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Ed Donahue
06-01-2011, 07:35 PM
My 2008 227 is great, except when hitting a "bump" that shuts down the engine. All saftey swithes work, and the mystery is that the engine turns over, but does not start. Waiting an hour or so, the engine starts. This has mistified the dealer as well............

Grass Shark
06-03-2011, 01:24 AM
My 2008 227 is great, except when hitting a "bump" that shuts down the engine. All saftey swithes work, and the mystery is that the engine turns over, but does not start. Waiting an hour or so, the engine starts. This has mistified the dealer as well............

you sure you don't have a bad mercury switch?

Ed Donahue
06-04-2011, 01:09 PM
Thanks, possible good solution to mystery. I wall thinking that one of the saftey switches cut out engine and flooded it. Did pull one plug, looked possible, cleaned & replaced--still did not start. The mercury switch may be it , will check it out. Thank you.

A-1 LAWN
06-04-2011, 02:32 PM
coil.if it starts and runs good.suddenly dies after hot,then starts when cool,coil. good luck having a kubota dealer working on it!!

cut level
06-04-2011, 04:36 PM
A-1 I never have a problem with Kubota dealers
Posted via Mobile Device

A-1 LAWN
06-04-2011, 05:01 PM
good to hear you have had good luck! my experience with kubota corp and my local dealer was a bunch of ***** I have owned many kubotas,after my last experience never again!!

Ed Donahue
06-05-2011, 12:27 AM
Almost Zero luck out here on west coast with Kubota dealer answering questions, actually zero for anwers on the "mistery". note much help at all, depend on groups like this on web to really understand Kubota problems.

Ed Donahue
06-05-2011, 12:30 AM
Not sure previous response got through. But zero luck with Kubota dealers out here; depend on web site like this for help from those who may care.

topsites
06-05-2011, 01:26 AM
Assuming you really did make sure that none of the safety switches are at fault, I would second the coil diagnosis.

There exists a way to check a coil with an ohm meter, the testing procedure is available
online but it's not for everybody, some people get it, some don't (for example I don't).
Unfortunately without a specific coil test, the only way to find out for sure is to replace it with a known working one.

Here's a link to an ohm coil bench test but of course:
*You'll need the resistance specifications for your specific coil in order to perform this test.
Consult your service manual for this information.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm

Ed Donahue
06-06-2011, 10:35 AM
Thanks for advice. Will check coil and double check on saftey switches. Will post if the "mystery" is solved. Not sure though if this is it as the unit will only stop when "bottoming out" so to speak as rough terrain at higher speeds does not affect it.

cpellis
06-06-2011, 11:00 AM
I have a 2009 ZG327. Same basic engine. I had a problem with it dying for no reason. I found that the power wire that connected to the electric fuel pump had built up a greenish colored layer of corrosion on it. Had to look close as it was just a thin layer that stopped the 12 volts. It was not a bunch of junk like on a battery terminal. I cleaned it off with sand paper, and it worked fine. After a few weeks it did it again. I cleaned it and covered the connection with dielectric grease, like used on turn signal bulbs. It has been about a year, and no problem.

A-1 LAWN
06-06-2011, 01:51 PM
Thanks for advice. Will check coil and double check on saftey switches. Will post if the "mystery" is solved. Not sure though if this is it as the unit will only stop when "bottoming out" so to speak as rough terrain at higher speeds does not affect it.

if the mower is cutting out or missing a few hits on the ignition,only when bottoming out it is just the carb,I think all of them do that if you hit some bad bumps.

Ed Donahue
06-06-2011, 02:49 PM
Problem is that it stops completly after a backfire, and does not start until setting for about 30 minutes, in leiu of just missing or stalling.

A-1 LAWN
06-06-2011, 05:46 PM
coil or loose wire at coil or ignition switch

Ed Donahue
06-07-2011, 03:07 PM
Will check and post results. Thanks

Ed Donahue
06-09-2011, 07:46 PM
Kubota area rep just called. Thought vapor lock or fouled vent on gas cap. Suggested insulating fuel line if passes too close to muffler. Will add this to check out list and post next week.

