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View Full Version : Methods to deal with dollarweed


marshdawg
04-24-2011, 02:43 PM
I have been using celsius with a sticker at the recommended rates. I am seeing some yellowing and curling, yet some seem to be fine. They are very thick in two properties I have and I hit them about 3 weeks ago. I know they are very tough to get rid of. Should I add some quicksilver in? I would like to hear some success stories and recommendations from you guys. What works for you???? Thanks

Ric
04-24-2011, 02:54 PM
I have been using celsius with a sticker at the recommended rates. I am seeing some yellowing and curling, yet some seem to be fine. They are very thick in two properties I have and I hit them about 3 weeks ago. I know they are very tough to get rid of. Should I add some quicksilver in? I would like to hear some success stories and recommendations from you guys. What works for you???? Thanks

Marshdawg

Sounds like a plan.

fl-landscapes
04-24-2011, 07:36 PM
back off the irrigation

Plantculture
04-24-2011, 10:27 PM
+1 Back off irrigation and Certainty herbicide

Florida Gardener
04-24-2011, 10:33 PM
Yup, too much water....not sure what my spray company uses but they smoke dollarweed within a couple of days....
Posted via Mobile Device

Ric
04-24-2011, 10:58 PM
Yup, too much water....not sure what my spray company uses but they smoke dollarweed within a couple of days....
Posted via Mobile Device

Yo

While it takes a lot of water to establish Dollar weed, Once established Dollar weed will still grow without excessive water. BTW there is no pre emerge that works on Dollar Weed to my knowledge. However it seems to me that just about any Herbicide will kill dollar weed.

Florida Gardener
04-24-2011, 11:09 PM
Yo

While it takes a lot of water to establish Dollar weed, Once established Dollar weed will still grow without excessive water. BTW there is no pre emerge that works on Dollar Weed to my knowledge. However it seems to me that just about any Herbicide will kill dollar weed.

Yup, I noticed that too. What puzzles me is why some properties will get dollarweed vs others that get torpedo....

Ric
04-24-2011, 11:30 PM
Yup, I noticed that too. What puzzles me is why some properties will get dollarweed vs others that get torpedo....


Diamond

Control of Torpedo Grass in St Augustine is an other Ric Trick just like Bermuda Control in St Augustine. BTW two totally different Herbicide mixes.

Florida Gardener
04-24-2011, 11:33 PM
Trust me Ric I wasn't asking for your potion as I know your taking it to the grave, just curious why some yards get one vs other in an overwatered or a standing water situation...
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Ric
04-24-2011, 11:58 PM
Trust me Ric I wasn't asking for your potion as I know your taking it to the grave, just curious why some yards get one vs other in an overwatered or a standing water situation...
Posted via Mobile Device

Diamond

I am not sure either. Torpedo Grass is a real problem in Aquatic work and can be found around all ponds. However I have also seen Torpedo Grass survive nicely in Dry areas. It can take over a St Augustine yard and looks very much like St A. However it is so fibrous it will not Mulch and clumps on the yard. Many years ago when I had a Bagging mowers, Torpedo Grass looked great when cut.

ProHortM
04-25-2011, 10:30 AM
This time of year - hot and dry - is the perfect time to reduce the water on the turf. Cut it way back. Only water as needed. Dollarweed is an aquatic weed. It can't survive without moist soil.

Ric
04-25-2011, 10:49 AM
This time of year - hot and dry - is the perfect time to reduce the water on the turf. Cut it way back. Only water as needed. Dollarweed is an aquatic weed. It can't survive without moist soil.

ProHort

I guess you didn't read my post just above the misinformation you posted. Yes it is hot and dry this time of year in Florida and all the more reason NOT TO CUT BACK ON WATER. You are not going to control Dollar Weed by cutting back on water. What you are going to do is stunt your St Augustine or desirable turf making it more susceptible to weed infestation.

I realize you are in the Heart of Granola country with Ann Madison and all her Fruits and Nuts Etc. But save the tree hugging for your Master Gardeners Class.

ProHortM
04-25-2011, 11:02 AM
Ric, I'm not talking about cutting the water back so much that it affects the St Aug, just the dollarweed. The St Aug can survive - and thrive with less water, the dollarweed cannot - again it's an aquatic weed.

Also I'm not against chemicals (I'm a PCO) except when they're not needed. BTW - I've been in horticulture for 25 years and owned a l'scape maint co for 12. I'm a commercial hort agent, we have others who deal with the MGs.

