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View Full Version : how to restand a fallen tree.


G. Ramey
04-26-2011, 07:14 PM
I just picked up a new account yesterday. unfortunatly it rained about the time I pulled up to the yard, so I didn't get to cut it. I walked around and got a good look at everything. There was a small willow tree that had fell over in the soft ground. It looked to be a container tree that someone had set out, probably a year or two ago. It's about 12-15 foot tall and has been down for a while, but is perfectly healthy and green. The homeowner wants me to try and save the tree. If I stand it back up what is the best way to keep it standing. I am afraid a rope will damage the tree over time. Is there a better way to secure it? Thanks.

cuttin-to-the-Max
04-26-2011, 07:21 PM
how about a rope with a rubber sleeve on it pulling it into the upright position?
the just tie it to a wood/metal stake

mybowtie
04-26-2011, 07:23 PM
I run the rope thru a 16" lenght of old garden hose.

TuffWork
04-26-2011, 07:43 PM
hybrid of these ideas: Wire coming from stake into short piece of hose that goes around tree.

I would also surround it with a layer of top soil or mulch

or just check out this: http://video.about.com/landscaping/staking-trees.--8h.htm

Dr.NewEarth
04-26-2011, 11:48 PM
International Society of Arboriculture Google "ISA" and look for tree staking

also, search Dr. Alex Shigo for proper pruning practices

Our landscape standard suggests that a deciduous tree have two stakes,
with one on each side

A coniferous usually gets three stakes.

We use this heavy duty woven stuff.

The hose bit with a piece of rope works well
Don't use wire. If it isn't removed on time, it will girdle the tree.

Stakes should not be used for longer than two years.
You want the tree to develop roots and good trunk taper,
so that it doesn't have to rely on the stakes.

Watch that the ropes don't damage the bark.

When you replant throw a few handfuls of bonemeal around the roots
and kneed the soil between the roots, like you were making bread dough.

You don't want any air pockets.

Usually we water when the hole is half back filled and then put the rest of the soil in.
Soil should only be level with the top of the root ball and no higher.

Rockwell Landscaping
04-26-2011, 11:55 PM
If it's been down for 2 plus years I'd say it would be hard to just prop it up and stake it. The root system is already holding it at it's current angle. Best way would be to dig around the root ball and basically re-plant it. Stake it to keep from happening again but make sure to leave a little wiggle room on the guyline to help promote root growth.

topsites
04-26-2011, 11:59 PM
The three biggest issues are you need to find how you can get the leverage going
to stand it up straight first, without that you're wasting your time.

Don't PULL on it with that ZTR!!!
If the rope should break or a chain would snap, the result could kill or maim.
I suppose you could try pushing it with the Z but I don't think it would do much.
And I really think using the truck is out of the question as well, it would be extremely dangerous.

If the tree is almost horizontal you can forget pulling it straight, at least not with no rope or chains.
You'll need to either lift it vertically from above, or get up under it so you'll probably need
something like a tractor with a bucket to get up underneath it.
Then, once you get it straight, hold it there while you tie it down second.

And three...
You need something that will hold 5-10 thousand pounds test, like tie-down straps work real good,
especially since you can tie and then adjust, use reinforcement bars (rebars) cut to two feet,
nail these a foot and a half deep in the ground, then tie the straps to one, around the tree... And!!!
Protect the tree with some cloth, then run the strap flat around it and back to another piece of rebar.
Adjusting the straps will help pull it some, too.

Keep doing that, I'd say somewhere between 3-6 tie-down straps ALL around (don't let it fall the other way either)
Get some half-decent ones, like an inch or so wide and make sure they are like a bright orange color
so they'll point to the rebar as you won't be able to see the steel pieces sticking out of the ground later.

These tie-downs will have to be left in place at least two full years, maybe longer.

Snyder's Lawn Inc
04-27-2011, 12:15 AM
The three biggest issues are you need to find how you can get the leverage going
to stand it up straight first, without that you're wasting your time.

Don't PULL on it with that ZTR!!!
If the rope should break or a chain would snap, the result could kill or maim.
I suppose you could try pushing it with the Z but I don't think it would do much.
And I really think using the truck is out of the question as well, it would be extremely dangerous.

If the tree is almost horizontal you can forget pulling it straight, at least not with no rope or chains.
You'll need to either lift it vertically from above, or get up under it so you'll probably need
something like a tractor with a bucket to get up underneath it.
Then, once you get it straight, hold it there while you tie it down second.

