View Full Version : Goulds or Flint & Walling jet pump

09-09-2011, 04:11 PM
Looking to get a jet pump (thanks for the suggestion Wet Boots) and have narrowed done my choice to either a F&W or Goulds. Which manufacture has the better (more reliable) pump? Are they close? Not looking at comparing specs (GPM, PSI.. etc) just looking to see if they are in the same league as of quality. I do not have any experience with F&W. Here are the pumps:

F&W - CPJ15S
Goulds - HSJ15N


09-09-2011, 05:09 PM
I've only installed the single-stage jet pumps from Goulds, so I can't comment on the multistage ones. No doubt, even with a 10-15 foot lift, I could make the single-stage J15S work well on your site. There is one feature to the J+ series of jet pumps I use, that is extremely advantageous to have, is the use of a diaphragm inside the pump, that holds in water, which keeps the pump primed. I believe that priming diaphragm is still a Goulds exclusive.

Another reason to look again at the J15S single-stage pump, is that its output won't be liable to damage a poly mainline. And strictly from the penny-pinching viewpoint, the single-stage Goulds is NOT a deep-well convertible pump with a shallow-well ejector bolted to it. (which is also what that Flint & Walling is) For reasons I do not entirely understand, you pay more for a deep-well convertible pump, than you do for a shallow-well pump of the same horsepower, (despite the latter having more parts) and that's before you add on the cost of the bolt-on shallow-well ejector assembly.

AI Inc
09-09-2011, 05:14 PM
Like boots , Im a goulds man. far outsells all others in my area.

09-09-2011, 05:34 PM
Two other things I like about the JS+ series is that the same case is used on all sizes of that pump, and the case bolts are as large as any I've seen, which comes in handy when you need to remove the case for service. (smaller-diameter bolts that are stuck will break off easier than larger ones)

09-10-2011, 07:39 AM
Why not a Berkley sshm--2? F and W are semi bullet proof, but sometimes the mounting cracks after being winterized.

09-10-2011, 08:22 AM
That's the pump you named? The catalog pictures are different.

09-10-2011, 08:50 AM
sta rite or berkley around here.....

goulds are solid pumps, just not pushed by my local distributors

09-10-2011, 09:45 AM
Why not a Berkley sshm--2? F and W are semi bullet proof, but sometimes the mounting cracks after being winterized.

RLPSTEMS - Out by me its Goulds and a few dealers that sell F&W. I took a look at the Berkley specs that I think that is a lot of pump for what I'm looking for.

I rethought my original design of 30 gpm and adjusted to 18-20 gpm. I'll add 3 more zones and just have less heads per zone.

09-10-2011, 10:19 AM
You could actually get 20 gpm from the single-stage Goulds, if you feed Maxipaws, and run them at a lower pressure. You can swap nozzles around, and make use of the arm spring adjustment that provides reliable lower-pressure rotation.

I'm not saying to lock yourself into a plan that leaves you very little pressure leeway. Design for 20+ gpm, as far as pipe sizes go, but at first, make Maxipaw nozzle selections for a 13 gpm system. 13 gpm gives you plenty of water for an acre of the soil you have (Kiril may have an official descriptor for it) along with the pump outlet pressure you desire, but you will find that the heads can operate reliably at pressures at least 10 psi under what you are figuring on. Once you bump up the nozzle sizes, the outlet pressure will drop, and the flow goes up to, and maybe beyond, the 20 gpm mark.

09-10-2011, 01:19 PM
Thanks Boots, let me look at my plan again to see if that would work.

09-10-2011, 01:57 PM
By the way, the standard blue nozzle should get you close to the listed 35 feet at less than 30 psi (don't trust that pressure gauge reading all that much) - you don't have to use the breakup screw all that much, except for when you need to cut distance.

09-10-2011, 04:09 PM
Boots, with the jig I made up I was getting about 33' with the blue nozzle from my home. I cracked the screw just a hair just to get a little better water dispersion. 33' between the heads is what I using to design the system.

Mike Leary
09-10-2011, 04:17 PM
They STILL make those heads? :dizzy: (Not bad application, I admit).

09-10-2011, 04:23 PM
It's the part-circle operation that makes best use of the un-diffused performance, with the coverage in one direction of rotation reinforcing the coverage of the other direction. With the head-to-head spacing you will have, you are good either way.

09-10-2011, 04:35 PM
If your trees are prone to dropping twigs (some are, go figure) then you will want to look for any getting caught under the head covers. It's a strictly random happening, but I believe it can be responsible for the covers coming loose, when a heavy mower runs over the cover, and breaks a tab(s) that secures the cover.

09-10-2011, 04:46 PM
Boots, never thought of that. I do have 2 oaks in my front yard that drops some twigs when it get windy. I'll keep an eye on the once I install the system.