Ed Donahue
06-17-2011, 12:29 PM
So far mystery may have been solved, but not sure just yet. Vent on fuel tank cap appeared plugged. Blew out with compressed air. No problems so far, but only about 3 hours running time. Will post later if this is what it was.
Nothing of value from Kubota tech's .

Ridin' Green
06-17-2011, 02:41 PM
Cleaning the vent may help, but if it backfires then won't start for a while, you need to seriously look into the electrical works. I have never seen a plugged vent cause an engine to backfire. They normally either won't run at all, or start missing. The backfire is the main clue. I would also guess the coil may be bad, and would start there, but check the voltage regulator and/or condensor as well.

Ed Donahue
06-17-2011, 02:51 PM
Agree with you. I think it is electrical. The gas cap deal came from a Kubota rep saying that a slight interuption in fuel flow ( caused vacuum in unvented tank) would lean out engine, vaporlocking, and causing backfire. Coil seems most appropriate solution.

A-1 LAWN
06-17-2011, 03:40 PM
pay attention to the engine!! if you listen close to the sound when it backfires it will spell out the trouble!
crisp sharp back fire= electrical
rolling,rumble.backfire= carb or fuel problems
the cap?? vapor lock is a locked! proplem usually,once it vapor locks,you have to release pressure,from removing gas cap or lines.if you havent done this to make it restart, more than likely you still have a problem.

Ed Donahue
06-17-2011, 07:22 PM
Thanks all. Definetly electical, the fuel cap vent deal is not it.

Happens when on a load, probably more engine heat causing problem with coil, condenser or other electrical connections.

A-1 LAWN
06-17-2011, 07:59 PM
check connectors at coil,clean if dirty.I stil think its the coil!!

Ed Donahue
06-17-2011, 08:02 PM
Will do, just happened again. Cooled off, started. Thanks!

Hawken Cougar
06-17-2011, 11:48 PM
An intake valve is not seating properly after the engine heats up.

Have you checked the valve lash on this machine?

Ed Donahue
06-18-2011, 01:27 PM
Not checked valve lash. Machine does not stop when undernormal load it appears, but after into higher grass, mid rpm setting. Is there a overheating shut down switch? I am going to kick up rpm in higher grass and see what happens. ( noted book says to run at higher rpm if overheating). I doubt if this is the case though. I also checked some connections and it started, might be a connection, but this was conincidental to leaving machine cool down ( about 1/2 hour).

Still a mystery.

Ridin' Green
06-18-2011, 01:46 PM
Make sure the oil level is where it is supposed to be. Closer to the full mark without going over is better than closer to the add mark.

The engine relies on the intake fan to cool it down. Cutting tall or thick heavy grass can/will cause them to overheat if the rpm's aren't at full. You need that fan really spinning to keep the engine cool under those conditions.

You need to get away from the old school mentallity that cutting at half throttle saves fuel (if that's why you are doing it). It doesn't, and is easily proven. My dad was like that, and would run his JD tractor at 3/4 throttle to save gas. I finally proved it to him by running it at full throttle and cutting his property. We both cut the entire property, him his way, and me my way the next time, under near identical conditions. I used less fuel to do it than he did. 2.5 acres cut.

I repeated it several times, and he finally started throttling it all the way up, and did so until he died. Modern engines are more fuel efficient when run at full throttle. They are designed to be so, when used in conjunction implements like a mower or snowblower. The pulley size/diameters for the implement and the pto output are designed to be used with the engine at full rpm.

Ed Donahue
06-18-2011, 01:58 PM
Good advice. Will kick up rpm, check oil level, connections again, and report back. Again, appreciate the comments!

Ed Donahue
09-28-2011, 05:28 PM
Good advice. Will kick up rpm, check oil level, connections again, and report back. Again, appreciate the comments!

OK vapor lock was problem. Changed to new sharp blades and run at full rpm as suggested, thank you, and no problems.

kubotafan
09-28-2011, 10:50 PM
Kubota area rep just called. Thought vapor lock or fouled vent on gas cap. Suggested insulating fuel line if passes too close to muffler. Will add this to check out list and post next week.

OK vapor lock was problem. Changed to new sharp blades and run at full rpm as suggested, thank you, and no problems.

Kubota reps aren't always bad. I have always had good service with my dealer.