Ric
04-25-2011, 11:16 AM
Ric, I'm not talking about cutting the water back so much that it affects the St Aug, just the dollarweed. The St Aug can survive - and thrive with less water, the dollarweed cannot - again it's an aquatic weed.

Also I'm not against chemicals (I'm a PCO) except when they're not needed. BTW - I've been in horticulture for 25 years and owned a l'scape maint co for 12. I'm a commercial hort agent, we have others who deal with the MGs.

Mr Palmer

I am well aware of who you are and which Counties you have been a County extension agent of as a State Wage Slave. However we who actually have to work for a living know that come the 2nd week of June until the 3rd week of Sept the Rainy Season will exacerbate a full out break of the dollar weed. Here is where a Good Atrazine based Weed & FEED works best on Dollar weed as both a Pre and Post Emerge. Of course there are other methods also but the Weed & Feed I found to give total control of Dollar because of the Slow release during an active growth cycle. Of course Ann Madison's yard isn't going to be weed free.

ProHortM
04-25-2011, 11:48 AM
So why allow the dollarweed to thrive in dry conditions? Can you use chemicals? Yes. In fact here's a link to a UF pub on dollarweed chemicals. http://bit.ly/i91WST

Here's another link to some research that says if you simply cut the irrigation down to once a week, your dollarweed problem will be seriously reduced. http://bit.ly/hkv6h6
Check out the pink graph in the lower left.

So why spend money on chemicals if you don't have to?
Plus it's getting pretty hot to use Atrazine.

Florida Gardener
04-25-2011, 12:01 PM
Ric, I'm not talking about cutting the water back so much that it affects the St Aug, just the dollarweed. The St Aug can survive - and thrive with less water, the dollarweed cannot - again it's an aquatic weed.

Also I'm not against chemicals (I'm a PCO) except when they're not needed. BTW - I've been in horticulture for 25 years and owned a l'scape maint co for 12. I'm a commercial hort agent, we have others who deal with the MGs.

Have to disagree. We have had no rain here for 3 weeks and it has been dry and hot... The St Aug is surviving but def not thriving. On a semi weedy yard all you will get is more infestation....
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ProHortM
04-25-2011, 12:17 PM
Have to disagree. We have had no rain here for 3 weeks and it has been dry and hot... The St Aug is surviving but def not thriving. On a semi weedy yard all you will get is more infestation....
Posted via Mobile Device

You're entitled to your opinion.
The science (see the bottom link above) and my experience say St Aug can do well on once-a-week irrig, unless the irrig system is messed up.

Ric
04-25-2011, 02:28 PM
So why allow the dollarweed to thrive in dry conditions? Can you use chemicals? Yes. In fact here's a link to a UF pub on dollarweed chemicals. http://bit.ly/i91WST

Here's another link to some research that says if you simply cut the irrigation down to once a week, your dollarweed problem will be seriously reduced. http://bit.ly/hkv6h6
Check out the pink graph in the lower left.

So why spend money on chemicals if you don't have to?
Plus it's getting pretty hot to use Atrazine.

Dave

Steve Brown (and I am sure you know him) once told me to spray Di hydrogen Monoxide on a customers plants and charge them for the application. The reason was they had a problem that the plant would naturally grow out of. But to keep the customer happy I had to do something. My point is the PhDs at U of F have perfect control over their experiments unlike Real life where we have to deal with customers who think they know more than we do.

Sorry but field experience and controlled university studies have very little in common.

BTW There are Atrazines that have no heat restrictions. UHS was the first to sell Atrazine without a heat restriction maybe 15 years ago. My suggestion of Weed & Feed has no heat restrictions.


OH BTW. Welcome to Lawnsite I am sure your input will be very valuable. I won't give you a hard time every time you post. Only when it is misinformation.

gregory
04-25-2011, 04:29 PM
wouldnt soil conditions have alot to do with dollar weed?

the reason i say this i have 4 zones in my yard that are the same with the same nozzles and the same number of heads with the same number of heads that are 1/2 rds or what have you and one zone always has a problem with dollar weed the only thing i can come up with is the soil in that one zone...

Florida Gardener
04-25-2011, 05:05 PM
Gregory I believe that the soil can also play a big factor as I have seen yards that were adequately watered but still had dollarweed....that is why I said overwatering or standing water....
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Ric
04-25-2011, 07:44 PM
wouldnt soil conditions have alot to do with dollar weed?

the reason i say this i have 4 zones in my yard that are the same with the same nozzles and the same number of heads with the same number of heads that are 1/2 rds or what have you and one zone always has a problem with dollar weed the only thing i can come up with is the soil in that one zone...