And three...
You need something that will hold 5-10 thousand pounds test, like tie-down straps work real good,
especially since you can tie and then adjust, use reinforcement bars (rebars) cut to two feet,
nail these a foot and a half deep in the ground, then tie the straps to one, around the tree... And!!!
Protect the tree with some cloth, then run the strap flat around it and back to another piece of rebar.
Adjusting the straps will help pull it some, too.

Keep doing that, I'd say somewhere between 3-6 tie-down straps ALL around (don't let it fall the other way either)
Get some half-decent ones, like an inch or so wide and make sure they are like a bright orange color
so they'll point to the rebar as you won't be able to see the steel pieces sticking out of the ground later.

These tie-downs will have to be left in place at least two full years, maybe longer.

Re bar For steaks That wont hold much
Drive you a fence post pull off that or a Tree anchor
Be best dig around tree and just re plant it anchor with a fence post or Tree anchor

Smallaxe
04-27-2011, 04:36 AM
Dig the rootball around on all sides and rock it into the hole... Sounds like a poorly planted B&B so remove the burlap and plant it properly. soak it down well at the proper height and it may not even need staking...

I seldom stake, but 12-15 tall with a ball and socket rootball you may have too... 3 sides is always best and plan to remove when the leaves come off in the fall... Willow should send out roots quickly if planted correctly...

topsites
04-27-2011, 06:46 AM
Re bar For steaks That wont hold much
Drive you a fence post pull off that or a Tree anchor
Be best dig around tree and just re plant it anchor with a fence post or Tree anchor

It's not that I've never done this, wasn't no small sapling in my case either and rebar is exactly what was used,
you can buy the stuff in various sizes so you probably need something a little more than the thinnest they sell you and
maybe you got to knock it two feet down, rebar sells in 3/8, 1/2" and so on, that's in addition to different lengths and I can
guarantee that stuff won't budge a 1/4"! so who cares, you Mister has done this before it WILL hold and either way you still
have to get the tree straight first.

ALC-GregH
04-27-2011, 07:25 AM
The three biggest issues are you need to find how you can get the leverage going
to stand it up straight first, without that you're wasting your time.

Don't PULL on it with that ZTR!!!
If the rope should break or a chain would snap, the result could kill or maim.
I suppose you could try pushing it with the Z but I don't think it would do much.
And I really think using the truck is out of the question as well, it would be extremely dangerous.

If the tree is almost horizontal you can forget pulling it straight, at least not with no rope or chains.
You'll need to either lift it vertically from above, or get up under it so you'll probably need
something like a tractor with a bucket to get up underneath it.
Then, once you get it straight, hold it there while you tie it down second.

And three...
You need something that will hold 5-10 thousand pounds test, like tie-down straps work real good,
especially since you can tie and then adjust, use reinforcement bars (rebars) cut to two feet,
nail these a foot and a half deep in the ground, then tie the straps to one, around the tree... And!!!
Protect the tree with some cloth, then run the strap flat around it and back to another piece of rebar.
Adjusting the straps will help pull it some, too.

Keep doing that, I'd say somewhere between 3-6 tie-down straps ALL around (don't let it fall the other way either)
Get some half-decent ones, like an inch or so wide and make sure they are like a bright orange color
so they'll point to the rebar as you won't be able to see the steel pieces sticking out of the ground later.

These tie-downs will have to be left in place at least two full years, maybe longer.

Some poor advice right there.

ashgrove landscaping
04-27-2011, 10:17 AM
do what ever is easiest. You will NOT hurt or kill a willow tree. Cut it in half and plant both halves if you want to. They re basically a giant water sucking weed.

jherety
04-27-2011, 11:53 AM
If the tree simply fell over due to soggy ground I'd say there's a good chance that righting the tree will hold once the ground hardens up. It has been my experience that if they fall over due to high wind that the roots on that side of the tree will snap. I've never been successful in righting a tree where the roots had snapped. Of course that's just my experience, YMMV. Best of luck because I really hate cutting down an otherwise healthy tree.

Wes
Posted via Mobile Device

KINGMADE
04-27-2011, 06:24 PM
12 to 15 feet? pick it up with your hands.

G. Ramey
04-27-2011, 07:31 PM
I stood the tree up and put a loop of wide webbing around it and ran the webbing about four foot to a metal fence post I put in the ground. It stood back up easily and doesn't have a lot of pressure on the webbing. I guess we will see if it lives. Thanks for the help.