PDA

View Full Version : My lawn is starving


CaptainPike
04-21-2011, 10:29 PM
I've been planting grass like mad but it hardly grows.

Finally bought a soil test. It has high alkaline and the NPK content is very low.

What would be a good fertilizer to put on it, and how often should it be applied?

Dr.NewEarth
04-21-2011, 10:49 PM
224 posts?

Get your pH down just below 7 or neutral.
Do you use gypsum there to lower your pH?
We use lime here to raise our pH

You want to use a quality starter fertilizer to help germinate the seeds.

I would wait a week to apply fertilizer after putting down lime.
I am not aware if gypsum depletes nigtrogen as lime does. Any-body?
Use a broadcast spreader
The Scott's stuff you get at the H.D. is pretty good program.
Only use quality slow release fertilizers and grade 1 lawn seed

Fertilize three or four times this year. Be sure to do a late fall/winter fertilizer too as this will help the roots for next season.
Test the soil again later in the year.
Cut the lawn at 2 to 2.5 inches and mulch if you can.

Use a sharp blade

Water deep, but irregularly. You could put out a tuna fish can and time how long it takes to fill it with the sprinkler. Then water twice a week for that duration
When it's full

O.K. now every-body else...

BlazerRidge
04-21-2011, 10:49 PM
How high is "high"? Use sulfur to lower the ph of your yard. A good starter fert is a good balanced fert. I usually use 10-10-10 or 12-12-12

CaptainPike
04-22-2011, 12:21 AM
224 posts?

Get your pH down just below 7 or neutral.
Do you use gypsum there to lower your pH?
We use lime here to raise our pH

You want to use a quality starter fertilizer to help germinate the seeds.

I would wait a week to apply fertilizer after putting down lime.
I am not aware if gypsum depletes nigtrogen as lime does. Any-body?
Use a broadcast spreader
The Scott's stuff you get at the H.D. is pretty good program.
Only use quality slow release fertilizers and grade 1 lawn seed

Fertilize three or four times this year. Be sure to do a late fall/winter fertilizer too as this will help the roots for next season.
Test the soil again later in the year.
Cut the lawn at 2 to 2.5 inches and mulch if you can.

Use a sharp blade

Water deep, but irregularly. You could put out a tuna fish can and time how long it takes to fill it with the sprinkler. Then water twice a week for that duration
When it's full

O.K. now every-body else...

224 posts aren't enough?

I know how to cut grass but putting down fertilizer really isn't part of what I do for people. I just cut a few yards here and there.

In my own yard I've always had problems getting the grass to grow. I've put down grass seed this year after killing the yard last year. I'd like for my work to pay off.

THIESSENS TLC
04-22-2011, 12:35 AM
so feed it!

Dr.NewEarth
04-22-2011, 01:36 AM
224 posts aren't enough?

I know how to cut grass but putting down fertilizer really isn't part of what I do for people. I just cut a few yards here and there.

In my own yard I've always had problems getting the grass to grow. I've put down grass seed this year after killing the yard last year. I'd like for my work to pay off.

Friend, I wasn't trying to disrespect you. I only wish to help.

Please pardon me if I came across as sarcastic or worse.

I hope your lawn grows thick and lush this year.

Smallaxe
04-22-2011, 06:57 AM
I wouldn't place a lot of stock in your home testing kit, though maybe its accurate. High pH is an issue with northern Ill and Utah, from what I understand.

It is high enough in those places, to tie up nutrients. Sometimes people just dump fert on it and it seems to help, scapers learn to understand the soils in their area, which usually tells you all you need to know about grass.

It's been a cold spring here, and it sounds like you just seeded this spring. The grass will be putting down roots for quite a while after germination so will not grow tops very much until it has enough root to do so... Patience with tiny seeds is generally best... :)