Gregory

HELLO!! Soil is a major player in pollution of our water ways. It is also the reason some yards are still in drought stress after 3 inches of irrigation.

The problem comes from the Builder who uses Plastic pipes behind the walls and Gold Faucets in front of the walls. FINAL FILL & GRADE is the cheapest Marl at about 4 dollars a yard on a half a million dollar home. Add in a $ 1100 irrigation city water hook up and you have nothing but a problem. This soil has no CEC or Field Capicity and every thing either runs off or leaches into our water supply. Of course because we are so low all new home construction must have fill brought in to rise the building above hurricane flood level.

What can and should be done???? First new building codes for future construction that requires better top soil that has CEC and Hydraulic conductivity so the fertilizer doesn't infiltrate into our water table or waterways. Next and a much harder sell is a educational campaign selling the idea of Top Dressing existing Yards with good SOM soil Organic matter that has both Chemical and water Holding power. Truth is with a good soil you don't need to over apply Fertilizer or irrigation. There is nothing wrong with organic fertilizer except the uneducated orgasmic granola nuts who refuse to move into the 21th century and use a Bridge program of both organic and synthetic products or the best of both worlds.

gregory
04-25-2011, 08:57 PM
ric,

the area i am talking about is in my side yard not close to my house. which was natural ground til i cleared it....

Ric
04-25-2011, 09:23 PM
ric,

the area i am talking about is in my side yard not close to my house. which was natural ground til i cleared it....

Karl

Soil can vary inch by inch let a lone different zones in your yard. You are far enough inland that you should be in the Green belt. Why one area is better than the other is anyone's guess but it does happen in nature. In think I got rid of your Bermuda grass selectively in your St Augustine easier than I can get rid of Dollar weed if the soil isn't right. I gave my chemical recommendation above for Dollar Weed control. BTW MSME does a pretty good job long term on dollar weed also.

Landscape Poet
04-25-2011, 10:06 PM
ric,

the area i am talking about is in my side yard not close to my house. which was natural ground til i cleared it....

Gregory - If I am understanding what you are saying correctly, you are saying that the area in which you are experiencing the dollar weed is a area which was "natural FL" prior to you clearing.

If that is the case, my guess would if you did not disrupt the soil in that area too much during clearing, you OM% is much higher in that areas soil. The higher OM% gives your soil a much higher retention rate of water, chemicals etc etc.

If I am correct about you not disrupting the soils top soil and it having a much higher OM%, then maybe switching the one nozzle in that area to a mp rotator nozzle should allow you to cut back the amount of water you want to deliver to the area that one head appears to be effecting without cutting back watering on the other heads if they are on the same zone. Just a suggestion if what I am following from your statements is correct, and possibly a quick and cheap fix.

Here is a link to a copy of Rainbirds type nozzles, the MP are Hunter.

http://www.rainbird.com/homeowner/products/sprays/Rotarynozzles.htm

bugsNbows
04-26-2011, 09:49 AM
This time of year - hot and dry - is the perfect time to reduce the water on the turf. Cut it way back. Only water as needed. Dollarweed is an aquatic weed. It can't survive without moist soil.

Wow, that's the first time I've heard that philosophy in 35+ years. I do agree to only water as needed, but most customers I've ever dealt with won't tolerate their lawn looking like crap for the above reasons. Additionally, I've found that once dollarweed is established it can READILY withstand droughty conditions, and can rebound nicely from most control efforts. In short, I've found dollarweed to be easy to kill, hard to control. YMMV.

Ric
04-26-2011, 10:38 AM
Wow, that's the first time I've heard that philosophy in 35+ years. I do agree to only water as needed, but most customers I've ever dealt with won't tolerate their lawn looking like crap for the above reasons. Additionally, I've found that once dollarweed is established it can READILY withstand droughty conditions, and can rebound nicely from most control efforts. In short, I've found dollarweed to be easy to kill, hard to control. YMMV.

Bugs

I believe we are on the same page and posted similar facts. But we have to cut ProHortM some slack. As a State of Florida Ifas extension agent it is his job to promote Tree Hugging. While Ifas has a lot of really great information, we must take that information with a grain of salt. I heard some real horror story about Recommendation from Universities. One such story was a U of F PhD who suggested Mixing Dursban with bird feed to control Wild Geese. The Golf Course followed his directions and was finded big time. Most PhDs only know about the project they are currently working on. Any recommendation from ANY ONE should be researched before put into practice.

