the surface of technical part of Chemical Mowing here. I don't have will power to write a book on it, that might have only a limited audience. But I would be willing to teach a small group in people more about Chemical mowing.

WHAT LICENSE AND WHO CAN GET THOSE LICENSES.

Of Course a Commercial L & O is the Mack Daddy and can apply Chemicals to most any Turf. But anyone can sit for the Road and Right Away test to do Green belts for HOA. Also any Road or Right Away work for Government is also covered. The Road and Right Away license was in fact made just for Chemical Mowing. The study material for the test only covers PGR. Agriculture Estates fall under farming and no license is required.

If you are Interested Google Chemical Mowing and read as much as you can. then contact me to fill in the details of experience that you won't read on the net or in books.

Ric
04-23-2011, 11:10 AM
Yo

Let me Add a Punch Line to the above post.

I cut my own Bermuda Lawn 8 times in the last year and it was never over 6 inch tall and weed free.

BrendonTW
04-26-2011, 12:39 AM
.

While I have not had a lot of experience with RGR on plants I have a lot of experience with PGR on grass or what is commonly known as Chemical Mowing. Fact is if you search Chemical Mowing here on LS you might see my posts about it from 8 or 9 years ago

Primo and now generics work on turf by re-directing growth patterns laterally instead of vertical. PGR do the same, and you can actually thicken a Hedge with the use of PGR the same as you thicken turf with Primo. When Plugging a St Augustine I use Primo to help grow in the plugs quicker. I am sure this is a surprise to many.

Bahia and Bermuda are more hardy varieties and more tolerant of Herbicide. There are two basic types of PGR. One re-directs growth while the other stunts Chlorophyll production thus slowing plant growth. The former type causes tighter cell and Dark Green leaves while the latter MIGHT cause a yellowing or even brown out if applied heavy.

The economics of chemical mowing are such that latter type PGR discussed in the above paragraph are more cost effective on Bahia and Bermuda whereas the first PGR is better on St Augustine.

I am only touching the surface of technical part of Chemical Mowing here. I don't have will power to write a book on it, that might have only a limited audience. But I would be willing to teach a small group in people more about Chemical mowing.

WHAT LICENSE AND WHO CAN GET THOSE LICENSES.

Of Course a Commercial L & O is the Mack Daddy and can apply Chemicals to most any Turf. But anyone can sit for the Road and Right Away test to do Green belts for HOA. Also any Road or Right Away work for Government is also covered. The Road and Right Away license was in fact made just for Chemical Mowing. The study material for the test only covers PGR. Agriculture Estates fall under farming and no license is required.

If you are Interested Google Chemical Mowing and read as much as you can. then contact me to fill in the details of experience that you won't read on the net or in books.

Tried to PM you:

Ric,

Was just reading some of your information on turf growth regulators. I was curious to know if you mind if I give you a call sometime soon to discuss this matter further. I have a few questions and it appears that you have some experience with chemical mowing.

Look forward to hearing back,
Brendon

BrendonTW
04-26-2011, 12:40 AM
Your PM inbox was full Ric.

Ric
04-26-2011, 10:17 AM
Your PM inbox was full Ric.

Brendon

Yes I let my PM box stay full most of the time. It saves a lot of hassle and PITA from people asking private questions.

My experience is on Warm Season C-4 turf so I am not sure I could held you a great deal. Understand that while I tried to make Chemical mowing sound simple, it is rather complex and takes a lot of time to master. Besides the simple rate and calibration, most turf is not a Mono-stand and certain varieties of weeds or grass are not effected the same as the desirable turf by the PGR. Getting the correct mix per time of year and method to handle mother natures weed mix was a job in it's self. My first experience was to control the desirable turf only to have a number of weeds thrive due to lack of competition. It was 1996 that I first learned about chemical mowing and I have been fooling with it off and on since then. I believe I have it down to a science now and my own personal Bermuda lawn was mowed 8 times last year and was never over 6 inches tall.