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View Full Version : Kawasaki 22HP FD661D Intermittent no spark


steve4mc
07-28-2011, 10:33 AM
I'm flustered with this one. It is on a Scag Turf Tiger and won't start. No spark. It started coming and going a while back. It would die or start to die and sometimes come right back. Right now there is no spark on either cylinder. It seems improbable that both coils went out together and come back together. I was probing around on it with a meter the other day and it came back and about knocked me on my keester. Started twice, then went away the next morning. I have replaced the ignitor, both plugs, ohmed out the pulser coils. When I ohm out the ignition coils, the secondary measures 18K ohms. My book says 15K ohm is the top of the range but the book I have also lists the wrong plug so I don't trust it fully. I have jumpered across the relay and that didn't help. I have looked extensively at the grounding and it looks ok. I have two new coils on order but I really doubt that is what the problem is since whatever it is comes and goes to both coils at the same time.

Any suggestions? I'm all ears. :confused:

CLS LLC
07-28-2011, 02:30 PM
What'd I'd recommend is disconnecting the grounding wire to the ignition coils (it should be the only wire going to the coils) then try to start the machine. Keep in mind though that if it starts the only way to turn it off will be to ground those wires. This will most likely work and in that case your key switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

steve4mc
07-28-2011, 05:15 PM
Nicholas:
There are two primary wires, a plus side and a minus side. It looks to me like they vary the minus side and leave the positive side at 12V. But if I can, I will try your suggestion.

steve4mc
08-02-2011, 05:05 PM
This one is still down for the count and as mysterious as ever. My coworker still maintains that it is one of the safety switches and that I should bypass all the interlocks. I hate doing that because I sometimes have students running the mower.

pugs
08-02-2011, 05:40 PM
Make sure you have 12 volts on the proper wire at the 2 coils and the igniter box. Most likely this 12 volt source travels through some safety switches before getting to the engine. For testing you could bypass them and run 12 from a jumper to the battery and see if you get constant spark.

If you do then trace the wire back through your safety switches and other switches to find where you lose the constant 12 volts.

steve4mc
08-04-2011, 12:15 PM
This may be solved. Based on my own questioning and Pugs suggestions, I went back to measuring voltages across the whole system. I found the power to ignitor which looked like it came through the relay (there is no relay schematic in the wiring diagrams, just a black box) was not getting through. The power was getting to the coils (even with the key off, which is wierd) but not the ignitor. I jumper power to the orange wire going to the ignitor and the mower started. I pulled jumper and it died. I head to Fayetteville to get a relay this afternoon.

THe part that was frustrating was that I had jumpered the relay before but not correctly. I had jumpered from the orange wire (ignitor power) to the yellow/white wire (coil power). But doing that assumed that all the relay did was connect the two wires. It actually ran power to both.

Thanks for the help to everybody and especially to Pugs.

(Pugs, your location reminds me of a song I heard growing up. "Just outside Chicago, there's a place called Illinois." I'm an ex Illini from the Land of Lincoln myself.)

chevfox
08-19-2012, 05:09 PM
does this relay part number happen to be 27034-2056? im having the same problem myself and was having a hard time finding what to look at. if it is all my problems will be solved