Just a side comment: I love going to large Seminars. One Reason is I normally learn more from the Field experienced guy sitting next to me than the instructor. When I Taught I always suggested my students should Network with those around them for the same reason.

bugsNbows
04-26-2011, 03:56 PM
Bugs

I believe we are on the same page and posted similar facts. But we have to cut ProHortM some slack. As a State of Florida Ifas extension agent it is his job to promote Tree Hugging. While Ifas has a lot of really great information, we must take that information with a grain of salt. I heard some real horror story about Recommendation from Universities. One such story was a U of F PhD who suggested Mixing Dursban with bird feed to control Wild Geese. The Golf Course followed his directions and was finded big time. Most PhDs only know about the project they are currently working on. Any recommendation from ANY ONE should be researched before put into practice.

Just a side comment: I love going to large Seminars. One Reason is I normally learn more from the Field experienced guy sitting next to me than the instructor. When I Taught I always suggested my students should Network with those around them for the same reason.

Been there, done that. I was an IFAS Extension Agent in Charlotte County way back in the late 70's (pre-grad school). Field earned knowledge is essential...we NEVER stop learning.

gregory
04-26-2011, 05:52 PM
i agree with what your saying ric, b/c the side yard i was refering to will get dry spots in it then that night the sprinklers will kick on so to me the yard is not getting to much water.....

Ric
04-26-2011, 10:37 PM
Been there, done that. I was an IFAS Extension Agent in Charlotte County way back in the late 70's (pre-grad school). Field earned knowledge is essential...we NEVER stop learning.

Ric

I hope we didn't run Dave off, Lawnsite and the Florida forum can use all the educated advice it can get. I do enjoy Dave Palmer's Newsletters and have posted some of his information here on Lawnsite. The Florida Fertilizer House Bill thread I started was straight from Dave Palmer's news letter as was the DOT warning about stopping Pesticide trucks.

BTW Tell Greg to post more. We can use his input also.

Ric
04-26-2011, 10:41 PM
i agree with what your saying ric, b/c the side yard i was refering to will get dry spots in it then that night the sprinklers will kick on so to me the yard is not getting to much water.....

Karl

I don't know what to tell you other than top dressing those areas that are always dry. Humus Peat lasts a number of years but is best when applied on a yearly bases. Cost isn't a factor but breaking the bale up into spreadable material can be a Pain.

fobaum
04-27-2011, 09:16 AM
I use mansion+quick silver for dollar weed w/ good results. just my 2cents.

Ric
04-27-2011, 10:55 AM
I use mansion+quick silver for dollar weed w/ good results. just my 2cents.

Fobaum

Yep Masion is MSME and does a nice longer term control on Dollar weed. Quicksilver is quick and a great product also.

Ric
04-27-2011, 03:58 PM
Been there, done that. I was an IFAS Extension Agent in Charlotte County way back in the late 70's (pre-grad school). Field earned knowledge is essential...we NEVER stop learning.

Rick

You are going to have to be RicK G. so there is not any confusion.

I have always felt it takes 3 years to have a basic knowledge of Fert & Squirt and 3 life times to be an Expert.

Or as I prefer to say it

I started as an expert and hope one day to know nothing.

the_bug_guy
05-10-2011, 07:21 PM
I have been using celsius with a sticker at the recommended rates. I am seeing some yellowing and curling, yet some seem to be fine. They are very thick in two properties I have and I hit them about 3 weeks ago. I know they are very tough to get rid of. Should I add some quicksilver in? I would like to hear some success stories and recommendations from you guys. What works for you???? Thanks

i use quick silver and celsius with great results. my 6 gallon tank does 24 thousand sq feet. i use 2 oz's of of celsius and 1/2 oz quick silver yellow in 24 hours dead in 5 days st augustine grass shows no fido. (u do the math for your back back)

Buck_wheat
05-12-2011, 11:29 AM
Less water (SB no problem in FL since we are in dought conditions with water restrictions) solution of blade & quicksiver cleans em up pretty good.

Treat Broadleaf St. Augustine

4 gln. Backpack @ 4,000 sqf

Add 2 glns water to tank - ph 6 to 7 (range 5-8)

1: .05 oz. Blade

agitate

2: .136 fld oz (or 4 ml) QuickSilver

agitate

Fill tank

Add non-ionic surfactant

agitate

Apply within 8 hours

watch your temperatures... way above 80 could be a problem - If way above 80, apply celsius and be prepared to wait a couple of weeks.